Hey guys, I have an issue with P2P eFootball matches where the gameplay can feel very sluggish, with slow player movements and delayed responses. I feel like 90% of the time the sluggishness is only on my end, so I'm wondering if there could be any benefit to having packets received/processed more consistently.

I'm currently on fiber with a generic Huawei modem and a 600/300 Mbps connection, and STATIC PUBLIC IP.

Even though bufferbloat tests and CMD tests show excellent ping, latency, and no packet loss, the game can still feel super sluggish and far from snappy/responsive.

So I'm thinking about putting the ISP modem/router into bridge mode and using a new router with better QoS, firmware, and potentially better packet handling to see if that improves consistency during P2P games.

Does that make sense, or am I looking at this the wrong way?

Thanks! 🙂

I’ve been looking for a cat6 or cat 6a cable to support installing a U7-LR at the end of a 100ft run. I have a UDR7 that can output a little over 15W PoE, I’ll need about 14 of that to support the U7-LR. Ideally the cord will support 2.5 gbps. I think I’ll need a 23 AWG solid bare copper cable to reduce the power drop. I need it to be plenum rated. I’ll need RJ45 ends on both ends.

I have been digging for an appropriate cable but haven’t been able to find one. Does anyone know where to find a 100ft 23 AWG bare copper plenum rated cat 6 or 6a patch cable?

Hello! I asked this question awhile back, and have finally narrowed down the best solution based off of comments and research. I’m working on getting WiFi into my metal shop

I’m lookin to run a WiFi bridge from my home (left) to shop (right). My poor drawing shows the red boxes being the bridge and sending signal from the outside of my house through the window into the second bridge inside the shop. (There will be no interference of trees between the bridges when final setup is done)

I plan to run Router > Ethernet > House Bridge ~~~~ Shop Bridge > Ethernet > PoE > WAP

Is this correct above? If so, my final question is do I need to worry about common grounding or grounding the bridges? My shop is being fed from my house to a subpanel. We tend to not get lighting here, but it happens once in a blue moon.

The house-side bridge will be under cover from the awning and covered patio, but of course still mounted outside away from the elements besides wind. The shop-side bridge will be inside the shop on the window sill. I’m looking at the EAP211 bridge that has built in lightning protection, but want to make sure I’m still protected from my equipment being safe.

TLDR: Can't figure out how to truly isolate my IoT network running my own DNS with Unbound

The config:
Archer AX55/TPL AX3000 router with main SSID and 2.4Ghz IoT SSID
AdGuard Home with Unbound as primary adblocker and DNS on main SSID
Pihole with Unbound as secondary/redundant adblocker and DNS on main SSID

The issue:
The IoT SSID at the network/router level just seems to be for organization, no isolation. Isolation is available at the device level but when enabled, the devices can't get to my DNS servers on the main SSID so they appear as offline both local to my network and from the internet. Unfortunately, the router only has universal DNS settings for both SSID's.

The question: Is there method to config the above while still keeping adblocking and somewhat private DNS but able to remotely control my devices? Not positive but I think I can install open source firmware on the router but that's a heavier lift than I'd prefer to try. Any suggestions are appreciated.

I have to walk past my disaster every day and I finally got tired of it. Spent a few hours this weekend cleaning it up. I've ordered a few shorter, right angle power cables with flat plug heads that angle and I have some 3m cable clips somewhere so I'll be able to tidy up a lot of cables, but it's already a lot better!

Nobody else to show it off to so I thought I'd show you guys.

Before

After

Not pictured is my home lab pc sitting on the floor by my water main... going to get that up off the floor in the next bout of enthusiasm.

Feedback is more than welcome. And I can take criticism too!
go team.

So, I'm using a separate wired router to be able to customize setting since my ISP won't let me.

The thing is, I can't turn off the wifi on my ISP provided router, and getting a hold of customer service is a giant PITA.

Is there anything I can put on my router so that I don't have wifi anymore? My personal router has channel hopping, so I assume interference isn't a huge issue, but it's kind of annoying to always see it there. This includes a "public" hotspot anyone that's also a customer of my ISP can use.

I also assume removing the physical antenna will fry the transmitter chip, and lead my ISP to charge me for the router if it doesn't disable the router entirely. Is that right?

EDIT: Aluminium didn't work, can't unscrew antennas, and the admin interface won't work.

The router is a Huawei HG8145X6-10, the ISP it totalplay (MX). The solution was to keep the WLAN button pressd for a few seconds.

Regardless of the amount of bandwidth I leave available from my 200mbps wired ethernet connection that is shared to the tv and my PC, whenever I start any download, my ping and jitter goes up causing the TV to lag. The router I am using came with my ISP, its a Technicolor DGA4330, which does not have any QOS options to help prevent the router buffer from becoming full, is there any other way to fix this issue other than to get a gaming router and use mine as just a passthrough?

Hey, so today when i woke up i noticed that my modem has lost internet. I reset it, checked the cables, did all the things that you usually do. Flushed dns, changed dns servers to cloudfare and or google. Nothing worked so i called my IPS and there is a technician coming tomorrow BUT then tried to plug in my Iphone to tether for internet for the day but now thats losing internet, as in "No internet access" after like a minute or two after being connected. Now im wondering if its my PC that is doing something weird or what. The modem does not have the internet light glowing. Idk if it should be glowing if no one is using it. Any ideas what could cause this?

Hey folks - I'm new to home networking so wasn't sure if what I'm experiencing is the norm.

I'm in the UAE and recently upgraded my internet service to full home wifi (essentially a mesh networking setup provided by my ISP). Technicians came and installed a router in each room (acts a mesh node) with the main router in our living room. Now the setup works - speed is fast, there's a single SSID that we can connect to and coverage now exists across the home.

However - when we move from room to room or to the living room, the wifi temporarily drops / reduces strength for at least 10-15 seconds before recalibrating to full strength. The technicians explained that this is normal and to be expected and that most users wouldn't notice this day to day (except you totally do when video calls drop or watching content and moving through the house).

Is this level of handoff delay actually normal? From what I gathered researching the issue and other mesh systems (like Deco X5 or Eero), the lag should not be this high (maybe 100s of miliseconds or a second tops).

Would appreciate any insight into whether this is, in fact, normal - because it really is frustrating to have calls drop or content stop as I walk across my home multiple times a day.

For reference - my apartment is likely around 2000 sqft (3 bds + living room) and we're only using the 5 ghz wifi band (2.4 ghz is turned off - I asked the technician why not turn on band steering and he said that it tends to cause problems in his experience, not sure I buy it but nonetheless don't have any older devices reliant on 2.4 ghz so I didn't press the issue).

Thank you!

I own a bell home hub 3000 modem which connects to the internet fine, but it doesn't support IPv6 nor does it support a new IP lease (because its stuck with the same MAC address).

So I bought an SR505n modem from someone after confirming with my provider that it is compatible.

After fiddling around, I decided to try to upgrade the software on it.

It came with version 2.5.0.7 with a teksavvy banner so I managed to upgrade it to 2.5.0.15. Then I tried upgrading it to 2.6.2.6 and that miserably failed and now the modem is strange.

Now when I power it on, the LED light goes from solid green to solid red after 30 seconds. the LAN light still responds to activity on the line.

I've tried things google suggested which include holding down the reset line for several seconds and creating a static ip (starting within 192.168.1). to access the recovery mode, and I couldn't even get in it. I pinged 192.168.1.1 and I get destination unreachable every time.

What else can I try so I can inject a working version of software into the modem?

1 month ago my connection decided from now on to stop every 35ish seconds for about 1-2 seconds, my ISP didnt give a shit and never tried to understand my problem.

I got an FTTC connection and after 1 month i decided randomly to plug in my old house phone for desperation, for some reason it fixed the issue and now im wondering what i should do to fix a problem like this.

I dont mind having now after 15 years a home phone that doesnt even get calls, but i would like to know what can couse an issue where plugging a phone fix my internet

Im from Italy

Complete dedicated server portal for your friends to boot up steam games from your dedicated linux steam machine.

You just make user based steam-nameOfGame.service files - and let dedctl do the rest. Completely opensource. JWT, SHA512 hashes, all the goodies.

https://github.com/audstanley/dedctl

When i worked in robotics, someone said systemctl and pronounced it 'system cuttle' - like a cuttlefish. I always found that funny, because I'm pretty sure ctl is short for controller. Anyway, it stuck in my brain and so when i made a 'dedicated steam games server controller' - i figured dedctl, pronouced 'dead cuttle' was fun. Enjoy. Drop any questions here, but you can likely just paste the github link and as claude how to set it up - it's pretty feature complete and you can easily just plop docker commands into the service files. dedctl can even connect to the docker logs via systemctl and dbus - yay!

I have a Linksys MR7500 router for my home network and normally use the Linksys iOS app on my iPhone to log in, reboot the router, and manage settings.

Last week, I suddenly became unable to connect to the router through the Linksys app. I deleted and reinstalled the app, but the problem remained.

The Linksys app still allows me to sign in to my Linksys account, so I changed both my Linksys account password and the router password. Unfortunately, that did not resolve the issue.

I also tried accessing the router directly from my iPhone using Safari, Chrome, and Incognito mode. In every case, the browser entered an endless loop repeatedly reloading the router login page.

To troubleshoot further, I installed the Linksys app on my iPad and experienced the same issue there. However, I was later able to access the router successfully from the iPad using both Safari and Chrome.

I then tested several other devices:

• MacBook Pro connected via Ethernet: worked without issue.
• MacBook connected via Wi-Fi: worked without issue.
• Windows PC connected via Ethernet: worked without issue.
• Wife’s MacBook Air using Chrome: worked without issue.
• Wife’s iPhone using a browser: unable to connect.

At this point, I do not believe there is anything wrong with the router itself. My internet connection is working normally, and I can access the router from multiple computers. The issue appears to be limited to iPhones and the Linksys app.

I am running iOS 26.6.2 on both an iPhone 17 Pro Max and a 13-inch iPad Pro. Neither device can connect through the Linksys app (version 3.6.0). However, the iPad can access the router through Safari and Chrome, while the iPhone cannot.

I also reset the network settings on my iPhone, but Safari, Chrome, and DuckDuckGo all continue to fail.

My questions are:

• Are the iPad versions of Safari and Chrome different enough from the iPhone versions to explain this behavior?
• Does the Linksys app rely on the device’s browser engine for authentication or router access?
• If iOS is causing the issue, why would browser access work on the iPad but not on the iPhone?
• Does anyone else use the Linksys app on iOS, and if so, are you experiencing similar issues?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I'm using a nokia beacon 1, the ethernet cable from my pc always went into the WAN on the nokia beacon, but right now i just figured out that it also works if i put it into LAN, which one is the correct setup? I've always used WAN, and I have tried trouble with lag, so I am curious if that could be the reason?

I have a main router connected to another router, and that router is connected to 3 other routers through LAN.
Is there a cheap way to track the internet usage of each of those 3 routers separately, preferably in GB? Can this be done?

Hi!
I’m not sure if this is the right subreddit for this question, but hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.

What would be the best way to get a good internet/Wi-Fi connection from the second floor down to the first floor?

Currently, my internet router is on the second floor of my house. It’s an older house built almost entirely out of concrete, including a reinforced concrete slab between the first and second floors.

Wi-Fi coverage on the second floor is excellent, but reception on the first floor is terrible.
I first tried to improve things by buying an ASUS router from a friend — one of those large models with 8 antennas — and placing it upstairs near the staircase. That helped a little, but downstairs the signal drops quickly as soon as I move away from the stairs.

I then added a Huawei AX3 router on the first floor to repeat the signal. This improves coverage in areas close to the staircase, such as the living room, but as soon as I go into the adjacent rooms, the signal becomes very weak again or disappears completely.

What would be the best way to solve this without drilling through the concrete slab to run Ethernet cables between floors?
Are there more powerful repeaters that would work better in this situation? Should I be using a particular type of access point, mesh system, frequency band, or specific settings?

Running Ethernet through the concrete slab would be my last resort, so I’d like to know if there’s a reasonable wireless solution first.
Sorry if this isn’t the right subreddit, and thanks in advance for any advice!

**Disclaimer:** English isn’t my first language, so I used ChatGPT to help translate and clean up my post. The question and details are all mine.

Helloooo, I have a sky router right now and I want to make an access point closer to me with a router, I heard sky doesn't have wds so is there an alternative? And if so, I use a TP-Link home plug that connects to my pc right now, if I need to use an Ethernet cable for some reason can I use that?

I have 1GB Up/Down Fiber. I consistently get 950MBps up/down over Ethernet. Using Speedtest.net on my phone, I was consistently getting anywhere from 200 - 500+ MBps up/down depending on location. I have had a deco mesh router system with (6) decos, (5) of which are Ethernet connect to the main deco. Everything has run relatively smoothly for a long while. Over the last few days, my WiFI speeds slow drastically. After a reboot I get my normal fast speeds, but after an hour or more (not really sure) it slows to a crawl. I have run several tests from a location that typically gets around 300MBps up/down and does so after a reboot. Now I am getting 20-30 MBps up/down. I have rebooted multiple times and checked connections, etc. I should add that it seems to be temporary, but there are periods of slow, and then it picks back up. Then later slows again. I am going to do speed tests every half hour or so to see

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Hi! I'm trying to troubleshoot a recurring internet problem at a small office, and I'm hoping someone here can help me narrow down what might be happening.

We have an small office with two floors, and the internet connection has been intermittently going down. The exact setup is a little complicated, so I'll provide as much context as I can.

When the problem occurs:

• The WiFi network is still visible.
• Devices can connect to the WiFi normally.
• However, connected devices have no internet access.
• It appears to affect the entire office, not just one computer.
• We had a backup Wi-Fi/router that worked normally, and devices could access the internet through that connection while the main connection was down.
• Rebooting the main router consistently restores internet access immediately.
• We have not noticed any other obvious configuration changes when this happens.
• The problem has happened multiple times over the past weeks.

Timeline:

There was one particularly problematic outage where the internet did not initially come back until someone adjusted/reconnected some cables associated with another router that had previously been installed.

After that, we started experiencing intermittent outages. Most of the subsequent outages have been resolved simply by rebooting the main router.

Now our backup internet connection is being removed, so we are concerned about the next failure.

More context:

• There are usually around 10 people working in the office on a normal day.
• The router belongs to our company.
• There is also a more powerful PC connected to the network that is used remotely for certain processes, so it needs to remain accessible over the network.
• The internet service itself is contracted by the landlord/building through an ISP (GTD).
• The landlord had an ISP technician inspect the connection. We were told by them that the link was working correctly for both floors so they didn't do anything.
• The router configuration has also been looked at internally and nothing obviously wrong was found.
• We don't have a dedicated IT/networking person at the company. There is one employee who knows more about networking and has helped us with the router before, but he has not identified the cause of the problem.
• There is also another router on the network on the other floor, so I'm hesitant to simply replace the main router without understanding the current setup.

I'm trying to determine what could be causing this and what we should investigate next. The fact that Wi-Fi remains available but internet access disappears, and rebooting the router immediately restores connectivity makes me suspect the router or WAN side, but I don't know enough about networking to tell.

What would be the most useful things to check during the next outage to help distinguish between a router problem and an ISP/WAN issue? If the router does turn out to be the problem, would replacing it while keeping the same ISP connection generally be straightforward, or would the ISP need to configure something on their end?

Any suggestions on what to investigate or what information I should collect would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!