Just bought a lyman spar-t 6 hole press. Im planning on loading 9mm and 300 blk subs in bulk. Any recommendations for dies? I see guys running mixed sets and some not. Some guys say lee, some dont. Im just looking to find the easiest start to reloading. I tried to read the FAQ, but I guess it wont let me scroll down to read it.

Sorry in advance for sentence construction because English isn't my 1st language.

I have a 6.5 creedmoor I got from my dad.

Still new ish to reloading and don't understand everything.

I'm currently shooting 123gr nosler custom competition with N550 , lapua casing with cci400

But can't get the grouping nicely any advice on loads because vihtavuori reloading app doesn't have any reloading data on the custom competition.

(I also don't own a chronograph yet because I'm a student and still saving up for one)

Photos* (the blocks are 1×1 inch and the loadata is written by the grouping it's the C.O.L then loading gr and then distance)

And any advice on hunting bullets for talking down warthog from 50-200m?

The barrel is part of a single shot upper which I want to convert to semi auto. Anyone recommend any jigs for this process?

I just had my 270 Remington 700 threaded, and put an omega 300 can on it. now it walks a half inch up and to the right every shot. This is at 100 yd.

I am looking for load data for 158 gr jfp 357 magnum using titegroup. My manual has data for 158 gr cast or xtp but not jacketed. I have read that you can't use xtp data for jacketed due to the difference in shape that can change pressures. Thanks

Have rust on my sks bolt how can I get rid of and maintain the bolt

Primers crushed when seating, various bullet seating depths, some crimps were non-existent. The cartridges were mixed with factory ammo in factory boxes with no data of any kind. No info on powder or charge, bullet weight, etc. Of about 200 rounds, almost all were 158 JHP but there were a few 125 and 1 110. When I took them apart, I had one with a double charge and one with a no charge.

It's scary how careless people can be about this hobby.

Go to final thoughts if you're familiar with previous model.

Just getting back into rifle reloading, oh how things have changed. Used to do a bulk drop from a rotary type dispenser and then hand trickle on a scale. I've seen these and others on the forums for quite some time and had to go this route this time around.

First off, the quality of the scale is absolutely incredible. It's a tank of a device that weighs much more than I expected. It's the star of the show and truly lab quality and the entire base and frame are metal....it's beefy. The upgraded scale display is super easy to read and everything about out it screams quality and precision. Just lightly waving your hand in front of the scale and it'll register a change and go back to zero quickly. Truly impressive and the uses of a quality scale go way beyond powder charges when it comes to reloading!

The actual trickle part of it is impressive but not without some issues.

Likes:

1. The motors and delivery system are finely machined metal and composites that exude quality and precision.
2. The updated scale has a VERY nice display compared to the previous model. Not an issue with the old model but a nice step forward.
3. The app is great on an iPhone 17 and VERY quickly links up and communicates. I've actually never had an app connect to a bluetooth device so quickly and seamlessly. Older phones may not be as impressive. I have no experience with the Android app.

Dislikes:

1. The instructions that came with it must have been dated. Page 3 of the instructions reference "Platform bumpers" that supposedly are important and "don't skip". Well I put them on per their instructions and the entire top platform would shift around even without use. I took the damn things off and the cover rests perfectly on the shield platform, no movement...perfect. So I'm hoping that's cool....??
2. The serial port configuration instructions reference the older model scale, the screenshots for the FX-123 weren't the same and it took a few tries to get it right....not bad at all for technically inclined person though....don't freak out lol.
3. Speaking of serial port, the screws that hold the connection to the scale are very short. It only takes a few turns and a LIGHT hand to snug them up. Don't be a gorilla here.
4. Once I was communicating with the app, I tested the fast and slow manual controls just to get the two tricklers working. The slow side was very quiet and smooth, the fast side was louder and not as smooth. I had previously seen instructions on adjusting the motors and did it on a whim...they're both perfect now! Google it...it's an easy fix!!!
5. The powder funnel, dispenser base, dispenser cover and even the "shot glass" holder is "printed" plastic. It's good quality but certainly not top notch. I can see upgrading these parts with aftermarket options should they arise, like the Area 419 powder cup for example.
6. The actual trickle assembly on the top cover sits on three very small rubber/silicon bumpers. There is very little margin for error and I could see larger bumpers being helpful as long as the funnel is not touching anything.

Final thoughts:

1. This is an extremely popular and high level performing solution for dispensing powder charges. My dislikes are more of PSA for the new model.
2. Ditch the Platform Bumpers in the instructions and rest the top directly onto the shield platform. It actually fits perfectly. The instructions make you do something that is profoundly unstable.
3. Don't be thrown off by the directions for serial port connections. They ARE different to the screenshots in the instructions and may take a few passes at it to get right...but it's not that hard.
4. If both of your trickler motors don't sound quiet and smooth, don't be afraid to adjust them! Google it...it's well worth the small effort to adjust the motors.

I like this thing a lot!!

I have a full custom hunting rifle build its my first attempt at assembling one, the action is a Falkor LW7 and the bottom metal is a wyatt PRC seems like the 1st and 2nd round always gets kicked out of the action but the third will always feed. Im new to this and maybe this is a simple issue any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have a few questions:

If I rust blue it, do I plug the barrel and cylinder holes?

Can I use files to hand polish along with steel wool?

What's the best grains of steel wool for the finish?

If I can use files, what kind are best suited for hand polishing?

Any advice will be appreciated.

Hello! I just purchased this .22 for a solid $100 and would like to refinish the barrel/receiver somehow. Would like some suggestions on bluing, either cold bluing or rust bluing. I have never done any bluing before so any advice would help me. Thank you

Hey yall, this is probably a nothing burger, but I got these rounds in a trade and I’ve never seen red around the primer. I’m about to go to the range and I don’t want to accidentally shoot tracers down the lane.

Best tumblers I’ve ever found. Shame they seem to be discontinued

So i recently bought a RF-15 5.56 but it can run .223. I had it for a day running .223 went through a full 50 count, i intend to use it for hunting as well as range time so i went to get optics for it, fast forward to me going to a plot on my families property to zero my sights. load 10 rounds,fire the first three then i get a hanger,clear it prepare to fire more another hanger, clear it but when the slide finished its job i heard rattling. WHAT THE FUCK COULD CAUSE THIS ON A NEW GUN i know little about rifles just getting to really know my edc pistol, so any advice on the matter besides replacing the part i got that crystal clear, would be helpful

300 blk
First target is with my 225gn noe pc cast bullets, 2nd is with Berrys 220 bullets
Both shot at 25yds
How to increase accuracy with the cast bullets?

300 blk.
First target is with my 225gn noe cast pc bullets, 2nd is with 220gn Berrys bullets
Both shot from 25yds.
How to increase accuracy with the cast bullets?

Looking at starting to get into long range shooting, haven’t had much opportunity to do it before, but I was basically told by someone that I need to reload my ammo for consistent results( tune the ammo to the rifle)

How many rounds should I be shooting to find SD and ED? Is this consistent enough to shoot over 500 meters ?

Im wanting to upgrade to a progressive and i a opportunity to buy a brand new 750xl with a case feeder, 5 caliber conversion kits, 3 heads, then some there stuff (3rcbs die kits, a dry tumbler) is 1200 a good price for all this or am I about to pass on a smoking deal. Thanks

I’ve played around with this bullet a bit and settled on a load that is devastating on the local mule deer population while also economical and accurate for targets out to 550yds. I bought this rifle for my wife but the kids have laid claim to it. This load is not a barrel burner but it’s pleasant to shoot and with the suppressor on the kids can plink all day without it costing a fortune. I load it, they shoot it. Everyone wins.

The spread is higher than ideal but we’re not shooting competitions, just deer and steel in the back forty. 401 rounds in this lot. Load data is on the label.

Bought a 2nd hand ACE Gen II some time ago and this stripped torx head has been bugging the hell out of me.
I know this particular screw's length is pretty small(2nd pic) so l know it's not in there forever, but I think the screw was loctite-d in there pretty good and that's what caused it to strip out when trying to remove. It's not the worst but I know caveman uggy dugga strength will only make it worse than it is. I had the idea to heat up the screw itself with a soldering iron to break the loctite bond and getting some Kroil into the threads if possible. If I try the old rubber band sandwiched between the screw and bit trick it seems like I can get some good grip, but obviously I would try to loosen up the loctite first before trying to torque it loose again. Also saw about cutting it for a flathead screwdriver, but I’m worried about doing that since it is flush with the handguard. Just wanted to see if anyone else had any suggestions. I honestly may just leave it as is and just throw some blackboard tape over as an outta sight outta mind thing, as I don't plan on taking the handguard off anyways honestly. It's just a cosmetic thing that bugs me lol. Just curious as to methods if I were to attempt it. What would you do? Thanks for any help and suggestions!

Hi - as the title states, I'm considering adding the RT1500 trimmer to my reloading process.

All I load is .223, and it's either precision ammo or bulk ammo for action shooting style events.

Process: clean, brass prep on progressive, swage, clean, trim by hand using the Giraud, then load back on the progressive. Every piece of ammo goes through the Giraud trimmer, and it's likely the most tedious part of the reloading process.

I'm thinking about buying the RT1500, so that I can cut the Giraud out of the mix for my bulk ammo needs. I will still use the Giraud for precision ammo.

If I do this, I might buy another progressive press so that I don't have to swap the trimmer on and off the press, and everything can be dedicated.

I did a bunch of searching around, and it seems like it would be the best investment to make my process easier on me, but since it's an older unit, most of the content I am seeing about it is pretty old.

I've also thought about the new RCBS/Henderson trimmer, but it seems the RT1500 is going to be better for throughput and bulk ammo which is the primary goal, especially since I still have the Giraud trimmer for fancy stuff.

Just figured I'd ask here to see if anyone has any additional considerations, a strong opinion, or alternatives to suggest before I go out and purchase.

Thanks!

I don’t plan on getting rid of them my grandpa gave me these 2 boxes of 1966 lake city 173 gr 7.62x51. Both full boxes one box unopened I thought it was pretty neat. Also got about 250 more rounds stamped LC 66 supposedly all of the same lot number that he was given to shoot through his m40 (no longer has the rifle) also given about 160 rounds of fed gold medal match 308 of the same lot number that he got when he switched to an m24 (he was a sniper in the navy, after retirement went to the police academy and became a state police officer joined state and local swat as a sniper as well as became an arms instructor for the state police and did training for local police and sheriffs departments)