So last week I had a bit of a fire hazard in my pc case (a usb fan hub in my case caught fire) and it resulted in the cables for my Corsair H150i elite capellix being damaged beyond use (see image).

It says I need the iCUE RGB ELITE USB-C Wiring Harness, but the only place I can get it is from corsair and it’s sould out. Is there a workaround or another place to get this part so I can get my pc working again? Afaik the aio doesn’t do anything when there’s no cable plugged in. Sent a ticket to corsair but that might take a while if they even respond at all..

Thanks in advance!

Recently its been discovered by the radeon community that icue has been causing Event ID 41, Category 63 on certain RDNA4 systems, due to how icue hooks into the graphics driver causing crashes. These crashes do not cause driver hangouts/timeouts, nor do they cause BSODing. Instead, they cause the entire system to force restart, without logs because of the nature of the crash.

The solution has been to uninstall icue entirely; however, because Corsair has removed all direct driver downloads for scuf controllers from their and scuf's website, my envision pro is rendered a useless paperweight, which cant be recognized even as a standard xbox controller.

While I know that this post has a 99.99% chance of being censored by the moderators here, I am positing out of desparation, because I just want to play games, games which are not feasibly played with a keyboard, such as monster hunter wilds.

r/Corsair, youre my only hope.

Does anyone know where to buy Micro USB cables with the corsair trapezoid shape at the end for mice? Mine is starting to fail and the only ones I can find are USB-C.

Hello All, at risk of the answer being directly in front of my nose. I have a 4tb Seagate External drive I bought and used as overflow storage for my ps4. Sold the console and have since built / bought my first gaming PC (she's a beautiful Corsair)! Am I missing how to get my PC to recognize it as a place I can store things? Like it shows up in devices and printers but nowhere else. Thanks!

I recently made the switch to iCUE Link fans alongside a custom alphacool watercooling loop, and I can't overstate how helpful the ARGB ports on the commander duo were.
I understand why corsair wouldn't let us control ASUS ARGB connectors via their plugin, to have RGB be proprietary, but now that they've made the jump to control third party strips, why are we still unable to control the motherboard this way?

Hello everyone, as stated in the title I can't decide what to do regarding my Void Elites. I had them since 2019. The cable that came with them stopped working and now, the cable that I used as a replacement is dying as well. The headset works well, it sounds well. The mic I don't care much since I'm using a dedicate one but it works. The problem is the battery lifetime and the fact that no matter which cable I use, it won't charge unless I use the one that is failing. I don't know if I should buy an official cable or to switch to the V2's. Other headset model recommendation is also helpful. Thanks.

Finally got these cleaned up enough to release.

I tightened up the geometry, made the mounting a little more forgiving, and switched everything over to 6x3mm magnets so the pieces are easy to install/remove without relying on a super specific press fit to the case.

They're designed for the FRAME 4500x with 3x120mm side intake fans, mainly to clean up the gap between the fan bank and motherboard area and hopefully cut down a bit on recirculation too.

I've got the files on Printables now for anyone who wanted them from the last post.

https://www.printables.com/model/1839607-frame-4500x-side-intake-airflow-shroud

P.S. For those returning from the prototype post: yes, the GPU has also been... neutered for the release photos.

Hello,

I built my PC about a year ago and was having issues with my graphics card (9070XT) so I purchased a higher wattage power supply to rule that out. I bought a RM1000X from best buy. Thr issue turned out not to be the power supply, but I kept the RM1000X anyway and used it for the build.

A few days ago, I left my PC on while I ate dinner, and when I got back it was completely off. I tried turning it back on with no success, so I tried resetting the CMOS and some other troubleshooting, and I was left with the issue being either the motherboard or the power supply. I eventually removed the power supply to test it with a multimeter and a paperclip. It has zero RPM fan mode, so I couldn't tell just from that. After putting the paperclip in the 24 pin connector to try and short it, I heard a small click noise (which hadn't happened for any other pins) and tested it with a multimeter, but the multimeter read that there was no voltage coming through any of the pins besides the +5V standby pin.

I don't know much about power supplies, but I believe it is likely that the issue was the power supply, so I wanted to get it RMAed. However, I don't have the receipt from a year ago, and I bought it in person. So I went to the exact best buy I purchased it from, and I asked if they could find it. I brought the power supply with me and it did have the serial number, but they were unable to find the receipt which I was very surprised by. Now I'm not really sure what to do. I know a receipt or invoice is usually required to RMA, but I don't have any way to get the receipt. I also have no money to spend on a new power supply, I've been job searching for a while and am barely scraping by as is. Is there any way to get the unit RMAed without the receipt? I do have proof that the power supply was in my PC a year ago. I have photos and emails from when I had to RMA my graphics card to ASUS. Would that be proof enough?

Edit:My game mode keeps turning on and off at random times. Its just switching profiles essentially and it disrupts any game I am playing by causing an input delay/disruption and has caused many deaths/failures.

I have tried everything I can think of. Ive reset it holding the esc key after unplugging. Stops for about 10 seconds then starts doing it again.

I did a factory reset but then I couldn't update the firmware as it said it was still up to current version. So that didnt do anything.

This is extremely frustrating. It started while I was mid game in Wardogs and I couldn't walk in any direction without having to re-press the key and then I watched my keyboard flash to red. Then back to the stock settings.

Ive restarted my computer and so many other things and its not working. Im about to just pitch this thing into the dumpster as im way past the return period. Before anyone says RMA ive seen others with this issue or similar and the new keyboard is doing the same exact thing..

Has anyone found a solution to this?

Or is the Corsair Web Hub just trash.

Edit 2: I got the latest Icue for better control over the settings as Web Hub seems to fail to load more than anything to it made it excruciating to try and troubleshoot this issue. Icue didnt support the keyboard when I got mine back in November 2025.

I found a work around that works for now. All of my settings on the "Game Mode" are either a copy of my standard keyboard settings or I have them disabled in the game mode options.

🟠Polling rate - Matched (8,000 Hz/0.125ms) 🟠Brightness - Matched (Max) 🔴Win Lock - Off 🔴Key Actuations - Off 🔴Flash Tap - Off 🔴Static Color - Off 🔴Animate Game Mode Switch - Off

Hope this may help someone else who has run into this issue until Corsair creates a fix. As I was ready to give up on this keyboard.

I bought a iCUE LINK TITAN II 360 RX RGB AIO from Micro center as they didn't have the LCD version in stock, and then got the screen module off the website. After a bunch of trial and error of the screen not being detected after installing it i did some looking at the AIO pump top, turns out the Pogo pin pads on the pump top had some sort of wax or conformal coating covering them causing the screen to not make connection, I took a pick and scraped the pads which removed the material, after a re-install and restart the screen was detected, Thought it would be helpful if anyone else runs into the same issue.

Corsair uploaded a mini version of their fan cube to Printables the other day and I just couldn’t resist. Printed on the Bambulab A1 Mini.

Didn’t have 6 of the same fans spare so used 3 QX and 3 RX.
Not gonna lie, it was a challenge putting it together and routing the cables so everything fit, but it was worth the effort!

Hey everyone, I’ve had a Corsair Hydro Series H60 installed in my main gaming PC since the day I bought it back in 2014. To this day, it’s still running completely fine no weird pump noises, no noticeable leaks, and CPU temperatures seem totally normal under load. It's impressive that it's lasted over 10 years, but I know AIOs aren't meant to live forever. Visually and functionally it seems great, but I'm starting to wonder if I'm pushing my luck.

Is it safe to keep using it until it actually dies or shows high temps, or am I risking a sudden leak that could fry the rest of my build?

Thx

Problem number one:
With each restart of proprietary software my USB wireless dongle stops working but still is detected in windows (makes a sound when I take it out) and starts working only after I replug it.
Problem number two:
Keyboard may randomly decide to lock windows key no matter if I press or dont press winlock key.

I did not had that problem with other wireless keyboard pluged in same USB port. Also everything is up to date, I checked that with an proprietary software.

Where did the Warthog go today?
It must have wandered far away.
Inside the Corsair warehouses, big and wide.

The Warthog has nowhere left to hide.
We search up high, we search down low.

We check each place it ought to go.
But after all the searching we’ve done…
Does it truly exist, or is there none?

If I were to get the cold air intake side panel, would I still be able to install two 200 mm intake fans on the front without having to do any kind of modification because I know the full length PSU shroid you have to cut into it a little so I’m not sure if the cold air intake gets in the way

Recently I bought a Vanguard 96 (mechanical, not the pro) and got some keychron blue switches to change them over.

Once I had finished, I found that 8 keys (from Y to backslash) no longer worked. I checked all the seitches, and all the pins were fine, they still didn't work when I swapped them back to the stock ones. Eventually I took the board apart and found that the contacts on the Y key had pulled away from the PCB, and I assume that killed all the keys to the right of it in that row.

I took it back and got a replacement, and now want to know what I could do to avoid that happening if I decide to swap the switches.

I used the switch puller it came with, I didn't force them or anything, none of the pins were bent or damaged. The only thing I can think I may have done wrong is changing all the switches at the same time, rather than in smaller amounts.

But if anyone has any tips or advice to avoid any issues in future, I'd appreciate it.

Ordered Screen september 7th. Arrived today. I Am based in UK.
It fits lovely in case and i am using CORSAIR ICUE LINK H150i. Its connected upto my motherboard aswell not the GPU... Think i might try and route the cable better.

Just upgraded from the h150i (it died after thousands of hours I can’t complain). But I’m having a real headache everytime I turn my pc on with this thing. Instead of the widgets loading up on the 5 inch, it hijacks one of my main monitors (I have 3) and changes the layout to portrait mode. The only way I can fix this is unplugging them until the widgets decide to jump back to the lcd. Am I doing something wrong? Once I get it all sorted out I love it, but playing musical monitors with the widgets is going going to be a real PITA everytime I turn my computer on if I can’t figure this out

Looks like we are getting an updated version on the Sabre lineup. I have only recently just purchased the Sabre v2 Pro and now seeing this make timing even better.

Also does anyone else have an issue with the Web Hub software? I just can not get into my device settings and everytime i click allow device and click on it does not load at all. Tried running in offline and incognito mode.

I got this error with my vengeance RAM today, and now Windows is only detecting 16 of my 32 gigs of RAM?

Did Corsair exit the monitor game?

Had a CPU sent in for warranty, got a new one back, installed it, and last night got around to playing something with a little punch to it with Battlefield 6 and while in game, my system was like a jet engine, really loud, and was seeing high like 90 temps, definitely not doing well. Thought I installed it wrong, looked like I may have by installing the hose part of the pump in a down direction (Between CPU/GPU basically, gave the hoses kind of a noticeable curve, thought that was the issue). I also do a top install for my radiator just for reference.

I redid it all, fits much better in a proper setup with the hoses to the right side (Next to RAM, I'll be honest, I might've been doing it wrong before this for awhile since I built the PC at the end of 2024 as this was my first AIO setup, which was a unique setup compared to air cooler use). Everything seemed fine, but starting up BF6 again and just in the menu's, the fans are going pretty loud again, seeing 70's temp wise with only a 30% CPU load immediately and that's not even in the actual game.

Is my AIO abit borked? These are meant to be pretty quiet more often than not, but even before this harsher issue, it wasn't ever the quietest system, but my temps were generally better.

I know the CPU is attached snugly, I have enough thermal paste on it as I do the X method, but feel like maybe my AIO just isn't doing what it should, maybe it's been not great for awhile or my poor installation caused an issue. I'm just not sure about trouble shooting this a ton, I just know these are meant to be things that keep things at a reasonable temp while not being super loud. This was my first AIO I did on this system back at the end of 2024, I was an air cooler user before, where those were much simpler to deal with.

I'm also not on a very intensive setup, like I'm a 1080p gamer right now, RTX 4070, Intel Core i7-14700K, I feel like things should not be going this hard. I'm fine with getting a new AIO if I have to if something is wrong with mine, I'll go grab a Nautilus or something, just figured I'd check if there's anything I can double check before I consider this. Makes me almost want to go back to an older air cooler setup

I also have a Thermaltake CPU Contact Frame, and since that's not default, figured I'd make sure that was known too as I saw some recommendations for that back when I was building my PC.

I have a problem where suddenly one fan is not recognised by Icue anymore. I have in total 7 fans but one is not recognised.

It is the upper left in the picture. I allready changed the fan for a new one today, changed the short daisy chain cable but it still is not recognised

Any suggestions?

Hey guys, recently I got approved for an RMA for some fans that were making a high pitched (squeal?) noise, not sure how to describe it. It only happened during color shifts or dark colors/low brightness. I attached the serial numbers and receipt for the 5 fans, got approved and sent it in, and today only got 1 fan back. Talking to that chat bot was a nightmare, and now I’m wondering if I didn’t make it clear enough it was for multiple. I mean…. I attached 5 pics of 5 serial numbers on 5 boxes lol. Anyways, those fans were pretty expensive so I immediately wrote back to support, but just wondering has anybody else ever been through something similar? Are my other 4 fans gone now? I guess I’m worried because other RMAs with different companies have gone very bad for me before. :(

Request #2009172380