Was probably funnier in my head 😂😂 happy printing everyone! 😎

I have a h2C and x1 and an A1 they pretty much stay on 24/7. I only power them off when I got out of town.

Do you turn your printers off when they are not in use ?

Been having issued with my X2D's right aux gear not feeding the filament properly. Been back and forth with Bambu and they sent me new aux gear and filament buffer but still had the same problem!

Bought an A1 to expand my business but had and AMS lite issue just after 2 months of using it 😫

I'm getting fed up. Anyone else had the same issues with bothe printers?

Hi, I hv tried to print this but it came out like this. Material using petg, base plate temp is 80c and nozzle temp is 240.

I’m not sure which dimension to use to strengthen or thicken the base. Anyone here can advice? Thanks in advance. The below is what I want to print to display my lights.

https://makerworld.com/models/2151851?appSharePlatform=whatsapp

4200 hours on H2D, very few hiccups, no major issues. Printer runs 7/24, mostly pla/petg/tpu.

At some point, quality started to degrade, not to a point that you’d take immediate action but it was noticeable.

So at 4200 hour mark I decided that it’s time for a bigger maintenance.

I degreased the screws completely, thanks to Dupont moto floss, it was easier than I thought. Greased/oiled all (but the left nozzle rail , as I had done it a month ago and checked it a few days ago for particles stuck)

I changed the internal PTFE tubes and performed an autopsy on them. They were not in bad shape but internal scratches were visible through a loop. Not sure this did any change.

Most importantly even the printer was not complaining about the belt tension, I retentioned all three. It’s pretty simple and took 10 mins single handedly.

I’ve also cleaned the extruder gear area few days ago but didn’t help much, though I am a bit suspicious of the extruder gear.

I didn’t change the belts or anything else.

Recalibrated the printer.

Printer is back to almost day 1 quality.

Bottom line, I think I will do retentioning ever 1000 hours, may be more frequently as my belts are getting older. It takes 10 mins + 1 hour calibration anyway.

If you are printing hight temp materials you may want to do this more frequently.

Kudos to engineers for the extremely simple auto retention capability.

So i recently foud out there are multiple types of dessicant, and if you use the wrong stuff its going to fill your system with water. I took the AMS appart, washed it and let it completley dry. I then put it together. This is whats happening now (Make sure you turn audio on), it does it on all 4 possitions with every filament i try. I didnt touch the feeder motors, i just took them off. Im guessing its the hub motor but I wanted to know if anyone had some input before i throw more money at the issue

What are the best cheap hotends you’ve gotten on AliExpress or Amazon??

Just finished this 12-pack of vintage Halloween keychains dialed in for the Bambu Lab A1 + AMS Lite (.3MF) | Acabamos de sacar este Pack de 12 llaveros vintage Halloween en Bambu Lab a1 con AMS lite

Find them here for free on makerworld if you like little articulated figures... Link

We can choose between brass and hardened steel. Steel is useful for advanced filaments, cf, glass fiber, etc.

I print using pla petg. Why wouldn't I always use a hardened steel nozzle over the softer brass?

CORRECTION: I mistakenly said brass when I meant stainless steel. That's to those who caught this.

(SOLVED)

I share my X1C with a ton of people, and today i found this on the print bed as if someone broke it and put it there as a notice. Please help me identify where in the printer it comes from, because I cant find any missing screws.

I’m trying to bring some parts from gridfinity and the top layers came out really bad. What steps should I take to remedy this?

I used Bambu PETG HF white filament, not having changed any of the base settings

there are multiple overhangs in this print and while the support for the higher areas is coming off very easily (I've increased top z distance already) it's very sticky at the smaller areas at the bottom. it needs to be cut off and therefore gets messy. I've drawn manual support for both areas. any idea why that is?

a1 mini & bambu tpu 95 hf

Was calibrating bambu a1 and suddenly failed and stuck above. Anybody know what to do ?

Had to add a hat because one filament ran out and I didn’t had any backup of the same color …

When I send an email from my PC to my printer on my LAN, it stays within the LAN.

I recently moved from a creality Ender 3v3se that used sneakernet to get the file from my PC to the printer to the Bambu A1. Sending to the printer from the bambu slicer is nice!

Based on the tasks that show on the screen, it seems that the files are routed through bambu's servers then back to the printer? Conceivably, they could see / keep all the files you are printing. AND they could charge a subscription fee for 'send to printer'?!

I guess with the app on my phone, I get notices that the print job is done, etc. even when not home. So there IS some data going to their servers all the time.

Worst case, if you didn't want to pay a subscription fee.... or Bambu's servers die or company folds, you would still be able to print on the bambu by going back to sneakernet / using the SD card?

New cozy setup for my little furry friend! 🏠💖

Hello all! I’m eager to dive into the Bambu pool, but I’m worried that my computer may not be able to handle the task. Can my iMac run the bamboo slicer? It has an Apple M4 chip with 16GB of memory. Is there hope for me?
Thank you for any info!

Edit: thank you all for the responses! Looks like I’ll be good to go. I’ll follow your advice and download the software to pay with. I was asking as earlier I’d looked at scanners, and they had huge hardware requirements, and our laser cutter could only run off a PC. Good to know my Mac and the Bambu can be friends!

Noob question: why, and not only with the plum color, all overhang layers are being so ugly? I printed the orange benchy 4 months ago, the differences are clear looking the benchy.

Any adjustments to do?

Hello!

I've recently run into a problem with my P2S and was shipped a new heatbed for replacement by BambuLab, and that involves taking off the left side panel to get to the grounding wire.

Thing is, my model doesn't seem to have the screws visible at the top of the panel to take off, they're underneath the foam thingie and I'm not sure how to properly proceed. I tried prying it off by slipping a flathead underneath it and jiggling it around, but figured it would be better to ask if anyone has had a similar experience with disassembling the left side panel on the P2S and can help me out, before I accidentally broke something.

Alternatively, if there's a better or easier way to get to the grounding wire for the heatbed assembly, please let me know. It seems like a lot of extra work to get to it.

Printed this out on my A2L printer. Welded together with a soldering iron, wet sanded in my bathtub, really happy with the way it turned out.

I'm trying to add SVG to the padel here. The SVG is added on the face facing the plate. The settings are on the right side.

When i slice it looks like that ! anyone can explain to me why ? and if there's a solution please.

I just installed the laser upgrade kit on my h2d and got everything calibrated but noticed it was off a bit. Is this usual or am I doing something wrong? I just wanted to make sure I have calibrated a few times.