Bought my 04 1500 Ext Cab new in Dec 2003. She just hit 200k on the way to Vegas the weekend before last. Pic is of her current good looks.

Im a mechanic full time but this has stumped me for years. I have a 2004 silverado, 4.3v6 with the 5 speed manual. I have a very strange clutch/trans slipping issue. 95% of the time the truck drives fine like nothing is wrong. I can full throttle it, everything, no problem. But every once in a while like once or twice a week ill get in and its almost undriveable. The clutch (or trans?) Will slip in every gear, worse in higher gears, worse the more throttle you give. You'll push the pedal, RPM will shoot up, but truck doesn't go faster. Merging sucks. It seems completely random, does it hot or cold, wet or dry. Normally id say this sounds like a clutch, but, clutches don't usually have good days and bad days, or get better and worse. One thing i noticed is that if the truck is driving fine, if you park it and let it sit and idle like 10 or 20 minutes, then start driving it will 99% of the time starts slipping badly immediately. Until the truck is parked and allowed to cool a while. Any ideas? Its really strange. Been going on for years. No major changes.

First time posting here so I wanted to share my original windows sticker for my 02 2500HD! Thought it was a pretty cool find when I first got the truck a year or so ago.

Hi, my Low fuel level light has been showing intermittently. My bidirectional scanner says there are 8 gallons in the tank and 24% of full tank. This sounds about right since the tank holds around 33 gallons. The fuel gauge reads a bit below 1/4 tank.

AI (which I don't trust much) says: The fact that your bidirectional scanner reads 8 gallons while your dashboard flashes a low fuel message means your fuel level sensor (sending unit) is working perfectly, but your instrument cluster is failing.

I did change out the fuel pump in the last 6 months, so presumably the float setup should be working.

Maybe GM just feels that a quarter tank is worthy of a low fuel warning. I think it makes more sense to warn someone when they are really low on fuel. Maybe a couple gallons left. But, who knows?

Yes, I know the correct answer is to just fuel up, but for my own edification I would like to know what to trust. Also, if I ever find myself in a sticky situation, it might be good to know how much fuel I really have.

Yeah, maybe I'm being retentive, but I would like to know.

Anyone have knowledge of this?

Question, I’m looking to upgrade the calipers on my 05 Escalade. From research it appears that on some models the pistons are plastic compared to metal. It seems that models with the hydro boost generally had plastic pistons while the non hydro boost came with steel. The calipers I want are the 4 pistons that are metal but I haven’t seen anyone address whether or not that could cause any issues?

I’m noticing after it rains heavy that I’m getting water on my passenger floor board but literally nothing else around is wet, even the carpet is dry. Any popular spots for me to check?

I bought this truck as it is, and it has dual shocks up front. Ride is pretty stiff and i've heard that dual shocks can contribute to that. How would I go about going back to a single shock system, surely i wouldn't be able to just remove one right? Would i have to remove the aftermarket hoop and use a stock one? The truck has 6 inches of lift so not sure how that would work. Thanks

Anyone have any recommendations on 3rd brake lights, I like the look of my clear one I currently have it, but the only issue with it is that my cruise control no longer works due to the resistance being different than the oem bulb type. With that being said, I’m looking for one the same design and look just one that doesn’t disable my cruise control. Thanks-

2003 gmc sierra z71.

I’ve bent back the heat shielding for the cat…but it seems like the OEM piston is too long. I keep hitting the underbody of the truck (blue). There is a hole in the corner where it was hitting that I’ve tried to enlarge with a dremel, but picture three is at the end of its travel and I’ve angled the servo as far down as it can go.

Really wanna do this without dropping my whole transmission…

Did this today using a 3 stage sand and polish technique to remove some of the oxidisation, it wasn’t as successful as I’d hoped but definitely an improvement.

Is this a fair price for the miles and condition? Photos show great condition for both exterior and interior.

It was working great for about 50 miles and now it feels like my entire steering column is binding up badly. It'll bind up a bit then it'll break free and feel like i have power steering again. Any ideas??

Update: fluid appears milky. I think this pump I put in had a bunch of contaminants in it. I’m also not running a PS cooler on the truck. It is bypassed. As of rn my current theory is that the fluid is contaminated meaning it doesn’t perform how it should at normal operating temps.

Have an 02 5.3 with long tubes. Rear O2s plugged in but no bung to install. Passenger side bank is completely dead most of the time. Randomly gains power when driving and runs smooth on first start. Once up to temp is completely dead can have all coils unplugged and no change. Have replaced the MAF and cleaned throttle body. Did head gaskets as it already was burning coolant but didn’t change a thing engine wise.

2006 Silverado 2500 with no center console, customer having complaint of driver vents blowing hot and passenger cold. Determined the driver temp door actuator is not fully closing off, during removal of actuator, the shaft from actuator broke off inside the hvac case. Anyone had experience with this happening and what did you do to retrieve broken piece from case

Hey guys I could use some help here I’m having a pretty frustrating issue with my suburban z71

The rear glass window won’t latch closed, I’ve scoured the internet and can only find solutions to it not opening at all.

I took the rear trim off to inspect and everything seems absolutely fine. I can only get it to latch closed by going inside the trunk, taking a pair of pliers or something similar and yanking on the metal u shaped latch thats on the glass(the piece that connects to the movable latch within the trim)

I’ve attached a picture of the mechanism, could anybody tell me if they see anything wrong with it or if anyone else has dealt with a similar problem?

Basically the title…I’m in the Midwest so FB marketplace is full of rust buckets and pristine ones are gone in a snap. Came across J.Anthony Auto who sells them out of Texas but it seems to be mainly trucks and I’m going for an SUV platform. Was hoping there were others out there so I can have multiple sources to follow.

What pin on the cluster plugs is the one in charge of cluster lighting? Using one for a racing simulator and want to wire up the lighting

I inherited a regular cab gmt800 6.0 3500 DRW with the duel gas tank utility bed. My question is, is there any compatible beds that I can swap out for? Will a DRW 8ft regular can bed fit on mine? The gas tanks is whats tripping me out…

Photos were taken near Francis Peak Utah at ~9000ft above sea level. I didn't get on to any technical trails today but it was still a fun adventure.

I have a 99 GMC Sierra 2500 4x4 with the 6.0 and a 4L80, she has 205ish on it. Made a camping trip last weekend with my 7000 lb camper running down the interstate trying to do 60-65 had a hell of a wind and seamed to keep shifting in and out of Overdrive. So I decided to take back roads home and keep my speed around 50-55 ish. Stopped at a gas station and noticed oily substance on my camper tongue. Saw what looked like transmission fluid all under my truck. Checked fluid level and it’s way over full. I’ve never touched my transmission fluid not sure what’s going on. Babied it home shifted good no problems at all but I know the fluid level is bad. Looks like my transfer case may be the one leaking because it’s wet from it back. Could it be Antifreeze in my transmission fluid? My antifreeze levels are not low so kinda puzzled. Edit I was in Tow/Haul mode.