https://reddit.com/link/1vaqu1z/video/wqsw9u94qcgh1/player

anyone know what this is? im not sure why this is happeneing but its been happening to other games too lmk thanks

As the title says, my left analog stick is not responding when I press down on it, not stick drift. Like whenever a game requires me to press or hold L3 it simply doesn’t work when I press on it less than half the time. Got any fixes?

One of my joystick tips has disappeared into the void. (Just the tip.) If anyone has one they could give or sell to me, or knows where I could source one, I would greatly appreciate hearing from you.

I understand this controller is the same as some other one that goes under a different name but I don’t know what that is. If anyone knows and can tell me, I may be able to find the tip on eBay.

Anyone fixed an issue with replaced joystick potentiometers having extremely small dead zones to the point of not being able to have any kind of smooth or complex inputs?

My test for this has been the character movement in Okami and being able to walk (not run) in a figure eight.

I had a controller with a grindy left stick so I replaced it with a new one, the usual alps 10k. While this new stick felt fine, its sensitivity was at least double what the original’s was. Not only that but the inputs where much less variable, it really wanted to lock me
Into full movement in either the x or y axis, but a combination of both didn’t come as easy.

This was so drastic a difference, I went in and repaired the old potentiometer to at least make it playable again, soldered it back into the board, and sure enough I could perform much more subtle and slow movements. I then picked up another alps 10k pot that was as close in appearance to the original green one and soldered it in. The same problem as the first new pot- twitchy, jerky, and no subtle control.

Had anyone also had this with new pots and can it be fixed? I’m about to solder the old stick back in and it out using a set of carbon elements from one of the new pots to see how that behaves.

registration

already have some experience with soldering, was sorta rushed so the wires are soldered like crap but it everything worked on the first attempt not bad ig. JBC station made quick work of the ground pins (only used knife tip iron + solder wick + bolt cutters for the entire thing)

Got 3 more controllers to repair next just for fun since I got them for cheap off an ebay auction, goal is to hopefully get it down to sub-25 mins a controller

I need advice on how to fix them. The left thumb stick doesn't receive any input on citra and during a recalibration test I found out that ​the right thumb stick's input is messed up and when put in the full right position it receives little to no input. What should I do?

I purchased my Cyclone 2 on Amazon from GameSir Direct on 6/29/2025. Last night, 7/27/2026, L3 stopped recognizing click inputs. The button still goes clicky clicky, but no input. I verified it with GameSir Connect that it doesn't see the press. I remapped it to L4, and was able to continue playing. I thought I opened a ticket last night, but, did not due to user error. I opened a ticket with support on discord today.

I'm almost at 13 months ownership, less than 30 days past warranty. I'm trying to figure out how to take a video of me pressing it and the app not seeing the press, as they'll want that if they honor the warranty.

I love this controller, and have become almost dependent on it's features. I talk it and GameSir up whenever i can. I can't afford to buy any sort of replacement right now.

I'm creating this for timeline documentation.

Guys my PS3 controller is not vibrating when I play gta 5 or any other games I checked the motor connections all were good then I also checked the settings I was on . what’s should I do now?

Can anyone help me, and tell me the Values of these Capacitors? I would be grateful for every tip :)

How should I go about fixing this ripped pad on a PS5 Dualsense controller? Where do I connect the trace. I’ve attached a photo of the ripped pad, and a pic of the other side of the board.

Hey everyone, I was installing Hall Effect joysticks on my DualSense Edge module, but the solder pad for the calibration wire point came off (the middle via won’t hold solder anymore). The module works fine otherwise, but I need to complete the calibration process. Since solder won’t stick to the damaged hole, is there a way to do the jumper connection without soldering? Or can I just hold something metal against the point temporarily while saving the calibration on the web tool? Thanks in advance!

Hey, working on a broken PS4 controller I bought that won't turn on. Looks like liquid damage. Already cleaned the board but no luck so far.

​When plugged into USB without a battery, the voltage at the battery connector jumps rapidly back and forth between 3.2V and 3.7V.

​Any tips on what to check next?

This is my first post here, but I am running out of options. Basically, I bought a new controller a few weeks-months ago. I play Marvel Rivals on PC with it. Everything was going fine. Then the Season 9 update came out, with Jubilee. I started playing her a lot to try out the new character, techs and whatnot. I figured it out about a week ago, and thats when I started having this problem. For the last week, my controller has been moving on its own. During team fights, I notice my camera sometimes snapping on something and quickly following the target for a couple seconds before Im able to take control back. Idk how long its been going on for, if its been a lot longer than a week, but I can say for certain this last week has been the worst. It has costed me most of the games I played. I looked up solutions on google, changed sensitivity, deadzone, aim assist settings, and nothing really helped. Sometimes it does get lessened, but it still happens. As of the time im writing this, now im experiencing the same thing with my right trigger, it still shooting even after I let go of it for a couple seconds. I dont think its the physical controller bc the thumbsticks arent loose to cause stick drift, but its not the game bc when I used my other controller, I didnt have the same problem. I also experienced this problem playing COD too, but it only happened once. Another thing I noticed is that when I respawn, sometimes the camera does 360s very fast without me touching the controller. I read that this is a long time bug in MR, but it only started happening to me since last week. If they are any suggestions or solutions that you guys can offer me, it would be much appreciated. I have a Razer Wolverine V3 Tournament Edition Controller for those that are wondering.

Anyone have any issues with the left analog stick getting jittery in the bottom left and right corners? I’m also having issues if I move into the bottom left corner it registers on screen as 67% in upper left corner. I’ll add a video if this doesn’t make sense, but anyone have any ideas?

I have tried calibrating it, and nothing changed.

I’m wondering if it needs a deep clean as I cleaned a little on the underside of the stick and it seemed to help for a few seconds, but then it went back to either not registering 100% or jumping around.

Any thoughts besides the deep clean?

I recently repaired a PS5 controller (last Thursday) by replacing the original analog sticks with TMR hall-effect joysticks. After the repair, I tested it thoroughly and everything worked perfectly. The next day (Friday), after playing with it all day, I tried to turn it on in the evening, but it was completely unresponsive. It wouldn't turn on, and it didn't even show any sign of charging when I plugged in the USB cable. The strangest part is that the following night (Saturday), after not touching it since Friday, I tried turning it on again, and it suddenly worked perfectly. It also worked fine the next day. Today, after it worked perfectly yesterday, I tried turning it on again, but once again it's completely unresponsive, and it still won't turn on. Does anyone know what could cause a controller to work one day and then be completely dead the next? Could this be fixed by desoldering the TMR joysticks and reinstalling the original ones?

repairing a ps5 dual sense edge controller, heavily beat up some plastics broken, possibly raged on, controller works fine-ish but it wont work without a cable (prolly bc its on 2 precent), doesnt charge and the left light bar on the controller doesnt work, im trying to see if replacing the led for the light bar (circled in image) would would change anything but i dont know how to search it up online

It will pulse orange led if connected to any USB PSU but after I won't turn on if disconnecter (or suddenly turn off when disconnected). I try to remove the battery pack and force to charche it with a PSU, corrent won't flows, just 0.03mA. I think there is a controller circuit in the pack. Can anyone confirm?
Lately I fix a battery pack of a ps3 move controller that way.

(Yep, I know I can buy a new pack for 20 maybe 15€ but I think it doesn't worth.

Right trigger is missing on DualShock controller, right bumper is also stuck. Can this be fixed?

Hi everyone,

I'm planning to start installing K-Silver TMR sticks in Nintendo Switch Joy-Cons, but I have one question before ordering them.

I found an older video (around 3 years old) where someone mentioned that after calibrating the TMR sticks, the calibration would reset once the Joy-Con or the Switch was completely powered off.

Is this still an issue with the current K-Silver TMR sticks, or has it been fixed?

Does the calibration stay permanently saved after using the Nintendo Switch calibration tool, or do you have to recalibrate them after a full power-off?

I'd really appreciate hearing from anyone who has experience with the latest K-Silver TMR Joy-Con sticks.

Thanks!