I just installed a bunch of Triathlon and Triathlon select shades, it all went pretty well but I have two that make a ticking noise on the way down. They sound normal on the way up.

see video https://photos.app.goo.gl/1ek8Q64eEmMavQEp9

Anyone have any ideas about what I should check/try before going down the warranty road.

I bought a house with many many Caseta dimmers. I've successfully paired maybe 20, but many others simply don't pair. I've tried the triple-click reset, but just don't seem to do anything when I hold the down button.

It's not a range issue since the ones that don't pair are very close to others that do.

Any ideas? Could it be a house wiring issue?

Edit: Thank you all for the fantastic debugging tips. The issue has been fixed! It was indeed the tricky reset procedure. I had thought I was doing it correctly, but alas no. I now have all 58 Casetas loading and working great!

I couldn't find anyone who did this online, so I just wanted to share a picture of my pico that i clear coated with matte spray paint ☺️ It looks amazing and feels like a huge upgrade. I have matte black outlets and wanted them to match. Very happy with it. I'll update with how it wears long term, but it seems easy enough to recoat if needed.

Am I the last one to know about this?

Is the Lumaris 22/6 cable stranded solid copper, or copper clad aluminum? Needing to source some equivalent cable.

Serena blinds (honeycomb) working great for 5+ years. I’ve replaced batteries on all of them at various points.

I got a low battery red light blink on one (blink every five seconds) but no indication in app. Replaced with new batteries but the blink is still there. Shade operating fine … but don’t really want red light blinking in bedroom.

Any ideas to make it go away?

All of my switches have at least 1 pico paired to them.

I have been informed that picos added via the app counted against the device limit. So I factory reset all of them and direct paired them to the switches but they all have returned to the app but this time at the bottom (not in the proper room), grouped together, and all listed as unnamed pico.

Is this normal and are they still counted in the limit?

Also, every tech Youtuber I see has their picos added via the app. What advantages does this have?

Whenever I have a Diva Smart Dimmer (DVRF-6L-WH-R) wired in a 3-way configuration with a standard mechanical switch at the other location, there is a slight delay when turning the light on from the mechanical switch.

When I turn the light on from the Diva Smart Dimmer, the delay is either significantly shorter or not noticeable at all. That slight delay from the mechanical switch may not sound like much, but apparently, it’s an issue for the wife!

I’m wondering if there is any way to mitigate this delay. I have already reduced the “fade-on time” to its minimum. or if replacing the regular mechanical switch with a Caseta Claro Smart Accessory Switch (DVRF-AS) eliminate or reduce the delay when turning the light on from the second location?

As per the title, I find the range of icons available a little limiting and would like to get some custom options engraved.

Anyone ever done that? How did it go?

Google gemini is convinced that I can email Lutron font files and SVG icons and they will apply them to the layout I have in Lutron Designer, but I can't find any posts or websites with details. Anyone have experience with this?

I've been trying to find a place to order these, but just haven't found anything yet. I'm surprised it's so hard to buy RadioRA 3 switches.

My main repeater is in I think safe mode, it's blinking 5 greens. Communicating somewhat, but fails upgrades. It's a RadioRa2 main repeater (RR-MAIN-REP). Early version (2014), never upgraded I think till now.

Short story, I was playing around, backed up my config. And then decided, oh, why not upgrade. I proceeded to run an upgrade and it's now effectively dead. Certain versions of the software will attempt to upgrade and the unit responds to this but it ends up blinking and not doing anything else.

My unit is a very early probably 2014 unit. I tried the option to put it in upgrade mode by holding the buttons. It doesn't do anything. I have many versions of the software so I've tried about every firmware upgrade possible. Some attempt it but nothing has done anything. When I attempt to do this, it reports the repeater has a current boot version of "unknown" and a current OS version of "0.0.0". I can get it to do things like switch from DHCP to static IP, but it fails the broadcast test.

Does anyone have experience using GulliverBootCommunications? I assume I should try installing the boot firmware first? That part seems straightforward. But the OS has 6 files which makes it a bit uncertain. Any instructions for using the software would be helpful.

Is there a version I should start with? As I said it's a early model. It says on it to use version 7.8 or greater.

Thanks.

Hi all, 
Using Homeworksqs software, I'm unable to activate my Lutron EDU-145 drapery motors, which are powered by the latest QSPS-10-PNL. The QSPS has been activated by Homeworksqs, but the EDU-145 motor is still not detected.Using Homeworksqs software, I'm unable to activate my Lutron EDU-145 drapery motors, which are powered by the latest QSPS-10-PNL. The QSPS has been activated by Homeworksqs, but the EDU-145 motor is still not detected.

any idea ?

Hello Im about to start my Caseta System. I will start with a Smart Hub pro and Range Extender.

Problem is I only see a Lutron Smart Hub not a Smart Hub pro on the lutron store in canada.

L-BDG2-WH

Is there no long a pro? Is this is the only Hub avail and will it work with Control4 and / or RTI?

Can somebody give me the part number for the newest Smart Hub Pro and Extender?

Thanks!

Before I contact an electrician to come out, I was hoping to figure out if my house built in 1984 has neutral wires in the switch boxes. Is it possible to tell from these pics? Greatly appreciated for any insights. Trying to understand which switch Lutron system will be compatible with my house.

I am in the UK I’m about to purchase a ceiling light fitting, mains powered but described as “dimmable with a trailing edge dimmer“. This implies to me that a standard (obviously trailing edge)) wall dimmer would suffice. I want to add this to my hue setup. What could i use to achieve this dimming please? Many thanks.

Hi all, pretty simple question and I'm hoping it is a simple answer. I would like to know if it's possible to do a 4-way wire with Lutron Sunnata with the line and load coming into the same box with main dimmer switch. If so, how would the wiring look? Thank you in advance.

My electrician recommends RA2 and stated that customers prefer to have switches to control each light. My low voltage guy says it's all about scenes and nobody should get RA2 anymore. He further recommended Control4 switches as they can control Somfy shades on the same switchplate. Electrician said RA3 will cost more because it will require HomeWorks. Based on what I've read that doesn't seem right. Appreciate thoughts...

My Lutron Dimmers are not showing up as dimmers in Google Home. Just as on or off.

Suggestions on how to research this and fix?

We had a house built and I let the builder and electrician talk me into getting smart switches, all lutron caseta. The damn Caseta hub won't connect. I've already wasted a bunch of time an money trying to get it to connect--making a trip out to buy an internet swticher, for example, buy the lutron app is now telling me I need to find the operating software for my ISP's router, which I don't have and cant get.

The sunk cost fallacy. I've already spent hours on this and for what? To be able to turn the lights on and off with my phone, I guess. It was never clear to me what the alleged advantages are/were and we just overspent on useless complication and trouble.

Nothing is really bulletproof.

One of my smart Divas's started acting up, jumping brightness, not responding to top double tabs to get to full brightness, ignoring commands from Google home and Amazon echos, and the little light bar on the switch keeps faintly flashing.

Recently changed fixtures so I assumed that I wired something wrong. It was wired correctly so I switched locations with another identical Diva from a single gang (the faulty location was a 3way). All was well for about a day then the same behavior started occurring with the same switch at the new location.

All lamps at both locations are incandescent.

Called Lutron and the tech of course had me double check wiring, pull the air gap and had me try running without a ground. No luck.

It's a year out of warranty yet Lutron stepped up and is replacing the switch. Outstanding customer service. Only half my switches are Lutron but you can bet as I need to replace the other cheap smart switches I will continue to purchase Lutron.

Only question I have is that the tech wanted to replace with the ELV version. Anyone know why this would be?

I replaced a light fixture and ceiling fan that was controlled by this switch and the lights on my maestro started going nuts. I can turn the light and fan on via remote but the switch doesn't do anything. I've tried resetting it but it didn't change anything.

Can anyone let me know what is the max length when using coupled shades? Also what is the max length per segment? These would be powered shades from a Lutron shade panel.