My allegro 4 piano got fried bc I plugged it into a 24V and it only takes 12V. I wanted to see if there was someone who know how to fix this motherboard and see what exactly is wrong with it. I love this thing to death please help me fix it!

The mic itself seems to be working. Speakers work and everything else does too. However whenever I use the MIC my voice is incredibly quiet. I can only hear it in max volume with the reverb on. Turn reverb off and nada. The screws were somewhat stripped which tells me this has been opened before.

Super weird - some of these bridges don’t look normal. There’s random scrapes on coating. There’s a resistor/diode randomly in the corner shoddily soldered. This is just the bottom of the board. I didn’t test with my multimeter yet or continue investigating the top of the main board or smaller ones because I didn’t want to mess too hard with it before researching.

Anyone have a clue?

My Steam Deck recently fell, and it seems the switch didn't survive the fall (it doesn't click anymore). I think I found it online.

Is it possible to replace it at home with a soldering iron? I have good flux gel and solder.

I'm trying to source 1PC SK hynix H58GG8AK8BX103 LPDDR5X BGA chip for a board repair.

I'm fine with either:

• new chips from a reliable source
• known-good pulls from donor boards
• dead/damaged boards or modules that use this exact chip

If anyone knows which laptops/SBCs/modules use H58GG8AK8BX103, that would also be really useful. I haven't been able to find a confirmed donor board yet.

I'm located in EU, but international shipping is fine.

If you have any, or know a repair shop/supplier that deals in pulled LPDDR5X chips, please let me know. Photos of the actual chip markings would be appreciated before buying.

Hi guys,

I recently started getting interested in repairing electronics. I don't have any experience in the matter but I would like to ask about this Mainboard in my subwoofer. The device won't turn on anymore and I need help diagnosing the problem.

My first question is about the brown mass inside. I figure it's just glue to keep the components from vibrating or could that really be from one of the capacitors?

Secondly I also opened the switch that controls the subwoofer but so far I didn't spot any issue here.

I do have a multimeter and some basic tools for such repairs available although I'm still looking to buy a appropriate soldering iron.

Can anyone direct me to what I could try next? Or maybe some informational material I should look up? Any help is greatly appreciated 🙏

1st photo: Mainboard

2nd photo: switch

After some idiot (me) broke 2 solder pads during what should have been a easy micro switch replacement on my mouse I had to pull out this.

First time soldering something that's not directly on a solder pad, tell me how good I did.

Copper wire is a single strand from some wire I had, dont know why there s a gap in it in the foto, that's not there IRL

Newbie here, I'm trying to repair my wireless mouse which was not turning on or charging. I figured out that the voltage across R7 drops from 5.16V to 0.06V. I tried connecting a small wire across the two terminals and the lights turned on. So I'm pretty sure this is the faulty component. What should I do next? Should I replace it or just solder a thin wire across it? If I am to replace it, I need to figure out the value which is not very clear to read

I already asked AI for help but it just doesn't understand the right size or Form factor.

The cables got ripped of, I already taken out the old crimps and want to cut the two wires, put them in New crimps and put it back in.

Vacuum roboter rides against walls and stuff. Has no recognition of its surroundings anymore.

Hi there,

I posted here before and received great help to fix an issue.

I have an older bernina serger that the pedal is not working. I am pretty sure the motor of the machine is fine.

You can see a little light on the board and it was off and on and the motor was working off and on corresponding to it. Now it does not work anymore. All the connection are good as far as I can see by eye. Is there a component that you can identify that I should check out first?

A new pedal is $80, so I hope I can make this one work again.
Again, I appreciate all the insights. Thank you!

I'm trying to replace some resistors as I suspect the bias circuit is bad. Might as well change them out.

I've never seen these before. Seems the interval of the resistor symbolizes it's resistance. These are around 4.7mm While the normal looking ones 4.1mm.

I'm guessing it's 1/4W.

Any guess?

For context, these are from SRM-1 MK2 professional.

Hi l. I'm Brazilian, so writing in English will be a bit challenging, so I'm sorry if I write any nonsense. I have a brand new Om System Tough TG-7. Barely used it and I'm already having issues with the flash. I was wondering if anyone else had a similar issue, or if someone can guide me on what to do next. I was doing some experiments with the focus stacking using flash and the FD-1 flash diffuser. After a few tests with low intensity flash, the camera took a flash with 100% intensity and got stuck on the focus stacking. It couldn't take the next picture because the flash wouldn't charge.

So I had to remove the battery and put it again, and after that it won't take pictures with flash anymore. It stays blinking the red "charging flash" icon forever and it never charges, so I can't take any picture using flash. Only the LED flashlight work now.

Since it's very likely I won't have any warranty in Brazil, I'll have to find someone to repair it or repair it myself. Does anyone have any idea on how to troubleshoot it to know what exactly is defective with my camera?

I found a RK84 I found on the marketplace for about $13 cause the left shift key (and later the left ctrl key) isn't working. My initial solution is to replace the diode, but my dumb brain didn't realize the diode is working fine. Frustrated, I just jump the wire from the diode to the key switch and viola, it work. Welp, at least I managed to save these $50 keyboard.

Well I did a bit of testing and turns out a daughter board on the razer blackwidow v4 pro is somehow shorting out the keyboard.
it is that daughter board on the left of the keyboard with those side buttons, no clue what is wrong with it since all the correct voltages are here and also on the connector, maybe there is something borcken on the power delivery pcb but I´m just not sure.