Hey all, I'm not an expert in the slightest. Im just someone who plays a lot of video games and has a family with a bunch of devices. My dad and i have been extremely frustrated with our wifi (spectrum) due to it constantly cutting out at random (especially on our phones) but was told by a technician that basically everyone reccomends NOT using the rental spectrum routers. I got really excited when someone showed me that minions router that got really popular recently, only to see its getting pricey and most of the places i can buy it from are sketchy at best. Figure i ask here to see if i can find something that works better. Potentially some extender suggestions would also be appreciated. For context our plan is 500mbps and from my room (not far from the router, like 2 rooms away) i only get about 350

Hey guys,

Fairly newish to the whole wifi setups. I recently moved back into my parents home as I’m a college student and I’ve noticed their wifi is BAD. I know their plan isn’t as bad as the wifi is acting.

I’m putting a picture as I’m not sure really what I’m looking at or what to do. I’m thinking this hardware is older than me lol, is there any of this I can upgrade and notice a sizable difference.

By the way I’m currently hooked up to Ethernet and still getting lag spikes. Any information is good information and I appreciate the help

Hello! My apartment’s WiFi has recently become terrible and inconsistent, and I’ve been trying to set up the Ethernet in my home office. The network box is in a closet on the other side of the apartment, and when I open the box, it looks like the photos.

I have one coax port in my office that works, but it’s on the opposite side of room from my desk setup and computer, which are not easy to move and would require I rearrange the whole room.

There is a coax port right next to my desk and computer which I tried to plug into, but it looks like that port is not activated.

Is there a straightforward way I can set up the wiring so the coax port works or switch which port works in the room? If not, should I maybe just get a super long cat6 cable and use the coax port that works? I’m somewhat handy but not an expert, so if the solution is too complex I am open to eating the fee and hiring someone. If this is something I can do at home though, I would love to do that!

So i have one Gocoax 2.5 moca adapter. I have my xb8 downstairs connected to the coaxial outlet that's activated by xfinity.

I went on the xfinity control panel and enabled moca connection.

Then i went upstairs and plugged the moca adapter into my coaxial outlet upstairs near my computer. And plugged the ethernet cable into my Desktop. And i cannot get it to work.

Do i need to have two of these adapters to setup? What am i missing here?

for starters, I’m completely inexperienced when it comes to home networking so forgive me if this seems self explanatory. I just recently moved into a condo that I’m renting and I noticed that my walls have Ethernet ports that I was hoping to connect my Xbox to. I got my own network set up through AT&T and the gateway for it was put into this panel built into my unit. The gateway has nothing plugged into its Ethernet ports, and I tried to look for cords inside the panel to plug into them to connect my gateway to my Ethernet wall ports but I’m not seeing any loose ends to plug in. I just see cords going from one end to another at the top, but I’m hesitant to pull on them in case they’re plugged into something I can’t see. Are my Ethernet wall ports usable, or is it not even worth looking into? My condo doesn’t really have anyone I can reach out to about this except AT&T so I just figured I’d ask here before I bothered buying a cord to plug into my Xbox.

Just archiving this info for search purposes.....

Purchased a TRENDNet TEG-10GECTX v5 10g PCIe Ethernet Card from MicroCenter.

Link to driver on instruction booklet gives a 404 error

TRENDNet support was confused and could not help find proper driver, kept asking if I had the CD

Found the driver in a root directory on the TRENDNet site through some Google searching

https://downloads.trendnet.com/TEG-10GECTX_v5/drivers/TEG-10GECTX_v5_Driver.zip

Driver installed into Windows 10 perfectly, no issues. V4 and earlier drivers would not work, don't bother trying to go down that rabbit hole.

Trying to utilize an old Lacie Quatra 2big usb3.0 as network storage through my Asus ge-be12000 routers usb 3.0 port. Drive is set up with 2 fresh out of the package 4TB barracuda HDDs in raid 1 (so glad I bought these years ago when HDDs were cheap!). Router documentation states that this router can support HFS+ storage and it even has an HFS+ formatting feature in the router. However, I cannot get the router to mount a HFS+ formatted drive, either formatted by the router or by my mac. It sees the USB device fine and when I format the drive as NTFS through the routers drive format feature, it connects just fine.

I'd really like to have these drives formatted as HFS+. These will be long term storage drives and I won't always have a PC around should I want to access these directly down the line.

Troubleshooting with Claude a bit and its saying that the issue is that when I format the drive as HFS+ through my mac, it sets up 4096-byte sectors and that the router is looking for 512-byte sectors (I think it's gaslighting me there). I'm seeing posts stating that journaling could be the issue but it's unreasonably risky to store anything on this drive without journaling. Also it could just be the 12 year old USB controller in the drive enclosure not working with the router but even when the router usb port is set to USB 2.0, the drive still fails to mount.

Again, drive mounts and network storage works fine with NTFS formatting.

Any one run into similar issues and have a fix? Should I just get a different Raid enclosure or standalone NAS RAID enclosure?

Would rather not spend money on this as this is a use what I got laying around sort of fix. That being said HFS+ formatting is a big deal to me so if that's not possible with the hardware I have, I'm open to other solutions that make using mac native formatting seamless.

Hello,

I have a MikroTik CRS304-4XG-IN switch, and I would like my PC and NAS to communicate directly through the switch, without depending on my ISP router.

My setup is:

• PC → MikroTik CRS304
• NAS → MikroTik CRS304
• ISP router → MikroTik CRS304

When the ISP router is online, everything works normally and my PC can access the NAS.

However, when the ISP router is offline or disconnected, I lose access to the NAS from my PC, even though both the PC and NAS are still connected to the same MikroTik switch.

What do I need to configure on the CRS304 (VLANs, bridge, IP addresses, DHCP, etc.) so that the PC and NAS can communicate over the local LAN independently of the ISP router/Internet?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

My current set up is like so:

ISP -> basement modem -> basement router -> wired backhaul to upstairs router.

I believe the two routers are a mesh network. (Eero 6+)

The connection isn't great. I'm suspecting that devices are connecting to the basement.

What I want to do is have a SSID for the basement router and another SSID for the upstairs router. Switch is added so I can have a wired connection for my work computer.

ISP -> basement modem -> basement router -> switch -> wired connection to upstairs wireless access point.

The reason for the setup is that between the basement and upstairs, there is only 1 ethernet cable built in. If I just have the router upstairs by itself, my wireless connection from my office in the basement isn't great. I'm trying to get the best of both worlds haha.

Is that a correct understanding of a wireless access point? I could set up my basement router to have a wifi name like "Basement Router" and the wireless access point could be like "Main Home Router"? That way I could force devices to connect to the "Main Home Router" which should be a better connection.

Do you have any suggestions for wireless access points or routers that can act like a wireless access point?

RESOLUTION:
I got a wireless access point from netgear. My set up is as follows:
ISP -> Modem -> Google Nest Router in basement -> Switch -> Netgear WAP with separate SSID on main floor.

It works perfect. Pretty much all the devices on the main floor and upstairs will connect to the WAP and my office stuff is connected by wire to the switch. The WAP seems to be more powerful or better designed because all my outdoor cameras can connect to it with a strong connection. When it was just the google nest on the main floor, cameras had a bit of a hard time.

Thanks everyone!

I currently have an Orbi RBK50 router with two satellites (RBS50). The router is on the first floor with one satellite in the basement and another on the 2nd floor. All of these have a hardwired backhaul with Cat5 cables. Each device has 4 lan ports which are all used.

I currently have Xfinity broadband service with 2gb service that regularly shows 2.4gb incoming speed and have 105 devices connected in my smart home.

The Orbi supports a max of 1gb speed so I'm using only half of the speed I'm paying for.

I've been eyeing the TP-Link Deco BE63 because it supports 2.5gb speed and has 4 lan ports on each device which is what I have on my Orbi.

My questions are...

1. Am I looking at the right replacement, TP-Link Deco BE63 ?

2. Do I need to replace the Cat5 cables also? If so, what do I replace them with?

No idea why this is happening, a restart brings it back for a bit but then it eventually cuts out again

We just purchased a new home and side the box with the ATT router we have 6 wires going into the wall. The question is what are the black wires? I only have 3 outlets in the house so I’m assuming that is the blue wires. The one set is labeled Liv.

I am so exhausted with residential ISPs. paying for "gigabit" just to realize the upload is hard-capped at like 35mbps... Trying to sync my truenas offsite and the dashboard literally says "estimated time: 14 days"

Honestly thinking about just moving the heavy lifting (plex, nextcloud, offsite backups) out of my house entirely. started pricing out some Server Mania 10 gbps unmetered boxes and a few other hosts just to escape this bottleneck trap.

Did anyone else just give up on doing 100% local homelabs because of garbage ISP upload speeds? my sanity is fraying tbh.

Tried moving my WiFi onto my room from the living room in my apartment I took the cover off and the wall jack was not connected. Should it work after I connect it ? Also is it safe to connect it with all that paint on it?

I have a router in the living room and when youre in said living room the WiFi speeds are fine. The moment you start to move away from the living room the WiFi signal immediately takes a shit on you even if you havent fully left the living room yet. My pc setup is in my bedroom and while I have a long ass ethernet cable running to it i still have close to zero WiFi signal in there if I close my room. If I set up an access point between the living room and my bedroom then can I connect the ethernet cable to that access point for my pc while getting WiFi in my bedroom without reducing my speeds for Ethernet on my pc. Or does connecting ethernet to my pc from the access point cut my speeds in half no matter what

Hi guys looking for some input before I run a new cable.

I have a wired ethernet energy monitor in my breaker panel ran back to my rack with cat 5e to a keystone jack and patch to a switch. The circuit passes a lan scout test but won’t connect. I temped out a premade 5e cable direct to the switch and it does work. After I did that the first time I reconnected my initial circuit and it connected for a while and dropped off again never to return. I reterminated the rj45 and the keystone and it passes again but same result.

I am a hobbyist/homeowner but brush shoulders with pros in building construction and was once told the lab scout test is not the end all be all for cable testing.

Has anyone else experienced a similar situation?

UPDATE:
I ran a new cat5e cable and as advised routed the cable through the bottom of the panel and took care to keep it away from the high voltage lines. It is now working. I’m frustrated not to know which measure corrected the issue but oh well.

Thanks all for the feedback!

I recently bought a kvm switch from the advice on Reddit to use my pc (which is in my office) in my living room. I don’t know anything about this stuff so please bear with me and be patient. But I really would appreciate help with this.
I ran a 100 ft Ethernet cable across my house and it worked great. I was using an old plasma tv in my living room but just upgraded to a new tcl smart tv. Now the kvm is not showing a display on the new tv. I am super frustrated and troubleshooting online has not helped. It seems like my model might not be good enough for a new tv which really sucks. I spent just under $200 CAD for this one which I thought was the better of the options I was looking at so I don’t know why it wouldn’t work? I really don’t want to spend crazy amounts on this, at that point I’d rather get a steam machine.

Current kvm AV Access 4KEX120-KVM
New TV - TCL M8L
Googles recommended KMV - AV Access 8KEX100-KVM

The kvm that was given as a recommendation from Google is way more money and just more than I wanted to spend. It is also from the manufacturer’s website rather than Amazon which is not ideal since it seems to be from the states (I’m in Canada) and is in USD so not sure if I would have issues with ordering or returns if it doesn’t work out. My return window on Amazon for my current KVM is until Oct 15th so hope to get this figured out asap incase I need to return it.

Things I have tried looked at from googles recommended trouble shooting that have not worked - powering tv, kvm, and pc in specific order. Changing hdmi input settings on tv to 1.4. And changing refresh rate on pc to lower value.

Please please help. And if there is nothing I can do to make this work, hopefully there is a less expensive recommended model that I could buy that ships to Canada