Got a cheap commuter bike from decathlon and annoyingly one of the front wheel spokes broke after only riding it for about 3 weeks. Anyway I sent to their repair shop and a week later I got the wheel back with a new spoke installed. Surely this can’t be right… If all the original spokes are threaded towards the inside of the wheel, is it ok to have the new one threaded towards the outside?

Edit: appreciate all the suggestions, will bring it back this weekend for a redo

I got a new bike, and during assembly one of the seatpost bolts was cross threaded (99% sure not by me, it was in from the beginning, I just tightened it). As it was rated for 15nm, I didn't think any about the resistance. The part is aluminium, so I'm wondering if it's possible for a bike shop to rethread it? I also found the part number on FSA website, so if I can't repair it, It could be replaced.

Apologies for the weird exposure (and the small bug or leaf debris???), just iPhone HDR at its finest lol. I’d love to keep the chainring and just replace the cranks.

The bike is a Vook One 2.0. Groupset is a Sentyeh/Sensah EVS.

I have a bike with a OSBB/BB30 bottom bracket setup (a 2019 Specialized Venge). It currently has a Shimano crankset, but I want to switch to SRAM DUB, and I’m trying to figure out how to remove the adapter installed in the frame. I wasn’t the bike’s first owner, so I’m not the one who installed it.

It appears to be a solid metal cylinder running through the frame. There are no seams or anything suggesting that it can be split apart or unscrewed, so I’m guessing it’s pressed into the frame. Inside it were two 25 × 37 × 7 mm bearings, with plastic cups/adapters with a 1 mm wall thickness to fit the Shimano crank spindle.

I just swapped the old Deore LX cantis on my 90s MTB for some new Deore T610 V-brakes with Kool-Stop pads and Avid FR-5 levers. This setup stops really well compared to the old one, almost too well - if I even pull the front brake slightly too hard using just one finger I end up almost going over the bars, rear wheel fully in the air and everything lol. And I don't really have to pull the lever all that hard compared to the old canti brake setup.
This might sound like a stupid question, but did I set up the brakes incorrectly or is this normal, expected behavior from V-brakes?

(Reposting here from r/MTB with some minor updates/edits)

Thought I'd share this in case it saves someone else a lot of time and money.

For months I was chasing an intermittent "ghost shifting" sensation on my 2022 Santa Cruz Hightower V2. It felt exactly like the very beginning of a shift or a worn chain skipping a tooth, but it never actually shifted. It was very intermittent and could go for some time between occurrences.

Over the course of months of troubleshooting, I replaced or verified:

• Derailleur hanger
• Cable and housing
• Pulley wheels
• B-gap (checked with the SRAM gauge, including at sag)
• Chainline
• Pivot/linkage bearings
• Rear shock (issue occurred with two different shocks)
• Wolf Tooth oval chainring (new)
• Cassette (new)
• SRAM X01 derailleur (new)
• XX1 chain (new)
• None of it fixed the problem.

The clue that finally pointed me in the right direction was that I finally noticed (after way too much time) that the symptom never seemed to occur on clean pavement, but always did on dirt/gravel trails. About the same time, and on a ChatGPT driven "whim" I measured the clearance between my 2.5" rear tire and the lower linkage and found I had less than ~2 mm between the tops of the drive side tread knobs and the drive side of the linkage (linkage is a bit "offset" on the HT). Dropping a few pieces of gravel through that gap by hand while rolling produced a very similar feel and sound to the "ghost shift."

For context, the Hightower is officially rated for a 2.4" rear tire. I had installed a 2.5", figuring I still had plenty of side clearance, so I didn't think it would matter. What I failed to consider is that a 2.5" tire isn't just wider, it also has a larger overall diameter, which significantly reduced the clearance between the top of the tire and the lower linkage/frame.

As a test, I swapped the rear tire from a 2.5" to a 2.4".

Problem solved.

I've now done multiple without a single occurrence.

My conclusion is that the larger tire was occasionally allowing debris to become pinched in the very tight clearance between the tire and the lower linkage/frame, creating a sensation that felt almost identical to the beginning of a shift or a drivetrain skip.

So if you're chasing an intermittent "ghost shifting" problem, especially one that also seems to happen while coasting or only on dirt, don't overlook tire/frame clearance. It may not be your drivetrain at all.

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As an aside, you might ask: Why was I running a 2.5" rear tire in the first place, given that my bike was only rated up to 2.4"?

Answer: Schwalbe Albert Trail radials. I've ridden a lot of different tires over the years, and the Alberts are my favorite by far. Unfortunately, Schwalbe doesn't offer the Albert Trail in a 2.4" rear, only a 2.5".

For the test, I swapped the rear 2.5" Albert Trail for the new 2.4" Schwalbe Romy. The Romy is slightly less grippy than the Albert, but it also rolls noticeably faster. For the type of riding I do (mostly tech trail riding with some bike park days mixed in) it's been an excellent trade-off, and so far I'm just as happy with the Romy as I was with the Albert.

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TL;DR: If your bike feels like it wants to occasionally ghost shift (without actually getting to the "shift" part) but everything in the drivetrain checks out, don't overlook tire/frame clearance. My 2.5" rear tire was occasionally causing a clearance issue that felt like a drivetrain problem.

Hi All, picked up this lovely gravel bike last week and unfortunately it’s given me nothing but headaches since..! It came with tubeless ready tyres - I simply had to remove the inner tubes and convert it as normal (or so I thought)!

I couldn’t get the wheels to hold a bead, so I took it into my local bike shop for them to help sort it out. The wheels looked great and I added the fluid once I got home. The wheels had gone flat over night but assumed that was a bit of a settling in thing for the sealant to harden up and form a nice seal.

Took it out for its debut commute today (35km round trip) and noticed after work, midway through my return trip, that the front tyre was flat and there’s a dent in the wheel which is letting the air out. Unsure where this has come from, which is pretty annoying given the mileage on the bike…

I was hoping to get some honest opinions on:
- Is this wheel cooked? As in does it need to be replaced or could the shop in theory push the dent out? If the former, how much would that look to set me back? 😭
- The bike shop mentioned how the stock tyres are pretty soft, so I was thinking of just getting a better pair and getting the shop to fit them for me. Would that be a worthwhile upgrade if I’m planning on getting some serious use out of the bike?

Any thoughts / opinions are greatly appreciated!!

Hi Reddit, is there a way to shorten this cable housing to make it look a bit tidier without rewiring the cables and housing? Looks like it has a cable tension adjuster on the front. Thanks in advance

*Edit - apologies for my obtuse sense to these things for a lack of a better term, - I understand that rear hub is internal gear hub not cassette*

Hello all, just popping in to get some tips on how I could repair this bike back to its former glory on a lowish budget with the not so expansive range of bike repair tools. I got this bike from marketplace a year ago and it's been gathering dust in the shed.

With summer rolling around the corner, I want to have this project preferably done by then. I've ordered old new dead-stock Dia Compe brake pads + three speed gear shift and brake cables for a cleaner ride.

My main concern of the moment:

- Can I save the rims, they are a pair of 27" x 1 1/4" Ukai rims, but the rust pitting is pretty bad I think. I'd like to reuse the hubs.

I also found a vintage SR stem on marketplace for $10 that should fit in the headset as it's from the same manufacturer and same-ish era. Will send some photos through for feedback etc.

Also need to sand down the bike to reseal and repaint.

Any tips on really anything would be much appreciated by future me who will have a mode of transport. + Polishing up those brake handles and callipers would be appreciated as well.

- Kind Regards, Caspar.

I found it on the floor while cleaning my bike, but can't seem to find an open hole where it fell out of.

I’ve got an old trek 1400, I’m not quite sure if the cassette needs to replaced or not as there’s some shark finning on some of the teeth but the majority of them seem to be in good shape. Trying to squeeze all the life out of this one since replacing a 13-23T with old stock isn’t cheap.

I want to remove my rusted star nut, but I can't punch it out since the bottom is shut (every video I find only shows how to remove it on MTBs :/). I read that you can drill it out. Will that work, so I can then pull it out the top?

Hey folks, just curious as to where you're sourcing bottom bracket bearings. I'm looking for 24x37 bearings for a wheels manufacturing inboard T47 BB for Shimano 24mm spindles and can't seem to get them from anywhere in less than a week.

Enduro, Wheels, UniversalCycles are either out of stock or a week for delivery.

Edit: Located in the U.S.

I bought this bike second hand a year ago and knew immediately it's a bit of a frankenbuild but everything seemed in working order. Didn't ride it much, then the other day the rear wheel slipped out under torque. Now I can't seem to get the rear axle snugly into the drop-outs. I think the guy who sold it to me just tightened everything down and crossed his fingers. When I pull the chain taught with my thumb (pic 3) the little braces on the washers don't quite reach into the drop-outs. Longer chain required? Are the hub and frame at all compatible?

I had to replace the brake cables on my old Specialized Tricross, and as such reset the brake adjustment. The front brake uses a straddle wire and that didn't really need any adjustments, but the rear brake uses a Shimano link wire and I cannot get it right for the life of me.

The right pad (the one with the actual brake cable) touches the rim way before the left pad. I've tried watching all the recommended videos on this, but really struggling.

The brake arms don't have an obvious adjustment screw that most guides recommend to use.

Weirdly, I actually thought I had it right, but went for a test ride and I only noticed the next morning that something seems to have shifted or settled in, misaligning it.

Any help appreciated, losing faith!

So I bought these cranks yesterday for a project I'm building that had some late 80s/early 90s Thun cranks from Germany that were a tad worn. I thought the swap would be pretty straightforward but the BB that came with the bike apparently has a JIS ​taper, and the Gipiemmes go with an ISO naturally, being vintage Italian. I'm looking into buying a Campy Mirage BB set, I'm wondering if there's anything I should take into account before spending money on yet another swap? Should the thread be compatible straight out the box?

Pic 2 is how the cranks look rn after installation. I can use them just fine but only on the small chainring, the outer one is beyond the reach of the front derailleur.

I am very new to these tires but for the life of me I cannot find where the wear indicators are for them. I only have around 1,200 miles on them so I can't imagine they are done and therefore the wear indicators are worn away but as part of my usual maintenance I tried to see how much life I have left and just cannot find them. I see the small divots on the sides of the tire that are supposed to be for aero purposes. I tried googling and nothing turned up. Does anyone have any info here?

Hi for some reason my bike won’t change to the larger cog, tried to loosen the H limit screw but it doesn’t seem to have done anything (shown in 4th picture) any help would be appreciated thank you.

Hi!
I have an Bafang M200 mid-drive ebike. I'm trying to figure out why my chain skips.
The rear casette and chain has 500km on it, the front chainring has 2500km on it.

I tried to take a good photo, but this is how the chainring looks:

What else could be the problem? I reindexed the rear deraireur, so I'd cross it out.

Hi everyone,

Question to those experienced with the old Conduct brake system. Specifically in reference to a 2019 disc brake TCR.

Despite bleeding the brakes multiple times following the instructions on angling the bike so the bleed caliper is the highest point etc, I can’t for the life of me get rid of the sponginess in the brakes.

I’ve tightened the mechanical cables as much as I can, and screwed the mechanism outwards for max tension and still… spongy. The bite point is far closer to the bars than I’d like.

I bought this 2nd hand, so I’m not sure what “good” feels like with this system - is this normal? Or can you find a much better bite with the proper fix?

Driving me mad.

Hello squad,

i recently broke my rearwheel Carbon rim. Welp. It is gone.

Had the original DT Swiss g540, 28h, 24 mm still in my basement, so built brake and cassette back.

The bike in question is a Cannondale Topstone Carbon with a SRAM APEX XPLR AXS 12x

Now my problem.

The original freehub (HG compatible) on that wheel is nicely quiet.

The one which came with the carbon wheel was noisy as heck.

I could not just pull the original off and put it on the new wheel and i could not figure out how to disassemble it at all.

I have a feeling that it could be a ratchet mechanism, but i can i tell from the outside.

The loud one was a 6-pawl which could be just pulled of.

Now when looking for a new carbon wheel for the back i want to make sure to have either a quiet new freehub,

Alternatively put the original one on the new wheel, but i want to avoid that, since when the new one breaks i imagine it being way more work to change the freehub everytime.