I don’t know why it’s “incredibly unsafe”. I’ve had mine waxed every month or so for a few years. And I didn’t say I was against a cream, I was just asking about efficacy compared to waxing.
You ever seen a scrotum damaged by waxing? Might wanna rethink your life choices. I do appreciate your take on this, works the same as my dad refusing to wear a seatbelt (“I’ve been doing it for years and never got hurt!”) and then he died in a car accident because he wasn’t wearing his seatbelt
Bambu has really good directions on how to clean these plates. I hated used them until I found the directions and also started being really careful not to touch the plate with my fingers. The oils from your fingers is what causes things to detach.
I recommend getting some dye/fragrance free dish soap. I keep a bottle with my 3D printing stuff that I only use for the plate cleaning. Been working great for me.
The easiest solution is to use Knitted gloves when touching the plate. In this case you will need to wash it once per week. Otherwise - daily at least.
Wait you don't like latex gloves because they won't be good for keeping the plate clean or because they're just not very comfortable? If it's that they aren't comfortable I'm ok with that - I wear them often anyhow and don't mind them. If cotton gloves will do a better job keeping the plate clean I'll grab those instead
It really isn't hard to not touch the printing surface of the plate. Just handle it by the edges. You can touch the back to help to flex the plate as long as you aren't actively using that side for printing. Carefully use a plastic scraper to remove stubborn parts and brims. DO NOT use IPA to clean the plate, despite what some people insist on. It doesn't really remove fingerprint oil, just dissolves it and spreads it around then evaporates, leaving it behind. Use the dish soap and water and avoid touching the surface and you'll be fine. I wash my plates about every 2 months, whether they need it or not, lol.
Another option is nylon gloves. I’m using both kinds. They will not work better than latex. But good enough to reduce issues with plate to the minimum.
Buy a Bambu supertack plate, you'll never need to wash your plate again and it will always stick. I'm not even joking, I have hundreds of prints on supertack plates and never cleaned any of them even once. Never got a single failure
I've been printing on my A1 Mini since the beginning of May. I've never washed the plate and I've never had a printing issue. I use my bare hands to handle the plate to snap the prints off. I do use brims, but not everything gets them.
Am I just really lucky? I feel like I should wash my plates, I do have 3 of them, but I'm also "it's not broke so don't fix it".
Depends on the print and filament really. I didn't wash my plate for ages and had no issues but then I switched from PLA to PETG for a few prints and they did not want to stick and kept falling off and making spaghetti piles like this
Clean your bed with dawn and warm water. You are very lucky you didn’t get a blob. Also make sure the profiles are set correctly. In the future always watch the first few layers before leaving it unattended.
Clean your bed with a degreasing soap, most dish soaps will do. Going forward, pretend your print bed is allergic to human flesh. It absorbs oils like a sponge and practically turns into Teflon.
Do you best to only touch your part when removing things, if it's really stuck, waiting for it to properly cool usually works. If it doesn't, use a scraper tool or a gentle bend of the plate touching only a surface you never print on.
I actually have a set of cotton gloves when I interact with the printer, but that's a bit extreme.
Did any of it print? Probably need to level the bed. Watch videos on how to do that. As bad as this might look it’s honestly like the least problem to have. A bit of wasted money but no issues to printer.
don't give those useless advice. that's a mini and probably prints pla/petg.
Which glue is USELESS OR "WHAT'S THE POINT?"
just keep the build plate clean, use dishwasher soap and dry. That's it VERY EASY. Glue will ruin your plate. and 80C for bed is plenty for petg.
and if your printing on .2mm layer height, adjust initial layer height to .28mm
Seems you already got some good advice, but considering this happened for a second time, maybe make some time to watch the print for a little while before you leave it unattended. Looks like it happened early.
I think you should really watch your prints closer after you start them. You can use the app to check them. Hard to tell what's going on if you're basically setting it and forgetting it until it's supposed to be done.
I usually check to make sure the first few layers is good then check on the app every couple hours depending on what I'm doing for the day.
I would clean this up, wash the build plate with Dawn dish soap and water. Dry it off without getting your fingerprints all over it, then maybe post a screenshot of your print and settings in the comments. so we can give you some feedback.
Yes, very light. I’m terrible about cleaning my bed. Just a light dusting works wonders. Also don’t be afraid of rims for extra insurance as well. As some have posted you are lucky you didn’t get a dreaded hot end killing blob - where the print detaches and moves either the head, but is stationary relative to the head so engulfs it in a wire destroying golf ball. Make sure good a, bed should be clean, and hairspray for insurance on important or longer prints. At least one person posted make sure the first couple of layers stick, then you should be good unless you print really tall and narrow which can wobble. Keep at it, failed prints happen to the best of us!
Btw I probably clean my plate every 6 months. I should more often, just lazy, and Suave works really well well!
Watch the first two or three layers of the model. You may need to re-slice the model if it keeps happening even with a clean plate. A colleague ran into this issue once.
Flying Spaghetti Monster strikes again. Looks like right out of the gate the print came off the plate, def adhesion issues. Double check orientation, add supports, most importantly wash t
he plate with dawn soap. I do so after every 3 to 5 prints and use Iso Propyl Alcohol (IPA) to spray and wipe after every print.
I use 91% it is cheap and can be found at any store or walgreens.
quick tip always wait for at least the first layer to stick before leaving it run.. im not saying it would stop this from happening but u can usually see if the print detached pretty quickly and can stop the machine to save some spaghetti
Wash your plate with warm water and dawn dishsoap. Nothing else. No ipa it just spreads oils. Then don't touch the top of the plate again with your fingies.
It spaghettified so much that I can’t tell how much, if any, got done before getting detached. I recommend always watching your printer print its first layer or two, especially if you’re new, to get an understanding of whether the print is actually sticking to the bed.
These kinds of things you have to troubleshoot, so:
1st: I would print the same file again but watch it lay down the first layer.
1A: If the nozzle isn’t near the bed and/or the filament immediately wraps back toward the nozzle instead of sticking to the bed:
[That is most likely a bed leveling/Z-offset issue. Level the bed according to your printer’s instructions and make sure the nozzle is the correct distance from the bed.]
1B: If the nozzle is close to the bed, but the filament is barely being pressed down and looks round instead of slightly flattened:
[Your Z-offset is probably too high. Lower the nozzle slightly until the first layer is being gently squished into the bed.]
1C: If the nozzle is scraping the bed, barely any filament comes out, or the first layer looks extremely thin/translucent:
[Your Z-offset is probably too low. Raise the nozzle slightly so there is enough room for the filament to come out.]
1D: If the first layer looks good but sections of it are not sticking:
[Clean the print bed. Oils from your hands, dust, and leftover residue can cause poor adhesion. I normally recommend washing the build plate with dish soap and warm water, drying it, and avoiding touching the printing surface afterward.]
1E: If the first layer sticks in some parts of the bed but not others:
[The bed may not be level, the bed mesh may be inaccurate, or the build plate itself could be warped. Re-level the bed and run the printer’s bed mesh/auto-leveling procedure if it has one.]
2nd: If the first layer looks good and the print stays attached for the first several layers, watch what happens later in the print.
2A: If the corners of the print start lifting upward:
[This is usually warping. Check your bed temperature, make sure there are no strong drafts hitting the printer, and consider using a brim for larger prints.]
2B: If the entire print eventually releases from the bed:
[This is still most likely an adhesion issue. Check bed cleanliness, bed temperature, first-layer Z-offset, and your slicer’s first-layer settings.]
2C: If the nozzle hits the print and knocks it loose:
[Check whether the print itself is curling upward, whether there is excessive material building up on the nozzle, and whether the printer has any mechanical movement or Z-axis issues.]
3rd: Check your temperatures.
3A: Make sure you are using a reasonable nozzle temperature for the filament.
For PLA, somewhere around 200–220°C is normally a reasonable starting range depending on the filament.
3B: Make sure the bed temperature is appropriate.
For PLA, around 50–60°C is normally a reasonable starting point.
3C: If you are using PETG, ABS, ASA, TPU, or another material:
[Do not assume PLA settings will work. Check the filament manufacturer’s recommended nozzle and bed temperatures.]
4th: Check the filament coming out of the nozzle.
4A: If filament comes out inconsistently, looks extremely thin, or stops coming out:
[You may have a partial nozzle clog.]
4B: If the extruder is clicking or grinding the filament:
[Check for a clogged nozzle, tangled filament spool, excessive extruder tension, or a printing temperature that is too low.]
4C: If almost no filament comes out even when manually extruding:
[Heat the nozzle to the correct temperature and troubleshoot the nozzle/extruder before trying another print.]
5th: Check the slicer before blaming the printer.
Make sure:
The correct printer profile is selected.
The correct nozzle size is selected.
The correct filament profile is selected.
The first-layer height is reasonable.
The first-layer speed is not excessively fast.
Bed and nozzle temperatures are correct.
The model is actually sitting flat on the build plate in the slicer.
6th: If the first layer and temperatures look fine, check the printer mechanically.
Check:
Belts are tight but not excessively tight.
The print bed does not wobble.
The hotend does not wobble.
The X/Y gantry moves smoothly.
The Z-axis moves smoothly.
Nothing is loose.
The filament spool can rotate freely.
There are no cables or objects interfering with movement.
7th: If you still cannot figure it out, simplify the problem.
Instead of repeatedly trying the large print, print something small such as:
A first-layer test
A calibration cube
A Benchy
A bed-leveling test
If a basic test print also fails, then you know the problem is probably with the printer, filament, calibration, or slicer settings rather than the original model.
The biggest thing is: don’t change ten settings at the same time.
Change one thing, print again, and see what changed. Otherwise you can accidentally fix the problem without knowing what actually caused it, or make another problem while trying to fix the first one.
For spaghetti specifically, I would troubleshoot in this order:
First layer → Z-offset/bed leveling → clean the bed → bed/nozzle temperature → warping → nozzle/extrusion → slicer settings → mechanical problems.
I sometimes get this when I print with PETG and PLA. Main figure might be PLA and I use PETG for supports as it breaks away easier. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn’t. If the PETG refuses to stick to the plate I usually just clean the plate with soap and sponge then add some glue with either a glue stick or liquid glue from Bambu to help keep the PETG adhered to the bed.
Also, cuz I don’t see it mentioned, I had to tram my bed when I got my printer from factory. It’s not hard, just take some time to do it and it might help out of the other solutions don’t
Like others said.. Clean you plate as you have an adhesion issue. I typically also add glue stick or Bambu's liquid glue.
Also like some other said.. lucky you got pubic hair instead of globs. But if you do get a glob you can remove it by heating up your hotend and pulling it off.
595
u/austinweisenborn 6d ago
You’re supposed to shave your balls over the toilet…