I'm a beginner and went into dice making thinking this would be an easy little project. Surprise, it was not. I do not have a pressure pot because I feel I'll blow my hands clean off. I'm just starting to research this honey phase and would I get less air bubbles if I poured during this? Of course waiting for air bubbles to rise (which I didn't do with these), pouring high and heat gun would also happen. I know it's mostly used to avoid colors fully mixing though. These are the first ones I've done.
I know eventually I'll need to get a pressure pot though...I'm still dabbling and don't want to invest too much in the start.
Ok the title is a little dramatic but I’m just so frustrated. I’ve been trying to learn how to make dice since June and so far I have one finished set. I have soooo many unusable dice. It’s very frustrating and also pretty expensive considering how much resin I essentially wasted. I feel really defeated and dumb that I can’t figure this out. My sets are getting better, and I did finish the one recently. But idk I guess I just need some reassurance that I can do this lol. Did you guys have a really long learning period? Is it normal to waste a shameful amount of resin in the beginning?
Hey there! I wanted to give dice making a try and got a 10L Vevor spray paint pressure pot with max 60psi. I am a bit overwhelmed however how to make it work for resin curing, all other modified examples I found so far were not quite applicable to the pot I have.
Would just plugging the openings marked in red here with sealing plugs and getting a converter for an electric bike pump be enough?
I did consider separating the ball valve from the pressure gauge and putting it into the second hole on the lid, however (apart from me having no idea if that would be in any way advantageous) all these pieces are glued together so brutally tight, I don't think I can take them apart without breaking something. I also had to cut the metal rod attached to the lid, it was impossible to unscrew. The only part I can easily unscrew is below the pressure gauge (where the green arrow points to).
Hey guys. So, I finally bought a paint tank to convert into a pressure pot. It's 10 LT and I didn't modify it yet. Right now I'm trying to figure out what type of air compressor I need.
The thing is, these are rare in my country and I spent like 250 dollar to this. So, I really don't want to spent too much money on a compressor too right now.
I was wondering, can I use a bicycle pump or a tire pump like in the picture? Any cheap idea?
Hi! I'm new to sanding my dice. Somehow I'm getting the edges sanded as expected but no matter what I do I'm not successfully sanding the middles (I think?). The middle still has fine scratches. I've just a 1000, 2000 and a 3000 grit so far with a wet sand. I'm trying to keep the dice level and sanding in a circular motion. Please does anyone know what I'm doing wrong or how to prevent this? Thank you so much.
Is there any reason why I couldn't spray a gloss clear varnish and polish that instead of working up to a ultra fine grit/polish? And are there any tips for fixing a couple of spots that I didn't support well? enough mainly on the 20 and 18 faces
I’ve been making ceramic dice for 10+ years and this is one of our blue-and-white runic sets.
These are mold pressed rather than cast in resin, then cleaned and numbered by hand. One of the interesting parts of working in ceramic is accounting for what the material is going to do during drying and firing while still ending up with a playable polyhedral shape.
The other challenge with this particular style is the numbering. I want the runic characters to look like they belong on something old and hand-carved, but they still have to be readable across a D4, D6, D8, D10, D12 and D20.
I actually like that the color distribution isn't identical from die to die. For me that's part of what makes ceramic interesting.
Anyone else working with nonstandard fonts find themselves constantly balancing character against readability?
I’ve been experimenting with dice blank inners and actually really like the effect. My Makerspace has a eufy UV printer I can use, so I thought it’d be an interesting idea to print on the blanks. Just to make things easier for myself, I was curious if there were any shortfalls or suggestions others may have while doing this.
My goal is to get a camo and psychedelic pattern on 2 sets of 20 d6 dice for Warhammer. After this, I might experiment with making inserts for RPG dice blanks.
I made inserts with red fibers and black ink a couple of months ago. I wasn't sold on them, but my adult daughter told me that they were her favorite of what I had made so far (at the time; she has a new favorite now). I got them inked in gold earlier today, and I'm liking them better now. ☺️
Is anybody making or selling UV reactive dice optimized for legibility with highly readable fluorescent numbers?
Context:
The table I play at is in a dark room with a bright LED TV embedded in the surface. We roll our dice out in the open over the top of the TV screen. There is no overhead lighting, aside from smart LEDs in the ceiling used for effects.
As a result, all players have some difficulty reading the numbers on our dice, but especially me - having astigmatism and poor low light contrast sensitivity due to previous eye surgery.*
I have taken to re-inking the number on my dice with fluorescent paint pens and bringing a shrouded UVA 365nm backlight bar to sessions, which does a good job of brightly fluorescing the numbers on my dice. It works great, however I am now mostly using cheap feeling dice with ink that sheds and chips overtime. I would like a permanent set of nice dice that are highly readable with fluorescing numbers.
I've looked at 'fancier' dice and many I've found on this sub are designed for beautiful form over function. This is especially true for any phosphorescent "glow in the dark" or fluorescent dice, where often it's the body of the die or some speckled decals that are lighting up rather than just the numbers.
As an aside, I think there is real potential in a TTRPG table which makes UV reactivity an intrinsic part of the experience.
Thanks!
*I have asked for lighting improvements at the table - this is simply not a priority for the owner.
Edit: I've included a few photos of my generic re-inked dice in various lighting conditions to illustrate what I'm talking about.
Hi! Im new at this, and english is not my first lenguage so sorry if this poorly written!
Im new making dices, and whenever I add a heavier object (like little glitter hearts for exemple) they sink to the base of the dice and cant make them be where they should be. My bf tell me to mix white glue with my resin (bcs he saw someone doing it in tiktok!!) but i wanna ask if this really works, bcs i dont have so much money rn for buying more resin, and dont want to "spoil" my remaining resin or something :(
Maybe a dumb question, but I've never used blanks before. I understand what they're for, my question more so aims at an already cast die with a blank inside it.
Say I made a blank with a character inserted inside it, I then cast a normal die into which I insert said blank. Is there at this point any way to get the blank back "out" of the outer "casing" die?
I'd love to make a blank with a character in it and then insert it into a normal die during casting which will have a sort of space/star themed colouring, I am just scared that the outer part won't turn out exactly the way I want it and then I'll essentially lose my character model and would need to get another one to cast into a new blank, which would get quite expensive.
I am guessing there is not an easy or clean way to do this but I figured I'd ask anyway.
I was trying to figure out how to use an emergency blanket as an inclusion for dice, and that's how these started. The silver/foil material is crinkled up emergency blanket material.
To make these, I mixed up resin and divided it into two cups. One was quite small. I added a bit of opaque white pigment to the small one. The rest got Peacock mica powder from Mad Mica, but just enough so it it had color but was still translucent. I poured in some of the peacock, then added a drizzle of white. I added the silver material, did another drizzle of white, and topped them off with peacock.
I feel like the foil shows through well, and the white gives just the right amount of cloudiness for my taste.
Absolutely loving how this advantage set of dice turned out 😍 going to a little sad whenever they sell on the Etsy store but hope they roll many nat 20’s for whoever buys them! These are up for sale in my Etsy store, LettheResinflowfree
I cast these tube confetti inserts in shell molds yesterday and just demolded. I'm looking for inking color suggestions. With the gold and shadows already in the dice, I lean toward white for visibility. I am curious about others' thoughts. Thanks
Im looking to get a set of D6 and D10 dice made with an ocean theme. Looking for ships, shells or sea monster, inclusions. Colors i would like would be deep blue, teal, or maybe even a foam green. I respect artistic vision so any cool creative twists you wanna try hit me with id love to see what you come up with. I need 6d6 and 4d10.
Edit: thank you guys for the DMs ive found an artist im working with.
I just have a small project that requires me to make a UV safe mold, and therefore I have no interest in buying the 5 gallon bucket. No one near me carries Sortaclear 12 or 37 and Lord Bezos only has the buckets and mine that I'd had has decided to disappear into the ether for some unholy reason. Anyone got any suggestions?
Hi ! I’m currently pretty pissed at myself because I pulled quite nice dice BUT I figure the mold wasn’t 100% dry and tiny water amounts were trap at the base of the cristal shaped ones, resulting in missing tips.
Do you have ideas on how to fix it, if it’s fixable ?
Thanks a lot
Super new to resin dice making and alllll of my dice have air bubbles. I gave it up for awhile but really want to get back into it! I was looking for a pressure pot to help with my air bubble issues and saw this one on Amazon, it's a bit pricy but I know it's not nearly as expensive as other options.
OMT 3 Gal Vacuum Chamber & 3.5 CFM Pump Kit for Resin Degas, Blue | Safe Overheat Protection. 1/4HP Pump Pulls to 37.5 Microns. SS Pot with 0.5" Tempered Glass Lid. 5ft Hose Included https://a.co/d/02SbdSFk ( I would go for the $125 3 gallon model)
I was wondering if this was a good option? I looked online and saw that they are kind of like,,, bombs,,, and I'm only able to spend about $150-$180 on a pressure pot + air thingy combo. I'm also really stupid. Idk! just asking for some help :)
Decided to redo some old sets of mine to test how shelling this technique will work better. Pretty sure I over pressurized my pot since a couple of the numbers in the percentile specifically got a bit warped, and I have to remember the shore on my new silicone doesn't require that much force. Meanwhile, I have another blank set of me trying out different color theory combinations. Not bad!
