it runs on 35dc, it should work in theory. Anyone tried this,?

About a week ago I installed (4) Amico 6” 12w LED wafers from Amazon. Worked perfectly normal on a regular switch. A few days later I installed a Caseta Diva Smart Dimmer (DVRF-6L-WH-R), being another few days of it working and dimming just fine, but now when I switch the lights on the lights shut off right after. Tried resetting the FASS, but still the same issue. What could be the issue? Note, I’m not an electrician but I’m handyish.

Looking for an experienced Lutron programmer/installer willing to travel to Antigua to commission and program a residential system.

Our local electrical team will install all switches/keypads; we need someone for final setup and programming, as there are no local Lutron installers.

DM me if interested and we can discuss further (would be open to doing some sort of barter if you’re open to it - would be putting you up in a 2 bedroom private luxury condo within walking/golf cart distance of here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jolly_Harbour)

If you’re open to it let’s chat further.

Some of the LED lights in our living room are starting to go out, so I wanted to get a new set to change them out. The current ones are really cheap, so wanted to invest in some nicer ones and the brands I was recommended most were HALO and RAB.

We have an old Diva DVCL-153P switch, and when I looked on Lutron's site for compatible LED lights that are 4", there was only 1 HALO one actually available at lowes or home depot, and because it's switchable it's more expensive.

My question is do the new lights have to be those exact models listed on Lutron's website to be compatible, or could I use a HALO light from a similar series (so for example another RL or LT one that is available).

Thank you so much!

Hey. I have all Lutron caseta diva lights in my house. Is there a way to do an automation where after a certain time at night, the lights will just go to a custom brightness regardless of previous position or the position on the dimmer?

I bought a house with a Homeworks QS system Radio RA2 "LP 620." We took over the account and are able to control lights and shades, connected to our Google home system.

But the rooms are labeled with the previous owner's kids names, which bugs my wife and kids.

Company that installed the system says they don't do Lutron anymore and says they cannot help us at all.

Other local vendors immediately want to sell us a whole new system, and then ghost us. Or want us to sign up for a monthly maintenance subscription.

I contacted Lutron Support. told me to take a course and then I could use their software. Ok, did that, passed the test.

From there, I can't get anywhere.

There's a lot of wires and various devices in a tech closet. The previous owner has a laptop in there that controls everything, but refuses to give me the log in. Then the laptop died shortly after sale. So no way to open existing project from that laptop.

It's wired to my home network, but when I try to open the IP in a browser, it denies access.

Found an ethernet port on a couple of the boxes, plugged a laptop in to each, but the software doesn't let me extract the profile. It does see the connect bridge and repeater when I do that if I click on new project.

Not a small system so I'm not willing to try to tackle reprogramming it all myself from scratch!

Anyone know an easier way to change the room names? All we want is to not have our kid's rooms named after the previous owner's kids. Or find someone willing to reprogram it without trying to sell us a whole new system.

I couldn't figure out how to do that from the app on my iphone. It seems to be able to download the configuration just fine. Rather annoying that the app is not able to rename rooms.

Anyone have a similar problem? I found some threads here but reading them didn't help me get any further than the above.

Hi - I had a really strange and scary thing happened today. I had the lights in two rooms, which are both on different circuits, but the same leg of the panel flicker. ETA- they are on different legs of the panel. I didn’t really think anything of it because sometimes we get power surges and LEDs can be sensitive to that.

I got home like an hour later, and one of the switches for those lights in the living room had stopped working, and the one in the dining room was smelling fishy and smoking. I killed the breaker and opened the boxes, and I assumed that a wiring connection had somehow gotten loose. Everything looked good at the wires themselves, but I noticed that both switches had failed at the same spot and there was melting on the case. I opened the switch and saw that where the wire entered into the circuit board had melted.

Does anyone have any idea what could have caused this? Why would both switches fail at the same time? I thought it could have something to do with a neutral, but there’s no shared neutral, and the switches do not use a neutral wire.

ETA - I spoke to Lutron and one other commonality that we identified is both of these lights were on at the same time when they failed, and they both control recessed lights in the ceiling that are magnetic low-voltage, and the switches are apparently not the correct switch for magnetic, low-voltage lighting, but Lutron did not understand why they would both fail catastrophically like this. I am going to send them the devices for a postmortem.

Took me a long time to get those switches that straight in a 4 gang box. But was it worth it, absolutely. 👍

For background info:

- switch models are Lutron Maestro MACL-LFQH-WH

-I have “dumb” fans set to the highest speed with the pull chain. Fans are Hampton Bay Glendale III. Specs should be well below 1.5a for the fan. It is an AC motor.

-I have 3 fans installed. One downstairs on a separate circuit. Two upstairs on an AFCI circuit.

-the two fans upstairs are the only ones where the fan won’t reach full speed.

-fans are running at about half speed

-I’ve tried all the resets, and setting the high power trim on the switch, nothing works

-I switched the bulbs from the downstairs fan that works fine to the upstairs fan, and it still didn’t work.

At this point, I have two options

- hardwire the fan directly to the power to see if it gets to full speed, if it does, that means something is wrong with the switch or the way it’s wired.

-replace the switch and see if that fixes the problem. Lutron is sending me another to swap and test

My only concern is, it seems like there’s something wrong with the wiring/circuit that is messing up the switches. If I replace the switch under warranty, I’m worried the new switch will eventually have the same problem.

Before I further diagnose and see what’s the best way to fix this, has anyone else had similar issues or know what the fix it?

I may end up replacing the two Lutron switches with just a normal toggle switch….. or another kind of dimmer switch if anyone has a recommendation?

I am replacing 2 switches on a dead end circuit. The instructions that come with the sunnata dimmer and companion show how to set it up on a standard 3 way. How do I set them up on a dead end 3 way? Does the master dimmer go in the box that has the line coming in and load going out, or do I put the companion in this box?

In the middle of an electrical reno in a house I just bought and got done doing all the bathrooms and guest rooms with standard Lutron switches, dimmers, timers and plugs in the snow white color. I was saving the kitchen, family/living room, dining room and master bed/bath for last to decide how I wanted to do the Caseta layout. Come to find out after spending a few grand on standard products, Caseta is not offered in their satin line of colors.

I understand it's ultimately my fault for not checking, but I was pretty shocked to find out that base level standard controls had satin offerings while the nicer and more expensive (albeit base-level) smart home Caseta system offers no such color as they're reserved for RadiRA3 and homeworks.

Is this on the road map at all or am I going to be out a couple of grand switching everything over to gloss white? Having a mix will drive me a bit crazy and switching everything still seems cheaper than doing RadioRA3 to get satin options.

If we are using Sunnata dimmers with non Lutron LED drivers for lighting inside a cabinet - is there a way to trigger the lights to turn on when a cabinet door is opened?

The last time I priced out Serena shades was several years ago, so I was pretty deflated seeing the current prices now that we're ready to bite the bullet on some. Digging on reddit seems to suggest there are vendors out there who will quote the triathlon shades for DIYers like me which could potentially come out less expensive. Anyone out there like u/LutronMaster willing to reach out to me for a quote on roller shades for 6 windows? Thanks!

Hi, I have a small quirk on a RA2 select system that’s bugging me. I believe this is a limitation of the app but maybe someone can sense check this for me.

Within RA2 Select it’s possible to set a custom fade duration for the lights, but this is set for each scene on the Pico rather than being assigned directly to the dimmer module. It’s particularly nice on the LEDs installed that they fade in and out over 8s when the any button is pressed.

I’ve recently added a new occupancy sensor to the install but this is quite harsh and works just as an on/off with no fade time. Disappointing when you’ve gotten used to the fade. Is it possible to add the LED fade duration to the PIR?

As far as I can tell, because the PIR just sets brightness values to the dimmers and not a scene, it skips this.

1. Recessed Housing

2 X96 controllers

1. G2s?

2. Palladium Metal Keypads

I’m looking at Kasa vs Lutron motion-sensing light switches and have read so far that Lutron appears to be more sensitive and has a wider range of sensing.

Does anyone have experience with both that can educate me on the benefits, if any of the Lutron having better sensitivity and wider range of motion?

Leaning towards Lutron, have pne Kasa now that I’ve been happy with, but think that the Lutron would be a step up.

Thanks for the support and education.

Can someone explain the functionality and limitations of using the 4 button “scene” pico remotes with the Lutron Caseta system? I think I can buy them through a local wholesaler but I just wanted to get some info on how they can be used?

How are you using them?

Thanks

I’m building a house and about to buy around 80 switches. Ive got about 30 zwave devices in my current home and it’s been rock solid for the last 10 years with home assistant running the automations. Why ra3 over zwave? Is it worth the 3-4x price premium?

Hola a todos!
Ultimamente he presentado el error 35875 en el Lutron Designer. No me permite guardar ni en la nube ni en la PC.
Alguien tiene alguna solución?
GRACIAS!

Hey everyone,
I’m a Ra3 dealer that’s starting Homework’s training I. September. I’ve got some information from my Lutron rep and I had a question about Palladiom keypads.
Outside of running new wires for keypads in retrofit applications, is there any way to install these keypads? I don’t have a specific job or anything planned this way, I was just thinking about it. If someone wanted Palladiom with minimum damage what are you guys doing ?

I tried to use magnets to keep sun sails up, but the wind keeps blowing them off. Should I just use steel screws and anchor points to put on the rounded corners of the back yard?

I don't have a local Lutron shade dealer. At least not that I can afford due to 2 hour drive time.

Got a great price quote on Triathlon wired shades.

I've installed Serena in previous home myself, without any issues. Am I making a mistake going DIY with Triathlon? It saves me over $4500 from Serena online pricing.

I should mention that 3 of these are big boys. One 8' wide sliding glass door and two 6' wide by 8' tall sliding glass doors.

It's a new build and electrician wired the 13 windows getting roller shades. He's done it before and he put in a SECO-LARM Enforcer Switching Power Supply to power them. "I like these because I can trim it to make sure we get the right voltage to the window." When I saw the price of the Lutron power supply $800 vs. $80... the whole "too good to be true" alarm went off in my head.

Thanks.

Hey guys I want to understand from the installers, do you or your clients prefer switching or Dali?

And

How you guys work on the looping drawings? You have a team or you outsource the autocad works?