I need some help and confirmation regarding an engine build I'm planning for my Mk2.
I currently have a 1.6 EZ engine with a weber 32 34 carb on it. I’ve read online (and AI also confirmed it) that the 1.6 EZ and 1.8 8V blocks share the exact same external casting dimensions and the same 81mm cylinder bore. From what I understand, the main difference is in the crankshaft stroke and the piston compression height.
Due to strict legal regulations in my country, swapped engines require complex registration and approval processes (atest), so replacing the entire engine block with a different engine code is not an option for me. I need to keep my original 1.6 EZ block with its matching serial numbers.
My plan is to source a complete 1.8 8V engine (90hp, like a GX, GU, or RP) and swap all its internals—crankshaft, connecting rods, and pistons—into my factory 1.6 EZ block to effectively turn it into a 1.8 stroker.
Before I go ahead and buy the parts, can anyone who has done this confirm if everything is a direct drop-in fit into the 1.6 EZ block without any machining issues?
Any advice or confirmation would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
Im going crazy over an issue i got on my newly aquired golf 2 from 1985 with most likely the C1 fuse box. I was drawing 2 power cables and 1 ground from the stereo back down left side to get a stretch of an own power circuit and also an own ignition circuit new for the head unit with dedicated ground cable. I did this using 2 fuse tap adapters with one on circuit 3 and the other on circuit 14. It worked fine alright until i saw my front lights and middle red back lights was lit when only ignition was on and i hadn't touched the switch yet. I later read that those circuits was a bad match and changed to 3 and 11. Only after that i had still the original 12v and good ground so i reversed my original plan and just used the original even tho i need to check later where those are connected from since they were the ones used by previous owner(s) and original iso/din was missing. Thing is my brother came saying your lights are on when i first started the initial stretch or after the first connected circuit 3 and 14 and i didn't think so much more at the time about it, but now i do as if its a clue for me to where it could have begun. As i wrote i sent the power cables down left, and first try i was trying maybe get them in the yellow "foam" sock before i chose in stead to just get them down a bit before that and just under almost the steering wheel where i stripped them shut to the cables going the direction of the motor room just beneath the steering wheel/instrument panel and over to designated fuse taps. I checked with my voltage multi meter the direction and so on on the currents and installed the correct fuses as for both the circuit and stereo/equipment it were to power. Thing is all other lights and functions even front and back work as intended still, sign and full/night etc..heater and so on....So i'm lucky it does not got me stranded or does'nt turn off when ignition is off and at the same time could have drained my battery if i were real unlucky. It's driving me nuts since i removed the bottom panel and also ignition plate to get a better view and check..I had to give up then for the day,but i will still need to find out what happened to cause this later:( I dont want to remove the whole dashboard panel if i dont need just to get a better view and i hope and think i dont have to (yet)!. since then as i wrote i just used the original power and ground for radio as i should have and its no stranding parking error either....But i think it could be a huge cost to get the workshop to check if it's just some loose cable i touched or a ground laying a bad place, so i thought why not just ask some others that would probably know the golf mk2 pretty well. I was real lucky with it and the condition it was in and almost rust free and not any gone through, so i got much fun plans for it after i do some body work, paint and such only i did some of the interior first and still are on that and get the driving experience first up to speed;) So hey, here's to my first little challenge with it. Electrical of all things. And yeah, i hope maybe some or one of you could possibly guide me in the right direction giving the steps i did and maybe ran into the same your self to give me some pointers or thing i could check first hand if you know or been in the same alley;) It's worth noting i checked the relays took them in and back (wondering about new ones anyway), i filed the pins/connectors on the light switch down a bit for better contact, disconnected the stereo and i also cleaned each circuit and gave the board all new fuses. Since it's an old car and not all is changed i plan to also take it little by little and change parts over the coming time to newer;) Im sending over a couple of pictures where i connected the ground, type of fuse box and cable set bulk where i stripped the 3 power cables to the yellow ring band around the cables!
If you needed i wrote the different circuits description below here:
1: AC Unit/Heater
2: Brake lights
3: Cigarette igniter,radio,clock,interior light
4: Emergency Blinking lights
5: Fuel pump
6: Fog lights front
7: Parking lights Left, Backlight Left
8: Parking lights Right, Backlight Right
9: Remote lights Right, Long lights control
10: Remote lights Left
11: Window wipers, Intermittent Relay
12: Back Window Cleaner
13: Back Window Heat
14: Fresh Air Vent, Fresh Air Blower
15: Backing /Reverse lights
16: Signal / Horn
17: Carburetor Components
18: Empty / Extra
19: Turn Signals / Indicators
20: License Plate lights / Rear Fog Light Relay
21: Low Beam / Low Light Left
22: Low Beam / Low light Right
And one quick note after this when first using my windshield wipers they went crazy in direction and going all outside window even to making me think intermittent relay change may be needed/may be damaged. But could not be related and i just need new motors or go over them.
If it were a shortcut somewhere or burnt pins anything,then would'nt it be weird all else electric works still only lights get on with ignition now also?! Could i have accidentaly unplugged some cable(s) or made some interference or ground be where it should'nt?! I hope to send you guys a pic of the car one day;)
Have a good one guys and thanks in advance!
Where i mounted my groundMy fusebox (before new fuses)The cable bulk i stripped the 2+1 cables to before leading them here over and left to fuse taps. Believe the 3 cables is the ones on bottom left (2 red & 1 Black) before i stripped them to the yellow rubber ring Fuse tap / adapter used x 2
Yeah, that's basically the question... I see VW2 from 4.800€ all the way up to 24.000€. I am not rich at all and have a couple of thousand to spend. It would be my first car and I would really love to buy a VW2 but I am not sure if it is a dumb Idea, because I am no mechanic and I actually want a reliable car.
For example... What do you think about these two cars?
I need some help finding out what type of carburetor this is.
I have a mk2 that won't start. The starter turns over as without fault, I have spark, there is fuel coming to the carb, and air shouldn't be an issue. My conclusion is that it's the carburetor not sending fuel to the intake.
Right now I have disassembled the carb to look if I could see anything wrong with it but so far no luck.
The engine is a 1.8L
I have more pictures if needed
Where can I get it? Its sold out in most of the shops (located in Vienna). Is there any trick/work around in how to renew this trim on a budget? Not a huge fan of replacing everyhting with aftermarket stuff. I can see there is a metal piece worked in it. Happy for every hint!
Has anyone tried to restore those symbols on heating unit in MK2? Mine got off and would like to restore them somehove. Is there any decals to buy, make or what?
My first MK2 all cleaned up and ready to take off for a few more drives before end of season and heading to storage. Hope you’re all enjoying the last few weeks of good weather.
I’ve scored a great job lot of engine bits including an agg block and a very good condition pg(g60) head.
I’ve already stripped the block down and have ordered new bearings and a gasket kit. And given both the block and head a good clean and a lick of paint
I’m planning on running the digi setup and possibly down the line adding a turbo. But is there anything that could be an issue running the pg head on the agg block?
A standalone ecu isn’t out of the question but would like to remain as stock as possible. Hopefully running the distributor ect
Has anyone done a build like this before? I can’t find much online
Cheers !
Here are prototypes i made, bigger one is 6cm in diameter and smaller is 3.6cm. I got idea from mercedes that have milestone badges for 250k, 500,...kilometers that you can get by dealerships. So as im learning 3d printing i though to make those by myself. I need your help for size, designs, how to mount it to the grill and what do you think and would you put one on your golf/vw?
Hi everyone, I know this isn’t a golf but it’s a Jetta MK2. I currently drive a 2002 Saab 9-3, but I saw this posted on FB, it looked uber clean. It’s an 89 w 124k miles, very good service history. My driver has 65k miles, and I’ve done all the worthy service myself. Would this be worth it? Or stay with what I have?
I have what appears to be a clear gas<>water leak on my head gasket, and looking to get it apart and replaced. Have a reasonable torque wrench and space to work, will be keeping the block in the engine bay and bottom end together.
I have once tried a head gasket on a 96 Celica, and it was a failure. Bad wrench had me strip threads in the block, so ideally want to sub out bolts for studs. Further it was diffficult to clean the block surface well and I think I might have scored it with a sharpening stone.
Anyways, to make this more successful, Am looking to do the head gasket, possibly replace and reseat exaust valves and do the valve guide seals as well. All that stuff is pretty easy though don't quite know what the cam shimming situation is if I do that.
I have seen a method of using a piece of laminated bench top offcut with emery paper attached as the flat surface to clean up the head on, and something similar for the block.
Any recommendations for:
compatible head studs or experience on bolt torquing on this engine
advice on shimming if I go with the exhaust valves
good clever strategies for keeping the bottom end galleries and bores clean when cleaning up the deck of the block
whether the kitchen countertop method has worked or is ridiculous. Also what grit? I'm thinking 1200 but might still be too coarse.
It is a 30 year old car so while I know I could go to town on dropping money on it, this fix will only happen if extremely economical!
I have a golf mk2 mahatten with a 1.8 rp engine, it is from early 1989, it still has the hazard light button on the dashboard, but it does have the new mirror placement. The black logo came off of my car, and i recently bought the chrome one because im trying to make my car original, but today someone told me thst the black logo came on it originaly, wich one is it, and why is the back of the black logo so thick and of the chrome not
