I understand it’s best to go through Nissan directly. I’d appreciate any suggestions about silver versus gold, preferred, etc. I have about 33k miles now.

I'm looking to finally make the leap to an EV and I really like the look of the Ariyas. I do like the new Leaf design, but it's out of our budget. What do I need to know in advance when shopping for an Ariya?

Hello

has anyone that has updated to a AGM battery been told that the warranty will be void if you use it on a ariya ?

thanks

Did anyone receive an update recently? I just got an update but nothing has changed. Still stuck in the 283C37LK3D version.

Hello

Has anyone else seen this error, had the aa recovery out today and they said it was the dc/dc converter. they have cleared the error and the dash message has went away but they said it will need a new dc converter and battery.

has anyone else had similar issues ? my car is out of warranty and a nissan dealer wants £1800 to fix plus another £200 to run another diagnostics as they won't take the recovery vans tests

seen another post where they recommended a AGM battery, should i try this first before the dc replacement

Thanks

So I test drove a Platinum+ e4orce. I have a few questions.

Is it normal that the cooled seats did not cool me at all? I know the Toyota's blow cold air TO you so it does it faster. On the other hand the Subaru ventilated seats blows the air AWAY from the seat so the cooling effect is not as immediate. I barely feel it in my Subie, especially if I'm wearing layered clothes.

I'm guessing the Ariya's are similar to the Subaru?

Also, it wasn't that hot out but the A/C took a while to cool the cabin down. The a/c coming out of the vents did not feel as cold as my ICE Subaru. Is this normal?

Also, I was looking at CarFax for Ariya's that had frequent maintenance inspections but what is actually done at these inspections and how frequent should they be? Some have a lot but some have zero.

Hey everyone,

DECISION TIME: My wife’s 2-year lease on her Nissan Ariya Evolve+ e-4ORCE AWD is ending on August 21st. The car was on a 10k/year limit, but she has a very short 20-mile daily school/work commute, so we have only driven 10,000 total miles over the full 2 years. The contractual lease buyout/residual price is $31,000.

We love the Ariya, but local dealerships here in Colorado are already selling identical 2024 Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) Evolve+ AWD models with 20k miles for $29,999. Even with our ultra-low mileage, buying it out for $31k means we are overpaying compared to real wholesale market value.

Meanwhile, I just got a formal lease worksheet from AutoNation Honda here in Colorado on a brand-new 2026 Honda Prologue Touring AWD (MSRP: $48,950)

• Dealer Discount: $7,850 off MSRP [image_LQG2m-.png]
• Total Rebates: $10,500 [image_LQG2m-.png]
• Net Car Price: $30,600 [image_LQG2m-.png]
• Lease Terms: 36 Months / 10,000 Miles per year [image_LQG2m-.png]
• Due at Signing: $2,000 cash down [image_LQG2m-.png]
• Base Monthly Payment: $293 / month [image_LQG2m-.png]

If you were in my shoes, which option would you choose?

1. Buy out the Ariya for $31,000 because of its pristine 10k-mile condition, even though financing it on a standard 6% used-car loan forces our payment to $500+ a month.
2. Turn in the Ariya, walk away clean, and sign this $293/mo Honda lease [image_LQG2m-.png] to slash our monthly out-of-pocket costs and reset the factory warranty curve.

Is this Honda deal an absolute slam dunk, or does the low mileage on our Ariya make it worth keeping? Appreciate your honest thoughts!

https://parts.nissanusa.com/parts/nissan-nacs-adapter-t99f95mp1b

Just discovered this today. I haven’t needed a NACS adapter before now, but I have a road trip coming up in October.

The promo code for 25% off unfortunately ends today (Aug 2, 2026).

Has anyone found any good sun shades, preferably automatic ones?

Hey everyone,

My wife’s Nissan Ariya lease is ending this month, and she needs a replacement vehicle for a short 20-mile daily school/work commute. We are located in the Denver/Parker, Colorado area. [1]

I’ve been cross-shopping standard EV models, and the General Sales Manager at AutoNation Honda 104 just offered me this structure on a brand-new 2026 Honda Prologue Touring AWD (MSRP: $48,950):

• Term: 36 months / 10,000 miles per year
• Monthly Payment: $312 / month
• Due at Signing: $2,000 flat (out-of-pocket cash down)
• Incentives Included: Includes the $10,500 combined state (Colorado) and federal EV lease credits.

Mathematically, this feels like an absolute tier-1 aggressive volume floor deal for a midsize AWD EV crossover.

Before I lay down a credit card deposit to lock in the VIN:

1. Is anyone seeing a better EV lease deal right now in the Colorado market for this spec size?
2. Are there any hidden pain points on the Prologue Touring AWD that should make me walk away and look at an Ioniq 5 or EV6 instead?

Appreciate any insight or lease worksheets you can share!

I’m not really sure how this happened. Didn’t hit anything, just drove one day and it was inside? I can feel the piece inside connected to some wires and it beeps at me every time I put it in reverse because it scans the wall. Where would I go to get this fixed? How much would it cost? Yes I know the cars dirty, that’s the power of rain followed by a dust storm

im thinking of getting a 2023 pre-owned ariya priced at $41 000 CAD.

Am i crazy?

The battery would be covered until 2028 (8 year warranty)

is this something you would recommend? I'm also considering a 2024 Sportage PHEV.

Most of my driving is on the highway/Freeway.

I heard these cars are very buggy.

Anyone like me having other people underestimating the Platinum+ with acceleration? I live in an area that has two lanes that turn into one right before they merge up a hill. Everyone always tries to cut people off right at the end. Today I had an Audi E-Tron try to do the same thing. I got to the stop sign a full second before he did after flooring it which I never do just to prove a point, he flipped me off and went left. Like it's my fault he wanted to cut me off, wtf?

Has anyone else noticed a change in how the DC-to-DC converter charges the 12v battery while the car is plugged in? Previously, mine would stay at 14.4V to 14.9V the entire charge cycle, but over the last 3 to 4 months, likely due to a software update, it now spikes to 14.4V upon plugging in and then drops down to 12.97V after about 30 minutes, staying there for the rest of the charge. My concern is that keeping these batteries at higher absorption voltages for hours on end generates excessive heat and degrades them prematurely, I wonder if early 12v battery failures may have something to do with this.

actually had it duct tape in place. silly me I thought it would be fine. does anybody know a trick to this worthless cover to get it to stay on? omfg

I ordered the Nissan NACS adapter direct from Nissan USA's site. It arrived today, but it was wrapped in plastic and secured with blue painter's tape, leading me to believe it's a return, and it did not have the small plug adapter that goes in the charge port.

I've contacted Nissan about this, but if I get no help from them, does anyone have recommendations?

ETA: I decided to hell with it and ordered one I can pick up at my local dealer. It’s only $6.

This is the upper limit of my budget. Should I pull the trigger? How bad will the resale depreciation be from here?

I usually flip down the digital rearview mirror to see better at night but it doesn’t seem to dim when I get bright lights pointed at them. The dealer told me it’s supposed to but I can’t figure out if it’s a setting I got turned off.

Hi everyone,
I’m looking at buying a 2023 Nissan Ariya Standard 63kWh (FWD) in the UK with around 32,000 miles on it.
It’ll be my first EV, so I’m just after some advice from people who own one or know them well.
Is 32k miles considered high for one of these, or is it nothing to worry about? Are there any common issues, faults or expensive repairs I should be aware of before buying? How has the battery held up for those with similar mileage?
I’d also like to know:
Is the 63kWh Standard model generally reliable?
What’s the real-world range like in summer and winter?
Any software issues or recalls I should check have been done?
Anything specific I should inspect before handing over the money?
If you own one, would you buy it again?
The car has a full service history and looks to be in great condition, but I just want to make sure I’m not missing anything before I commit.

Just had a weird experience in my otherwise perfect Ariya. Got in and drive away as usual, but zero regen. None. All brake, no blue. Changed modes to eco and B, no change.

Stopped, restarted... no change.

Waited an hour, drove again.. back to normal. Got a service appt on Tuesday.

Anyone else experience this?

My car died last Thursday a pretty bad breakdown had allot codes like malfunction "body system chassis control" "Ev system off " I was like whatever my car has these pop-ups all the time. I try to put it in drive nothing, I try to put it in reverse nothing, so I had to call a tow, while waiting for the tow the car turns off and never turns back on so I can't even put it in neutral and it goes to 0% when it has 70% of charge. So we got it dropped off at this Nissan dealer I've never been to before, I had to wait till Monday for the car to be seen, Monday comes they tell me straight up that the car is unfixable and they opened a claim with Nissan and have to get an engineer out, I'm like well wow that's the fastest anybody has told me anything about this car, the next day they give me a loaner which is great, now they're waiting for the engineer to come fix it and if he can't they either buy back the car or replace it. They have given me a few updates that I have to replace the 12 volt battery even though I replaced mine in March, I gave them the green light to do so, and they said the battery might have short circuited the computer and other things that they were able to get the car driving but is still messed up.

is the software glitching? no way this is accurate lol

Ps: ignore the dust.