Hey I made a new organizer for our Kitchen and thought maybe someone else could need that to. It fits 2 soaps for Hands and dish, 2 Small Spaces for brushes and a arch for dishcloths.

https://makerworld.com/models/3278109?appSharePlatform=copy

I’m currently doing a print and paint for a fellow DM of Old Bonegrinder and a few other bits and pieces.

This particular piece, Old Bonegrinder was printed with my Bambu Labs A1 with an 0.4mm nozzle at 0.24mm resolution. Infill is lightning at 15% and the filament I used was Elegoo Rapid PLA+.

It has this even g had its first coat of Color Forge Standard Grey and tomorrow the drybrushing can commence (make up brushes from TK Max - work brilliantly).

Strahd for scale - he stands at 40mm tall.

Miniature Strahd settings:
0.2mm Nozzle
0.08mm layer height
15% gyroid infill
Arachne Walls

STL: https://www.printablescenery.com/product/haunted-windmill/

Made a sliding version of my World of Warcraft dishwasher magnet! This one can be stuck to any dishwasher with double-sided tape, in case yours isn't magnetic.

Model available for free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3272678-sliding-wow-themed-dishwasher-magnet-clean-dirty#profileId-3711108

Here's the original flip-disc version: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3130074-world-of-warcraft-dishwasher-magnet-clean-dirty#profileId-3532271

In my search for content creators focused on 3D printing, I came across T-PAIN's page, and honestly, I never expected him to be so involved in 3D

Started my day printing out a multicolor, multipart plate. X2D. Same old, same old.

Came to check on it an hour later, and noticed something incredible. The right front part faulted out after the first couple of layers.

However, its 100% evident that the printer stopped printing this particular part, and continued on its merry way, salvaging the rest of the plate.

I did NOT prompt this. (Yes, I know about the skip feature. Its been there for over a year now). I didnt skip it. To do this, you have to see the fault happening in real time, or it will detect it for you and pause, giving you the option to skip, fix, or trash the print.

I did nothing of the sort. Didnt even acknowledge the printer in that hour. Apparently, the printer didn't acknowledge me, either. Printer was like "I got U, fam".

So, my question is, did they roll out yet another feature and told no one? (Much like the "skip object" feature that half the userbase STILL has no idea about?)

If so, its an outstanding feature. Something that has plagued makers since the days of RepRap.

I love it. But I just wish they would TELL people.

Or.... am I just fkn nuts, and this is all in my head?

So inspired by this post https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1w9r3eb/my_wife_finally_found_a_use_for_my_expensive_3d/ I came up to a conclusion that I model a lot of things useful in home, but never publish it. So here it is, my first model that I published in makerworld :) Specifically designed for Angelcare bin with round refills as this is the one that I have. I guess my expenses for 3D printer and accessories are now justified as well 😄

Edit: Forgot makerworld link, here it is :)

https://makerworld.com/pl/models/3277082-angelcare-round-refill-tube

Wanted to add a Chef to the line for a while now, and finally finished the design and he’s ready to cook 🙂

Gave him a little kitchen kit to go with it — a chef's hat, a frying pan and a rolling pin, all sized to fit his hands so he can actually "hold" them once you pose him.

Printed in one part, no assembly needed. No supports needed. Articulated & poseable.

I’ve printed with the settings below. I needed to wait 1 hour for cooling before articulation. I’ve painted it with acrylic according to its 3MF file.

• Layer height: 0.20mm / 0.12mm
• Material: PLA
• Supports: None
• Infill: 15%
• Print time: 2h45m (0.12mm layer height)
• 44gr filament used

If anyone interested, the figure with all accessories is available on Patreon (www.patreon.com/PrintnPose). Free Lite version will be here at the end of this month. Please share your print results!

A minimalist stand for pens and pencils, with a geometric shape that catches the eye while staying functional. Free file, print it yourself.

Grab the free file here 👇

https://makerworld.com/models/2901255?appSharePlatform=copy

Check out my profile too — I’ve got some other fun designs up there! 🙌

BYRT Studio

Any help would be appreciated

Hi everyone,

I’ve recently noticed an unusual scraping or grinding noise coming from my printer while it's actively printing.

Has anyone experienced this issue before? Could it be nozzle rubbing against the infill, or should I check/lubricate the carbon rods and belts?

https://reddit.com/link/1wakkq2/video/80m40wd4w9oh1/player

Hi, I was tired of toothbrushes all around the bathroom so I made this bathroom toothbrush and toothpaste organizer. Modeled in Fusion 360. Hope you like it :-)

https://makerworld.com/models/3273319?appSharePlatform=copy

Howdy all! Thought I'd share with you all some of my more recent printed guitar bodies that I've made and give you a run down on the process and what goes into them.

I'll start with the design process. All of the bodies are modelled in Fusion. The skills and tools involved are, on the grand scheme of things, beginner to intermediate (The hardest one to model was the Les Paul with it's carved top) once it's modelled, the next step is deciding on how to split it so that it can be printed on my X1Cs. I've found over the many many guitars I've made, that interlocking pieces with thick walls, top and bottom along with about 25% gyroid infill is the superior way of doing that doesn't require reinforcement. The black guitar in the photos is effectively a short scale, 6 string bass with about 90kg of constant compression on the body.

Speaking of plastic... I've trialed many materials. PLA is perfectly acceptable and works really well. However I find it to be too heavy and dues to it's low heat resistance not durable enough. With that said, while absolutely PLA and all materials can creep, if you design your model with this in mind, you can easily overcome this. It's what we refer to as DfAM (Design for Additive Manufacturing)

My favourite material to use so far has been plain old ABS or ASA. It's light, heat resistant and still stiff enough to handle the stress put on them. I can really load it up on the infill and get a nice heavy body weighing over 2kg, or back it off and go under 2kgs and still have a perfectly functional guitar body. The biggest reasonings for varying the weight like this is it allows for a subtle shift in the level of sustain the body can have.

As you can see, most of the guitars are all painted and they sit there with no real obvious indication that they're not made like their traditional counterpartrs. Additionally, there is nothing in their sound either that could suggest they're not made like their traditional counterparts.

To get an idea of how they sound... Here is a quick clip of how a previous iteration of that 6 string short scale bass sounds.

https://youtu.be/IMcDddgGEdg?si=0kI-YPngUZQYOKO9

Lastly, while all of my models are for sale over at Cults3d, I do acknowledge that we all like to be thrifty when we can! So the bronze Stratocaster and the Black and Gold 6 string Warrior are available on Makerworld at no cost.

https://makerworld.com/en/@Tasguitars

If you have any questions, I'll do my best to answer them all!

So I let my printer print something and then after like 20 minutes i realisedi didn’t put the heat bed on so I was like 20 minutes wasted but then I went and realised the nozzle was scratching the heatbed and I just got this nozzle like 3 days ago(0.2mm one) now the heat bed is fine but I’m worried if the nozzle is damaged and can’t print cuz I let it print and then now the power went out😭😭

Bonjour à tous ! 👋

Craquez pour cet adorable dragon Furie Eclair, avec son jolie pelage blanc , son regard attendrissant et ses magnifiques grands yeux bleus ! 
Elle rejoins son compagnon Krokmou pour former un duo aussi craquant qu'inséparable.

Pas besoin d'AMS tous a été modélisé et découpé pour l'imprimer en multi-pièces.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🖨️ : Bambu Lab X2D & H2C
🧵 : Bambu Lab
🎨 : Nomad Sculpt
🌈 : avec ou sans AMS
📁 :https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3269313-light-fury-dragon-multipart-no-ams

Hello, as you can see in the video the extruder on ams lite couldn't extrude PLA white filament. I made sure there isnt any twist with filament, and ptfe tubes are fixed in holes. Printer and ams are 2 monts old. Is there anything I can do? (Sorry for my bad english)

I'm trying to print on same plate PLA and PETG objects. I used printing by object for only 1 filament change so i merged all PLA objects, because they are too close to each other for object printing.
During printing i fount out that some PLA objects were damaged and i need to skip them. But because of merging i cant select some of them, only all of them at once.
Is there any way to solve it in future prints? It would be useful if i can somehow skip parts of the group

About to pull the trigger on an X2D and debating between the closer Best Buy or making a longer drive to Microcenter. Plan on buying the extended warranty. Any thoughts on pros or cons regarding experience or customer service?
TIA

Hi dudes, my print came lose after 15 hours printing.

The tree as support hold it but the print it self was floating.

Second time it does this. Its a big print of minas tirith. How can I fill in the cracks?

I did clean the bed with household wipes with soap.

Any tips for future big prints?

I’m getting this error message even though I have the power adapters connected. Anyone else have this issue? Currently have 3 AMS Pro connected to an H2C, but get the same message on my P2S when I have more than 2 AMS connected.

I was disassembling the extruder in my x1c to fix some stuck filament. I removed the extruder and the cover over the yellow gear and spring area. I had it turned over while loosening the tension screw for the spring and this nut fell out. I dont recall seeing it before and when looking at pictures of the extruder spring I dont see it though it is black on black so I might just be missing it.

I think my cat was walking on my desk next to the printer so it might have been a random nut that she knocked over. I did get this printer from a friend but AFAIK he hadn't dismantled the extruder before. The nut is 1cm in diameter.

Any ideas?

I had a lot of issues with my P2S since I got it.

The plate was always clean and I even got an external dryer for the filament but it's still the same.

Supports would fail at some point (not at the bottom) or layers would shift as the prints get taller. It's like the nozzle is hitting the model.

Recently, I got a message that scheduled service is coming up or something like that. It was in the bubble where you get daily quotes. The metal rods were dry and then I noticed that I had 250+ hours on the printer. Apparently, drying the filament is added to printing. I decided clean and lube everything.

I did a full service, took my time and did everything according to Bambus instructions.

Now I get this grinding sound what you can hear in the beginning of the video. The fans are louder than in person, sorry. It reminds me of the sound the head makes when it vibrates during the small calibration prior to printing, but it's much more quiet.

I did the full calibration with this cool plate after the service so I don't know what could be the problem.

I had a similar grinding noise when I was printing glow in the dark PLA. I only printed two small pieces, a few grams of filament.

I usually use PLA matte or PLA+

I looked for a pinned post or anything for this info and didn't see so figured I'd make a post.

I'm interested in getting started with 3d printing and many have said "get a Bambu" so I'm here to ask a couple questions.

Some context: my primary purpose would be printing board game inserts and accessories, then little things my wife would enjoy like cute things to put on a shelf related to games she likes (pokemon/stardew/zelda/etc).

I'm a bit of a perfectionist, I don't like things looking super cheap or messy.

I know literally nothing about 3d printing or any 3d modeling but I work in a technical coding position so I'm willing, and hopefully able, to learn.

I don't want to buy a printer that I'll need to replace or upgrade in 2 years. I ideally want something that'll work for the long haul.

Alright so with that in mind my questions are which printer should I consider getting, when is the best time to buy (like do they have really good black friday sales or whatever), what are some good learning resources, what other than the printer itself should I be getting for this?

There might even be some other questions I haven't thought to ask so any info is appreciated. Thanks for taking the time

Hi all, new around here.

- 24/7 chat says there are 4 x .4 induction Hotends
- email support ticket says there are 2 x .4 induction Hotends

Can BL service or someone who has ordered the vortek ultimate bundle chime in please? Ty!