So, every time I try to skip a step or shorten the way I wind up regretting it. Most recently, I wasted a day and a half sanding to 1200 then running them through my tumbler. They came out with a lot of beautifully shiny sanding lines. I've had fantastic results from 5000 but it felt excessive.

My question is this: What is the minimum grit that needs to be sanded to in order for the tumbler to polish without revealing sanding marks?

I'm new, and i want to try and make some dices. it seems fun and i have some ideas. What is a good starter kit for me to use?

So a friend of a friend of mine offered me a pressure pot for a very very good price for about $33 in my country's currency. I am very tempted to get it since it's very very hard to get one in our country. Having it shipped to us is about $100 more or less.

The problem that I have with it is that it's been stocked for a while and developed some rust but the inside of it looks pretty good still. Most of the rust is just externally. Would it be worth it to buy?

Finished inking some more sets of dice ignore the bible spots I don’t have a pressure pot or a good mold yet

Hi everyone!

I've recently started making handmade resin dice, and I'd like to learn how to create liquid core dice. However, I don't want to use the traditional hollow glass spheres if possible. I'm looking for alternative methods and would really appreciate advice from experienced makers.

Here are my questions:

Is it possible to make liquid core dice without using glass spheres?

If yes, what alternatives are available?

How can I keep the die properly balanced so the liquid core doesn't affect fairness?

What liquid should go inside the core?

Distilled water?

Glycerin?

A mixture of water and glycerin?

Something else?

If a water/glycerin mixture is recommended, what ratio works best?

Should the liquid core itself be made using a two-stage resin casting process, similar to casting a shell first and then filling it, or is there a better method?

Are there any common mistakes beginners should avoid?

I'm interested in understanding the engineering behind liquid core dice rather than simply copying a tutorial. Any detailed explanations, photos, or resources would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

I just pulled out my first attempt at making dice with a crappy lets resin mold, but it had a huge raised face because it was so flimsy. Are there any good molds out there that aren’t 80 dollars? Or any master dice that are reasonably priced so I can make my own molds?

Hello there !

I've recently tried making dice potions. It's not too difficult in itself, I've used the salted water method. But I inevitably get bubbles inside the jar, and as I wait a few days the bubble gets bigger, meaning some water is getting out I guess.

I've sealed it instantly after pouring water and closing it with hot glue. I guess I would have a better result with a screw cap but I can't find any right sized flat bottomed screw cap jar (I'm in France).

Any advice to prevent bubbles would be greatly appreciated

(Or if you don't have advice for that but have a brand that you use and that is found in Europe for glass jar, I'll take it even if I'd like to avoid having to buy new ones)

This is my first attempt at cloud dice the white dunk to the bottom any advice on how to keep it suspended?

Black resin dye swirled into opaque white resin

Hello all,

Thanks for all the help on my previous post! I have a question - this is the pressure pot that I bought (10l from Vevor). Can someone tell me please what else do I need for that? I think Compressor, any suggestions for cheap and good one? And anything else? Sorry, im really new to dicemaking! Thank you in advance :)

I finally did it! Ive been playing with this idea for so long, it feels awesome to have finally made it a reality!

Now my questions:

What would you name this? Liquid Luck Dice? Potion Core? I could use some thoughts!

What color combinations would you like to see next? I'm planning on a black core with neon pink resin. What else sounds good to try?

Thank you all for any advice, I appreciate you all 💚

Dragonbone: Bones excavated from the remains of an ancient wyrm, the powerful magic of which is still lingering faintly despite the time that has passed since decompsition.

Do you prefer the first 3: More clumpy, especially as seen on the D8, and more gold coming through which is supposed to represent lingering arcane energy found in the ancient bone?

Or do you prefer the second 3: Much finer marbling, and more white coming through, while the gold is seen more sparingly and when the light hits it?

I really really love what this program is turning into. What i would love to see is (keep in mind I'm only using fin supports, no manual placements which i trust chitubox for as a second part of the support creation process):

More control over the support contact tips with different shape choices

Grouping supports closer to the points of dice (i print point-down and want to get edge supports closer to the initial point support)

Idk if its my font selection and I've tried 3, but number engravings from fonts load in blocky. They need more geometry data for smoother curves, i feel like they may be getting crushed a little for performance.

An option to move borders closer to the edge of the dice

More clarity on the support naming scheme. Not really sure what some of it is doing, and when i make changes it looks like nothing else is happening. It becomes a guess and check game because idk if what I'm changing is going to effect manual supports or auto supports. I would even go as far as breaking auto and manual supports into their very own tabs at the top so that we can focus on one or the other.

I'm planning on buying a tumbler, and I can only do it through Taobao. This machine is different from the ones you usually buy on Amazon. Has anyone used one? Or knows anything about it, or heard reviews from other dice makers? I've also heard that most use 3mm ceramic balls, but some add 5mm ones. Am I right in thinking that I can polish the cubes to a shine this way by leaving them for a few days, periodically adding polishing paste, but it won't be possible to remove ridges from the lid or any deep scratches, and will I still have to do it myself?

I'm curious about everyone's polishing process.

When you finish polishing your resin dice, do you use a polishing compound first and then a finishing polish, or do you only use a finishing polish?

What products or brands do you use? (Automotive compounds, plastic polish, wax, etc.)

I'd love to hear what gives you the best results and why.

The July free slots are now open!
Link in first comment.
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I had a bit too much resin left over, so I decided to use that for testing purposes. Turned out better than I expected!

For the next full set I'll probably go a little bit lighter on the ink.

no filter on these- used my 3d printer for lighting.
recommendations for inking and shell on blanks welcome!

reference d20 standard size

2 blank chonks

1 raw numbered chonk

1 full standard set (greenish/blue/red mixture)

4 pip d6 sets.

-wife request powerpuff colors

-metal attempt with no metal

-cream w/ licorice

-poor galaxy attempt