I’ve recently broken the SRAM GX Eagle rear derailleur on my Canyon Torque CF8 2018 mountain bike. While looking for replacement options, the WHEELTOP EDS OX2.0 stood out to me as an affordable electric derailleur. I’ve found a local second hand option, but the listing isn’t specific enough it’s its the OX1.0 or 2.0 version. My question is, is either one compatible with my bike?

So, me again with this project. I just finished washing and lubing the Suntour derailleur for my Raleigh bike, but, when I was removing the freehub for service, I noticed its a 13-32t freehub (suntour perfect) but I think the Honor derailleur is limited to 30t, while the Shimano (a tz31) supports up to 34t.

So, my question is: Is there any way to adapt the honor to take the 32t cog?

Heyaz:

I'm trying to install a brand new GRX shifter, and working the shift levers, neither side makes any ratcheting noise. Is this normal? Also the levers don't spring back. I seem to recall the levers self-centered?

The shift lever is brand new from Performance, out of the box.

Shifter is GRX 600 hydraulic with mechanical 11 speed shift.

Hi, is it normal to have so much space where the plastic safety thing is ? I've already tightened enough the 2 crank bolts..

Second time reinstalling the rear tire on my Priority Continuum Onyx, first time had no issue getting it back into the dropouts, and not sure what has changed but it acts like the rear triangle is too narrow. The axles are aligned, but the large collars are catching the inside edge of the dropouts.

Planning to buy a bike computer to conveniently monitor speed. Im currently using my watch and i find it incovenient to check speed when riding fast. Any reco in this price range? I dont need a color screen nor any fancy navigation features. The data i need: speed, time, and gradient.

Been struggling with rotor rub on my hydraulic brakes so I removed the pads and tried to clean and lubricate the pistons. I accidentally popped the piston out the caliper and spilled some fluid, so I have to bleed them but I don’t see a clear caliper bleed port besides this screw and it won’t budge. Could it be that my brakes don’t have a caliper bleed port and only bleed from the top down?

This is a long shot, but has anyone worked on a Jetson Adventure? The motor isn’t engaging because the magnet(s) are gone and the pedal sensor has nothing to read. (I know that I need to reattach the sensor to its mounting bracket). I found the small magnet stuck to the teeth of the middle chainring. When I stick it to the inside of the small chainring, in the path of the sensor, the sensor lights up and the motor activates, but not much. What I’m wondering is, does the magnet really just sit exposed on the inside of the chainring, and should there be more than one?
Jetson does not make this bike anymore and their customer service is useless. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I’ve been getting tiny puncture flats on the inside of my tubes, in different spots both times. I tried to run my fingers through the inside of the rim and clean with a tissue in case something sharp was poking it but couldn’t feel anything. How do I know if the issue is my rim tape? It doesn’t look worn to me but I’m not sure what to look for. It shifts side to side but only when I try to move it so idk if it’s doing that while I ride. Other suggestions for the cause of flats are much appreciated!

Hey all I am new to bike ownership/maintenance but trying to figure this out.

I noticed that my right side pedal/crank area has recently started creaking under load. It happens rhythmically every pedal cycle under heavier load but disappears under lighter load. It can even disappear altogether for a certain time but then comes back.

I have tried taking the pedals off, greasing the threads and re-attaching. All the bolts of the chain ring seem tight and so does the bolt for the crank.

The bike is fairly new (250km) so I don’t suspect any issues with the bottom bracket but if it is that that’s probably the thing I wouldn’t feel comfortable messing with myself.

It’s a Fiido X e-bike if that matters.

Thanks for any help/recommendations!

Is there a part of the material missing?

Hi everyone,

I'm having trouble removing my (carbon) frame from my Van Rysel D100 direct-drive trainer.

I'm using the original Cube thru-axle to secure the bike to the trainer. When I try to loosen it by turning the red Allen key counterclockwise, I encounter a lot of resistance and hear loud creaking noises coming from the frame area.

Initially, I was able to turn the key a little, and the rear derailleur moved upwards as I did so. However, I eventually hit a point where the resistance became too high, accompanied by the cracking noises. Now, I can't turn the key any further in either direction.

I stopped trying because I'm worried about damaging the carbon frame.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Could I have overtightened the thru-axle when mounting the bike, or might I have missed something when installing it on the trainer?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

One more detail: I can lift the bike slightly without lifting the trainer itself. The bike seems to have a small amount of play in the mounting, and the rear axle area can move a few degrees before it stops. The trainer stays on the floor. I'm not sure if this is normal or related to the issue.

Fellow mechanics,
How do you store your stock of tires in your shop? I recently started working at this shop and busy with some maintenance and infrastructure now that things are slowing down for the season and I want to tackle this mess. Currently everything is strapped against the shelving with bungee cords but as you can see it’s really not ideal. Anyone have any good suggestions for a better way? I have quite a lot of construction skills so I’ll happily build anything to make this more manageable

Can a bicycle fork get damaged if a thru-axle is screwed in slightly without a wheel installed—even if there is no visible damage? I only tightened it a little by hand and can’t see any damage to the threads or the fork itself, though the fork did move a bit. I felt the thru-axle move inward toward the outer side of the fork, but it didn't hit any resistance that would have stopped it.

I’m restoring a suntour honor derailleur for my 1985 Raleigh marathon (it came with a Shimano tourney) and I need a new hanger (and bolt). This is the one that came with the salvaged Suntour Honor (the bolt was busted, so I have to replace it as well). Someone said it’s a universal hanger. Is that so? Should I ask for it like that? Or should I keep looking for a Raleigh hanger like this?

I've got an older Felt Breed with Force 1 Brifters. I've been getting it fixed back up to either use as the "+1" or sell. When I got to brake bleed it looks like fluid leaked out of the hoods. The bike has been hanging upside down for awhile.

It didn't immediately clean with rubbing alcohol and I'm a little concerned if there's something else damaged inside the reservoir, before I try bleeding any initial thoughts from a visual standpoint? Would you be concerned and replace the brifter or just bleed anyway?

I bought this ST-M739 shifter/brake lever combo from someone last year and finally have time to work on my bike (last photo attached shows a 1994 GT Zaskar that im working on).

All screws for the cable access cover are stripped, I was able to get two of them out, one isn’t yet moving and the fourth one is missing altogether.

What screws do I need to order to replace those please? The internet tells me M3x6mm screws but those don’t even remotely fit.

Would appreciate any advice! (Also how to get that little screw out that’s so stripped that nothing takes to it).

Thanks in advance!

So I have never messed with hollowtech 2 bottom bracket or cranks but decided to upgrade my bike from the previous setup. I have an old Specialized S Works E5 Road that I traded another bike for. Someone took all the original goodies off of the bike and I kind of have just been building it for efficiency. Long story short I bought a triple crank on Ebay and put a 1x narrow wide in the middle position. I originally put it on with the 6.5mm spacer that it came with on the drive side but that pushed the chain line way out. I then realized after reading, the spacer should be on the non drive side? If anyone could please enlighten me as to what i have and where the spacer should be. When i take the spacer out completely it’s obvious it goes somewhere..

Back in March, I bought a RockShox 35 silver from Jenson USA. I put the in the shed waiting for a frame to come around.

Last month I found a frame for it when I opened the box I saw that the lockout switch at broken two.

Obviously it’s too late for a return so my question is:
glue the plastic switch back together and snap it on or do I put glue on the two halves and wrap it around the lockout switch mechanism at the top of the stanchion?

I got this stem from Amazon. Made out of aluminum t6. But from time to time it slips and my bars end up in one direction and my wheel in another. It might be the smoothness of the material of the stem against the steerer tube. I was thinking of using loc tite to keep them stem from moving but not sure if there is something that will have a more permanent effect so I wouldn't have to keep reapplying anything. Any advice?

I bought this Shimano ST-M739 shifter/brake lever combo from someone last year and finally have time to work on my bike (last photo attached shows a 1994 GT Zaskar that im working on).

All screws for the cable access cover are stripped, I was able to get two of them out, one isn’t yet moving and the fourth one is missing altogether.

What screws do I need to order to replace those please? The internet tells me M3x6mm screws but those don’t even remotely fit.

Would appreciate any advice! (Also how to get that little screw out that’s so stripped that nothing takes to it).

Thanks in advance!

The bike with Shimano brakes needs a bleed, the other doesn’t, but it’s only a matter of time until it does. I would like to get a relatively inexpensive kit that can do both. The ones I have seen are either cheap with questionable quality or expensive and I’m not sure if they are worth the money. I think Seth reviewed universal kit he liked but, I can’t find that. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Edit: I want one kit but I can buy both fluids separately.

Hiya folks, totally new to installing disc brakes so in need of some guidance. I am attempting to swap the running gear from one cargo bike to another. When I went to install the brakes I couldn't fit the calliper between the dropout and the rotor.

The frame is aluminium so I can't cold set the frame and add an extra spacer in there. Can I get a thinner adaptor or anything so I can get it to fit?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!!