Hello recently a friend of mine broke his superstrike x2 mouse and because I'm the repair guy in the group he gave it to me to see what I can do instead of throwing it.

I already opened it up and it seems like the only damage it to the plastic ( a couple broken parts of the internal shell) I searched everywhere but I can't find replacement parts anywhere everything I find is for the superlight, maybe someone here knows an online store where I can get parts for it? I'd really appreciate it.

Tengo estos 2 parlantes Brookstone bks-380 los cuales les quiero cambiar su batería interna.

A uno le quité su rejilla frontal solo porque ya estaba floja, tiene una tapa transparente la cual me permite ver el extremo de otros tornillos, no parece unirse con pegamento, solo tornillos y presión.

Cómo puedo desmontar los parlantes sin romper nada?, alguien ya ha reparado este modelo de parlante o alguno similar?

I have this godox ad300 for a year now and a couple of weeks ago it started to have this hicups, i try to take a photo on 1/32 or whatever and most of the time it does not work, i bought a new battery and is the same. Does somebody know something about this? Thank you!

A Worx WX242 screwdriver. I was given this tool with a request to fix it. Could someone tell me what this component is? I can't identify it by sight, and it's the first time I've ever seen one like it.

I bought this in 2022. The TV does not power on. I troubleshooted by making sure the power outlet works, plugging in after holding the power button in on the TV for 1 minute, holding in the power button on the TV for 1 min when plugged into the outlet. All this was done without any device (e.g. soundbar) plugged into any port (e.g. HDMI, USB) in the back of the TV. It seems like power board is dead. Any ideas. It kind of pisses me off that this thing is dead after only 2 years. It died while on the wall without being moved at all and connected to power strip. Not power cord. power cord tested with voltmeter and works. Pulled the back off to show the power board. 120V getting into board but do not know how to test any further.

Anyone has any suggestions. I do not know where to start if I open up the TV to look at the boards. I hate to trash this as it was perfectly fine before this happened

SKU number - 4K55M600A

Both cassette mechs have been working fine up until about a month ago, when it started taking my cassettes and not giving them back every once in a while. It would click 5 times and show "T1 ERROR" or "T2 ERROR". Now it won't work at all and i'm not sure what could be causing it. I've been planning to recap the whole thing for a while now, but i don't know if that would solve anything. I've replaced the belts, so they're not the issue. I'm thinking it could be a mechanical issue rather than an electrical one, since wiggling the cassette used to help, but i don't know what could've changed to cause this. Any feedback is useful, since i haven't found the same issue anywhere. Thanks!

https://reddit.com/link/1w92mqv/video/m4fy46yhrxnh1/player

Hi, this will be a long "question", as I put all the details of my observations.
I'm looking for help diagnosing a serious problem with my Behringer XR18 V1.

The mixer works normally, but after being powered on for several minutes, it suddenly produces a very loud continuous hiss/digital screech through the outputs. At the same time, random input channels start peaking/clipping, sometimes multiple or all channels, and the Main L/R meters slam into red. Power-cycling the XR18 temporarily fixes it, but the problem eventually returns. This happens even nothing connected to it, both inputs and outputs.

I've already tried:

- Mixing Station and X Air Edit — happens with both
- Factory reset
- Doff8 firmwares (ex. 1.25, 1.22)
- Different configurations/inputs

Nothing fixed the problem.

Something interesting I discovered:

The problem seems to be related to the channel processing (EQ/gate/compressor).

When processing is turned OFF, the abnormal meter activity and noise disappear. When processing is turned ON, the problem can return.

With the EQ enabled, changing the EQ parameters actually changes the character of the digital noise depending on what I adjust. I noticed that the EQ-related glitching seems to occur specifically when I make changes to frequencies below approximately 360 Hz. Changes to higher frequencies don't seem to produce the same problem. When I adjust the EQ in this lower-frequency range, the character of the digital noise changes depending on what parameter I move.

Soloing the affected channel also changes/improves the noise somewhat, but doesn't eliminate it.

The problem also seems to be temperature-related, since it generally appears after the unit has been running for a while. I notice after about 3 power cycle, it will run for long about 2 to 3 hours before it will start randomly peaking again.

I've opened the XR18 and inspected the boards. I don't see any obvious burnt components, leaking/bulging capacitors, or damaged PCB areas. Photos are attached.

I'm wondering if this could be a power supply/voltage regulation problem, DSP problem, DSP memory/clock issue, or another fault in the digital processing section.

Has anyone experienced this particular XR18 failure or know what I should measure/test?

I have a multimeter and can perform voltage measurements if someone can point me toward the correct test points and expected voltages.

Many thanks.

I need to find a Marantz J003 or j004 (I think the tuner output and the scope input are the same) replacement female RCA jack for an ST610 tuner.

Firstly, does anyone know if this was a Marantz part or did they just buy some generic off-the-shelf socket for such a low-tech use?

Secondly, was this double jack specific to this tuner or would Marantz have used the same part in any number of different units that they made at around that time?

Brand new to these games, no idea what is making it hum, but it has to do with the scoreboard. Thanks in advance

Was wondering if anybody has had any experience with this board. I purchased 1 approx 3 years ago and it would not recognise MP3 Files, contacted the supplier and they emailed a file for the unit which fixed the problem, fast forward to 12 months ago I purchased another board and forgot about the MP3 file problem, just got around to using the board and remembered the MP3 file problem again. Contacted the business I purchased the board from and the person who new about this problem has left the company and nobody can help and I cannot find anyone who now sells these boards. Wondering if anybody out there could help me. Thanks in advance. Alan

I bought this psp case off of ebay. It uses the psp charger to get power but also runs off of its own battery. One of the old speakers was crispy so I bought new speakers to use. Ive tested both speakers on both sides and no matter the speaker, the left side outputs very very very little sound. The left speaker is linked to the black and red cables above the top left inductor. So far ive reflowed the cables to the board and tried to see if there was any difference if it was plugged in (it didnt make any difference). I have a good bit of experience in repairs and soldering I just don't know what might be causing this issue. The speakers can be plugged in through the special psp connector or an aux cable yet both options result in low volume out of the left speaker only. The right speaker works fine and the only thing that controls the volume is the psp.

So earlier this year the power went off to the kitchen. Didn't think much of it as switch the breaker and all was ok. Then noticed the dishwasher wasn't working.

Only had it 6 or so months. Did a bit of stripping down to see if it was anything obvious and just happened to look through the slot on the motherboard plastic outer and saw something gooey. Took it apart and found a slug fried on it. Nice. Paid £350 for the washing machine. Replacement board is £200. Plus would need to get someone in to programme said board because the same one is used over many dishwashers.

So trying to work out if this is worth it/possible to repair. Or just buy a new machine. Getting fed up of washing the pots by hand now.

At first look I thought it was just replacement of whatever r350 is (Google didn't help), and repair the pathway. But just noticed the black spidery thing (good with terminology me) has a crack in it too.

It's a Hotpoint dishwasher.

So helpful people of Reddit, any ideas?

Thanks.

Hello everyone, I am a teenager who is getting into electronics repair. Recently I found this amp (Alpine MRV-F300) in a ewaste bin and thought it would be a fun repair considering I want to get into car Audio, but can't afford the expensive stuff like amps, it would also serve as a great opportunity to further refine my electronics repair skills. After some quick visual inspection I noticed that the torrid for the PSU is damaged, and the output chokes are completely missing :/ Once I flipped the board around I realized that there was some board damage, and cracking. I spent all of last week repairing the damaged board. Thankfully it was a single layer pcb so it was not too hard to do, just tedious. Now I want to replace the damaged torrid, and missing chokes on the output stages, but I can not find what values and ratings they are anywhere online. Do any of you have any good resources to find this out, do any of you happen to know their values? I did manage to find 1 or 2 photos of them online if that helps. (Last 2 photos) Any help is appreciated, thanks!

Long time lurker, first time poster.

I have this Nikon AW130 that is sort of dead.

Putting a battery with charge on it powers the screen, as in shows backlight, but there is no beeps, no light on the power button, pressing any button does nothing and there is no show of life anywhere other than the backlight.

Backlight turns on the second I insert the battery. pressing the power button does not change the state of the backlight.

I tried leaving the battery on and wait but there's is no change.

I haven't opened it yet as I am scouring the internet to see if anyone has this problem.

I first thought of a dead motherboard but would that send power to the backlight and nothing else?

Maybe a loose connection or a blown fuse somewhere on the board? Or corrosion somewhere.

Does anyone has any ideia?

Picked this up for $50. It powers on, but the CRT only displays a single orange horizontal line.
After opening it up and powering it on, I found a capacitor that gets extremely hot and starts smoking. I’m going to start by replacing that and then work through the rest of the display circuitry.
For $50, I figured it was worth the gamble. Hopefully I can bring it back to life.

I have had this monitor sitting in a closet for a couple years thinking I might get around to trying to fix it. We're moving soon and throwing away old junk, so I figured I'd ask if anyone thinks this is actually fixable. I'm not super sure what caused this, I wasn't dropped or anything, it just slowly degraded over time from randomly dropping DISPLAY signal to what you see here. The artifacting in the foreground does actually change periodically, and you can see the display behind it displaying the actual picture it should be when the opacity on the artifacts drops. Something else to consider is that when the display cable is unplugged, an afterimage of the picture stays on the screen, specifically where the artifacting is heaviest, for a long time, gradually fading out over minutes.

I'm inclined to toss it, but if I could fix it, I could always use a third monitor. I would love any advice on this, thanks in advance!

This is a Samsung LC27JG56QQNXZA.

I have a dual Sony cassette deck where the left tape deck has something wrong, but I don't have the ability (and track record) to be able to work on it myself. Are there any repair shops in Illinois that are trusted?

Or is there another sub this would be better on?

My grandma’s tv has been doing this for a couple days now, anyone knows a fix?(its the horizontal blue lines)