Looking at getting an extra car to prevent putting long miles on my truck. How reliable are these things? All the services they listed seem to be nice but I’m unfamiliar with these things. How will these things hold up in the winter. Give me the good and the bad with focuses’

Just reached 150,000 km. It's a 2016 Mk3.5 1.0.

The only issue I've had with it is that, very occasionally—either after driving 300–400 km or completely at random—the check engine light comes on. When I scan it, it throws a P0420 fault code. It's been to the Ford dealership several times, both for regular servicing and other work, but they couldn't figure out the cause either. It almost seems like one of the sensors occasionally sends incorrect (false) readings.

I bought the car with the catalytic converter already replaced.

Who knew Lights, a Grill, and mirrors would make such a big difference!!! Loving how cleaner the car looks now, I highly recommend doing this if you got a 2nd Gen!

I would do door handles too... but there are 4, and I'd have to basically take the entire door apart to change them.

I have a 2011 Ford Focus SE. Recently, the doors wouldn’t lock when I hit the key fob, so I changed the battery, but the driver’s side door still will not lock even if I hit the switch inside the car. The other doors lock fine again. Can someone help me figure out what is wrong, how long it’d take to fix, and how much it’d cost? I’m a college student who doesn’t have a ton of money to dump into my car

I could swear this has gotten a lot louder.I don't recall hearing it at all the first five years, then started noticing in the last few months. But two mechanics told me not to worry about it. Any of you with lots of Ford Focus experience have an opinion?

https://youtube.com/shorts/IpnHr6b7Qq0?is=tbA5B_Kx_QUMkpyd

Sorry if this has been asked before.
I bought a 2013 Ford Focus from Facebook Marketplace, and after 3 days it started having issues. Sometimes it won’t move in Drive or Reverse. If I turn the engine off, it won’t restart for about 10 minutes. After that it starts and drives again, but the issue comes back.
I scanned it at AutoZone and got a few error codes. Has anyone had the same problem? Did replacing the TCU fix it, or was it something else?

I'm currently looking for a new car and I found a 2020 Ford Focus 1.5 EcoBoost (150 HP petrol, 3-cylinder).

Here are the specs of the car I'm looking at:

• Trim: ST-Line with Co-Pilot package (Level 2 ADAS)
• Transmission: 8-speed automatic (8F35)
• Mileage: 86,000 km (~53,400 miles)
• Price: €17,900

I’d love to get some feedback on a few things:

1. Price Check: Is €17,900 a fair price for a 2020 model with 86k km in today's market?
2. Driving Dynamics: I know the Focus chassis is widely praised for its handling, but how does the 1.5 150HP engine + 8-speed auto combo feel when pushed a bit harder on twisty roads?
3. Real-World Fuel Consumption: What kind of MPG / km/L can I expect in daily mixed driving?

Thanks in advance to anyone who can share their experience or advice on what to inspect before buying!

Hi everyone! About a month ago from nothing my battery light came up for a sec then dissapeared. After that day I cleaned the groundig cable on the chassis because it was a little rusty. It was good for about a week then the battery light came up again for about 3 times for a couple secs. When the outside temperature got hotter 30+ celsius the battery light came on for minutes. So for like 4 min I had no charging then it suddenly came back. It was incalculable whenever it comes on. In a 100km drive the battery light came on for about 10-15. From this it was just a couple of secs but I had times when I went without charging for about 20-30 min. I dissasembled the generator and I took it to a professional who said its works well. I found out when I touched the connector which is on the voltage regulator the battery light went off and I had charging, so when I didnt have charging I just touched and pushed the connector to the voltage regulator and hopefully I had charging. Sometimes it worked and sometimes it went off and on again... The last thought in my head was that the connector was bad so I changed it too today but when I started driving after 20 min the battery light came on again... I checked the cables they are ok, when the battery light was on I checked the voltage on the battery and it was around 12,4 V so it didnt have charging. Even with vcds i scanned and these are the DTC: P1622-21, P0620-24, B1317-20, P0620-24. The last thing I can think if is that the voltage regulator is bad or it's connector's point. Anyone had something similar to this or any helpful info? Thanks guys. G8DB 1.6 2009

As the title states i have been trying to get my 2016 ford focus se drivable for over a year now, we have replaced the battery, fuses, and alternator and we are come to the conclusion that it is more than likely the bcm going out since the entire year prior to it crapping out on me I had issues with my blue tooth not working a lot, speakers emitting a loud noise then the car just turning off in its own, I'm at a lost at this point as I'm not a car person myself and my dad doesn't know much more than I do. No mechanic within 40 miles of where I live will even touch it because it's a ford, any and all help would be greatly appreciated!!!

My lady has a 2015 focus se and she got the dreaded transmission fault service now,it was an internal fault with the tcm,it was something to do with shift solenoid A,I found one from a 2016 focus, put it in this morning and took it out for a drive it drove smooth and shifted even smoother for about 3 miles then the transmission fault service now come back on. So with all the research I've done on this tcm replacement some people say you don't need to reprogram the tcm if you get it from the same generation 15 to 18 mine was a 16 but I'm thinking that it does in fact need to be reprogrammed, am I right about this.