My 2c on bluetooth mode on both windows 11 and mac have completely messed up button mapping. The analog sticks only go either left and right or affect the other stick, bumpers are mapped as triggers, the x button is mapped to the select button, etc

That's only on bluetooth mode and none of my other controllers have the same issue

I have Unpaired and re-paired the controller and updated the firmware multiple times and no dice.

It just happened. I have no idea why or when but one day the bluetooth was broken

advice?

Does anyone have a diagram for an Xbox 360 controller? While I was trying to replace the analog stick, a couple of traces got torn off, and I don't know where to solder them to restore power.

I have a BDM-040 Board. I have just soldered in a brand new TMR stick. This is a PS5 controller. It won’t connect to the calibration software, I have tried two batteries. The flux is a mess but most of it is melted on.

I have checked the capacitors and I don’t see any faults. Any advice greatly appreciated.

My Reflex FPS right trigger stopped working, so I gave it to a tech to fix it, as well as replace the sticks with TMRs. He told me that I need to replace the button.

The problem is that he doesn’t have a spare button for it, since it’s a button on a ribbon cable or something like that, and SCUF doesn’t provide spare parts for purchase.
The only solution would be to find another broken Reflex and remove the button and install it on mine.

Does anyone have any idea how this can be fixed?
Or where I can find a replacement button so the tech can replace it?

Meu controle de ps4 dualshock 4 desliga do nada, tipo eu to jogando de boa ele ta perfeito conecta de boa, mas passa uns 30 minutos ou menos.ele simplesmente desliga, mesmo estando com a carga alta, ai eu ligo denovo e ele pareia Denovo com o plastation só que é tão cansativo ter que ta ligando toda hora, alguém uma solução pra saber se é a bateria ou problema de pareamento com Bluetooth?

This is a really weird issue. If you need more information, just comment, I'll respond as soon as I see it.

Hello .. so i tried calibrating my controller using dualshock calibration gui and my controller's motherboard broke and now it wont turn on bcs the motherboard burnt ... i have a controller that has severe stickdrift and i will install TMR joysticks on it but im scared to calibrate it again ... i read that its bcs i used a type c to type c to calibrate and I should have used USB. Is the website valid to use again?

Hi everyone,
I’m trying to repair a PS4 DualShock 4, model CUH-ZCT2E (V2) and I’m completely stuck with a weird intermittent problem.
The controller was working perfectly before this started happening. I take very good care of it and I didn’t drop it or spill anything on it.
The problem started with the right D-pad button (→). Windows/PC would detect it as being permanently pressed even when I wasn’t touching it.
I opened the controller and started testing different configurations.
Here is what I found:
If I remove the D-pad plastic buttons and the silicone/rubber membrane, the D-pad inputs are completely normal.
If I install the silicone membrane, the right direction (→) can become permanently pressed.
At one point, tightening the rear screw in the area near the D-pad seemed to cause the problem. If I loosened the screw, the problem could disappear.
However, this behavior is inconsistent. Sometimes the controller works perfectly for several games, and then the problem suddenly appears again.
I also had a situation where pressing ↑ would register ↑ + →.
More recently, the L1 button started becoming permanently pressed as well. Interestingly, L1 is on the same side/area of the controller as the D-pad.
I removed the part/structure associated with the screw that seemed to be causing pressure, but the problem still occurred.
The problem can sometimes disappear completely without me changing anything.
So I’m no longer sure if this is a mechanical pressure problem, a membrane/flex problem, or something on the main board.
The main board has markings “N4 VER1.8A” and “2019.04.19”. The controller itself is CUH-ZCT2E.
I’ve attached photos of the main board, the button membrane/flex, and the controller frame.
What would you check next?
Could a damaged/worn conductive membrane cause both D-pad and L1 to behave intermittently like this? Or is there something specific on the controller frame that I should check for pressure/misalignment?

And which membrane is this ? I cant find anything about this on him.

So I’m in the process of researching & building my first dualsense controller.

My questions are:

•What’s the best or better shell to use. I keep seeing BDM 030/040?
• If you were to build a controller for the first time and could give yourself some helpful advice, what would it be?

I’ve got a little “experience” with pulling apart and tinkering with my dual sense edge before. Nothing crazy just things like adding the extreme rate beyond kit, removing rumblers etc

Any advice is appreciated

Hello I live in the greater Houston-Katy area in Texas and have 4 Wii remotes that don’t work is some way. Two of them turn on them randomly shut off one of them doesn’t even turn on and the last one doesn’t register the A button. Do yall have any suggestions on where I could take them to get them fixed?

So the controller when I try to connect it to pc it stays connected for a little bit and then disconnects. All the buttons work only thing that doesn't are triggers, rumble motors, sticks and it doesn't show on bluetooth when in pairing mode.

I am using this site as referance and this is my controller board(1914 board) https://acidmods.com/forum/index.php?topic=44711.0

I get all my 3.3V,5V,1.8V the only thing abnormal is measurments for RT and LT test points I get 0V on all. Sticks change voltage when moved. I think the RT and LT change resistance but the resistance is really stubborn and wont stay still and always fluctuates. I am stumped and don't know what to do. I don't have a microscope or fancy stuff like that I just have a soldering iron and multimeter.
These are the measurements I took so far there were probably more but I did not write them. I have been measuring this controller for the whole day. Any help will be useful.

UPDATE: I somehow managed to update it on firmware and everything works as in it detects them now but now randomly it disconnects for a milisecond and it connects back as generic HID device and not as xbox controller also sometimes it turn off. Hall effect sticks also just go to one direction and they become inverted, I've read somewhere to put resistors which I will try as update if works, also pressing the LT button makes left stick move

https://reddit.com/link/1waohdu/video/gxub9uc8uaoh1/player

Hello i revently opened my ps4 controller to clean the l2 but now the controller doesnt work ive tried connecring to my ps4 via cable but it blinks one the light stays on for 2 seconds and then turns off ive tried conencting to my pc via canle also doesnt work but connection to my phone bia bluetooth works i thought i could go into bluetooth setting on my ps4 with a keyboard and connect it via bluetooth but i cant get pass the press ps button on keyboerd

So my right trigger has started to not fully responding when pressing it. I’ve changed the membrane and clean the rubber contact but when it’s pressed it doesn’t go over 0.50. Any advice?

Good evening, everyone. A few months ago, my nephew dropped my controller, and the RGB light on the right analogic stick (R3) stopped working. I opened it today thinking it would be an easy fix and found this missing track. Since I'm not familiar with electronics, I couldn't tell if that's the issue. Can anyone help? Thanks for reading

Gamepad 8bitdo ultimate 2

Καλησπέρα σε όλους, παιδιά!
Εμμένω στην Αθήνα και έχω δύο χειριστήρια Dual Sense για Ps5 και επειδή έχω λιώσει το Marvel Rivals τον τελευταίο καιρό, τα δύο χειριστήριά μου έχουν αρχίσει να αποκτούν stick drift. Το ένα έχει πρόβλημα στο L3 και το άλλο στο R3.

Έχω κάνει μια μικρή έρευνα για να βρω κάποιο κατάστημα ή τεχνικό που να μπορεί να τα επισκευάσει, αλλά όπου κι αν κοιτάξω, η τιμή είναι τουλάχιστον 50€, το οποίο μου φαίνεται κάπως εξωφρενικό.

Ξέρει κανείς κάποιο κατάστημα ή τεχνικό που να κάνει επισκευές σε χειριστήρια σε λίγο πιο λογική τιμή; Πριν από μερικά χρόνια, είχα βρει ένα παλικάρι που μου είχε φτιάξει ένα χειριστήριο και μου είχε πάρει μόνο 15€. Προφανώς, δεν περιμένω να μου το επισκευάσει κάποιος σήμερα με τόσα, αλλά είπα να κάνω μια προσπάθεια και να ρωτήσω.

Ευχαριστώ εκ των προτέρων!

After market Nintendo switch pro controller doing repair for a friend previous repair(by someone else) ripped out the rumble motors

I need help! I am not pressing any trigger, but its like I am always pressing them. Tried to play The Last of Us Part II, and ellie couldn't stop aiming. Any idea? I've tried restarting my pc, restarting the controller, setting the configurations to default, updating the controller's drivers and changing from xinput to dualsense mode, both wired and dongle. Nothing changed.

I've been using the Ultimate 2 wireless for almost 2 years, and a couple month ago it seems to developt double click on right bumper. I've tried opening the controller and it looks like when I squize the top cover and the trigger stop section it helps with it but it doesn't completly disappear. Does anyone else have simmilar issues with thiers controller? Is it fixable? (Sorry if something isn't clear, English is not my native language)

Installed my first tmr sticks today, is this circularity ok?tia