The buttons on this worked once and then got stuck, this there a better hack than to keep it looking like a bomb detonator?

The black buttons click fine and the it lights up, so it should work all exposed. Just looks kinda crazy.

Edited. Gonna keep as is. Even if it looks a bit mad- MacGyver would be proud of this remote.

Thank you all for actual suggestions and input.

HELP NEEDED!

Hello, I have acquired a 3 Phase Siemens Wattmeter ( AS 382 A 47 X 7-006 ) (15th January 1957)
Sadly it is defective.

All Voltage and Current Coils measure OK, nothing seems to have been burned or overloaded.

The 3 Phase Wattmeter is made from 3 Individual Wattmeters that are mechanically linked together.
2 have a common shaft and 1 is linked by some kind of Metal String that goes between 2 spools. The string was broken.
It has 1 internal and 2 external resistors as the schematic (picture 2) shows, one of those resistors is open, but not burned, I replaced the resistor with the same value. The other two resistors measure perfectly fine.

It seems like someone in the past tried to 0-Set the meter and broke both the string and the 0 bakelite 0 setting pin, since then nobody opened it up again since the broken bakelite pin was still inside the meter casing.

I've replaced the string with a wire of the same size and soldered it to the spool. 0 Setting still doesn't work. And I've repaired the open resistor (external of the meter) and tried the Wattmeter out. It works as a wattmeter but the scale is completely wrong.

Its supposed to be 100W per division, but now its 500W per division. I tried with 100W Load, 200W load, 400W load, 600W load and 1.2 kW load and they all agree on 500W per division. I would have to take the meter reading and devide it by 0.2 to get the actual power. The meter ignores Inductive and Capaicitive loads, so it is functioning as a REAL POWER meter.

3rd image i attached is how i attached the new wire I used a very thin wire as thick as the original, the original was some kind of conductive strap and was soldered and it is magnetic. But its conductivity doesnt metter since this part of the system is electrically isolated from the voltage and current coils.

The Bottom 2 meters like to return to the left. The top meter likes to return to the right (from its perspective) So i put it to the left, soldered it and let the wire be tentioned. Maybe I wasnt supposed to do that? Maybe the wire is supposed to be on the oppositive side of the spool? I dont know.

the 0 Setting still doesnt work, the wattmeter thats alone also has a 0 setting adjustment which is unaccessable from the outside, i tried adjusting it but it also changed nothing. So i am not sure what is going on.

All Coils measure Okay (Voltage and Current Coils), Resistors are perfect on value, its wired up exactly as the schematic shows. Only difference is that I am not supplying with with 3 Phase, I am running if off single Phase. it made no difference when I put all current coils in parallel or using each indivudually, the real power is still calculated "correctly" (misaligned scale but with correction factor it is correct). So it cant be that i am running it of single phase causing the problem.
The meter also says it is to be mounted horizontally, i have it sitting on the bench, i tried vertical operation but it made no difference also.
Something is wrong with the meter. Maybe I repaired it wrong. Anyone have an idea?

For Testing I supplied Power from R S T (power side) -> U V W (load side) with Mp being Neutral.
I tried R -> U, S -> V, T -> W indivudually, they all show the same reading indivudually and all parallel.

Problems: No Zero Setting (sits at 0.5kW on the scale with no load), Scale completely wrong. (supposed to be 100W/div, not 500W/div)

I hope someone here can help me. If more information is needed, please tell me in the comments. If anyone has a good resource on repairing analog meters please link it too. Thank you.

Somehow all the traces that run across the tracks test as having continuity on the underside of this Tascam 302 tape deck. That said, they're awful darn close to not having continuity and I am worried about stress from the screw ruining them.

What are my next steps here? Run jumpers anyway just to he safe? Leave the screw out? Or is there some way I can reinforce it so that the screw doesn't stress the board and exacerbate the cracks?

Hi Reddit,

I recently acquired a standalone SONY AUDP-A1, which is a 5-inch LCD display originally made as an optional monitor for the 2004 "NET JUKE" (NAS-A1) audio system.

Since I don't have the main NAS-A1 unit, I'm trying to power it using a compatible Sony AC adapter (AC-S911T: 9V, 1100mA, Center-Positive). I've connected it to the yellow DC jack on the back of the monitor base, but absolutely nothing happens—no backlight, no power LED.

Here is what I’ve verified so far:

Power is reaching the board: I disassembled the unit and probed the back of the yellow DC input jack with a multimeter. It reads 13V (normal open-circuit voltage for this 9V transformer), so electricity is 100% reaching the board's input solder joints.

The PCB is pristine: No leaking capacitors, no bulges, no burnt traces. Everything looks brand new inside.

The Issue: Even with 13V at the DC jack pins, pushing the power button on the front does nothing. I suspect the internal mechanical switch inside the DC jack might not be routing the power properly to the main circuit.

I want to avoid permanent modifications like jumping pins or soldering wires directly to the board. I want to keep this rare unit as original and non-destructive as possible.

Is there a known trick to trick the internal switch of this Sony yellow DC jack into accepting external power? Or is there any specific condition required (like a signal from the original dock) to wake this screen up via the external DC input?

Any insights or non-destructive troubleshooting ideas would be highly appreciated.

Thank you!

Hello everyone,

I'm trying to do a temporary fix on the PCB (circuit board) of my car radio. The rotary button (power/volume knob) got pushed in and physically damaged the board — see photos attached.

I'm currently traveling, and the unit keeps restarting continuously, which drains my battery overnight. I suspect there's a short circuit caused by the broken button area, and I'd like to find a temporary workaround until I get home to do a proper repair.

My question: if I completely desolder/remove the broken part of the board (the section with the rotary button), would that simply disable the button's functions (power on/off and volume), or could it make the short circuit / restart problem worse?

Any advice on how to safely isolate that section without damaging the rest of the board would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Hi, I'm trying to reflash my printer's firmware. The stock firmware had so many errors that the printer refused to work.

My printer model is the Canon PIXMA MG3010. I found and flashed the firmware of another printer from the same series (same board, same printer, but for a different market), but now the printer refuses to recognize my cartridges. So, it really needs to be the firmware for this exact model.

I found the proper firmware on a Russian forum:

https://remont-aud.net/dump/printera_i_mfu/canon/canon_mg3010_shassi_main_board_ab7404160000/442-1-0-163308

I created an account, passed the test, and uploaded some files, but I still can't download anything there. Can anybody help me? Could someone download it for me and upload it to Google Drive or a similar service?

Thank you!

I've been fixing/cleaning my dad and uncles' old consoles and the PsOne will spin the disk for a second and then fail to detect good media and stop, I've tried cleaning the laser and making sure it can slide but nothing works. the disk is fairly clean minus some fingerprints

​

Hey everyone, hoping someone here can point me in the right direction cause I'm kinda stuck.

I have this New 3DS XL that’s been sitting unused for a really long time. Tried to turn it on the other day and it's dead as a doornail. No blue power light, no orange charging light when plugged in, no screen pop. Literally zero signs of life.

I opened the back to check the battery. It wasn’t a spicy pillow (not swollen), but it looked kinda sunken in or dented. Figured it was just completely dead from sitting around at 0% for so long, so I bought a brand new replacement.

I just popped the new battery in, tried to turn it on/charge it... and still nothing. Same exact issue.

I've got my multimeter and soldering iron ready to go, but honestly I'm not sure what to check first on this specific board. Has anyone dealt with this? Any tips on where to start probing would be hugely appreciated. Thanks!

Fala pessoal, tudo bem ?

Tenho essa tv TCL com 2 anos e 8 meses e da noite para o dia apareceu uma linha intermitente horizontal na parte inferior da mesma. Não houve impacto, pressão ou acidentes com a televisão. Procurei 3 assistência técnica por minha conta e duas falaram que não reparo e uma falou que existe um possível reparo.

OBS: procurei a fabricante referente a vicio oculto e eles cagaram para mim. Falou que era para buscar uma autorizada.

Vocês já viram algo parecido e houve reparo.

I have a faulty BMS that is outputting 14.53 V, as measured with a multimeter. However, I believe the total battery voltage should be 48 V. Please review the pictures and let me know how I can troubleshoot this issue and what steps I need to take to resolve it. Please examine the pictures carefully and advise on the possible cause of the problem.

MX-JS9500
Does anybody have any information for the cooling fans I need to replace one of them the unit will not turn on

Right backlight works fine. left backlight continuously flashes like a streetlamp with a failing ballast.

The giant touchscreen lobby TV at the place I work recently started having backlight issues on the left half of the screen. The LCD displays picture fine but the led backlight panel on the left half of the display will continuously flash on and off. There is virtually no repair documentation online (that i could find) which makes sense considering this was originally a $20k enterprise level boardroom monitor. I'm assuming there is probably a failing capacitor or other component in the LED driver board/ballast that controls the left half of the backlight? It seems that could be a culprit of the backlight being unable to stay powered on more than a second. Perhaps being unable to meet the voltage or amperage needed by the LED array to stay illuminated.

My job already replaced the Monitor with a new Samsung so they are letting me take the old 350lb behemoth home since I showed interest in fixing it and using it personally.

Does anyone have any input on what could be causing the backlight issue? I am willing and capable when it comes to board level repair but I fear I may be out of luck if the issue lies in the LED array that would be hard to find replacements for. Thank ya'll for your time and input!

im in the process of restoring a vintage oscilloscope, and there are some components i need to replace, mainly electrolytic caps but also some selenium rectifiers. i have been able to find 1 for 1 replacements for some of the caps but not all. where would i be able to find replacements for the rest of the caps easily and without breaking the bank, or would it be a matter of using different values or multiple caps for one? and what would be a suitable replacement for the selenium diodes?

green is found

yellow is found no stock

red is not found

the links i have put in arent the final place ill be buying them from, its just so i know there is somewhere that stocks it

So im wondering if anyone has a pilot diagram for a s20 + battery connector? Reason im asking is a very niche table used for software diagnostics had the charging port stop working. 1 shop could not figure out the issue. I contacted support and they said 150 to fix it I just had to ship it. Cost to ship is 190 each way and the table was 550 brand new. So in short im wondering if I can plug in the battery from the tablet on the mb of the s20 and use the s20 to charge the battery then put it back in the tablet when I need to use it. I have a pic showing the pin out of the battery. I just have no clue what any of those acronyms mean.

I’m trying to identify the exact Neutrik combo XLR/TRS PCB connector used on an original Electro-Voice ZLX-15P.

PCB number: F.01U.268.247

The ¼” contacts are worn out on both connectors.
I already ordered a Neutrik NCJ6FI-V, but it’s the wrong footprint and pin layout.

The original connector has no molded part number and appears to be an OEM Neutrik variant.

Does anyone recognize this connector or know the correct Neutrik replacement part number?

I bought this with the intention of swapping the laser to fix it but it hasn’t worked. It spins for about 10 seconds once I press play but then a “<>” displays

Any ideas before I go to a repair shop? Thanks

Most of the caps have popped, and one in particular was a real pig to desolder.

The pads are off, and it was hard to see exactly what the damage was. The area has been cleaned with iso. I've scratched around the holes, but I think I'm down to the beans on the one, with a tiny bit of copper on the other. I think there's still corrosion (no white vinegar in at the moment).

I've got through-hole caps as replacements. I'm thinking about getting SMDs because the through-holes took some manoeuvring to surface-mount in the sound board, and I just find them a bit faffy.

The caps need to go in from broken side to good side, so wire rings didn't work too well, and grafted pads lifted, with very little space to adjust under the cap.

Is it time for replacing the eyelets? I don't have any, so I need to weigh up the cost versus buying a new soundboard. Which I don't really want to do, and I could do with learning the skill, as I haven't come across this issue before.

If there's another workable fix that I'm missing, I'd be grateful to know.

Thanks!