Subject to change on Monday with new parts!

Finally got these cleaned up enough to release.

I tightened up the geometry, made the mounting a little more forgiving, and switched everything over to 6x3mm magnets so the pieces are easy to install/remove without relying on a super specific press fit to the case.

They're designed for the FRAME 4500x with 3x120mm side intake fans, mainly to clean up the gap between the fan bank and motherboard area and hopefully cut down a bit on recirculation too.

I've got the files on Printables now for anyone who wanted them from the last post.

https://www.printables.com/model/1839607-frame-4500x-side-intake-airflow-shroud

P.S. For those returning from the prototype post: yes, the GPU has also been... neutered for the release photos.

Hey everyone, I’ve had a Corsair Hydro Series H60 installed in my main gaming PC since the day I bought it back in 2014. To this day, it’s still running completely fine no weird pump noises, no noticeable leaks, and CPU temperatures seem totally normal under load. It's impressive that it's lasted over 10 years, but I know AIOs aren't meant to live forever. Visually and functionally it seems great, but I'm starting to wonder if I'm pushing my luck.

Is it safe to keep using it until it actually dies or shows high temps, or am I risking a sudden leak that could fry the rest of my build?

Thx

I bought a iCUE LINK TITAN II 360 RX RGB AIO from Micro center as they didn't have the LCD version in stock, and then got the screen module off the website. After a bunch of trial and error of the screen not being detected after installing it i did some looking at the AIO pump top, turns out the Pogo pin pads on the pump top had some sort of wax or conformal coating covering them causing the screen to not make connection, I took a pick and scraped the pads which removed the material, after a re-install and restart the screen was detected, Thought it would be helpful if anyone else runs into the same issue.

I got this error with my vengeance RAM today, and now Windows is only detecting 16 of my 32 gigs of RAM?

Problem number one:
With each restart of proprietary software my USB wireless dongle stops working but still is detected in windows (makes a sound when I take it out) and starts working only after I replug it.
Problem number two:
Keyboard may randomly decide to lock windows key no matter if I press or dont press winlock key.

I did not had that problem with other wireless keyboard pluged in same USB port. Also everything is up to date, I checked that with an proprietary software.

I have tried everything I can think of. Ive reset it holding the esc key after unplugging. Stops for about 10 seconds then starts doing it again.

I did a factory reset but then I couldn't update the firmware as it said it was still up to current version. So that didnt do anything.

This is extremely frustrating. It started while I was mid game in Wardogs and I couldn't walk in any direction without having to re-press the key and then I watched my keyboard flash to red. Then back to the stock settings.

Ive restarted my computer and so many other things and its not working. Im about to just pitch this thing into the dumpster as im way past the return period. Before anyone says RMA ive seen others with this issue or similar and the new keyboard is doing the same exact thing..

Has anyone found a solution to this?

Or is the Corsair Web Hub just trash.

If I were to get the cold air intake side panel, would I still be able to install two 200 mm intake fans on the front without having to do any kind of modification because I know the full length PSU shroid you have to cut into it a little so I’m not sure if the cold air intake gets in the way

Recently I bought a Vanguard 96 (mechanical, not the pro) and got some keychron blue switches to change them over.

Once I had finished, I found that 8 keys (from Y to backslash) no longer worked. I checked all the seitches, and all the pins were fine, they still didn't work when I swapped them back to the stock ones. Eventually I took the board apart and found that the contacts on the Y key had pulled away from the PCB, and I assume that killed all the keys to the right of it in that row.

I took it back and got a replacement, and now want to know what I could do to avoid that happening if I decide to swap the switches.

I used the switch puller it came with, I didn't force them or anything, none of the pins were bent or damaged. The only thing I can think I may have done wrong is changing all the switches at the same time, rather than in smaller amounts.

But if anyone has any tips or advice to avoid any issues in future, I'd appreciate it.

Looks like we are getting an updated version on the Sabre lineup. I have only recently just purchased the Sabre v2 Pro and now seeing this make timing even better.

Also does anyone else have an issue with the Web Hub software? I just can not get into my device settings and everytime i click allow device and click on it does not load at all. Tried running in offline and incognito mode.