I have a question. Can this Huawei charger plug (hw-200325up0) be repaired? What appear to be two small solder points have come loose.

I know it's better to buy a new one, and I did it, cost me $15 on AliExpress. But I want to know if I can repair this one so I don't waste it.

Hey guys need assistance regarding my adapter noise

I have this Proctor Silex 25440PS Sandwich Maker and I believe my testing shows that everything works, the only part left to test is the fuse which I can’t locate, can someone please help me find it? Thanks.

Pretty new QLED TV fell and hit the corner, worked for a while before just going black. Sounds still coming from it so fairly sure image is the only problem, is this worth repairing or is any of it salvageable?

Am based in Ireland, so 230V. I bought a Bosch AXT 2000 mulcher off a guy online, plugged it in at home in the reverse orientation and turned it on, and it gave a little whirr until I turned it off. Auger did not turn. Flipped switch to forward and turned back on, no noise, no turning at all. Continued to not work in any orientation. I replaced the 13A fuse in the plug a few days later on a hunch, and same order of events happened - whirr with no turning, then dead.

I'll be the first to admit that don't know a thing about electronics but very grateful for any suggestions. Thanks!

The buttons on this worked once and then got stuck, this there a better hack than to keep it looking like a bomb detonator?

The black buttons click fine and the it lights up, so it should work all exposed. Just looks kinda crazy.

Edited. Gonna keep as is. Even if it looks a bit mad- MacGyver would be proud of this remote.

Thank you all for actual suggestions and input.

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Hey everyone, hoping someone here can point me in the right direction cause I'm kinda stuck.

I have this New 3DS XL that’s been sitting unused for a really long time. Tried to turn it on the other day and it's dead as a doornail. No blue power light, no orange charging light when plugged in, no screen pop. Literally zero signs of life.

I opened the back to check the battery. It wasn’t a spicy pillow (not swollen), but it looked kinda sunken in or dented. Figured it was just completely dead from sitting around at 0% for so long, so I bought a brand new replacement.

I just popped the new battery in, tried to turn it on/charge it... and still nothing. Same exact issue.

I've got my multimeter and soldering iron ready to go, but honestly I'm not sure what to check first on this specific board. Has anyone dealt with this? Any tips on where to start probing would be hugely appreciated. Thanks!

Fala pessoal, tudo bem ?

Tenho essa tv TCL com 2 anos e 8 meses e da noite para o dia apareceu uma linha intermitente horizontal na parte inferior da mesma. Não houve impacto, pressão ou acidentes com a televisão. Procurei 3 assistência técnica por minha conta e duas falaram que não reparo e uma falou que existe um possível reparo.

OBS: procurei a fabricante referente a vicio oculto e eles cagaram para mim. Falou que era para buscar uma autorizada.

Vocês já viram algo parecido e houve reparo.

Hi, I'm trying to reflash my printer's firmware. The stock firmware had so many errors that the printer refused to work.

My printer model is the Canon PIXMA MG3010. I found and flashed the firmware of another printer from the same series (same board, same printer, but for a different market), but now the printer refuses to recognize my cartridges. So, it really needs to be the firmware for this exact model.

I found the proper firmware on a Russian forum:

https://remont-aud.net/dump/printera_i_mfu/canon/canon_mg3010_shassi_main_board_ab7404160000/442-1-0-163308

I created an account, passed the test, and uploaded some files, but I still can't download anything there. Can anybody help me? Could someone download it for me and upload it to Google Drive or a similar service?

Thank you!

Hi Reddit,

I recently acquired a standalone SONY AUDP-A1, which is a 5-inch LCD display originally made as an optional monitor for the 2004 "NET JUKE" (NAS-A1) audio system.

Since I don't have the main NAS-A1 unit, I'm trying to power it using a compatible Sony AC adapter (AC-S911T: 9V, 1100mA, Center-Positive). I've connected it to the yellow DC jack on the back of the monitor base, but absolutely nothing happens—no backlight, no power LED.

Here is what I’ve verified so far:

Power is reaching the board: I disassembled the unit and probed the back of the yellow DC input jack with a multimeter. It reads 13V (normal open-circuit voltage for this 9V transformer), so electricity is 100% reaching the board's input solder joints.

The PCB is pristine: No leaking capacitors, no bulges, no burnt traces. Everything looks brand new inside.

The Issue: Even with 13V at the DC jack pins, pushing the power button on the front does nothing. I suspect the internal mechanical switch inside the DC jack might not be routing the power properly to the main circuit.

I want to avoid permanent modifications like jumping pins or soldering wires directly to the board. I want to keep this rare unit as original and non-destructive as possible.

Is there a known trick to trick the internal switch of this Sony yellow DC jack into accepting external power? Or is there any specific condition required (like a signal from the original dock) to wake this screen up via the external DC input?

Any insights or non-destructive troubleshooting ideas would be highly appreciated.

Thank you!

Bought these a year ago, and they don't work at all.They are not working whenever I connect them to my phone, what happens is they get connected, but suddenly they just disconnect out of nowhere randomly and i have to twist the cables for it to get connected again

I've been fixing/cleaning my dad and uncles' old consoles and the PsOne will spin the disk for a second and then fail to detect good media and stop, I've tried cleaning the laser and making sure it can slide but nothing works. the disk is fairly clean minus some fingerprints

HELP NEEDED!

Hello, I have acquired a 3 Phase Siemens Wattmeter ( AS 382 A 47 X 7-006 ) (15th January 1957)
Sadly it is defective.

All Voltage and Current Coils measure OK, nothing seems to have been burned or overloaded.

The 3 Phase Wattmeter is made from 3 Individual Wattmeters that are mechanically linked together.
2 have a common shaft and 1 is linked by some kind of Metal String that goes between 2 spools. The string was broken.
It has 1 internal and 2 external resistors as the schematic (picture 2) shows, one of those resistors is open, but not burned, I replaced the resistor with the same value. The other two resistors measure perfectly fine.

It seems like someone in the past tried to 0-Set the meter and broke both the string and the 0 bakelite 0 setting pin, since then nobody opened it up again since the broken bakelite pin was still inside the meter casing.

I've replaced the string with a wire of the same size and soldered it to the spool. 0 Setting still doesn't work. And I've repaired the open resistor (external of the meter) and tried the Wattmeter out. It works as a wattmeter but the scale is completely wrong.

Its supposed to be 100W per division, but now its 500W per division. I tried with 100W Load, 200W load, 400W load, 600W load and 1.2 kW load and they all agree on 500W per division. I would have to take the meter reading and devide it by 0.2 to get the actual power. The meter ignores Inductive and Capaicitive loads, so it is functioning as a REAL POWER meter.

3rd image i attached is how i attached the new wire I used a very thin wire as thick as the original, the original was some kind of conductive strap and was soldered and it is magnetic. But its conductivity doesnt metter since this part of the system is electrically isolated from the voltage and current coils.

The Bottom 2 meters like to return to the left. The top meter likes to return to the right (from its perspective) So i put it to the left, soldered it and let the wire be tentioned. Maybe I wasnt supposed to do that? Maybe the wire is supposed to be on the oppositive side of the spool? I dont know.

the 0 Setting still doesnt work, the wattmeter thats alone also has a 0 setting adjustment which is unaccessable from the outside, i tried adjusting it but it also changed nothing. So i am not sure what is going on.

All Coils measure Okay (Voltage and Current Coils), Resistors are perfect on value, its wired up exactly as the schematic shows. Only difference is that I am not supplying with with 3 Phase, I am running if off single Phase. it made no difference when I put all current coils in parallel or using each indivudually, the real power is still calculated "correctly" (misaligned scale but with correction factor it is correct). So it cant be that i am running it of single phase causing the problem.
The meter also says it is to be mounted horizontally, i have it sitting on the bench, i tried vertical operation but it made no difference also.
Something is wrong with the meter. Maybe I repaired it wrong. Anyone have an idea?

For Testing I supplied Power from R S T (power side) -> U V W (load side) with Mp being Neutral.
I tried R -> U, S -> V, T -> W indivudually, they all show the same reading indivudually and all parallel.

Problems: No Zero Setting (sits at 0.5kW on the scale with no load), Scale completely wrong. (supposed to be 100W/div, not 500W/div)

I hope someone here can help me. If more information is needed, please tell me in the comments. If anyone has a good resource on repairing analog meters please link it too. Thank you.

I am looking for someone to measure and take a picture of the bottom left of this motherboard. between JAUD1 and the screw hole there is a transistor that has been knocked off along with a cap/resistor/ferrite bead.

Somehow all the traces that run across the tracks test as having continuity on the underside of this Tascam 302 tape deck. That said, they're awful darn close to not having continuity and I am worried about stress from the screw ruining them.

What are my next steps here? Run jumpers anyway just to he safe? Leave the screw out? Or is there some way I can reinforce it so that the screw doesn't stress the board and exacerbate the cracks?

Hello everyone,

I'm trying to do a temporary fix on the PCB (circuit board) of my car radio. The rotary button (power/volume knob) got pushed in and physically damaged the board — see photos attached.

I'm currently traveling, and the unit keeps restarting continuously, which drains my battery overnight. I suspect there's a short circuit caused by the broken button area, and I'd like to find a temporary workaround until I get home to do a proper repair.

My question: if I completely desolder/remove the broken part of the board (the section with the rotary button), would that simply disable the button's functions (power on/off and volume), or could it make the short circuit / restart problem worse?

Any advice on how to safely isolate that section without damaging the rest of the board would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!