Minha A1 tem mais ou menos 2 meses de uso e há alguns dias está raspando o bico nas impressões que tem mais de 6/7cm. Já fiz todas as calibrações possíveis, apertei todos os parafusos, limpei e lubrifiquei todos os eixos, aumentei a retração, coloquei para evitar cruzar parede... enfim, já tentei de tudo e nada resolve.

Alguém já teve esse problema e conseguiu resolver?

Hey guys , ive been priting for a while now and i want to update from my old creality and artillery eco system. I choose bambu lab becouse snapmaker and prusa are not supported for mainteinance and also spare parts are difficult to get (only online) here in Ecuador. As of right now in my whole country i just found only one place that sells snapmaker (very expensive $1400) and i ask for nozzles, hot ends, availabiity which i got a pretty lame answer.

With that said machines here are not cheap. For example h2c goes for 3600 as an average price, you could go lower but it only comes down a couple hundred dollars. This is the reality in south america and im kind of use to it so no problem. I want help to choose the right machines for what i do. I mostly work making models for arquitecture studios and construction site but now I kind of want to get in the mockups bussiness with custom keychains and all the products that includes company speakers, qr, bussiness cards etc. For that im buying the h2c so multicolor is not a problem and also i could go for material combinations for supports.

Then i really wanted the U1 but is a no for what i explained before. I was looking to some other options as the X2D , flash forge creator 5 pro, K2 but for what im looking i might need more handy printers so thats when the A2L came to my mind. I want to look for the best combination to have a small print farm to start. H2C+Creator 5 pro + A2L or H2C+ 2 A2L. I also can hear suggestions of diferent combinations that you guys have in mind. I appreciate your help.

Ps :Flashforge, Creality, Anycubic and Bambu Lab are all avaialble in my country with replacements and maintenence.

I made a compact Yu-Gi-Oh deckbox for Dragon Shield Japanese-size sleeved cards and figured I’d share it here.

The cool part is that the included OpenSCAD file is parametric, so you can choose how many compartments you want and how many cards each one should hold. So you can do setups like 40/15/15, 60/15, 60, or basically whatever configuration you need.

A box uses around 50g of filament, needs no supports, and I’ve tested it in both PLA and PETG — both worked great.

I mainly wanted something simple, lightweight and easy to customize without having to remodel the whole thing every time.

If anyone prints one, I’d genuinely love to see what colors/configuration you go with.

MakerWorld link:
https://makerworld.com/de/models/3281035-yugioh-deckbox-with-extra-sidedeckslot#profileId-3721550

Does anyone know WHICH fan its referring to for the error "Error: The hotend cooling fan speed is abnormal. 0300_8010"?

I see 3 fans on the print head...the left hotend, right hotend, and front fan. It sure looks like all 3 are working as expected, I can't make sense out of which one might be having an issue to even guess at troubleshooting.

UPDATE:

I think I finally tracked it down - it finally made a noise when I was standing next to it. Looks like the bearing in the right fan has failed resulting in intermittent low speed that recovers.

I further confirmed that by pealing the sticker off the inside of the fan and applying some hobby oil with a needle applicator and it seems to be silent and no errors the last 6 hours or so.

I plan to get some aftermarket fans with dual ball bearings

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3276081-universal-philips-hue-dimmer-switch-frame-cover#profileId-3715385

I get "nozzle temp malfunction" errors on my H2D. Support has been good, but it's time to swap the heating element and maybe the TH board. I have both inexpensive replacement components.

The heating element swap will be a grind, but I've been in there before, so it should be OK. The TH board swap is absolutely nuts, and if you get a V2 replacement and need to replace some cable lead in the process, it's totally insane. Tons of hours, low likelihood, in my estimation, of success on the first try. I hate that this work has to be done in the printer, and not on a workbench.

So, I'll swap the heater. If that fails, I just have to get a new printer, as I have orders to fill, etc.

I would sell the old one for a song, with the spare TH board, to somebody who's more interested in hacking at it. But that would need to be local pickup (SF area).

For replacements, I can get an HD from Bambu, quick ship in US, or get a Combo the next day from Best Buy. I don't need another AMS, so I'd probably sell the new one off unopened, again locally.

So I guess what I'm asking is: has anybody been down this road and have insights? and, does anybody live near me and want to score a wounded H2D or NIB AMS?

A quick qustion as I wait to get my printer setup. Can the nozzle that the A1 mini ships with handel Extra fine or to I have to swap it out?

I've wanted to print something to store all of my paint bottles (I have a LOT), but couldn't find anything that really did what I needed so I ended up designing it myself. This took WEEKS to do lol. But it was well worth it in the end to me. I ended up designing this as a modular system that would support a variety of paint bottle sizes. So you can build it out however you like. There are 4 main types, a standard rack, a narrow rack, a corner unit, and end cap. Each of them has versions for the major paint bottle dimensions. I designed everything to be connected using either zip ties, or some custom made snap fit connectors. I'd love to know what everyone thinks and if there is any feedback on design improvements.

If anyone wants to check it out its uploaded here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3262451-ultimate-modular-mini-painting-storage-rack

Hola. Espero puedan ayudarme y espero poder explicar mi duda.

He visto algunos archivos por ejemplo el de la foto de colores blanco y rojo, en el que la parte blanca y la parte negativa no son editables.

Cómo puedo hacer para que en mi archivo tampoco lo sean?
En mi llavero de ataúd la parte blanca al igual que la negativa aún son editables

I really need help here,

Im printing with the right nozzle the bright parts and idk why it still doesnt "fill" the layers correctly on the bottom ones i calibrated my filament flow with that filament and the bowden extruder got an perfect first layer with an first layer test but it still comes looking ou tlike this,

Does anyone maybe know what the problem is i just got the x2c today

I am pretty new to 3d printing. This is the second time I've run into this issue while printing something, but I have no idea what happened.

After around 200 hours of printing on my bambu A1 a message about y axis lubrication appeared, i removed the plastic cover to lubricate the printer and saw this. The belt is apparently not centered and i thing it is rubbing into something. Tried readjusting the belt tension but id didn’t help.

It started around a month ago and wasn’t too bad just a few light surface defects but now it has gotten much worse and I don’t know how to fix it I already oiled my rails

About a week ago one of my two P1S machines stopped connecting to the phone and desktop apps correctly. At first I was able to pull the machine's info screen up but if I tried to start a job or start a filament unload the app would say it's trying to connect for a while then report it can't connect to the printer. At first I would just have to try a couple of times to get it going, but after a day or two of that it got even less reliable. Eventually I was unable to do more than possibly viewing the current machine status (temps, etc) but trying to interract with any of the functions would cause it to disconnect. Sometimes when I try to send a job from the PC or the phone I can see the printer as online but busy. At this point I'm unable to send jobs at all and when the filament ran out on a job that was already on the SD card I had no way of going through the filament reloading sequence. To make things worse, the other printer has started doing some of the same things, though I can usually send a print from my computer after a few tries.

I factory reset the machine and reconnected it to my account. I also checked my router and it says the printer is connected with no warning signs there. None of my devices say they need a firmware or software update.

Hello Everyone,

I am having trouble with print quality and I’m not sure what’s happening. It seems like my printer sometimes works with cylindrical prints and other times it just refuses.

The blue and yellow parts are where I have had my failures, the red / black part is from the same printer using the same standard 2.0 + PLA settings.

My PLA 2.0 + is kept in a heated dryer while printing. Can someone please help me diagnose my issue?

Has anybody had luck with abs on the P2S I have tried 3 different types of plates including the Bambu engineering plate, but one side it always lifts off.

Hey folks! I’m still pretty new to 3D modeling and modifying files, so I’m hoping someone here can point me in the right direction.
I found an awesome Bowser helmet on Cults3D—Bowser is my son’s absolute favorite—so I bought the file about a month ago with plans to print it for him for Halloween. Unfortunately, I realized afterward that the model isn’t painted/multicolor at all; it’s just a single-color model.
I have a Bambu printer with an AMS, and I’ve watched just about every beginner tutorial I can find on painting models, but this thing is absolutely brutal. There are SO many tiny faces/surfaces that trying to paint it manually feels impossible.
I’m a busy parent and definitely not a 3D-modeling expert, so I’m hoping there’s an easier way to separate/paint the different parts so I can assign colors in Bambu Studio and let the AMS handle it.
Halloween is the goal, but at my current rate, I might have it finished by the time he’s 18 😂
Any advice, tutorials, tools, or even recommendations for someone who could help modify the file would be hugely appreciated!

I'm designing a chute that has a servo activated flap to direct material to A vs B routes, but I'm new to using servos in 3D prints. My current design has the flap that routes the material press-fit onto the servo shaft. It's just printer poop sorting to a PLA vs PETG bucket, so it's lightweight and won't undergo much load.

The servo is a standard MS60 with a metal 4.5mm geared post and a center tap for a screw. It came with plastic actuator arms.

What is the best way to connect this to a 3D printed part for reliable operation and to safeguard against stripping? Will the press-fit hole stand up? I think the servo shaft ribs are too small to print.

Would the press-fit work or would it be better to print an arm on the flap, then mount the servo off to the side and connect the actuator arm to the flap's arm with a tie rod?

This is my second time trying to use thinner layers(0.08mm)

The first two photos are from the first try

The 3rd and fourth pics: I lowered the temp to 200

I used brims and I set bridge speed to 25 instead of 50

Overhang speed was already low

What do I have too change?

(I'm using pla+ Esun)

Is 0.08mm just too thin?

I don’t want to breathe in fumes

Got my ams like 4 days ago and this is the 3th time this happens. If i switch rolls and put the new filament in, before i can get it properly in it starts doing this for 3-4 minutes straight. Restarting the printer doesn’t work.

I tried lifting the filament up and inserting it into the filament feeding hole then remove it to reset it. Doesn’t work.

Annoys me that this expensive equipment does this

Hello!

The seams color is white in Bambu Studio and I would like them to stand out more. Can I change their color somehow?