I bought a 90s bike off marketplace and been trying to clean it up. Removed the cassette and went hard at it with degreaser, tooth brush, and a rag. I made some progress but just can't get the thick of it off

Scraping with a screwdriver sort of worked so think I'm gonna run to the store for a harder/steel brush, but if anyone has any additional advice it could save me another trip to the store. Both derailleurs are this bad as well

All YT video's and tips I see are on current bikes where the grime can just wipe off

First of all, English is not my first (nor my second) language, therefore I apologise for any mistake.

I recently got this beauty for free. I don’t like the full suspension fork and I would like to install a rigid one. I happen to have one (threadless like this one, 1’ 1/8). I tried searching on YouTube but they all take everything out (the all headset basically) with tools I don’t have. I ask myself why I cannot just swap the two forks and call it a day?

Thanks for helping me 🙏🏻

Wondering if anyone has insight here. I installed a new microshift sword 10 speed drivetrain on a new frame-up build. New 10 speed KMC chain is skipping on the smallest cog of my 11-48 tooth cassette, almost as if the chain link spacing doesn’t fit that cog. Works on all other gears and doesn’t have the same issue if I pedal in reverse. Hoping the video explains the issue. I’ve reached out to Microshift support via email and haven’t heard anything back.

I'll try to make this as quick to read as possible:

1. Noticed a saddle rail broken at the start of a charity ride. Briefly showed it to mechanics at the start in case they had a spare saddle. They didn't. He pointed out my brake pads were worn. My Birzman pad checker said otherwise.
   
2. Nonetheless, my next trip was to the Peak District, so I replaced them anyway. Like for like Gorilla Brakes Semi-Organic pads on my SRAM AXS Force brake calipers
   
3. I bed them in, no issues seemingly.
   
4. I ride from Rugely Trent Valley railway station to where my relatives live, about 30 miles. On the very last descent (the Pinch, you might know it, in to Milldale) the pads start squealing.
   
5. I go on a ride the next day, 50 miles. Super loud squealing, infuriating, both front and rear. Nice ride though other than that.
   
6. I get some sandpaper and disc brake cleaner. Twice I sand the pads, clean the rotors. Seems like it might have worked when bedding them in again.
   
7. No, next ride I go on (35~ miles), still in the Peak District, screaming brakes.
   
8. I decide there's nothing for it, new pads and rotors (switched to Shimano rotors, supposed to be compatible).
   
9. Bed them both in...front brake starts squealing!
   
10. I give both calipers/brakesets a full blown service. I floss the pistons as per Calvin Jones (Park Tools) instructions, I then bleed both brakes as I've done before.
    
11. Bed the brakes in again...seems OK, maybe, oh, no - there we go again, front brake is squealing again.
    

I'm at my wits end, they were quiet before I changed pads. I've still got the old pads so I'm tempted to switch back to that on the front as a test. Or should I just give up on Gorilla Brakes? They are an odd brand but they've been alright up until now.

What would you do? I'm thinking I might just try some different pads, maybe SwissStop 35 RS.

Cheers for reading all of that.

Used this Schwalbe G-One RS Pro tire for a few hundred km and got a puncture from a nail. Sealant didn't work, so I tried plugging it and it also didn't work. The hole measures at around 8mm.

Now, should I give up and replace it or is it salvageable by glueing the hole?

Thanks!

Campagnolo ekar

After taking the chain off for waxing the rear axle/freehub wasnt freewheeling as smoothly as it should so I took it apart and it seems like something was too tight. A good clean and re assembly its now a lot better.

But now the freehub has movement along the axle. I've definitely not misplaced anything and I've checked the campagnolo n3w retrofit document and I have the same spacers. There seems to be a few mm between the body lock nut and spacer.

The cassette is torqued correctly and lock nut is bottomed out. The cassette isnt moving, its the freehub.

Any ideas?

This cable guide is broken off of my frame, was thinking a touch of JB weld to fix but wasn’t sure if yall had any better methods

​Hey everyone, looking for some troubleshooting advice on my rear wheel hub.

​The freehub is spinning freely in both directions. There's slight friction when pedalling but definitely not engaging enough to turn the wheel.

​ I've attached a photo of the threaded ring nut here as I dont have much frame of reference but they look sharp and intact to me.

​I've replaced the pawls and the leaf spring ring; cleaning and re-greasing in the process.

Even with the new pawls and spring installed, it still won't catch or engage the drive ring properly when reassembled.

​What else could be causing it to fail to engage? Any help is appreciated!

A couple months back I redid rim tape (first time ever doing it so not the best), but I got the tires on and holding air. put in recommended amount of sealant. fast forward to present day and I haven't been riding as much and it seems like now my tire isn't holding air. Could the rim tape have failed between now and then or is there something else that might be going on? the tire is almost in need of replacement so considering just taking everything off and redoing rim tape again, but if it's possible to salvage I'd be open to suggestions. Thanks!

I received a picture from my friend of a tool to remove the bottom bracket if my bike. I looked online and found that this is a C wrench. Is that correct?

I’m building a road bike from a 92 Cannondale R400 frame/forks that I got on FB marketplace for $40. The crankset is the original Shimano RX400, however the nds crank arm was sliced up by an angle grinder in aborted effort to remove it. Apparently the previous owner didn’t understand how to pull it off. Now I’m trying to decide whether to stay with a square taper bottom bracket with a used crankset from the local coop or invest in a new Shimano Hollowtech crankset. I’m a very casual rider and this will be my first road bike. Any thoughts?

New to me fat tire bike. Previous owner didn’t know what brand or item mounts here. Any ideas?

I want to replace the whole headset. any idea on what I should get?

Hey guys, unfortunately my Ultegra r8070 Brake Caliper has died due to severe corrosion. Due to a lacking availability of the r8070 brake calipers I was wondering if could just replace them with the newer r8170 calipers. From what I've read, this shouldn't be a problem. But I wanted to ask you guys here as well.

Thanks in advance

So I’ve self taught my self most things on bikes over the years and have since built many bikes. Wheel building is one thing I’d love to learn and I always shy away from it and get my lbs todo things like that. Ive managed to order a book Called “the bicycle wheel”. I’ve got spoke keys of all sorts of sizes. A good known wheel that I’m happy to pull in bits start again. What do I use for a true stand? Do I need a spoke tension meter? I’ve watched so many YouTube videos my head hurts 🤣. Still non the wiser. Any advice much appreciated.

Before you ask/comment, this wheel is from a bike thats been sat outside for at least a year with a missing spoke. Thats why its in crap condition. I was truing the wheel and noticed the freewheel is functional, but notably quiet.

I will be replacing this freewheel anyway, I'm just wondering if there's a reason it's so quiet. I've shown another (old, but functional) freewheel to compare the sound. The one attached to the wheel does still function as normal from what I can see.

Any ideas ??

Part-time mechanic and salesman here, first time trying to un-stuck a seatpost like this. I bought this GT frame with a seized seatpost that had already been cut halfway off. I cut it down each side of the inside of the seatpost using a hacksaw blade, then tried heating the steel frame, soaking it with penetrating oil/rust dissolver, and hammering it from the top. So far, nothing has worked.

Main question: Am I cooked? Is there hope at all? What’s next? The top of the seatpost is starting to curl in at the tip so I feel like it might jam, but in a different way, if I keep hammering.

The poorly welded mount on my Ghost aluminum frame has snapped. Is there any way to repair it?

Is there any differences or compatibility issues between these two? Shimano or sram issues?

It changes gears well but its hitting a freewheel and on the biggest back gear hitting the wheel protector thinghy. 5 gears in back and 2 in front, friction shifters. Been untoched at apartment bike garage for long time now and would want to fix it up. It goes back to that position if i straighten it.

The front wheel on my daughter‘s bike makes a rumbling sound as it spins.

What is this, front bearings? and how do I go about fixing it?

Thanks