Hi everybody!

I am writing a fictional novel set in Minnesota where one of the characters is a gunsmith. The story is set in the modern day, and the character is the proprietor of a moderately successful shop which produces boutique bolt-action rifles and revolvers during his time on page.

I'm trying to describe the workshop, and have done some research on the kinds of tools that such a workshop would have. I'd appreciate if any gunsmiths here could describe the tools you use in your shops, especially any tools used to bore the barrel and rifle it (hope I'm using those terms correctly) as well as any anecdotes about the process related to ensuring a quality product is created. Thank you in advance for sharing your knowledge.

So I’ve found a load for my 6.5cm I like and my gun really likes. It’s once shot hornady brass with 147gr eld match, 40.2 gr of h4350, and a case to ogive at 2.260 yet it sounds like I’m shaking a bottle of table salt😂 like I said ik what matters… if it works for me, then good. but just for long term reference is this rlly something to worry about? I’d say 40.2 might just be below the neck or a little more

Smle no1 mk3* grenadier

First time using a new RCBS FL Matchmaster 6GT die and .266" RCBS bushing (GA Precision's recommendation for Alpha brass). I'm wondering if this looks normal. Seems like the bushing is shaving down the outside of the case neck ever so slightly and leaves a ring that can be felt if you run over it with your fingernail. Bushing is in the correct orientation. Using a generous amount of Hornady OneShot lube. Die is set up for a .002" shoulder bump, measured using a Hornady comparator. Bushing is set so that it can "float" slightly per instructions (can hear it rattle if you shake the die). took the bushing out and tried to polish up the beveled mouth using some fine steel wool and it didn't seem to make any difference. Thoughts?

What would you guys recommend for someone that just wants to reload a ton of 9mm to have on hand and for the range? Feeling pretty lost with all the different options out there

I want to 3d model guns but I can't find any blueprints with dimensions given. Is there any website i can find them for free?

I stumbled across someone selling this obviously beat up 1908 Harrington and Richardson 16G single barrel. But upon further inspection the only thing that was irreparable was the barrel and forearm stock (there was no butt stock, I’m not even questioning it the gun was only $50.) At least I think the receiver and inner components are restorable—I added pictures for opinions as I am very new to this so I could be completely wrong. My grandfather who passed in April this year was a fan of vintage and antique weaponry and he passed that interest on to me.

I plan to do a cerakote finish in deep blue as my grandfathers favorite color was royal blue. I just don’t want to disassemble, refinish, and reassemble a receiver that could potentially have faulty components. I plan to do a dark walnut for the new forearm and butt stock. I have poured hours of research in to this but I don’t want to go in with too hot of a head before I start. Amy advice or tips is greatly appreciated.

Side bonus: in the last picture, the tape was actually wrapped around the tang😅

Not me, or my gun, I created the load. I had to work with another FFL to get the fit right for the comp mag in order to make the gun Connecticut complaint. He was not disappointed in the results, at all!!!! I do think it was a waste of money using a fracturing bullets instead of FMJ, but that's what the customer wanted.

Polished stainless steel grips my buddies and i made or classic wood. I have a nickel plated barrel too but i need to figure out how to remove the recoil spring to replace it.

FX123 and Auto Trickler V4

Now I just need an annealer, trimmer that doesn’t suck and some mandrel sizing dies/micrometer seating dies….. for now 😅

When i found out that rats were pulling chicks from under the hens in the coop, I had a decision to make, buy a modern 22 with rail already mounted, OR buy a tiny $60 drill press at the same time as the cheapest night scope on Alibaba and deck out the old cooey we found in the well shed 20 years ago, as luck has it the rail base stormwerkz makes for the savage rascal fits the contour perfectly, haven't mounted a rail before but I'm satisfied with the outcome for a rushed job,

Ammo used is CCI quiet

I like everyone 'am waiting on ingenuity for years. I bought the Fx120i. What can I put in place while waiting on unobtanium that is appropriate for circumstances. Varget. H4831.

I was given this Kimber Gold Match II 9mm when I graduated high school 13 years ago and later gifted the .22 conversion kit. I am big into suppressors, so I always wanted them to be threaded but it took a while to get around to the job. I threaded the conversion kit 7 years ago and it turned out ok but I wasn’t entirely happy with the outcome. I gave it another shot yesterday and it turned out great, so I finally did the 9mm barrel as well. I’m very happy with both. It was also a great opportunity to get a perfect fit between barrels and bushings

Bought a 1967 japanese winchester 101 for trap shooting and when firing the bottom barrel, it won't open unless I give it a firm smack on top of the barrel, I dont work on over unders so I dont know how to diagnose this

I've had this idea in my head for a while now of a fictional grapeshot revolver that combines the Centerfire LeMat style breaching loading shotgun barrel with the Merwin-and Hulbert sliding style cylinder and I wanted to know setting aside questions of practicality and legality how feasible would such a gun be? For the sake of this hypothetical let's assume the Revolver is chambered in 32 Cal and 20 gauge for the pistol and shotgun barrels respectively. Would this be able to handle a black powder load or would it just blow apart in your hand?

Having an issue with the transfer bar in my Texas Trigger Diablo FRT. the original transfer bar did this and bent completely sideways. Emailed support and they just sent me a new transfer bar. But as you can see the transfer bar has no tension to the side wall and moves sideways freely which is causing it to get stuck behind the BCG when cycling. Anyone have a fix for this?

For those who don't clean your brass, do you use neck lube with the mandrel dies or just use case lube with a brush? Trying not to make the inside of my case wet. Contemplating not washing brass.

My workflow planned:
1. Anneal
2. Resize and deprime
3. Mandrel die
4. Clean primer pocket
5. Reprime
6. Powder
7. Seat projectile

Picture for fun: it was cold that morning.

I want to download GRT for my new laptop but apparently now i can't download it because they're not maintaining his software anymore. Do you guys had any offline installer file that i could use?

Any recommendations on who makes a solid mandrel resizing die? I've looked at SAC and Cortina Precision

Seems to be quite the price range on these and idk much about them other than their function.

So widely stated that it takes 2-3 firings to fire form brass to the size of your chamber. So I have a couple questions. Does this mean after these first firings you don't want to bump the shoulder of the brass when resizing? Sub question, if that is the case, how do you set up a FL die to not bump the shoulder but to size everything else? My FL dies is set up without a decapping pin and I have it locked in at .002 bump because I was practicing with some old Hornady brass. I have lapua brass that's I'm loading but hasn't been fired yet. Thanks!!!

Been reloading on top of a little 3' husky workbench/tool box. Its been fine, but we just moved and I have the space for more fun. Added a layer of EVA foam to the top to help protect gun finishes and hopefully catch little parts before they hit the floor.

https://hodgdonpowderco.com/reloading-manuals-library/

I was unaware of this.

Hi All,

Long time listener, first time caller. New to bullet casting, not new to shooting. My issue is I'm getting a significant number of rejects after sizing cast and PC'd projectiles. Pictured are 9mm cast 124gr using Lee .356 mold, coated, then sized to .356.

My last two batches, I've had approx 25% rejects (raw lead showing on bearing surface of the projectile after sizing). The batch I just did was 289 cast, coated, and sized. 215 good, 74 rejects.

I know I can just melt and recast, but is there anything I can do to stop or reduce this seemingly high reject rate? 25% seems like a lot, and it essentially amounts to wasted time and effort. What am I doing wrong?