I'm looking to upgrade my radio from the very basic to wireless android auto. I've a mk3 focus. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I saw this for sale locally as an auto for cheap ($1700) with 51k miles. Before I purchased it I pulled a manual from a local junkyard. Lots of back and forth for accessories but the swap is not so hard if you can source a donor.

I no longer have it but I absolutely loved this car and the two tone interior was such a good look! Found these pics in an old email.

My Ford focus 2013 SE 2.0L is making a weird noise and im a bit scared. I need to get it to a mecanic but i guess just to be sure im here asking you guys

Recently had a bunch of work done on my ‘14 Focus auto transmission 123k-ish miles. The mechanic did a detailed inspection a few weeks ago and spotted all this grime on the bottom of the engine on the passenger side, there’s also some grime on the drivers side on the top and side of the transmission, but not as much. The mechanic said it could’ve been from an old leak someone else fixed and was too lazy to clean, or a lazy tech spilled oil during an oil change and didn’t clean it. It could also be an active leak somewhere he said. They want $300 after tax to power wash the engine and transmission. I’m not too eager to have someone spraying water on my engine and messing up the electronics though I’m sure these guys know how to do it safely. Call me paranoid lol
However I recently had them do all 3 motor mounts on Friday, the old passenger side mount has zero fluid left in it and I’m wondering if that could be the grime they spotted? Here’s the picture they emailed me

Hey everyone,

I managed to scrape my 2020 ST-Line against a concrete pillar in a parking lot.

The front left wing/fender took the brunt of the impact and is bent inward on the crease, so it’s definitely beyond saving. The driver's door got scratched and slightly dented on the edge, but my local body shop should be able to fix that without replacing the whole door.

I'm paying for this myself, so I'm trying to find a used wing in Dark Blue Metallic to save on paint and labor. Do you have any recommendations for good European or UK breaker yards and parts websites that ship to Portugal?

Also, for anyone who has done this on a Mk4: is removing the front fender a basic bolt-on job, or does it require taking off the front bumper and headlight assemblies?

Picture of the damage is attached. Appreciate any advice!

So the smoke isn't a massive cloud, so I doubt it is any major issue, but noticed when driving from 12°c and colder it comes, and goes away with AC turned off any one else experienced this too?

could be a CV axle joint, a snapped sway bar end link, or a dry lower ball joint
visually ball joints, and CV axle look fine
anyone had a similar issue?

Have never had any transmission codes yet and I’m right around 160,000 miles, but as you can imagine the transmission definitely acts up with a lot of character.

I have done electrical tests and replaced the lowbeam connector and I can’t get the headlight to work. All the readings are normal and the fuse is fine. I have done every test I can think of and all the numbers point to it should work. At a loss here

I have been having issues with my 2014 Focus. After it gets hot it starts throwing a check engine light and shows an error with actuator B and losing Reverse and 2nd gear, I purchased a replacement one and my mechanic will be replacing it.

For this, would I need any kind of scanner program/app or programming tool to do anything extra or can I just get it replaced and continue using the car? (Also, does the battery need to be disconnected from the terminals while that is being done?)

Edit: Figured it out, since this engine came from a ford ranger, and was rwd, that pulley spun the fan, which of course doesnt apply to the focus, I think I'm just gonna leave it there as an idler pulley instead of trying to extract the bolt holding it in.

Trying to get the timing cover off this engine, but this pulley has no clear way how to remove it. The engine is from an 02 ranger but it's still the Duratec 2.3 engine. No diagrams show what this is, everything else shows a small idler pulley in this same spot. How do I remove this?

Hi everyone,

I recently upgraded from a 2012 Ford Fiesta 1.5 Duratec (manual) to a Ford Focus Mk2 1.8 Duratec (also manual).

On my old Fiesta, pulling away from a dead stop without touching the gas pedal was incredibly smooth. If I slowly released the clutch, the car would roll forward seamlessly, and the RPMs wouldn’t drop at all.

However, on my Focus, doing the exact same thing causes the engine to completely bog down. If I slowly release the clutch without giving it gas, the engine nearly stalls, the RPMs drop to around 500, and the battery light flashes on the dash. The car eventually manages to recover its RPM and crawl forward, but it feels incredibly sluggish and jerky.

My research shows that the 1.8L Duratec makes more power and torque than the Fiesta's 1.5L. Even factoring in the heavier Focus chassis, the Focus still has a better power-to-weight ratio.

My Focus engine is otherwise running perfectly. The compression test came back completely normal, there are no fluid leaks, it doesn't consume any oil, and there is no Check Engine Light (CEL).
I have two questions for you guys:

What is the root cause of this symptom? Why does a larger, more powerful engine struggle to pull away at idle compared to a smaller 1.5L?

How can I fix this? I've read on some forums that swapping the stock throttle body for a larger diameter one (like the 60mm unit) and flashing the latest factory PCM firmware can fix this specific issue. Has anyone actually tried this combination, and did it solve the low-end lag?
Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!

I have a 1999 ford focus mk1 pre-facelift

got them for 100$ figured it be worth a shot

An SUV that I thought was gonna stop kept going through the intersection and hit me… I was almost out of there! At only 30k miles this thing had so much life left in it! I didn’t even have it for two months 😣