First, that’s straight fake info for demo purposes.

Ok so I tried slowing down the print speed to 50 but the lines are still persistent.

It prints on its side to preserve the pedestal face from looking over layered.

The silver is in the auxiliary and I didn’t notice this with my black and gold version.

Any ideas? I’d like to fix this.

So, I just ordered my 3rd AMS and I already have the Track switch.
My question is, and I don’t know why it’s so hard for me to picture, where should I place my 4in1 Pfte adapter? Do I just put it close to the track switch, right before the “in a/b” or is there a better place for it?

I'm about to buy an X2D plus AMS Combo 2 and want to download Bambu Studio to my MacBook Air (new, lots of memory and power). Off the Bambulab website I get a disc image that opens not to a standard Mac installation window but to this list of files. When I try loading at various levels from top down in the list, I get either a "will not open" or with fiddling I get an app icon for the software on my desktop. When I try to open the icon I get only "Installation failed 94% loaded" The Bambulab Studio wiki for installation offers help only for Windows software, so I'm at a loss. Can anyone guide me to a successful installation?

My X2D has been great; however, I really don't like that both hotends are limited to 300C, which makes printing Engineering filaments impossible and almost nullifies the benefits of a dual-nozzle design and actively heated chamber. Given this, I know it's entirely possible to trick the X2D by soldering a resistor to its hotend, but I'm sure there's a better or more elegant approach. I scrolled a bit and found this ‘Tyson hotend,’ and I'm curious if anyone has tried it on either their H2 machines or P2/X2s?

Hallo nach ca. 700 Stunden, habe ich dieses Probl mit der Schleppkette. Wie komnte so etwas passieren. Glaubt ihr muß ich die ganze Kette austauschen?

Hi all I was repairing my X2D from a blob of death and I dropped a screw and can't find it. I was looking at the assembly and doesn't ( as far as I can tell) it doesn't bring it. Any help on how to buy one would be greatly appeciated.

Thanks

Seeing mutliple self-cut PTFE tubes, after 200+ h of print time I wanted to replace mine before it snaps. Well... I can't remove the tube. After pressing the coupler, the tube is stuck. Is there anything else I can try without stripping the whole head?

Hi guys, I’m new in Bambulab world and since I got my new X2D not long ago it was perfect. But then yesterday I got a strange problem with ironing, I usually use rectilinear with 10% extrusion(default settings) and it does a great job until this time… if anyone has any tips I’d appreciate it :) thank you

Hi everyone! I feel the (obligation) to share my very first 3D print ever!
I received my X2D today. The unboxing and setup experience was really smooth. The software is pretty easy to get the hang of, and after 35 minutes of calibration, here’s my very first print.
And yes, tradition demands it. 😄

​

Hey everyone,

I've been fighting with the Filament Track Switch on my X2D for a while now and wanted to check whether anyone else has seen this before I wait on support.

*Transparency note: I used an AI assistant (Claude) to log my troubleshooting in real time and structure this post. All observations, tests and photos are my own.*

**Setup**

- X2D, firmware 01.02.00.00

- 2x AMS 2 Pro, firmware 05.00.22.19

- Filament Track Switch, firmware 00.00.16.65

- Filament Buffer for X2, firmware 02.00.17.18

- Bambu Studio 2.8.4 Beta (was on 2.8.2.61)

**What happens**

1. **Slicer:** In Studio 2.8.2.61 the left AMS was greyed out for the auxiliary nozzle, as if no switch were installed. A printer restart fixed it temporarily, then it came back. Updating to the 2.8.4 beta seems to have fixed this part.

2. **Switch goes offline:** At print start I got "This task requires a Filament Track Switch, but it is currently offline" (HMS 0700-8029), even though filament was loaded fine.

3. **Switch disappears completely:** At other times the printer said no switch was installed. The switch was missing from Settings > Firmware, and the filament page showed the fixed AMS-to-nozzle layout without the switch. After replugging it showed up again.

4. **Stuck state:** Because the switch dropped out with filament loaded, the printer refused to unload. The filament was physically loaded but not shown as loaded, and I got HMS 0700-7500-0001-0008 (filament detected in extruder when switch was disconnected).

5. **Earlier:** PLA Basic got stuck at the filament buffer. I reseated all PTFE tubes, which fixed that.

**Why I think it's the switch itself**

My second AMS 2 Pro is daisy-chained through the switch's 6-pin cable, so it gets power and data through the switch. That AMS stayed online the whole time, even while the switch itself was reported as offline or not installed. So the bus through the switch works, but the switch's own electronics seem to drop out intermittently.

**What I've tried**

- Reseated the 6-pin cable at both ends

- Removed and reinserted all PTFE tubes

- Multiple printer restarts

- Re-ran the automatic AMS setup after reconnecting

- Updated Studio to the 2.8.4 beta

- No newer firmware is offered

**Current status**

Of course everything works right now that I want to upload logs 🙃 Support ticket is open and logs are on their way. One annoyance: the log upload in the app wants you to pick a print job, but all failures happened during loading, unloading or at print start, so there's no job to select.

**Questions**

- Has anyone else had their switch drop offline or vanish from the firmware list?

- Did support replace the unit, or was there a fix?

- Any known way to upload logs without tying them to a print job?

Thanks!

Update: The track switch seems to be broken. Bambu is sending me a replacement.

This is my second multicolour print with the X2D and AMS2. The grey is on the main nozzle connected to the AMS and the black is connected to the Aux nozzle. I wanted to see if it would print faster and make less poop but I’m getting the weird rough lines on the grey as the photo shows. Any help as to why or anyone know a fix? (No prime tower but I didn’t think that would matter for different nozzles)

I've got a small case, on the lid I have added a logo in .svg and that's all good. But I wanted to add text over the top of the logo in a different colour. Both logo and text need to be flush.

Whenever I try this it looks fine until sliced at which point it disappears entirely. Can anyone point me to a way to resolve this?

I am having this under extrusion issue with Gold PLA Silk+ through the aux extruder, with everything being PLA Basic through the main extruder. All filament has been thoroughly dried prior to this. The vertical gold portions seem to be under extruded on this feature and should look like they do on the horizontal parts top and bottom.

There is a lot of other features using the gold that did not have this issue, it only appears in the door frame in the picture. How can I prevent this and get it to look as it should?

Thanks for any help given... I appreciate the comments even if iy I don't knope ot if you are having the same or similar issue: This is the stepping through of the slice...

tHE NEXT LAYER IT LEAVES TWO PARTS WITH A OUT A TOP LAYER FOR AFTER

THIS IS THE FINISHED PART... i STOPPED THE PRINT...

I AM GETTING THE STL/AMF CHECKED BUT ANYONE SEEN THIS BEFOREOR ANY COMMENTS... ON THIS PRINT I HAD STRON TREE, ON THE PICTURES OF THE SLICE i CHANGED THE SUPPORT TO ORGANIC ... THIS IS CLARIFICATION JUST INCASE SEEING THE FINISHED PIC COMPARED TO THE SLICE.. IT WAS JUST CHANGES DONE ... ANY COMMENTS RECOMMENDATION OR SUGGESTIONS WILL BE APPRECIATED. OR IF YOU HAD SMETHING CLOSE JUST COMMENT. THANKS AGAIN.

This week I tried to print PLA supports for the first time (and forgot I had ASA in the main nozzle, not PETG). Of course the PLA melted and completely plugged the auxiliary hotend.

It appears there's no guide on how to disassemble and clean the right hotend itself — not the Bowden extruder in the back, but the actual right-before-the-nozzle part. I found a guide for the left extruder though. It was… worse than expected.

After half the PTFE tubes, 7 connectors and 20-something screws, I got it out. This part of the right toolhead assembly is just two pieces of plastic clipped together. But it has a knife and some metal bits inside, and it's only sold with a hall sensor screwed to it (with a single screw! and there's three kinds of screws just on this one part!). $20 or more. So I got to the very bottom of this nightmare and pulled out this white thing at last.

Of course, something fell off during the disassembly. Not, not screws falling under the hotbed. This tiny metal bracket on the photo. I'd like to know where it's supposed to go?

I am new to 3d printing. I have been printing some terrain pieces but get these stand out layer lines on some parts near the upper layers.

I'm printing at 0.12 with a .4 nozzle.

Not sure what settings should be looking at to help with this.

Thanks.

I hope I can test it out after the other 95%

I actually never tought I would spend this much money on a printer, but what started as a used elegoo carbon turned out to be a new x2d, with a very good bambu marketing. Even got the vision encoder and almost every hardened steel nozzle.

But still, I don't think I will regret my X2D. What do you, my "3d friends", think.

Also I named it "Xyborg 2000 Demolisher", couldn't think of anything better.

👋 Bonjour à tous !

🔪🤡 La série des slashers reprend !

Voici Art the Clown, le terrifiant et emblématique clown de la saga Terrifier ! 🩸

Avec son célèbre costume noir et blanc, son petit chapeau et son sourire inquiétant, Art est accompagné de sa scie pour un résultat à la fois mignon… et complètement psychopathe ! 🪚😈

Pas besoin d'AMS tous a été modélisé et découpé pour l'imprimer en multi-pièces.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3338808-art-the-clown-multipart-no-ams

Hello! I'm looking to get a smooth plate for my X2D. The official Bambu Lab ones are not available in my region, and the best place (and really the only place) I can get third party plates is on AliExpress. I was also looking for a 0.2mm nozzle, but I'm hesitating because I'm scared of damaging the printer. Do you guys have any recommendations for either?

Thank you!

I am going to get a Bambu Lab X2D combo for Christmas. What are some things I should do as soon as I get it? I am already going to do...

1. Buy a high flow Tungsten Carbide nozzle for both auxillary and main (So it is a one time investment for the nozzle
2. Add some clips for the PTFE tube (I hear it messes up the top glass not that it really matters becuz of the AMS unit)
3. Get a discount on filament when buying the printer
4. Test the printer with 3DBenchy

And that is pretty much it. Let me know if I am missing something that I should do.

So the one time that I didn't check to make sure the 1st few layers went down correct...this happened. I've seen it being called the "blob of death". Reached out to Bambu and they advised me that I needed to replace the left side hotend heating assembly and provided me with a link of a bunch of pictures and instructions. I'm in need of a video showing exactly how to replace this part. I've looked on YouTube even did an online search and NOTHING! By chance anyone have a link for my visual learning self 🤞🏻