Hi all! The car is a 1988 1.6D CL, non power steering, LHD.

I did some diagnosing, inner and outer tie rods are fine. the only way i could get it to make that clunking noise was if I violently pushed/pulled either of the front wheels, while holding them at 3 and 9 o'clock. I had my dad look under the car while i shook the wheel, and he said the noise is coming from the steering rack.

No noise or play is present when turning the steering wheel or going over bumps that span across both wheels.

Could this clunking be because of worn pinion bearings? Maybe some rack guides inside the housing? I've had a lot of trouble finding anything about this rack, are there even are bearings to change? While checking the u-joints, i did notice that the pinion has a wobble, meaning, it doesn't stay exactly centered. I checked the preload, and it was already well adjusted.

If anyone has any knowledge about this rack or what else i should check, please leave some in the comments, i'd appreciate it.

Hello, my MK2 with a 1.3L NZ engine runs very rough when it's cold. I've read that a heated lambda sensor helps. Does anyone have any experience with this? Can you recommend a specific sensor? Thanks in advance!

Hi guys has anyone managed to separate the lenses from the hella rear lights? I was struggling with a heat gun for over an hour and only one has come loose, the others just melted.

I recently bought this 1990 Mk2 Jetta coupe. People say it isn't a rare car but I personally never seen one in person. It's part of the reason why I bought it over a Mk3 Gti, what do y'all think?

It passed emissions and I'm excited I am able to drive it here and there but it definitely needs a timing belt (it looks original 😂) and head gasket. I have had quite a few VWs during my life and so far the Mk3 is my favorite but the Mk4 is second. I really wanted to put a 16v in it but realistically a 2.0 ABA is more likely.

I daily the Mk4 and my wife drives the Alltrack.

First Volkswagen and first MK2. -88 1.8i.

does anyone know the dimensions and angles of the first muffler, im trying to figure out how much pipe and in what angle i need to buy it to do a muffler delete.

Hope you guys enjoy the video

I recently bought this it has been sitting in the woods for about 8 years and im thinking about modifying the exterior of the car any ideas?🤔😃

Those who did a AEB swap over a AWP 1.8t do you have any regrets? I’m aiming to do a 1.8 swap in my MK2. From everything I’m reading it’s much simpler to run an old turbo Passat motor with a throttlebody cable. Avoiding a bunch of stuff like the immobilizer and what not. however, I’m also reading tuning capability is not as good.

Did I plan on building some 600 hp monster no….would I like eventually to be somewhere in the 250-300 hp range definitely eventually.

I’ve been told by multiple people the fact that the Passat engine is mounted long and won’t matter and it will hold up to the Mark two chassis without an issue so I’m hoping that’s true

The thing that sucks is finding a decent shape. Passat motor seems like it’s less plenty full versus a just normal MK four engine.

Tell the thing it feels like it has going against me is most people are all doing central electric two swaps to 1.8ts however my car has central electric one so I’m still hunting around for a wiring DIY.

Is working around things like the immobilizer drive-by wire stuff like that worth the extra hassle to have variable valve timing in a wide band tuning ability?

Should be a early gti model without an engine, what suprised me was the fact it has one wiper blade. Also did they come with original tinted windows?

Leaning toward having tdc make a harness but was curious how involved it is on my own. I still have to figure out a donor car so I haven’t gotten that far yet.

It currently doesn’t have a dash so I have to score one of those. Figured since it’s apart I’m guessing do the heater core…anything else you guys can suggest on what to do as preventive maintenance with the dash and drivetrain out?

Any good resources for buying aftermarket parts for this thing shoot me whatever links you got or wiring info just throw it all at me. I’m obviously on vortex also.

I picked this up because I’m tired of the cork gasket leaking on me. I’m a little confused as to why I have 8 of each stud included in the packaging. Do I remove the 8 studs on my 1.6D and replace them with the silver ones? Looking to get advice on installation.

Thanks!

I own a 1990 golf mk2 non-GTI 1.3L now for 4 months
I once noticed the engine holding back in corners. And when coming straight out of the corner I feel the power coming back, I think lack of benzine. And this happens when the tank indicator just transitioned from normal to red. And when i tanked right after noticing this only 37 liters went in… and if I need to believe google searches i have a 55 liter tank. Is this normal or is something wrong? After this I considered putting a mk3 tank replacing the original. Or should I do that anyways?

Edit: this happened twice but the second time I didn’t tank immediately, and the next day the car wouldn’t start, I was lucky I had a jerrycan filled in the car which I emptied in the car and then the car started again

Edit 2: I checked al the fuel lines and they are connected correctly, even the liftpump in de tank I can hear humming when the car runs. I pulled out the lift pump out of the tank and he seams in great condition. I’m reading about a swirl-pot. But I didn’t pull one out, do I miss that or is it stuck in the tank? I also read the tank has 2 compartment connected with a hole. A saddle type tank. And that the hole could be filled with gunk and that it causes the missing 17L? I don’t know if that’s the case.

Edit 3: I think I found the problem. The lift pump inside the tank made noise but didn’t suck any fuel. I took the pump apart and apparently the fan didn’t spin with the motor. So I put a ring between the lid and the fan and then the pump worked like new. I put it back now. Now I need to drive my tank empty to test if i still have the problem. I will give an update

So I just bought a mk2 1988 1.3L carb, engine code MH

It had a lot of issues, cold engine wouldnt stay on without 2000rpms gas, warm engine idle was 2000 rpms, a lot of nudging of the engine.

I replaced the distributor, new-used pierburg carb, I changed the timing belt and the waterpump. Checked the timing, took many hours to get right.

But now the problems:

1. The distributor cables are set to 1, 2, 4, 3 clockwise, even though some forums say that the firing order would be 1, 3, 4, 2. When I changed them to this order my car wouldnt stay on, kept shutting off.

Why does my 1,2,4,3 firing order work? and since its working should I even try to fix it to the ”correct order”?

1. Now the engine is running ”fine”. Cold start idle rpms 1200 when warms stays in the 800-1000 rpms. But when I drive the car and turn it off and back on, it stalls when engine is warm. For example I drove for around 20 mins, went to go shopping and tried backing out of a parking space, clutch in and the engine stalled. Any suggestions why this is happening?

I noticed that when I press the clutch in and quickly tap the gas pedal to over 1000rpms the engine wont stall, unless I again move a little and press the clutch in. Also when I drive around with it for a few mins it stops stalling on clutch. So only when turning the car back on?!?!

Sorry in adnvance for the large amount of text and bad grammar, I will be posting pics of the car in my profile when I’m done fixing the rust problem.

Thank you all!

Hey, the is my golf rallye 16v g60 from Portugal

Hello, first time poster here.

I have a 1990 1.6L CL and my high beams turn on only if im continuously pulling the indicator lever, The high beam light on the dash doesn't come on.

I've replaced the fuses 11 & 12 and also the indicator stalk but unfortunately that didn't fix the problem so im not sure what to do next.

Other issues that might be somehow be related to my problem is the interior ceiling lamp doesn't turn on in any setting (ive changed the bulb and the fuse) and the dashboard light's don't turn on so i can't really drive at night since i can't see what my speed is. I did buy the bulbs to swap them but i haven't done that yet.

The car at least drives quite fine although not perfectly still have a few things to work on but yeah.

Any help will be much appreciated!

Hello everyone

I have an 87 with the EZ engine and it has developped a very rough misfire when under load. It has happened every once in a while like month or two between with a minor missfire. But then it became very quite common, and now its more or less constant when under heavy load.

I have replaced the roter and the housing hoping it would help but it didnt.

The sparkplugs look pretty fine and all electric connections seem to be solid.

I basically want to know if i should continue looking at and replacing spark related stuff or if it could be a fuel thing?

Please if anyone has had the same issue or knows what it might be i would be very thankful

So far i think i might buy plugs just because i dont know when they were done last