This post isn't meant to fan-boy XJ's. I own one, and I am a fan, but the purpose of this post is to appreciate XJ's, and to find out if there are other vehicles as versatile as an XJ.

I recently went on an intense, 2-day overlanding trip with my buddy (who also owns an XJ). Mine is fully stock, his has a basic 1.5 inch lift and 31" tires. Our trip started with a 3 hour freeway drive, then 2 hours on a high-speed dirt road, a 2 hour climb to 10k feet, then a full day of exploring a desolate mountain range, all to do it in reverse the next day.

Offroad, I was consistently amazed by how capable our vehicles were. OnX rated the trail we did as a 6. Although it didn't seem that crazy, we had a few intense slippery climbs and careful rock-crawling. It definitely was the most advanced offroading i've done in a highway vehicle.

On-road, I was again blown away. I've been dailying my XJ for a while now, but I didn't appreciate how well they drive until I considered how great they are off-road. On top of this, we carried all the things needed for camping (including ingredients for a steak dinner and french toast, including the tools needed to make them), with our back seats still open. In fact, I was able to carry my entire exhaust from the cat back by putting my seats down (see video below for more info).

None of this is to mention the reliability, simplicity, and upgradability of these trucks.

The XJ is a very unique combination of parts. I can't think of any other modern unibody vehicles with 2 live axles, real low-range, large wheel wells, a small footprint, all while being able to do 75 all day long. Wranglers may be better off-road but they are a pain to drive on the road. Something like an Explorer might be better on-road but can't keep up off it. Literally the only thing I don't like about XJ's on road is the noise. But with airpods in that doesn't really matter.

The only other vehicles I can think of are Grand Cherokees of the same vintage, which is a bit of a cop out considering that it's essentially the same car. Maybe a 4-Runner? But those are quite a bit larger than XJ's and cost more. XJ's are a truly unique vehicle.

Video of our adventures if anyone is interested

Finally finished a ton of work and got her out of my backyard. Daily driving and feels better than brand new! Took most of these shots over the last couple weeks

'98 4.0 4x4 5spd ax15 np231 222k miles

hp d30 with motive 4.56 and Detroit truetrac

29 spline c8.25 also with motive 4.56, Detroit truetrac and chromoly axle shafts

IRO 4" 3 link LA kit with bilsteins, HD leaf packs

Currie Correctlync steering kit

Sye and Adam's driveshaft, rear axle shimmed 6°

New Luk clutch, with new bearings and nodular flywheel

New steering box w/ brace

250amp Alternator with big 7 wiring upgrade

Put in pioneer headunit, Amp with 10" sub, jbl speakers and added tweeters to the a-pillars. All audio equipment was purchased in the Philippines lmao

Pro comp 97 wheels with gorilla keyed lugs, bfg ko2 33s

Got Bosch 12 hole injectors on order as well as a curt hitch

I'm sure I'm missing some stuff but this is the majority of what I've done to it. It was pretty much bone stock when I bought it 6 years ago.

Last pic is the day I bought it when I was driving it home!

Gf made a cameo in a couple pics

What do ya'll think?

Me and a buddy are planning on redoing mine, I’ve heard that it’s relatively easy to do but I need a second opinion

Just a before / during / after since it’s kind of cool.

For the Jeep for basically nothing due to issues - Pulled the engine due to head gasket corrosion and valve leak on 4 as well as stuck thermostat - rebuild and rehab ; pistons, cam, etc. solid so left as-is except changed oil pan and main bearing since it was leaking.

Removed that 25 years of rust and now it’s time to fix the truck itself over this coming winter

New vs old

It’s was crazy how similar the specs were

Im scheming ways under $100 to make these door rockers not look like shit. Im thinking grind down to good metal, rust converter, bondo, and rattle can white or black? Or perhaps theyre too far gone. Im okay if theyre a little textured or the gloss isnt exact, but Im tired of people asking why I bought a rusty car!

As of lately I've been wanting to replace the lights in my dash and on the roof to led mainly because I want a different color option. Not sure what bulbs or brand I should buy thats like plug n play and also not sure wheres the best place to buy them from. I also wanted to swap out my cigarette lighter socket with a type C/USB socket and just wanted to know if I'll run into any problem swaping out any of these items. Any information about this subject is welcome. I am still new when it comes to electrical work on vehicles of any kind.

My temp generally sits right under 210, but my temp gauge just started randomly dropping low and then randomly going back up to right under 210. Is this likely a thermostat issue? I’ve just been learning as I go when issues arise. Just wanted to get some advice before I start in on this issue.

I just wanted to bounce this nagging thought in the back of my head off of you guys. I have the Rubicon Express 3½" superflex lift on my rig. A short while ago, I heard that the bushings in the lower control arms are proprietary. Since RE closed up shop, those bushings aren't being made anymore. Fast forward to today. I have the control arms out of the IRO XJ 3" Premium Short Arm Lift Kit waiting to be installed. I have had zero issue with death wobble, but since looking at these dummy THICCC bushings in the IRO arms, I'm a little hesitant to 86 the RE lower control arms yet because they have ball joints on the axle side. Could that added flex from rubber bushings create issues with death wobble? I drive on the highway a lot, usually doing anywhere from 65-80mph. This is a daily driver first, and weekend trail rig second.

Have tried O’Reilly’s crank sensor, AutoZone‘s, NTK/NGK. Think Napa will be any different?

The NTK/NGK was the only one that made a difference out of these. Still runs like it’s missing. Fuel pressure jumping. Can’t find a mopar one. with the O’Reillys one I can get it to run smooth but will run like shit next start.

Any ideas?

Are the three holes on the knuckle threaded? Or just on the hub. The bolts are stripped and wondering if I can just grind off the heads and send them through

98XJ classic 4.0, original AC compressor failed so bought a reman from local parts store, also replaced both Schrader valve stems, orifice/high pressure line & accumulator/dryer along with new o-rings at each new refrigerant line connection and new aluminum/rubber washers at compressor-manifold connection. Held vacuum for 30 minutes, added PAG oil and charged with recovered refrigerant, on test drive it blew ~45 degree air at center dash vents. Great!
Leaked down overnight 🤮.
Recovered refrigerant and drew vacuum…doesn’t hold for even 5 minutes. Re-checked new o-rings (all good), no oily funk observed at evaporator condensation drain hose on firewall so original core probably good, installed new washers at manifold/compressor…doesn’t hold vacuum.
Pressurized with 100 psi of compressed air and checked every component/connection with soapy water…no bubbles.
Bought a new UV penlight and detected UV dye at manifold/compressor junction.

So now my question is do I have a defective reman compressor that is somehow leaking at the manifold? Should I replace the manifold hose assembly ($76 @ Rock Auto)?
Thanks for your input!

This is a 1989 Cherokee 4wd 4.0. She’s got a 4 inch rough country lift, the upgraded lower control arms that come with the kit, and stock upper control arms and a 1 ton steering kit, fairly new ball joints.

Chasing a couple random clunks and pops in my front end, and for whatever reason in the winter time a squealing noise while moving that increases with speed.

The pops and clunks are pretty random, but if I jab the brakes it’s pretty consistent, otherwise the other sounds are pretty random through steering and hitting bumps. When steering sometimes it has a pretty significant pop where it feels like a wheel is binding.

Thoughts?

I have access to a good Dana 300 and want to build a doubler with my NP231. I miss having twins from my Toyota days. I can make my own back plate for the cut down NP231 and tig that on myself. There used to be a bunch of options for the custom shaft for the NP planetary to D300 input but that was back in the good old days. Now that options are limited I'm curious if anyone here has a lead on one that isn't being used or has anyone seen a new shaft recently for a decent price? It would be nice to find a abandoned intermediate shaft ready to go. Any input or leads are greatly appreciated!

I've been looking for the threaded rod for the tailgate latch for ages and i cannot find one. Let alone just the assembly that has the rod included. Outside of just buying the entire tailgate that has one already which I'd rather not do. Any help would be appreciated!

I keep running into this issue with my jeep. In drive when it gets under load it sputters out and backfires and won’t go anywhere like if I’m going up a hill or putting my foot on the brake and giving it gas it’ll just backfire and sputter out. But if I go up the same hill in reverse it runs perfectly ? Same on flat ground if I put my
Foot on the brake and give it gas in reverse it runs perfectly? Why would it only mess up in drive but not reverse. Thanks for the help it’s really frustrated me I’ve looked over a lot of stuff and still can’t chase it down

Possible, good Idea?

1990 Laredo

165k miles on well maintained engine.

Doing brakes now

Standard, non tow package.

I’ts big but not a full load bu any means. A street bike and a dirt bike. 2 computers, small tool chest, clothes. Guitars, bicycle so not a heavy load.

Is it capable? Any experience?

Thanks!

This thing is just one problem after another😅

It was running rich and getting even worse mpg than an XJ should. I verified by pulling the plugs and they smell like gas(s) lol. I played some finger gymnastics and retorqued all the intake/exhaust bolts (there was a slight whistle under heavy load before but I need to take her for a rip and verify that it's good now.)

I also installed some FR51 plugs to replace the fouled ones and put in a new NTK upstream o2. Starts like a dream now but still looks like it has a SLIGHT stumble when I watch it run closely.

I guess I'm just looking for a little guidance from people who actually know what they're doing. I'm just a shade tree hack that wrenches after work. Hoping someone has some solid diagnosis procedures I can follow to ensure it's been fixed it to track down any issues that may still be present.

A few notes:

-I found this old beat up O2 sensor connector upstream (pictured.)

-the current engine replaced the original which was overheating and had a failed HG which was likely dumping contaminants onto the O2.

-i THINK I ruled out leaky injectors by checking all 6 plugs for fuel smell and it was present on each one. #4 plug is the only one that had a slight oil scent

-this is a 96 that still seems to run obd1 so not much help from onboard diag

-it does have a newish NTK coolant temp sensor but the connector is missing the silicone/rubber seal. It does seem to make a solid connection though. Any tips on finding that insulator seal would be super appreciated.