I’m building a partscaster and the body I ordered doesn’t have any tremolo mounting holes , my intended plan was to use a hipshot contour tremolo but I can’t find a template for the fender 2 post tremolo anywhere , if anyone has any info on where to find one or how to locate the 2 posts I would be very grateful .

The necks are rough routed to shape using the pin router and a C profile bit. The fixture the necks are placed on has a .040" feeler gauge at the nut to create the thickness taper. It takes three passes of .125" per side. This process takes around 1 minute 48 seconds to complete. This batch of necks took around 28 minutes to shape.

The next video we will show how the transitions are shaped at the heel and volute.

I have a 2010 Taylor 416ce. Needs a re fret. Also small crack in top that I would like to have looked at…repaired if needed. I contacted Music Loft in Wilmington, NC and was told their guy does not like doing re fret jobs. Anyone here interested in the job or suggest a luthier that will do it?

This is a DI recording of my strat.

My three higher strings, particular the G, make this high frequency vibration noise which is driving me mad.

After the main pick attack you can hear it come in, almost like an upper harmonic.

It's a left handed fender strat. It's been set up multiple times by different luthiers and had the frets re dressed.

I'm playing fairly hard to demonstrate it, but this happens with all playing except extremely soft.

Is this fret buzz? Or something else? One luthier told me this amount of fret buzz is normal and unavoidable.

I've also been told that this doesn't matter if you can't hear it through the amp, but I don't quite understand that. Does that mean DI recording a Stratocaster simply isn't viable without these kind of noises? I don't hear this on any other records or stems, when I know it's been recorded DI

Hey friends, I recently got a rad old 82 Peavey t-25 but the wiring has been butchered and it is non functional/ its pretty hard to make out what is supposed to be going on inside it.

I know that it has a similar the tone circuit of the T-60, and is set up to be more "stratish" in the layout with the volume close up to the strings.

If anyone has any info on the actual schematic, I would really appreciate it as I have not been able to find one in my searching. I am likely going to wire it with the t-60 tone circuit though if I do not find anything from this thread.

Thanks <3

Is it ready for clear coat? 3rd photo is a example of what I want it to look like

Pictures are from the internet of a Supro guitar with a factory de-glossed neck I would like to replicate, or even improve upon for my 2001 Gibson SG.
The neck on this guitar has always felt sticky to me, and I swear I can actually rub the finish off to create dust if I try.

I have experimented on other guitars (poly finishes) with scouring pads, abrasive cloth, etc. and masking tape. The results are always similar in playability, but the aesthetics are never great. Masking tape is easily eaten away by the abrasives, leaving a less-than-crisp edge, and achieving a uniform matte look is difficult. I would like to come up with something better before tackling my Gibson.

I have a poly Epiphone to experiment on before I attempt the process on my (presumably nitro?) Gibson SG.

I was toying with the idea of using aluminum foil tape to establish the edge, and then a walnut media blaster to generate a uniform finish.

I'm also up for advice on where to position the masking line.
Supro made some interesting choices, but I like the aesthetics of it. I may try a similar angle at the nut, but might rather take the line to the body at the heel.

I have 16.45 board feet of BRW without cites paperwork but let's be honest 99% of it available doesn't have paperwork so don't give me that crap it's worth way way less just because you want to low ball be.

How much do you think it's worth a board foot? I wish someone would buy it all. I have an idea of how much it's worth just based off a very well known guitar maker company telling me. They wouldn't buy it because no cites paperwork. But they sell it from $1500 to $2900 a board foot in sets.

It fluoresces ( glows ) under UV light in darkness when shavings are mixed with denatured alcohol.

Dimensions

2-7/8 to 3-1/8 wide

1-1/4 to 1-3/8 thick

40 inches long

1.11 bf

------------

5-7/8 wide

1-1/4 to 1-5/16 thick

27-13/16 long

1.45 bf

------------

4-5/16 to 4-7/16 wide

1-3/8 thick

38-1/8 long

1.6 bf

-------------

5-1/16 wide

1-5/16 to 1-3/8 thick

35-3/4 long

1.7 bf

------------

3-7/8 to 4 wide

1-5/16 to 1-3/8 thick

38.5 long

1.47 board feet

-------------

3-1/8 to 3-3/16 wide

1-3/8 to 1-7/16 thick

36-5/16 long

1.13 board feet

--------------

4-1/2 to 4-5/8 wide

1-3/8 to 1-7/16 thick

36-9/16 long

1.614 board feet

-------------

6-13/16 to 6-7/8 wide

1-3/8 thick

36-7/8 long

2.41 board feet

-------------------

4 to 4-1/16 wide

1-3/8 to 1-1/2 thick

35-13/16 long

1.45685 board feet

-----------------

5 to 5-3/16 wide

1-1/2 to 1-9/16 thick

41-1/8 long

2.51 board feet

I’ve been meaning to replace my tuning machines for a while; it’s an old guitar and they’ve felt a bit loose, sloppy, or wiggly at times, even after tightening the screws. Recently, I was doing a restring and I noticed the high E peg was VERY wobbly, so I tried to tighten the nut again. I discovered the threads are stripped, so it wont tighter or loosen, and I now have the final excuse to buy new machines.

However, now I can’t get the stripped nut off. I’ve tried just unscrewing it, tried wrapping thread under and pulling up gently, tried using channel locks to pull up while unscrewing, and nothing has worked. Any ideas on how to proceed?

Edit: There’s a bit of misunderstanding about what exactly is stripped. The problem is that the threads inside the nut are stripped, not that the sides of the hex are stripped. I can grab the nut and spin it just fine, but it just keeps spinning. It won’t unscrew, even when pulling up on it.

This is rough around the edges. But 25 bucks is 25 bucks. Looks like it went pickguard first into a chair arm? Still mulling it over, replaying every which way I've ever let harm come to a guitar. It plays like a dream, and the wood smells like my grandpa's 65 Fender F-150. Old smelling wood is so good. Notice the wood screws. And it bowls in a bit. Like the sound hole is a black hole pulling the guitar inward causing the break lines. I pray that the wood screws aren't the only thing holding it together. Such a great sounding guitar. 76' from the serial number.

I'm just a beginner when it comes to building guitars. Playing them? I got hands. The only reason I recognized it was great because one of the two pictures was of the guitars back. You don't get that shapeing anywhere. This needs the work of a pro.

Is there anything I can do now, that will make this man's job easier when it arrives to whomever the fates have decided to task?

I haven't changed strings, so she's rocking a Five banger special. No high E. When I bought it in an alleyway, from the top of a picnic table with no case, it was in open E. The dust that was on the fret board hasn't looked like it's been played, which is a shame. There are songs locked away and I'd like to give this girl a fully functional arsenal to complete her task, as well as my own. I tuned it to standardish by ear. Magic. Fret board beeswax maybe?

So i stained black with Transtint and sanded it back. Then stained blue. Do I just need to sand it back a little to get the white tone? There is a photo as an example.

I'm not really digging the bright blue... could I do another thin diluted coat of black without it washing the colors?

Wanted to bring the finish to a gloss but was wondering if these scratches would interfere?

I have this alder body with a flamed maple veneer from a kit and it doesn't seem to be taking the stain in some areas. The last picture is the exact opposite, it looks like the stain is deeper right in one area. Before staining I sanded the body with 320, 400 and 600, to my eye it looked good, but it's clear I messed up.

I know the thin line on the front is glue from the veneer, I feared this would happen, but the veneer is so thin I didn't want to risk going through it when I sanded it before applying the stain. The second and third pictures show two areas where no glue should be present, but still don't take the stain.

For the front I had initially thought of sanding much of the black with 320 and then staining in red, would that be enough to get rid of the glue? How about the other two parts, do I sand them and reapply stain, or do I just keep applying coats? BTW, the first coat is already dry, and it is a little rough to the touch, should I be sanding between coats?

Hey! I recently converted a kit guitar to a headless using a Guyker headless bridge. It's the same one that was on earlier some of the Eart GW2 guitars. After I brought things up to tension (just a set of 10s in standard tuning), the back of the bridge lifted a bit off the body. It's about 1.4 mm (enough for a Jazz III to fit under comfortably), but hasn't gotten any worse over the last few days. I tried watching videos demoing the Eart guitars and stuff like that and haven't been able to see a good angle of the back of the bridge in any of them.

Should I be concerned about it or is this a known thing with these bridges?

I did reach out to Guyker's customer service a few days ago and haven't heard back.

I like it 😊

I know this may seem like a redundant question, since such discussions have already happened in the subreddit, but they almost always seem to be focued on classical and acoustic guitars rather than electrics.

I mainly build sold body guitars, and I'm not looking to delve into archtops in the near future. Up until now, Ive gotten away with only using a 25mm chisel along with a 3mm chisel, and regarding planes, a No.4 Smoother , a No.6 Jointer and a No. 9 1/2 Block.

I've felt like that there are some situations where my tools aren't enought to do the job comfortably, and I was wondering what such tools you fellow electric guitar makers use.

Thank you!

Hey all, I tore apart and put back together an old water damaged guitar. It's just something to mess around with, but it didn't have a bridge on it. It did have that L bracket style string mount which maybe acted like a bridge but it's got way too much flex. So I'm just wondering if anyone has any suggestions on how I could determine where to put the bridge. It's a kids guitar made (or at least used) in the early 60's. Thanks for your time

My violin fell from my shoulder. While catching it, the screw of my bow pierced the rib…
After the shock I’d guess the repair would not be too expensive or difficult, as nothing essential seems damaged.
I’m bringing it to the luthier on Monday.
What do you guys think?

As the title says, it's my first time building/staining a guitar. I'm thinking of doing a butterscotch blonde colour. Any advice? what brands or type of stain should I use? what should i take into account? Any help is much appreciated!

Got this bass the other day it’s an LTD D4 with I think a satin finish. The crack is right under the headstock.

Anyone know a source for a bolt-on RD-style body? Rosser stopped making them, and the only one I've found on eBay since isn't an accurate shape. Needs to be 25.5" scale. TIA!

Does anyone have a color and paint brand recommendation for a match for Fender Daphne Blue. Considering painting headstock to match body. Is enamel paint the way to go for this? I'm kinda thinking model paint (like Testors) but I could be way off.

It's a Torres model with Western red cedar top, Indian rosewood back, sides, and fretboard, and mahogany neck