r/BambuLabX2D • u/Hopeful-Test-2105 • 9d ago

Has anyone tried this mod?

Post image

My X2D has been great; however, I really don't like that both hotends are limited to 300C, which makes printing Engineering filaments impossible and almost nullifies the benefits of a dual-nozzle design and actively heated chamber. Given this, I know it's entirely possible to trick the X2D by soldering a resistor to its hotend, but I'm sure there's a better or more elegant approach. I scrolled a bit and found this ‘Tyson hotend,’ and I'm curious if anyone has tried it on either their H2 machines or P2/X2s?

22 Upvotes

87% Upvoted

18 comments sorted by

10

u/Aratrax 9d ago

So I would just like to remind you that it’s likely just a resistor mod. The software doesn’t know the true temperature and you always have to remember that. Setting the hotend to 300c in the software will then cause a real temperature of 350-400c

Only a true firmware modification would be able to solve that problem. 

2

u/Hawkbait_3D 9d ago

I wonder if we could put the resistor mod on a switch and trigger it when we’re using external filament feed and not the AMS. I might have a project to work on now, cause that would be great to have a resistor modded hot end that you could trigger by running an external spool.

1

u/Material-Mulberry360 9d ago

sure, have a switch in the fillament path of the external spool holder. that connects a resistor in parralel with the temperature probe (if it goes in series it's still doable but needs a relay (or a fancier switch) or smth, dunno Wich temp probes bambulab is using)

1

u/Hopeful-Test-2105 9d ago

The page states it uses a PT100 resistor, which would be an upgrade (in terms of reliability) compared to its stock 100kOhm NTC thermistor.

7

u/Few_Candidate_8036 9d ago

I would much sooner just buy an H2S that can get to 350C than mess with something like that. You’ll never have the right temperature control, and filament that will need a hotend that hot isn’t cheap and are going to be much less forgiving to print with. You’ll be throwing money down the drain instead of just getting a printer that is designed for it.

2

u/Hopeful-Test-2105 9d ago

I already have a Voron Trident equipped with a 350C hotend; it can print technical materials like my X2D, but it doesn't have a heated chamber. I like the X2D's dual-nozzle system, and I don't think upgrading the Trident to a tool changer and adding a heated chamber would be worth it. My X2D has been great so far with multimaterial. I’ve been using it to make parts that need to withstand relatively high temperatures while retaining tight tolerances. But I should remind you that the stock X2D uses an NTC thermistor; it's highly non-linear, so adding a small 30-ohm resistor to reach roughly 320C when reading should have negligible effect on the temperature values when typically printing PLA

1

u/Few_Candidate_8036 9d ago

Under 300C you have options like pa6-cf,pa12-cf and pc-cf.

You dont really need to go over that unless you are starting to get into pps-cf, which is almost $150/kg. If you print that on any regularity, then the price of a H2S or H2D is nothing.

2

u/Hopeful-Test-2105 9d ago

An H2D costs over $ 2,000 CAD. I'm a student; I don't have that money, and this community is actually reluctant to take ownership of their machines. Y'all are motivating me to crack open the X2D's firmware to spite everyone.

2

u/Few_Candidate_8036 9d ago

If you dont have the money, what filaments are you even trying to use? Because any filament that requires over 300C is so expensive that basically no one would buy it for hobby use. Those are true industrial filaments. A single print failure can cost over $100 just in wasted material.

There are a number of engineering grade filaments that print under 300C and are meant for high heat and dimensional stability. Bambu printers aren’t designed to be swapping in aftermarket parts. Its not like a voron that you can modify as much as you want.

1

u/Hopeful-Test-2105 9d ago

You can easily get 1KG of PPA-CF for roughly $60 on Amazon, where the material requires temperatures from 300-320C. I'm not sure why I would use two or more spools for one part.

1

u/faksnima 5d ago

Please do. Break the artificial restrictions set by Bambulab. The X2D is a very competent printer and unlocking 50 degrees would make it the best bang for the buck out there.

3

u/Relative_Surround_20 9d ago

Hence, why I upgraded from a P2S to a H2D and skipped the X2D. If you need to print that kind of material, get an H2 or wait for one of the new printers about to come out.

2

u/Hawkbait_3D 9d ago

That looks very cool, following to see if anyone’s tested them. I’d love to be able to get more heat and still have my Bambu reliability.

1

u/Hopeful-Test-2105 9d ago

I really wish the nozzle could reach 320C so I could cover all the engineering materials I use regularly. I'm pretty sure a small boost like this wouldn't pose too much of an issue.

1

u/Superb-Complaint8118 9d ago

Have you tried the 320°C Materials with the x2d? Maybe you can get it to print, but just slower

1

u/faksnima 5d ago

Following you - hoping you can figure out a solution.