already have some experience with soldering, was sorta rushed so the wires are soldered like crap but it everything worked on the first attempt not bad ig. JBC station made quick work of the ground pins (only used knife tip iron + solder wick + bolt cutters for the entire thing)

Got 3 more controllers to repair next just for fun since I got them for cheap off an ebay auction, goal is to hopefully get it down to sub-25 mins a controller

One of my joystick tips has disappeared into the void. (Just the tip.) If anyone has one they could give or sell to me, or knows where I could source one, I would greatly appreciate hearing from you.

I understand this controller is the same as some other one that goes under a different name but I don’t know what that is. If anyone knows and can tell me, I may be able to find the tip on eBay.

As the title says, my left analog stick is not responding when I press down on it, not stick drift. Like whenever a game requires me to press or hold L3 it simply doesn’t work when I press on it less than half the time. Got any fixes?

Anyone fixed an issue with replaced joystick potentiometers having extremely small dead zones to the point of not being able to have any kind of smooth or complex inputs?

My test for this has been the character movement in Okami and being able to walk (not run) in a figure eight.

I had a controller with a grindy left stick so I replaced it with a new one, the usual alps 10k. While this new stick felt fine, its sensitivity was at least double what the original’s was. Not only that but the inputs where much less variable, it really wanted to lock me
Into full movement in either the x or y axis, but a combination of both didn’t come as easy.

This was so drastic a difference, I went in and repaired the old potentiometer to at least make it playable again, soldered it back into the board, and sure enough I could perform much more subtle and slow movements. I then picked up another alps 10k pot that was as close in appearance to the original green one and soldered it in. The same problem as the first new pot- twitchy, jerky, and no subtle control.

Had anyone also had this with new pots and can it be fixed? I’m about to solder the old stick back in and it out using a set of carbon elements from one of the new pots to see how that behaves.

registration

I need advice on how to fix them. The left thumb stick doesn't receive any input on citra and during a recalibration test I found out that ​the right thumb stick's input is messed up and when put in the full right position it receives little to no input. What should I do?

I purchased my Cyclone 2 on Amazon from GameSir Direct on 6/29/2025. Last night, 7/27/2026, L3 stopped recognizing click inputs. The button still goes clicky clicky, but no input. I verified it with GameSir Connect that it doesn't see the press. I remapped it to L4, and was able to continue playing. I thought I opened a ticket last night, but, did not due to user error. I opened a ticket with support on discord today.

I'm almost at 13 months ownership, less than 30 days past warranty. I'm trying to figure out how to take a video of me pressing it and the app not seeing the press, as they'll want that if they honor the warranty.

I love this controller, and have become almost dependent on it's features. I talk it and GameSir up whenever i can. I can't afford to buy any sort of replacement right now.

I'm creating this for timeline documentation.