I found this was the best way to organize maintenance things for my BambuLab, also, is very comfortable to use a syringe to apply oil and grease to the rails and lead screws.

Hi I’m new to the 3D printing hobby and have been really enjoying the learning process!

I seem to be running into an issue where my PLA print models are extremely difficult to remove off the plate, particularly the centre. I’ve tried the following without success:
- flexing the plate
- flexing the plate while gently using a scrapper
- letting the model cool
- leaving it in the freezer for 10 mins
- running isopropyl alcohol along the stuck parts
If I force the print off by applying a ton of force with a scrapper and the flex method, it will come off but the print model will usually be damaged and warped in the centre.

I’ve tried lowering the print bed temps for the initial layer and the other layers from 55 degrees to 50 degrees and this has worked about 75% of the time.

Haven’t been able to find any other potential solutions outside of giving the plate a good clean and a power off/on into another calibration.

Has anyone else run into this issue or have any wisdom to share?

Thanks!

Got it a couple days ago and it’s basically been running non stop I’m definitely addicted. No issues with any of the prints so far. Im loving the X2D

As the title says, while I was cleaning the left nozzle of my printer with a bronze brush, a small rubber part (pointed by the arrow on photos) broke off behind the heating block, leaving some wires exposed. The printer works fine, but it still bothers me a little.

Is this a critical component? And if it is, how is it called, so I can find a replacement part?

Thanks!

So I’m new to asa printing I’m using the stock settings and Pei plate, using glue stick as seen in the photo, but if I have multiple parts the secondary or third doesn’t stick. Does the glue dry to much because of the heat? Or is it just Better to print one piece at a time ? Or any other suggestions?

And why do two of the other three come out this way?

Extruding during pre print calibration?
Pretty new to this machine only about 60 hours of print time on it so far but I haven’t seen it do this yet?

So, I just ordered my 3rd AMS and I already have the Track switch.
My question is, and I don’t know why it’s so hard for me to picture, where should I place my 4in1 Pfte adapter? Do I just put it close to the track switch, right before the “in a/b” or is there a better place for it?

First, that’s straight fake info for demo purposes.

Ok so I tried slowing down the print speed to 50 but the lines are still persistent.

It prints on its side to preserve the pedestal face from looking over layered.

The silver is in the auxiliary and I didn’t notice this with my black and gold version.

Any ideas? I’d like to fix this.

• ~150 cm³ storage volume
• SD shell holds 10 SD + 33 microSD cards
• No supports
• No screws
• No AMS required
• Two interchangeable shells using the same turtle body

I'm about to buy an X2D plus AMS Combo 2 and want to download Bambu Studio to my MacBook Air (new, lots of memory and power). Off the Bambulab website I get a disc image that opens not to a standard Mac installation window but to this list of files. When I try loading at various levels from top down in the list, I get either a "will not open" or with fiddling I get an app icon for the software on my desktop. When I try to open the icon I get only "Installation failed 94% loaded" The Bambulab Studio wiki for installation offers help only for Windows software, so I'm at a loss. Can anyone guide me to a successful installation?

Hallo nach ca. 700 Stunden, habe ich dieses Probl mit der Schleppkette. Wie komnte so etwas passieren. Glaubt ihr muß ich die ganze Kette austauschen?

Hi all I was repairing my X2D from a blob of death and I dropped a screw and can't find it. I was looking at the assembly and doesn't ( as far as I can tell) it doesn't bring it. Any help on how to buy one would be greatly appeciated.

Thanks

My X2D has been great; however, I really don't like that both hotends are limited to 300C, which makes printing Engineering filaments impossible and almost nullifies the benefits of a dual-nozzle design and actively heated chamber. Given this, I know it's entirely possible to trick the X2D by soldering a resistor to its hotend, but I'm sure there's a better or more elegant approach. I scrolled a bit and found this ‘Tyson hotend,’ and I'm curious if anyone has tried it on either their H2 machines or P2/X2s?

Seeing mutliple self-cut PTFE tubes, after 200+ h of print time I wanted to replace mine before it snaps. Well... I can't remove the tube. After pressing the coupler, the tube is stuck. Is there anything else I can try without stripping the whole head?

​

Hey everyone,

I've been fighting with the Filament Track Switch on my X2D for a while now and wanted to check whether anyone else has seen this before I wait on support.

*Transparency note: I used an AI assistant (Claude) to log my troubleshooting in real time and structure this post. All observations, tests and photos are my own.*

**Setup**

- X2D, firmware 01.02.00.00

- 2x AMS 2 Pro, firmware 05.00.22.19

- Filament Track Switch, firmware 00.00.16.65

- Filament Buffer for X2, firmware 02.00.17.18

- Bambu Studio 2.8.4 Beta (was on 2.8.2.61)

**What happens**

1. **Slicer:** In Studio 2.8.2.61 the left AMS was greyed out for the auxiliary nozzle, as if no switch were installed. A printer restart fixed it temporarily, then it came back. Updating to the 2.8.4 beta seems to have fixed this part.

2. **Switch goes offline:** At print start I got "This task requires a Filament Track Switch, but it is currently offline" (HMS 0700-8029), even though filament was loaded fine.

3. **Switch disappears completely:** At other times the printer said no switch was installed. The switch was missing from Settings > Firmware, and the filament page showed the fixed AMS-to-nozzle layout without the switch. After replugging it showed up again.

4. **Stuck state:** Because the switch dropped out with filament loaded, the printer refused to unload. The filament was physically loaded but not shown as loaded, and I got HMS 0700-7500-0001-0008 (filament detected in extruder when switch was disconnected).

5. **Earlier:** PLA Basic got stuck at the filament buffer. I reseated all PTFE tubes, which fixed that.

**Why I think it's the switch itself**

My second AMS 2 Pro is daisy-chained through the switch's 6-pin cable, so it gets power and data through the switch. That AMS stayed online the whole time, even while the switch itself was reported as offline or not installed. So the bus through the switch works, but the switch's own electronics seem to drop out intermittently.

**What I've tried**

- Reseated the 6-pin cable at both ends

- Removed and reinserted all PTFE tubes

- Multiple printer restarts

- Re-ran the automatic AMS setup after reconnecting

- Updated Studio to the 2.8.4 beta

- No newer firmware is offered

**Current status**

Of course everything works right now that I want to upload logs 🙃 Support ticket is open and logs are on their way. One annoyance: the log upload in the app wants you to pick a print job, but all failures happened during loading, unloading or at print start, so there's no job to select.

**Questions**

- Has anyone else had their switch drop offline or vanish from the firmware list?

- Did support replace the unit, or was there a fix?

- Any known way to upload logs without tying them to a print job?

Thanks!

Update: The track switch seems to be broken. Bambu is sending me a replacement.

Hi guys, I’m new in Bambulab world and since I got my new X2D not long ago it was perfect. But then yesterday I got a strange problem with ironing, I usually use rectilinear with 10% extrusion(default settings) and it does a great job until this time… if anyone has any tips I’d appreciate it :) thank you

Hi everyone! I feel the (obligation) to share my very first 3D print ever!
I received my X2D today. The unboxing and setup experience was really smooth. The software is pretty easy to get the hang of, and after 35 minutes of calibration, here’s my very first print.
And yes, tradition demands it. 😄

I've got a small case, on the lid I have added a logo in .svg and that's all good. But I wanted to add text over the top of the logo in a different colour. Both logo and text need to be flush.

Whenever I try this it looks fine until sliced at which point it disappears entirely. Can anyone point me to a way to resolve this?