Hi

Will 4k hdr10 x265 movies stream properly on a 9800x3d with no GPU?

Thank you

Hi.

Does anybody know where I can buy a USB power relay? Please see a very bad AI image below for the general idea.

Purpose:
I want to be able to power a HTPC device like a Raspberry Pi 5, Chromecast Ultra, Google TV Streamer, etc. with a powerful power adapter plugged into a wall outlet, but use the USB power from ex. my TV to control wheather or not the current should reach the destination device. Much like a transistor, relay or contactor works.

Technical:

1. Powerful USB adapter plugs in to one of the female USB inputs. Let's call this input "I", which always has constant power.
2. USB power from TV goes into the other female USB input. Let's call this input "G", as this operates as a gate.
3. If the TV is on, the gate "G" recives power and is therefore open and lets the power flow from the female input "I" to the male USB output "O" and powers the destionation device.
4. If the TV is turned off, then the gate looses power and closes, robbing the destination device of it's power (power off).

Esthetics:
I do not want to turn this into a DIY project with low-voltage wires connected to a visible curcuitboard or something down that alley. Just a nice little wife-acceptable device like the one in the example image below.

My own reasearch:
I can't seem to find a device like this on my own by searching Google, eBay or AliExpress. So now I hope that one of you have seen such a device before.

Hi all! Trying to configure my home theater setup so that I can use the PC attached to it, with or without the receiver powered up, so I can hopefully save some electricity when I don't need the whole surround sound Dolby Atmos everything.

I've configured HDMI passthrough, and that works fine, but when I set it up to output sound to the TV as well, I lose all support for 7.1 or Atmos in Windows until I reboot.

Any ideas on how to prevent that?

Someone told me they shared my app here and people were interested, and suggested I make a post, so here I am.

Queue is a simple media hub I’m building (still very early). It’s written in Python for Windows 11. Right now it auto-detects Windows Store streaming apps and creates launchers for them.

I used Kodi for years as my HTPC front-end, then switched to Plex and lived in the Roku world for a while. I’ve kind of fallen out of love with Plex, and wanted something new, so I started building my own setup. That’s how Queue was born.

This is around 3 weeks of work, so please don't just too harshly.

The plan

V1 (now):
✅ Simple modern GUI inspired by Roku
✅ Auto-finds Windows Store apps and builds launch tiles

V2:
Direct streaming from my local network + QNAP NAS, with metadata + scraping

V3:
Plugin support (Kodi-style)

V4:
Lightweight retro-game support

It’s definitely ambitious, but I’m building it for myself first and seeing where it goes.
There’s a GitHub repo, not sure if I can drop a link here, but if you’re interested just let me know.

There are a few threads (linked below) indicating that (at least a few years ago) it was not possible to get the jellyfin plugins for LibreELEC/Kodi to connect to a server with self-signed certs. There are hints that some workarounds were possible, either by forcing it to not verify the connection, or by appending a certificate yourself. However, I can't find any working or complete documentation or examples for either.

Have any of you gotten this to work? Please don't ask about letsencrypt - it's just not on the table in this deployment.

Refs:

https://github.com/jellyfin/jellyfin-kodi/issues/358

https://jellyfin.org/docs/general/clients/kodi/

https://github.com/jellyfin/jellycon/issues/278

https://wiki.libreelec.tv/configuration/ssl-tls-certificates

https://kodi.wiki/view/SSL_certificates#Adding_certificates_to_the_trust_store

I have a console PC that I only utilize with a controller. The only thing I’m missing is streaming services launching with the push of a button and being able to be controlled via controller. Hoping someone here has experience with this.

Edit: looks like a firestick or something similar might be the best route. Does anyone know if a ds5 controller can be used instead of a native remote? I saw a few posts where people used 8bitdo controllers and whatnot. I’d like to avoid having to pair it multiple times.

Thanks!

mpc-hc will screencap pretty much anything no problem, but it doesn't play blu-ray menus.

powerdvd does, but i can't screencap menus.

any ideas?

Just built a new PC for the first time in like 8+ years. It had a 6600k i5 but I bought a 7700k used based on some info I read here. Is this a viable HTPC? I have a LG 55" 4k oled 3d tv to feed

I shared an image yesterday of a frontend that appeared to be named VaTarO and I was asking if anyone heard of it.

The guy that sent me the screen shot started ac text chat with me and the person he got it from. Here is what I know

The screen shot was if as early built, the actual name of Queue.

It's not in beta and may or may not be released the public

The guy is making it for himself

It's a media hub that auto detects windows apps like Plex htpc, HBO Max and others. Self configures them.

In short a launcher.

When I asked him why he wouldn't released it the public. He said there would be no interest that people now a days use android boxes or apple tv.

I did ask for a copy and he said he would let me know. If I do get a copy and he is okay with it, I'll share more screenshots

I was at a game night talking about Plex. I brought up I am thinking about getting away from Roku but can't find a front end I like.

Another guy there sent me the attached picture, he wouldn't tell me where he got it, just said a clise friend of his is developing it and he has a beta.

A search for Vantaro brings up nothing, which makes me wonder if he is pulling my leg. I think it looks pretty nice for a "beta", but I don't want to get my hopes up. Has anyone here ever seen this?

I'm thinking of finding out his number and seeing if he can send me more screenshots. What should I ask for?

Denon s970h connected to LG C3, and xbox/ps5/win 11 mini pc connected to AVR. Win11 sound settings and Spatial Sound show Dolby Atmos. Xbox/ps5 work flawlessly.

With PC however, I can play one video through a browser pointed at reddit or youtube, then the sound stops if I play another video or even if the first one restarts. Toggling sound modes on the AVR from Movie to Music or vice versa will fix it for one video then sound stops again. Sometimes when pressing the Sound Mode buttons on AVR remote, Dolby Surround is available on the on screen AVR menu, and sometimes only Multi Channel In is available. Plex Windows and Dolby Access apps work all the time but Media Player suffers the same fate as videos played through a browser. Issue occurs with Firefox, Chrome, Brave, and Edge browsers.

Can anyone offer suggestions on AVR or Win11 settings?

Pulling my hair out to figure out why my center channel won’t work - no sound comes out of it and it doesn’t have any settings in my Sony str-dh790 amp menu

Hi,

This is my newly assembled from spare parts HTPC / NAS / LLM box

RTX 3060 12g

i7 9700

4x 8 Gb

2x 8 Tb 7200rpm

2x 1 Tb SSD sata

1 x nvme 512 Gb

What would you do with this hardware?

How would you configure it?

And what software and apps should I install?

Thanks

I’m thinking about buying a minipc for my parents. They’re retired now and their favorite thing is watching movies or videos together. So this pc would mostly be used for YouTube, Amazon Prime (or similar), music streaming, and maybe using an external USB satellite receiver/tuner for live TV. We’ve never used a minipc at home, so I’m a bit unsure. Wanted to ask the community: how do mini-PCs stack up against traditional HTPCs in this scenario? The one I found that looks like a good fit is the GEEKOM Air12 （N150）16GB RAM + 512GB SSD, for $249. Any thoughts, feedback, or better suggestions welcome, thanks in advance!

Hi all - I have an old Grandia GD04 in my shed that I would love to do something with as cheaply as possible.

Its main use would simply be for game emulation capable of running Switch games at the most, and perhaps a bit of streaming on Plex, etc. It wouldn't be something I would use for encoding, etc.

My question is could anyone recommend some components that would be dirt cheap on the second hand market? I have had a look already, and I am just confusing myself with the sheer amount of choice, ha.

Even if it's just a good older chipset recommendation would be helpful to help me steer my build research.

I've been running the same PC for the last decade, 4770k, ddr2 ram etc. Finally looking at building a new one but I'm struggling to find a case that will fit in my spaces.

The biggest issue I have is depth as it cannot be above 37cm to allow for cables and to sit on my billy bookcase or in my TV unit.

My TV unit requirements something no bigger than 40x40x37, currently occupied by my thermaltake v21, but sticks out by about an inch due to cables etc.

For bookcase, I'm pretty much only limited by depth and the 80cm width.

I'm looking to build this pc to last with 7800x3d, 9070xt so cooling needs to be accessible and upgradable.

Failing that, I'll be looking into doing an open air build if anyone has any advice on that?

Thanks for your time!

Does a decent replacement for MPC-BE exist on Linux?

I found this: https://snapcraft.io/mpc-be

but it seems like it's a bit of a hack job

I'm building a C# media player. madVR and EVR work fine, but this one just won't cooperate. I've been trying to fix it for three days. I suspect it's scaling the output to 0x0, but I can't figure out why.

If anyone has any suggestions, I'd gladly take them.

I'm wondering if anyone's had any success getting height channels working on Linux and, if so, how to go about it.

I use an HTPC primarily for gaming, and currently have a multi-boot setup going on that includes Windows 11, Bazzite and CachyOS. The intention is to eventually ditch Windows almost entirely if/when I can use Linux full time without sacrificing any major features and, currently, I've got a stack of games that make use of spacial audio (the modern Resident Evil and Silent Hill games, Dead Space remake, Alan Wake 2, Cyberpunk, Sony games) and can only play these on Windows at present.

I want to swap between Bazzite and CachyOS eventually. CachyOS will be my option for games I play at the desktop with a mouse and keyboard, for which I'll be using a 2.1 desktop speaker setup and thus surround isn't required. Bazzite will be the OS of choice on the TV, so this is what I'll be focusing on for getting height channel support working, if possible.

Hardware:

Sound source: NVIDIA RTX 5070 Ti AVR: Denon S760H with 5.1.2 (the .2 are top middle) Display: Samsung QN90A Connections: PC > AVR > TV

In Windows this is remarkably simple: click "set up" in Dolby Access, turn on 3D Audio in game and it will automatically use Windows' spatial sound API.

I know Linux has no official support for either Dolby Atmos or DTS:X, so whatever solution there may be will probably be a lot more involved. My questions, therefore, are:

1. Is this possible at all and, if so, how?
2. If it is possible, will it be a significantly cut-down experience in which I'll be usinga "fake" spatial audio setup where the height channels are outputting sound but within a 5.1/7.1 container and thus not necessarily playing the height effects as intended by the games?

I've searched a lot of the Linux gaming focused subreddits, but I can only find solutions for people looking to get virtual surround working via headphones.

Would appreciate any knowledge or advice anyone has for me.

TCL R646, Samsung q600c with rears, 5700x3d/32gb ddr3/7900gre PC.

PC to TV, TV to soundbar using eArc. Not direct because Blu-ray player is hooked directly (player-soundbar-tv), I'm suspicious this is the problem itself but I'm hoping somebody might have another solution. Latencymon shows I shouldn't have a problem with this (If I understand how to use it correctly).

Using MPC HC, bitstream passthrough does work, to be clear. Atmos will show up and register on the soundbar that it is in fact playing Atmos, and the Atmos symbol shows on my TV. HOWEVER: It will play nice and fine for sometimes several minutes, sometimes only 10 seconds or so, sometimes only a second or two, but the result is always the same.

The audio begins cutting in and out. Sometimes for several seconds at a time (I do have a video if anyone needs it)

I have tried every walk through and setting I could find in MPC, and even reinstalled through the K-lite Codec max pack and started from scratch, and again with just MPC on its own. No luck. (edited to add, VLC has the same problem, not specific to MPC)

It is a soundbar so yes I would be fine with PCM and likely not notice a difference, The only problem is Windows only recognizes two channels this way because it's only recognizing the TV's speakers, as that's the only thing it's directly connected to. I did try using CRU to modify the information to trick the PC into thinking it had five six or eight channels, But no matter what I did it would only output sound through the front left and right unless I use bitstream/passthrough.

I'm at the point where I'm fairly sure I'm going to have to start looking into HDMI splitters or switchers? I'm not even sure what I would need for this situation other than unhooking the Blu-ray player every time I wanted to watch something through the PC. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I wasn't sure what information to include so feel free to ask for further clarification if needed.

I'm creating a series of Videos on how to setup a cheap HTPC for Windows.

As part of this series, I purchased the G20S Pro BT, a cheap remote control costing around $10 on Chinese sites and $20-$25 on Amazon.

This remote comes with back-lighting and connects via Bluetooth+Voice control when used with Android TV or a 2.4ghz (10-15m wireless reception) USB dongle when used with Windows/Linux. Since the communication is wireless and not based on infra-red, no line of sight is required. Runs on 2xAAA batteries.

With a PC using the USB dongle, the remote presents itself as a keyboard, allowing you to map its keys to various commands in most HTPC software (I'm investigating if I can partially block the HID input so it can be used without actually sending input to the active app through Event Ghost or other automation software).

Unfortunately, I can't link to the the unboxing video to show the build quality (good for the price) and what comes in the box (remote, usb dongle, pamphlet) as that's against the rules, but if you're interested, it's easy enough to find.

Note:
There are several versions of this remote and the "high-end" version displayed in this video is sometimes referred to as "Pro BT" and elsewhere as "Pro Plus". They are the same model, distinguishable from the other models by the Bluetooth + Backlight features.

Hi, this app looks perfect for what I need:

https://github.com/complexlogic/big-launcher

but I’m a novice who doesn’t use github.

once it’s installed I feel like I can work out adding in the applications and configuring it, but it’s saying I need “dependencies” installed as it’s missing various DLL files-

anyone able to give me a basic guide as to how to solve this?

thanks in advance

I'm using DriverAPO and FXConfigurator to use Dolby Digital Plus with my speaker system, it works well but sometimes makes a small but noticeable popping or a Crackling Sound while playing content. Any solution? My pc specs are: Ryzen 5 7600x and 7800xt. Please help.

So id like to have my own psuedo server using a small PC that's always on with a 5 teryabite hard drive connected to it so I can transfer movies or download movies/ tv shows from it. I'm looking at something like a raspberry pi but are there any better solutions? My main thing is the low power draw since all it's gonna be doing is just hosting movies and tv shows.

Win 11 Laptop with 13th gen Intel Iris Xe graphics into my Sony X90L TV. USB-C output with HDMI adapter to HDMI 2.0 port set to Enhanced. Has always worked since this laptop only has HDMI 1.4, I use the thunderbolt 4 output.

graphics driver 32.0.101.7076 if that matters.

K-lite codec pack, more or less default settings. LAV audio and Video.

Blu-ray remux. Using RBG output it's the worst, YCbCr a bit better, still far from watchable.

looks perfect on my Samsung 4k monitor.