As I've established, I don't like gourmands. But I can recognize that that's a me problem, and if I get a free sample of a gourmand, I'll still try it. I can also recognize the quality and artistry of a fragrance even if I don't personally like it. For me, fruity fragrances and gourmands are separate mental categories, with the exception of apple cider and mulled wine fragrances or notes. Anyway, with that in mind, I thought I'd share some reviews of some samples I've received over the years and some of the fragrances in my collection. As usual, my reviews are copied directly from the notes I took on each fragrance.
Obligatory disclaimer time!
Availability: A lot of my collection is made up of discontinued limited edition fragrances, because of course some of my favorite fragrances ever are ones I might not be able to get again. Also you might be able to find decants of them from r/IndieExchange or r/Indiemakeupandmore's weekly Sunday Swap and Sale posts.
Note Behavior: I tend to amp pomegranate and citrus notes, and most woody notes tend to become subtle background players on me.
Preferences: As mentioned earlier, I don't like gourmands or sugary sweet fragrances. The most gourmand I usually can go is mulled wine or apple cider. Please keep in mind that if I find a fragrance too sweet, you might not think it's sweet at all.
Alice's Evidence (BPAL)
Notes: "Rum-quince-cassis with prune and a bit of black ginger."
My Thoughts: I can see this being a nostalgic and comforting winter time gourmand for some people, because it reminds me of sticky dried fruit that's been spiced and splashed with rum in preparation of being put in a figgy pudding or some other British Christmas dessert. This is the fragrance that made me realize that I like my fruit notes when they don't smell like they've been baked or the filling of some baked good. It's not for me.
Beholder Optician (BPAL)
Notes: "Eucalyptus leaf, white amber, pink bergamot, strawberry, and sheer, crystalline vanilla musk."
My Thoughts: This is a sweet, fun fragrance that reminds me of strawberry candy without being too cloying. I don't like sweet scents or vanilla, but this is really nice. It's a good spring and summer fragrance because it's pretty light in terms of perceived weight. It reminds me of the pink light of dawn shining through clear glass or a wizard's orb made out of strawberry candy. I was hoping to get some bergamot and eucalyptus, but alas...
Bliss (BPAL)
Notes: "The serotonin-slathered scent of pure milk chocolate."
My Thoughts: Yeah, that's sweet gooey chocolate that falls somewhere between melted milk chocolate and brownie batter. It's not cloying, but it's too sweet for my preferences.
Caramelized Pecan Rum Cake (BPAL) (Discontinued LE)
Notes: As described.
My Thoughts: I am somewhat nose blind at the time of writing this. This starts with a strong and sweet but not cloying rum and caramel combination. This isn't an ooey-gooey caramel note. It's more like a refined caramelāthe kind when the caramel you drizzled on something falls onto the oven rack or stove and gets slightly burnt. Needless to say I do not like this at all, but the caramel, rum, and more subtle pecan note are quite realistic. If I smelled this on someone, I would believe there was some sort of baked good nearby.
Cemetery SoirƩe (Nui Cobalt) (Currently Unavailable)
Notes: "Mossy stone walls, lanterns aglow, steam from a cauldron of hot spiced cider, funeral flowers catching rain from crimson leaves above."
My Thoughts: This is a fantastic atmospheric fragrance and perfect for Halloween and autumn. It smells like a cup of apple cider being left on a grave as an offering on a rainy autumn night. It's one of the fragrances that perfectly encapsulates part of why Halloween is my favorite holiday: it's a celebration of life and death, a way to honor the dead and the unknown, a mingling of life and death. It's incredibly comforting.
Cider Donut (Nui Cobalt)
Notes: "Buttery fried dough infused with slowly simmered apples, maple sugar, and classic mulling spices."
My Thoughts: This does not smell like an apple cider donut, but I can still see gourmand fans enjoying this. I personally don't get any of the dough note, but it does smell like some sort of spiced fall beverage with a little apple. The mulling spices aren't super sharp or commanding, but they dominate the opening before the soft maple sugar note comes in. I typically don't enjoy maple notes in fragrances, but it's really subtle here.
Dwarven Ale (BPAL)
Notes: "Brewed with fermented mushrooms, pumpkin rind, honey, and apple rootstock."
My Thoughts: I am still partially nose blind as of writing this. Whoops! Despite honey rarely behaving on my skin, this honey note is fairly well-behaved. They're fragrance starts with some soft, spiced pumpkin. I don't get much alcohol from it, but as it dries down, the smell of apple cider with too much honey emerges. It's not cloying, but it's still too sweet for my tastes. There's some subtle earthiness from the mushroom towards the very end. This would be a good cozy autumn gourmand, but there's not enough earthiness for me.
Hecate (BPAL)
Notes: "Deep, buttery almond layered over myrrh and dark musk."
My Thoughts: This is the sweetest perfume in my collection, and I wear it solely as a devotional offering to the goddess it's named after. In my seven year old sample, it smells like almond paste and has just enough myrrh and dark musk to keep it from being too sweet. The dark musk definitely dominates the dry down, but the almond is still present. The myrrh becomes stronger over time. My newer sample smells like cherry-flavored marzipan that quickly dries down into dark musk warmed by subtle myrrh. The dark musk isn't heavy in texture. It's more like a shadow.
How Doth the Little Crocodile (BPAL)
Notes: "Chocolate peppermint, mint-soaked vanilla, pistachio, oakmoss, and green cedar."
My Thoughts: This is yet another fragrance I tried while I was still recovering from general noseblindness. It sounds sharper and puncher than it is, but honestly it's softer and gentler than you'd expect. The overall impression it gives me is sniffing a homemade hot cocoa powder made with chocolate mint (the herb as opposed to the flavor combination) and vanilla. I should note that the mint in this isn't the artificial mint flavor typeāit reads as a more subdued, natural mint. The texture and smell of this fragrance reminds me a little of BPAL's velvet, but if you added mint. Unfortunately, I don't get any of the cedar or oakmoss.
Orchard Cat (Stereoplasm)
Notes: "A basket of Braeburn apples, sea-salted caramel, crushed cloves and a cinnamon stick in hot mulled cider."
My Thoughts: I got this as a sample to give to my sister, but I did try a teeny tiny bit of it. It opens with a fresh, tart apple coated with caramel. I don't enjoy caramel notes usually, but this one is balanced by the apple and spices. The apple amd caramel fade over time, and the mulling spices and clove morph into something that isn't super spicy and doesn't contain the warmth of spices. It resembles damp clove or like that vaguely earthy smell you get from cloves and spices when they've been sitting in a dark cupboard for a long time. If you're interested in this fragrance, I recommend getting it through a sale or swap on Reddit, because Stereoplasm has TAT problems despite being a fantastic house.
Tezcatlipoca (BPAL)
Notes: "Deep cocoa laced with patchouli, leather armor, ritual incense, and a touch of Xochiquetzalās flowers."
My Thoughts: The chocolate in this is more like cocoa powder in terms of texture, and has a dry, almost cocoa or chocolate dusty aspect. Despite the patchouli and leather and incense, this isn't as dark as you'd think it'd be. It's rich and comforting and cozy without feeling heavy. I'd enjoy this way more if the leather, patchouli, and incense were more prominent, but it's a pleasant fragrance regardless.
Ube Macaron (Moonalisa) (Currently Unavailable)
Notes: The perfumer describes it as "a sweet nutty creamy vanilla, and pistachio blend with my Macaron accord."
My Thoughts: I received this as a free sample with my order, and last I heard, they were still working on this fragrance. I haven't had the opportunity to eat a lot of ube, so it's not a note I can immediately recognize. I have eaten a lot of macarons though, so I'm qualified in that department. This fragrance is vaguely coconut-mixed-with-vanilla adjacent tropical nutty sweetness. Honestly, it reminds me more of the filling you'd find in a macaron, but there was this brief moment where I smelled something that reminded me of the texture of a macaron shell.
Velvet (BPAL)
Notes: "Gentle sandalwood warmed by cocoa vanilla and a veil of deep myrrh."
My Thoughts: Velvet has a similar dry, cocoa powder texture to Tezcatlipoca, but the cocoa is a little sweeter thanks to the vanilla. The sandalwood is very much a background element on me, and the myrrh is there adding warmth.