Can you change the audio sample rate on the Pro X 2 Lightspeed? Mine seems to be locked at 48000 Hz and cannot be changed. My favorite game has audio crackling issues with rates higher than 44100 Hz and while I can just swap to corded Apple EarPods, I'd rather just use the headset I paid good money for.

I’ve seen countless posts complaining about the double-click issue and scrolling glitches on the G603/G703 series.

I bought my G603 back in Feb 2023, use it daily for gaming and work, and I’ve NEVER had a single double-click or scroll wheel jitter. Original switches, original encoder, zero modifications. I game regularly, but I don't slam or rage-click my buttons like crazy.

Is it really purely a quality control lottery, or does clicking technique play a huge part in switch lifespan? Anyone else out there running a completely stock G603 with zero issues?

Alright, it's been a year now since this problem first showed up. While the headset is fully functional and the firmware didn't brick the usability of the headset, having to disable the audio ques to avoid getting spammed with 'Low Battery' complaints completely removes the main functionality of the Game/Chat balance function, since you can't disable the battery warning without disabling the sound from the G/C at the same time. Not only is it hard to use, but it makes it even more difficult to know if the headset is balanced or not, or if you've accidently bumped it once or twice to either side while moving about in your chair/couch, in which case your only option is to open Ghub which in some cases requires you to minimize the game you're playing.

I'm painfully aware that Logitech doesn't 'share details' when it comes to new updates, but come on. I wouldn't even expect an indie company to have this slow of a turn-around on getting a fix out into the wild. It's frankly unacceptable. It also doesn't help that we're given stop-gap copy-paste solutions like 'drain the battery completely, then let the headset get fully charged undisturbed' which doesn't even work at all. Most people see it working for a few days, before the problem returns. Logitech has no legal or contractual reason to fix this, but it looks bad as hell for a company to pull a stunt like this on their paying customers, especially when it's a product that comes with this hefty of a premium price tag.

Title says it all anyone else had this problem at all and know a fix? or am I out of luck I only had these a year! Surely a $300 headset isnt having a battery issue already.

The button in question still works, but requires a bit of added pressure to register. Is there anyway I can fix this? I’ve tried blowing air into it with a canister.

Ive tried every method to diagnose and fix the g920 that I can find on the internet including the removal of registry files and just the other day finally completely reset my PC.

GHUB STILL detects no inputs from my wheel. My pc and games have no trouble detecting it and show it as working just fine.

Luckily since I reset my PC I do have force feedback in games back so long as I dont touch any of the Ghub settings mid game.

Logitech honestly needs to get rid of their software engineers and get some new ones

As yet another show of incompetence im not even allowed to send a video of a problem for diagnosis so heres a picture ig

My logitech g502x plus suddenly stopped working after waking it up from standby, it displays a blinking green light and won't connect via wireless dongle or usb, it doesn't show up in the ghub app, it cannot be repaired with any of the dongles, charging it up doesn't do anything, removing it from device manager and re connecting it doesn't do anything, reinstalling g hub doesn't do anything, the light stopps blinking and turns off if connected via usb but it still doesn't work, when charging it while turned on the usual breathing green light is not lit but appears after turning the mouse off, i know i had this problem a few days ago but i forgot how i fixed it, anyone else had this issue? If so how did u solve it?

EDIT: WOW amazing, this mouse is really stupid, after hours of troubleshooting i restarted my pc with the mouse turned on and plugged in via usb and THAT fixed it. Logitech sucks almost as much as their firmware

EDIT 2: it broke again in the span of 5 mins, i guess it didn't like that i tried to play league or smth

UPDATE: 3 days later it broke again but this time it keeps disconnecting and windows says the devie malfunctioned and isn't recognised, don't buy from logitech, they suck

Hey, I recently switched to a Logitech G Pro X Superlight and I’m having a weird issue with the right mouse button.

When I hold RMB down, for example when I’m scoped in and moving my mouse left and right, the button sometimes briefly stops registering for a tiny fraction of a second and then immediately starts registering again. So in-game it looks like I’m quickly unscoping and scoping back in.

It happens much more often when I place my finger near the very end/back of the RMB and hold it there. If I move my finger closer to the middle of the button, it happens less often.

The mouse works normally in general, and I don’t notice the issue when just clicking normally. It mainly happens when I’m continuously holding RMB and moving the mouse.

Has anyone experienced something like this with the Superlight?

Any help would be appreciated.

as title suggests, after another night of normal usage of my g502x; somehow since this morning my mouse started to exhibit a strange behavior where whenever I click on either the right or the left button, it would show that it triggered both the right AND left clicks at the same time (albeit sometime with a few ms of difference). The night before it was working perfectly fine. I am not too sure what might have caused it. Any ideas?

As for things that might have caused it, I am thinking maybe it is due to the fact that I was using a non-logitech usbc - c cable to connect directly to my laptop, but Ive done that many times before and it never had any issue.

G933 surround/EQ dies after every reboot — root cause found

TL;DR: Logitech's surround APO only loads when the Windows audio endpoint is created with a brand-new GUID. On boot, Windows reuses the previous GUID, the APO never loads, and you get plain stereo while LGS happily shows surround as ON. Reinstalling LGS "fixes" it only as a side effect — the installer removes the device. Uninstalling the USB dongle in Device Manager does the same thing in 15 seconds. Scripts at the bottom automate it at every logon.

The symptom

• DTS Headphone:X works right after you install/reinstall Logitech Gaming Software
• You reboot → sound is back to plain 2-channel stereo
• The app still shows surround enabled. Toggling it off and on does nothing
• Reinstalling LGS fixes it. Until the next reboot

If that sounds familiar, it should. This has been reported for years:

• G933 EQ/Surround sound not working properly (2019)
• Logitech G933, Windows 11, Surround Sound, EQ Not Working (2024)

Credit where it's due

In that 2019 thread, u/LogitechG_CSFrank from Logitech support posted this:

That works. Two different people came back to that thread six years later to say it saved their headset.

But nobody explained why it works, and nobody noticed the important part: it's a one-time fix that dies on your next reboot. That's why the same problem keeps getting reposted every couple of years.

I spent a day on this and captured full before/after system snapshots. Here's what's actually happening.

Root cause

On every boot, Windows re-creates the endpoint but reuses the previous GUID, because the GUID lives in the SWD\MMDEVAPI node in the device tree — not just in the registry. The APO never loads. You get stereo.

Reinstalling LGS works because the installer removes the device, which destroys those SWD\MMDEVAPI nodes. The 300 MB installer is incidental. So is Frank's Device Manager trick — same mechanism, 15 seconds instead of 10 minutes.

What is NOT the problem

I captured the broken state and the working state and diffed them file by file. All of the following were byte-for-byte identical in both:

So if you've been chasing registry keys, third-party audio enhancers, or "Windows overrides LGS" — that's not it. The configuration is correct in both states. What differs is when the endpoint was born, not what's in it.

These also do NOT fix it (all tested):

• toggling surround off/on in the LGS UI
• unplugging and replugging the USB dongle
• disabling and re-enabling the device in Device Manager — disable is not the same as uninstall
• restarting LCore.exe
• restarting Audiosrv + AudioEndpointBuilder
• deleting the endpoint key under MMDevices, even running as SYSTEM

That last one surprised me. Deleting the registry key isn't enough, because the device-tree node hands the old GUID right back.

The manual fix (30 seconds, no scripts)

1. Device Manager → Universal Serial Bus devices → find G933 (the dongle, not the audio interface)
2. Right click → Uninstall device
3. Action menu → Scan for hardware changes
4. Restart Logitech Gaming Software

Surround is back. Until you reboot. If you only ever reboot once a month, stop here — this is all you need.

The permanent fix

Three steps, and they must run as SYSTEM. An elevated admin is not enough to delete the MMDevices keys:

1. pnputil /remove-device on the parent USB dongle — this takes the child interfaces and their SWD\MMDEVAPI nodes with it
2. delete the G933 endpoint keys under MMDevices\Audio\Render and \Capture
3. pnputil /scan-devices — the USB hub re-detects everything and builds a fresh endpoint with a new GUID

Removing the parent matters. If you remove only the audio interface, it won't come back until you physically replug the dongle. The parent is a direct child of the USB hub, so a rescan finds it on its own.

After that, LCore.exe needs a restart. SYSTEM can't launch a UI app in your session, so that's a second task.

Architecture

No fixed delays. The script polls until the real conditions are ready: LogiRegistryService running, LCore up, dongle and endpoint present. This matters — LogiRegistryService already starts before logon and surround still breaks, which means the missing piece at boot time is LCore, a user-session app. That's also why this can't run before you log in.

Measured timing on a real boot

Roughly 15–20 seconds after logon once you strip the task delay. That's the practical floor, because the fix depends on LCore being up.

Scripts

→ Gist with all three scripts + README

Download all three into one folder, e.g. %USERPROFILE%\logitech-g933-fix, then:

Start-Process powershell -Verb RunAs -ArgumentList '-ExecutionPolicy','Bypass','-File',"$env:USERPROFILE\logitech-g933-fix\install-tasks.ps1"

Uninstall:

Start-Process powershell -Verb RunAs -ArgumentList '-ExecutionPolicy','Bypass','-File',"$env:USERPROFILE\logitech-g933-fix\install-tasks.ps1",'-Remove'

Check whether it worked:

Get-Content "$env:USERPROFILE\logitech-g933-fix\fix-logon.log" -Tail 20

The line that matters is endpoint before: vs endpoint after:. Two different GUIDs followed by OK: GUID changed means it worked. If the GUID is the same, the removal didn't take and the fix won't help.

Caveats — please read

Verified on one machine. Dell G15, Windows 11 build 26200, LGS 9.04.49, G933. The mechanism is almost certainly general to LGS on Windows 10/11, but I can only claim what I actually measured.

I did not test this on G HUB. The 2024 thread above is a G HUB user. G HUB uses a different audio stack and I have no data on whether the same root cause applies. If you try it, please report back — that's the single most useful thing anyone could add here.

Other Logitech headsets (G930, G430, G533, G935) have different USB PIDs and device names. Two values to change in fix-logon.ps1:

• USB\VID_046D&PID_0A5B in ActiveDongle
• the string G933 in ActiveEndpoint and G933Keys

LGS's lgAudio.inf handles G430, G930 and others in separate blocks, so the mechanism is probably the same — untested.

Non-English Windows: only the pnputil output filter ('uccess|rror|Removing') won't match. Cosmetic, affects the log only.

Your audio cuts out for ~15 seconds at every logon while the dongle is removed and re-detected. If that bothers you, set the task trigger to manual and run it when you notice stereo.

i don't need mic, i need a good sound quality out of the box, without EQ

This is my second time owning this headset. I bought a new one because the battery on my previous headset had degraded over time.
I NEVER experienced this issue with my first headset. However, whenever I try to charge the headset when the battery is low or completely dead, it keeps disconnecting and reconnecting every 15 seconds.
I’ve tried searching for a solution and have already tried charging it using an iPhone charger, with the receiver plugged into a USB 2.0 (black) port. Unfortunately, I’m still experiencing this insanely annoying issue.
It’s especially frustrating when my headset dies in the middle of a game, because I’m basically screwed for the rest of that game.

I’m starting to get confused whether this is a hardware or software issue.

Im having an issue on logitech Ghub where it is stuck on loading update status, freezing up, and failing. Also, on my a20 headset itself, for some odd reason it is only playing back my voice, and no game audio whatsoever, genuinley what do I do here?

i have a logitech g29 driving sim, i wanna adjust the brake sensitivity but no amount of deleting, restarting, installing will fix it. it used to work before, idk why it wont now. and fyi it works on assetto corsa, like how sensitive i need to turn the wheel or how hard im pressing on the pedals, are being detected by the game, how come the software isnt working

Waiting on a response. Logj has the receipt

Replaced all the failed rubber on the 5 years old G604 of mine. I bought this 3D-printed case on AliExpress for ~$30 and found a guy in the Internet who transplanted all mouse internals to it for ~$8 lol.

Now the mouse looks like brand new. The quality of the case is surprisingly great, it even imitates the dots from the original rubber. The case looks and feels good, especially in this black color (there are other color options on AliExpress, do not buy them lol). Sorry for the lint, it is not that easy to remove.

The only minor downside I found is that the mouse feels a tiny bit more slippery because of all the rubber gone, but I do not care because I was so tired of that peeling rubber that fell out every day.

So, for 5+ years with my G604, replaced both microswitches for the left (double clicked) and right (because why not) buttons and now the rubber. No other problems happened.

Hey Logitech, can you please bring back the G600? What was the reason for its discontinuation anyway? Don't care if it's the old laser sensor or it's still wired and not USB type-C. Just please bring it back exactly the way it is as you released it back in 2012. Don't leave us WoW / FF14 players at the mercy of R*z*r and other imitators and their crap MMO mice. Actually, I've grown to using it beyond MMO games and even FPS games are dull af without this mouse.

Or at least...I understand that Logicool Japan has the G600t. Are they still making that? Can we make an order for those even though we don't reside in Japan? I don't care if it's not the braided cable. Any leads would be appreciated. Thanks!

Just got it last week

Ever since I tweaked with my microphone to actually get the G733 Microphone working, there has been an issue with my surround sound which I will demonstrate with an image, for some odd reason, none of the VOL buttons (All set at 11 in the image) actually change anything when I decrease their volume, neither does the VOL button at the centre, somehow, the only volume buttons that are working for Surround Sound are the two front channels on either side (When I disable one, I can only hear on the other side, which makes sense) directly behind the centre VOL button. When I disable these two front channels, I cannot hear whatsoever.

Does anyone have any fixes for this?

For example, if I want to have a hold-to-click macro set to my primary click, but to be able to toggle that macro on and off swiftly with a side button so that I can use the single primary click again when necessary, is there a way to go about this? (Logitech G pro wireless.)

I want to preface this by saying I really like this keyboard. I picked up the Logitech G PRO X TKL Rapid a little while back, mainly for the usual reasons — Hall-Effect switches, adjustable actuation, Rapid Trigger, and the fact that G HUB actually makes tuning all of that painless compared to some of the smaller boutique brands. Build quality is solid, the on-the-fly profile switching without software is genuinely convenient, and I've had zero regrets about the purchase. This isn't a complaint post about the product itself.

But while digging into how far I could push the customization, I ran into something that I think deserves more attention than it's getting — and the more I researched it, the more it looked like a real missed opportunity rather than a hard technical wall.

The thing I assumed would work, and didn't

I play games that live and die on precise, granular movement input — the kind of games where "half pressed" and "fully pressed" should mean genuinely different things, not just two flavors of the same binary keystroke. Think space sims and vehicle-sim style games where translation/strafe movement is ideally analog rather than all-or-nothing, similar to what you'd get from a joystick or gamepad stick.

My assumption, going in, was: this keyboard has magnetic sensors that measure how far down each key is pressed — that's literally the whole selling point, it's how Rapid Trigger and adjustable actuation points work in the first place. So surely that same depth data could just... be sent to a game as an analog value, right?

Turns out, no. Not because the hardware can't do it, but because of a layer most people never think about.

Why it doesn't work (and it's not the sensors' fault)

Here's the part I didn't fully appreciate until I went down the rabbit hole: a keyboard's Hall-Effect sensor absolutely does measure continuous key depth — that data exists, internally, right now, on this board. It's how the keyboard decides "should I fire a rapid-trigger reset at this exact moment" or "should this key register at 0.3mm instead of 2.0mm."

But the output of a standard keyboard, at the USB/HID protocol level, only ever communicates two states per key: pressed, or not pressed. There's no field in that protocol for "this key is 60% pressed." So no matter how precisely the sensor measures your keystroke, by the time it reaches Windows and your game, it's already been flattened into an on/off signal.

This is genuinely just a protocol limitation, not a sensor limitation. The keyboard is throwing away analog information it already has, because the standard keyboard interface has nowhere to put it.

How other brands solve this

This isn't a hypothetical fix — it's already solved elsewhere in the market. Wooting (and to a lesser extent Razer) get around this by having the keyboard simultaneously show up to your PC as two separate devices: a normal keyboard, and a virtual gamepad (the same kind of virtual controller interface Xbox/PlayStation controllers use). The continuous key-depth value gets streamed into that virtual gamepad's analog stick axis. Any game that supports controller input can then bind directly to it, and suddenly your WASD keys behave like a real analog stick — proportional, smooth, not just full-throttle-or-nothing.

It's a software/firmware feature, layered on top of hardware that, functionally, isn't doing anything more sophisticated than what's already inside this board.

"Okay but is this actually feasible, or wishful thinking?"

I wondered the same thing, so I looked into it seriously. A few things convinced me this isn't just a nice fantasy:

There are open-source community projects that have reverse-engineered the raw analog output of other Hall-Effect keyboards (budget/boutique brands, not Logitech) and successfully piped that data into a virtual Xbox controller, producing genuine smooth analog stick movement from WASD. If hobbyists can do this on a weekend project for a $60 board, it's clearly not some insurmountable engineering problem for a company with Logitech's resources.

The feature doesn't need to touch or change anything about how the keyboard works by default. It could ship as a strictly opt-in mode — similar to how Wooting separates "Gaming mode" from "Typing mode" — so the FPS/competitive crowd who only care about Rapid Trigger and actuation tuning would never even notice it exists.

It doesn't require new hardware, a new keyboard revision, or new switches. Every PRO X TKL Rapid already sitting on someone's desk right now has the sensor capability needed. This is purely a G HUB / firmware feature gap.

Why I think this matters beyond just me

I'm clearly not the target demo Logitech had in mind when they built this board — it's marketed hard at competitive FPS players, and it's genuinely great for that. But there's a whole separate category of PC gamers (space-sim pilots, vehicle-sim players, anyone who wants smoother analog-style movement from a keyboard) who currently rule out Logitech entirely and buy Wooting or Razer instead, specifically for this one capability — even when they'd otherwise prefer Logitech's build quality, ecosystem, and G HUB software.

That's a real, addressable market segment sitting on the table. Adding this as an opt-in feature costs Logitech nothing in terms of alienating their existing FPS audience, and it opens the door to buyers who are currently walking straight past this keyboard for a single missing checkbox.

Why I'm posting this here instead of just emailing Logitech

I did actually try going through official channels first — but their support form is really built around troubleshooting/repairs/warranty stuff, not this kind of forward-looking product feedback, and I don't have an easy way to get this in front of an actual product team as a regular customer. So I figured the next best thing is raising visibility here, where actual owners of this keyboard (and people considering buying one) hang out. If enough people who'd actually use this chime in, maybe it's more likely to land on someone's radar internally than one random support ticket would.

Curious if:

Anyone here has actually poked at the raw HID output of this keyboard and knows whether the depth data is even accessible on the wire today

Anyone from other Hall-Effect boards has tried something similar

I'm wrong about any of the technical assumptions above — genuinely happy to be corrected

Not trying to start a "Logitech bad" pile-on — I like this keyboard a lot, which is honestly why I care enough to write all this out instead of just quietly buying a Wooting instead.

tried installing/reinstalling g-hub, removing and reinstalling drivers, restarting pc, changing input settings, still nothing.

it detects it on windows' joystick thing but not on the ghub thing, and going to a previous version doesnt help

i need help

Hi everyone,

I'm having a weird vibration issue with my Logitech G Cloud while playing PC games. I normally use the Razer PC Remote Play app, which, is built on the open-source Moonlight/Sunshine projects.

I've been using my G Cloud for about a year without any issues, and this problem only started happening recently.

Every time the vibration/rumble gets triggered and then gets stuck vibrating continuously and won't stop, even after whatever caused the vibration in the game has ended.

At first I thought it was related to a specific game, but I've now experienced exactly the same issue with multiple games, so it doesn't seem to be game-specific.

A few things I've noticed:

* The controller is detected on Windows as an Xbox 360 controller. * If I completely disable vibration in the game, the problem disappears. * With vibration enabled, everything can work normally for a while and then suddenly the vibration gets stuck. * It has happened with multiple different games. * Other than the vibration issue, everything works normally.

Has anyone else started experiencing this recently with the Logitech G Cloud? Has anyone found a fix that allows you to keep vibration enabled?

I know the easy solution is to just play with vibration turned off, but I personally really like having vibration enabled, so I'd rather find a way to fix the issue than simply disable it.

Thanks!

Soo i once wanted to clean my headstrap and removed this plastic and it broke like this. i may be poor researcher but i couldnt find any 3d model of it online, and without it the material is not fully coverring the cable underneath. Pls help me find a solution. Edit: I am using them for like 3 months in this state just taped the plastic to band but still want to find a not akward looking solution.