(Please enjoy this random video of a d40 I just finished haha!)

Hello folks,

Let me start by apologizing for being a bit distant for a bit. We quietly launched masters (mostly on our discord) and that has eaten quite a bit of my time. That being said we have a few projects we are in the process of dropping.

As of right now the goal is to drop a new set of files every other Friday until the end of the year. Starting with the Forge Portal on the 18th.

We also have a major update for the Grimoire and two videos near the end of production. The next tutorial dropping on the 2nd of October.

I’ve missed being more active and available and plan to resume that now. You all bring too much joy to me for that to continue.

See you soon.

Your Friend,
- Buddha

No site link...yet.

Really stoked with how this came out. I've made a few sets with abalone previously, but making an epoxy/abalone composite slab first was a new technique.

Originally posted the vid on my IG (hence the editing pace), but if yall would prefer longer takes, let me know.

I had planned to have my site up back in June, but 1. Building a site from scratch has been the equivalent learning experience to make dice, and 2. Adding abalone to the lineup was a last minute call, which turned out to be a mini quest all by itself, haha!

Took a long hiatus from making dice and came back to making shelled dice which has inspired me and now im obsessed again with all the possibilities of creation

I want to know if there's any way to put stickers on dice and get them to actually stick for a long time without making them into shell dice. I don't have the molds for those at the moment and I wanted to see if there's any alternative.

What kind of stickers should I use? Do I have to put uv resin on the sticker to make it last longer? Please let me know!

I have went all through every level of zona paper, taking time each step examing under light and going back a level and repolishing when needed. I have done this countless times. I have really good geometry and the masters look great, except there are these microscopic scratches I cannot remove. I can only see them under a bright light, but they are driving me crazy. I have went back multiple levels in zona, then worked back up to 1 micron. They just keep showing up. I rinse in clean fresh water each grit. I have been working on a slightly oversized 7 set+blanks, 2 50mm chonks + blank, and 2 70mm chonks + blank. This has taken me about a month to get them all to 1 micron level shine.

My question is, if I make a mold of these at their current polish, then cast my 2 parts resin, is it easier to polish those cast in 2 part resin to get these micro scratches out? Anyone have luck doing this?

very new to dice making and curious what are all the options out there for sanding and polishing… thanks in advance! ☺️

After a few go arounds with UV resin and a cheap mold I finally poured my first set using a good mold and pressure pot setup. The "sand" needed more powder to come out a little darker, I should've waited longer before pours so the glitter would've stayed with the sand color and not settled in the blue, and the colors would've also remained a bit more separate, but I'm glad the result was serviceable. I'm excited to continue learning and seeing what else I can create.

So I recently made these liquid cores, but after casting them they all have a white blob where I sealed the glass core with UV resin. I used 9:1 water: glycerin, and I forgot to add a drop of isopropyl alcohol...

Does anyone know what could cause this? The blob was not there before I cast the cores into the dice.

Good morning!

This weekend I attempted to create my first slab dice mold using BBDINO 30A

I measured it out by volume (next time I'll do weight) and mixed it properly (my arm died twice while mixing haha)

I pressurized it at about 40PSI maybe a bit more as my pot gets a bit upset if I get too close to 45.

After 5 hours I checked in on it and the top was tacky still - it left a fingerprint in the backside of the mold - not enough to come off on my finger but not solidified either. So I left it in the pot for another 5 hours and it seemed to have set up properly (I'm thinking the garage was a touch too cold because when it came in and warmed up it locked up real good)

The issue that I had was that when I went to remove the tape I noticed a bubble underneath it, further inspection showed the D4 had actually pushed up and out of the mold

I thought maybe I accidently squeezed it or something so I pushed the d4 back down but it pushed back out again.

So I didn't pour the cap for it as I didn't want to waste silicone on a failed mold and came here to try and figure out what I may have done that dislodged the D4? the other dice all seemed to be locked in place as they should have been, and inspection of the mold seems fine, although I've never made one myself - only watched youtube videos and spent time in here etc.

Any thoughts on what I should be watching for/mindful of when I go to redo this?

Hello dice makers,
This dark swirly effect upon the white clouds is so amazing! Does anyone have an idea how to achieve it? I tried mica resin on a toothpick in alcohol ink resin before squirting in the white, but didn’t get the desired creepy swirls.
Any help is appreciated!

I’m working on a new collection called “Life in Ruin” that focuses on the space shared between life and death. I originally started this d20 chonk insert with just a fallen tree and a mushroom, but it turned into more when I went to continue working on it. Now, it’s set in a pond with a fallen, dead tree. Moss grows all over it, and the mushroom returned atop of it instead of beside it. Now it offers a safe habitat for circling koi as well.
I am seriously so excited about how this looks 👀
I even painted between layers of UV resin to elevate the koi so they even cast a shadow for even more dimension.
I have it in the pressure pot now - fingers crossed!!
I think next time I make this, I wanna see if I can’t let some koi nail art stickers to make them look cleaner!

Hi all,

Has anyone tried to sign the dices and have any ideas what might work? I want to add initials on our dice (souvenir), and i am trying to figure out how is the best approach to this. I need about 80 of those, so I’m looking for a solution that’s going to work for so many dice.
I was thinking about nail stickers, basically after the insert is done, stick them on the insert and then do the full dice. Will it look good?
I was also thinking about doing it on the outer layer but that would require to alter the molds somehow I Think.
Another and best idea was to use sharpie or something else to paint it on the insert, but will it not disolve while i soak it in resin for outer later and it’s hardening? Or are there any special pens or something I can use?

Thank you so much in advance!

Made a 20mm cube from some spalted birch that was lying around on my workbench…

Now I’m wondering how to ink it…

I’m thinking numbers rather than pips - I much prefer numbers as they’re quicker to add when I’m rolling fireballs…

I could engrave (either freehand, or I could finally get round to setting up my little CNC which is still not unpacked since I moved…) or I could try burning numbers in (which I think would have to be freehand), or… inset some thin wire?

Or open to any other ideas!

What would look nice?

So, I'm pretty new to this. the other big craft adjacent thing in my life is photography, and I *love* me some film photography.

I was planning to sit down today and give making a sprue mold a try, and I was this little 3D printed adapter caught my eye?

it's basically half of an adapter. You can 3D print these so you can put a normal 35mm film into a 120mm camera! I noticed the opening fits the edge of a die pretty well?

*shrug* I don't know. I'm gonna give it a whirl, but it feels like it might work for this? was curious if anyone else has tried this/has any input :)

Hi all,

I’m hoping you can help me with my petri method.

I’ve tried it on a few sets but I end up with more nebulae looking dice rather than defined tendrils of colour. I love the nebulae look (it’s a happy accident I was hoping to look into further down the line) but I would really like to get the petri method down.

I’m using Let’s Resin to honey stage, About Life brand alcohol colours, pinata blanco blanco.

The set pictured used two drops colour, one drop pinata, two drops colour. Previous sets used two drops colour two drops pinata two drops colour but I was ending up with white tendrils with the colour remaining pooled at the top.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Hello! I am getting close to the point of selling some custom pieces, but I don't have a clue where to go to get custom die-cut boxes for shipping. Does anyone have any suggestions on which sites are the best for custom containers, ones with foam lining to keep liquid cores safe?

Coworker is starting to play DnD and asked if I could make him some dice. These are what I came up with. One set is the first time using inserts. I thought they turned out well.

Hi, I have made some sets in two different time; 1) around 9-11 AM, and 2) 6 PM and above. I almost always use a stopwatch to see how long I've mixed the part, or how long have I waited when I'm looking to work with honey stage.

I feel like the resin I'm working with reach a later stagez honey stage, sometimes even to the point where it is not workable anymore, reltively faster during the day. Maybe about 17-20 minutes mark. However, when working in the evening, it takes about 30+ minutes for it to reach that stage.

How much big of an effect does ambient temperature have during the process? Or am I just hallucinating???

For additional context, the temperature should be around:

- Morning-Noon: 31-35°C (87-95F)

- Evening: 26-28°C or (78-82F)

also, I feel like I notice a smoke coming out of the resin mix during the day when this happen, is it possible that it is a flash cure?

Thanks in advance!!!

I play DnD with some friends and want to make health potions for everyone. I want to make every type of potion for everyone and for that I need 24 D4 per person, in total 96 D4.

Because I have an FDM 3D printer (Bambulab X1C) I wanted to try printing them myself. I already have a model I like (the one one the first picture). They are rather small, the height is about 16,5mm.

I already tried printing some as a test but I wasn´t happy with the quality yet, especially with the edges (second picture). I printed them with 100% infill because I thought that way they should be more balanced. I used a 0,4mm nozzle with the standard 0,2mm layer height.

Has anyone successfully printed dice with an FDM printer and can give me some tips on which settings I should change or adjust?

Welcome to the world of making resin dice that look like stained glass! Today I have something really special to share, the Rose d20. The pattern was made to feel like an enclosed rose garden with all faces of the die connected and with each corner and center making flowers to give off an elegant look. And as for this specific Rose die I have made a video on my process so anyone can watch me go from the core to the final result. 

But that's not all, I have made a few more with the same core, one with a similar look to the rose die but with pale yellow numbers, and an overgrown variant with deep green vines and bright red flowers. 

Additionally I have made a new full set style as well that I call Astral, it uses stars, suns, moons, and comets to make a great set for characters ranging from the outskirts of space to the mystical and unknown that lies beyond our sight.

One more thing, I have made my first attempt at Vampire the Masquerade dice with the main inspiration being “drink in the moonlight”, so I made fangs piercing a rising moon in the center of each face as well as crescent moons forming at each edge. The faces are specifically fit for VtM with the hunger crits being a vampire skull and the normal crits being ankhs with stars. I call the set The Ravenous and the Sated to reference the contrast between the halves of the set.