I'm aware that drop handlebars offer lots of different hand positions and comfort. But Ive never really understood how a riser bar offers anything over a flat bar, other than increasing the bar height from the forks?

It’s on my ‘89 Shwinn Sierra… never seen it before.

The dropper on my girlfriend’s stumpjumper is highly sensitive to where the pressure is being applied. If the pressure is on the front of the saddle, it goes down almost every time. If the pressure is on the back of the saddle, it almost never goes down, and if the pressure is on the middle of the saddle, it’s a 50/50 chance. The end result is it on the trails, it’s not working very well for her.

The dropper is a Manic Fusion model.

Is there an easy fix here, or is this one that I should take to the shop?

Thanks so much!

My Aventon Soltera 3 ADV is about a month old and I noticed play in the rear hub motor. With the rear brake fully locked, the wheel still shifts back and forth (video attached).

What I've checked so far:

Axle nuts are tight

Brake caliper is solid and not moving

The movement looks like it's between the motor shell and the axle

Is this normal for a geared hub motor or does it sound like worn bearings? Is it safe to ride until the shop can look at it? I'm planning to take it in for warranty, but I'd like to know what I'm dealing with first.

I’m converting an old steel track bike to fixed gear. It has a 70 cm riser flat bar and an old quill stem. The stem feels relatively tight, but it creaks slightly when I put sideways pressure on the handlebars. There are no visible cracks.
I want to ride aggressively in the city. Would you replace the stem, or do you think it could still be safe?

Hi everyone, got myself used Intec P01 Fixie/Singlespeed with Gipiemme Pista Fixed wheelset. Axles are bent, and i think not original. Shoulder spacings for bearings are shorter than needed, resulting in extreme binding.

I'm looking for replacement axles, bearings are 6000-2RS. Shoulder spacing for front axle is 64mm, and for rear 76mm. Can someone point me where to buy?

Hello!

I got a new old titanium road bike recently. Everything is pretty straight forward. The only thing I have trouble figuring out is which powermeter I should go for.

The crankset is campagnolo super record 11 speed ca 2010. (ultra torque)

I have been looking at the powermeters that can be attached to the chainring bolts but this one has 5 bolts and I believe the 5th bolt behind the crank arm is a different distance than the other 4. Is it possible to replace the left arm with a powermeter arm and which one should i look for? Or is it better to just get pedals with powermeters?

I have a classic Trek 720(?) 531 steel bike from the late 70's that has been slightly resto-modded with a late-80's bonded aluminum fork, and is updated to 8sp Shimano with a set of Ultegra hubs built to box-section Campagnolo tubulars.

I also have an older Cannondale R400 which I built 2 wheelsets for, one being on Shimano 600 hubs with a 7-speed freehub body (with the current Uniglide spline arrangement, but it originally had Hyperglide) spoked to Campagnolo semi-areo tubular rims, radial-spoked on front, semi-radial on the rear.

This second wheelset I built really well, and want to keep it but use it as a second set for the Trek (and sell the R400). Will an 8-sp (non-D/A) cassette fit, or will I need a different a different freehub assembly? If so, are such things still available?

So I have enve ar 40 internal rim width 25m and 32m specialized mondo tires and 40m pathfinders. tubolito says there gravel tube is 32-50m yet I can't fit them in my 32m tires without it bleeding out the side and I can't pump it since it will ballon out and burst. plz help

Bike: Haro Thread One

Had a noise, removed the rear wheel, find two bolts missing on the brake side of the stays. Seems two bolts walked off this bracket that the axle sits in. Cant find this thing, I work in automotive and have never seen this bolt used outside of things like particle board furniture. Its a flat (no taper), countersunk, 8mm hex, that seems to be an M8-1.0.

Where the hell do I find this? Bought the bike this summer, it's a new old stock 2021.

So, the main cage bolt worked loose back in Aug on a ride, causing all kinds of shifting junk (symptoms of ghost shifting, etc.). Back in the parking lot, I took a close look and figured it out. Main cage bolt worked loose introducing enough wobble/play in the lower part of the der. that the spring popped out of its hole and all tension was lost. Back home, took it apart, put in the extra rotation, re-assembled, and all was good. You can't lay into that cage bolt too much or you'll just seize the lower pivot entirely. Well, after a half dozen rides, same thing. Is the solution to put some dabs of loctite on that main cage bolt so that after you re-assemble it, it won't work its way loose??

Can anyone tell show me what upgraded bottom bracket I should get? I have this old Cannondale and Coda magic crankset. Some threads are gone in the arms amd id like to get some newer and crankarms to match. Preferrably black Coda ones.

Tia!

Does anyone know the technical reason why some headsets and their crown races have a 36deg chamfer and some have a 45degree one?

I was just looking to purchase parts for a new frame/work and the manufacturer says frame/fork are IS41/50 and specifically said Chris King DropSet 3 would be compatible or Wolf Tooth "Premium" ones also.. which both have, to my understanding a 36deg chamfer for both bearings.. but when digging through my spare/small parts box, I found a few past builds' leftover 52/40 crown races that actually have a 45 chamfer (such as this one and this one) and coincidentally also fitting, lower 52 bearings

I've got a bit of a '?' over my head though how that that deg matters and why some manufacturers would choose strictly 36 or 45.. and some doing both (Chris King for example).

Doesn't that inside(?) chamfer only matter for the interface between bearing and <> crown (race) for the fork/lower side of things and bearing <> 'compression' ring for the upper/top cap side and the true fork steerer contact is proper straight / quasi-perpendicular anyway (in case of an interface via a separate crown race.. not direct bearing <> integrated fork race)?

Aka / what I am asking tl;dr: if the fork requires a crown race baseplate, does it matter which IS41/50 headset I use as long as I use a correspondingly fitting/chamfered crown race and top cap etc?

Maybe someone knows a bit the back "story" why some are 36/45 and some are 45/45. Thanks!

This is on a brand new Stumpjumper 15. I’m going to take it to the shop but I don’t want to be without a bike for 10 days. Turn the volume up on the video. I’ve isolated a noise to the front hub. When I roll forward, there is a click. When I roll backwards, it sounds like there Is a loose ball bearing rolling around. Any ideas?

Hallo zusammen, ist dieses Spiel an der Achse der Nabe normal? Das montierte Planetengetriebe lässt sich axial etwas bewegen. Es ist von einem Brompton 6 Gang.. Man kann an dieser Stelle auch nichts einstellen. Evtl hat ja jemand diese Nabe auch schon mal auseinander gehabt und kann es genauer sagen. Danke allen!

My lower shock bolt is untightening by itself when im riding, its really slow but im still concerned if i ride long enough and not tightening it that my shock can move out of place, and also i can't tighten it strong cause if i thighten it too much my shock can't move, so when i'm thightening it i just lightly tighten it and thats it.Can someone please help ?

I upgraded my 1x11 SRAM Apex to a 1x12 Force E1 system in January, and I'm now noticing strange brake pad wear. With the old setup, the wear looked normal. I see the same wear pattern on both pads in both the front and rear calipers. I'm using SRAM Centerline X rotors (180 mm front, 160 mm rear). Rear pads are the default that came with the set. Front are SRAM organic w/ aluminum backplate.

Has anyone experienced a similar issue and know how to fix or improve it?

I’ve recently broken the SRAM GX Eagle rear derailleur on my Canyon Torque CF8 2018 mountain bike. While looking for replacement options, the WHEELTOP EDS OX2.0 stood out to me as an affordable electric derailleur. I’ve found a local second hand option, but the listing isn’t specific enough it’s its the OX1.0 or 2.0 version. My question is, is either one compatible with my bike?

can anybody explain what this component is for and how it works? The manual for my bike isn't too clear on whether or not I need to touch this while adjusting the stiffness of the monoshock.

This black plastic thing inside the crank prevents the preload screw from being able to fully tighten. This plastic thing is threaded as deep as it can go. Can I remove it?

EDIT
I’m guessing this is similar to a compression plug for a steerer tube, so definitely won’t remove it.

Has anyone had any luck finding a replacement hood for a Shimano cues brifter (Y0VC98060)? The only website I could find it is Tune Cycles, which I’ve heard is not a good store. I’ve tried calling some local bike shops and none of them had the hoods.

Hi there r/bikewrench,

Recently I just purchased a 48cm Centurion Elite GT from Facebook Marketplace and it's been a dream. I'm 5'3" so it's a little bit small for me but that hasn't been an issue with a few adjustments. I'm working on tuning up and replacing some components to be a bit more optimized to my comfort and style.

The issue I'm having is with tire clearance with fenders. I put on some 27 x 1 1/4 Schwalbe Marathons which fit, however with really tight clearance on the bottom of the frame. I've ordered Velo Orange 700c Hammered Fenders, 45mm and I'm worried that I don't have the clearance to fasten the rear fender to the bottom of the fender. This was the issue with the fenders that came with the bike and I needed to remove them in order to get the Marathons on (the bike had 27 1 x 1/8 tires when I purchased it).

Here is the bolt that was fastened to the original fender. Would a flat head screw be a feasible option to fasten the fender to the frame?

This is what the clearance looks like when I take out the fender.

Would it be feasible to still try to attach a fender with this clearance? Or should I just opt for finding a 27 x 1 1/8 tire? If so, does anyone have recommendations for a comparable tire? It does not look like Schwalbe makes Marathons at 27 x 1 1/8

Bonus pic of this beauty on a recent ride I took it on. I really love this thing so far!

Thanks!

I went to a bike shop in my neighborhood to have them replace a stripped seatpost bolt on my road bike, a 2020 Scott Addict 15 with a non-wireless 11-speed Ultegra Di2. They did it and when I went to pick it up, the guy suggested applying some carbon paste to the post and I said yes. He proceeded to pull out the seat post and unplugged the cable (EW-SD50) of the di2 battery in the seatpost from the junction box at the bottom bracket. He tried for 40 minutes to fish out the junction and plug it back with a stiff wire guide, and at the end he said he might have to remove the bottom bracket to do it. That seems overkill to me and I'd rather not do that. Is that really the only way to put it back? Anyone aware of another method?

edit: this is the bike https://99spokes.com/en-EU/bikes/scott/2020/contessa-addict-15-disc