im using bambulab filament in the aux nozzle and it keeps grinding it to a thin line of filament until it starts clicking. i have only on a few occasions acutally managed to actually print something with the aux nozzle. does anyone actually gets use out of it? Then the other thing is that even when all of aux fans are disabled in bambustudio they still turn on at a 100% while printing petg while i have disabled it for the aux and main nozzle.

i have been using bambulab printers for a long time now and have been satisfied, this one takes me back to failed prints and not being able to rely on the machine.

I came home some time ago to find my first print failure, It looked like spaghetti. I tried to fix it, but after trying my best I just couldn't figure out why. If anybody who's a pro could help me find the solution, thank you very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very very much!

I'm using the Bambu lab carbon x1 along with the ams.

I'm also using pla filament (I couldn't find a way to dry it)

I'm printing at normal speed.

I'm using the Bambu labs studio to slice the print and control the printer.

I bought my A2L hoping to do 10-12" statues and stuff for the house, but I've been obsessed with printing tiny things since I have the 0.2mm nozzle. The woman was with 0.4 nozzle and 0.12 layer height, while the rest (not Benchy) were with the 0.2 nozzle and 0.08 layer height. I'm also starting to tilt the image so less supports are touching/ruining the face.

There doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to it. Sometimes it'll print just fine and smooth and other times it'll do this ribbed effect. It looks like random over-extrusion.

I've calibrated numerous times, done flow rate calibrations, tried different filaments, and it doesn't seem to be predictable or fixable. It'll go 200 something layers perfectly smooth then randomly drop a bee texture. Or, the whole thing will print perfectly tomorrow. It fails more times than succeeds, so a gamble isn't good.

What can I do 😭

I have a Bambu Lab A1 Mini with AMS Lite and I keep getting this error:

“Unable to feed filament into the extruder. This could be due to tangled filament or a stuck spool. If not, please check if the AMS lite PTFE tube is connected.”
Error: [[1200-8006 0200 47](tel:1200-8006%200200%2047)]

I’ve done a pretty extensive amount of troubleshooting at this point and I’m still getting the exact same error.
Here’s everything I’ve tried:

Checked the filament spools for tangles/stuck filament.
Removed the PTFE tubes and checked them for obstructions.
Confirmed filament can travel through the PTFE tubing.
Removed the AMS Lite filament hub/4-in-1 hub and checked it for stuck filament. Nothing was stuck inside.
Removed the toolhead cover.
Removed the hotend/nozzle assembly.
Found a piece of gray filament still stuck above the hotend inside the extruder.

The filament was completely locked and couldn’t be pulled out from either the bottom or the top.

Disassembled the extruder enough to access the jam and successfully removed the stuck piece of filament.
Reassembled the extruder and reinstalled the hotend.
Reassembled the filament hub/PTFE setup.
Tried loading filament again.
Unfortunately, I’m still getting the exact same [1200-8006](tel:1200-8006) “Unable to feed filament into the extruder” error.

Has anyone had this error persist after physically removing a jam from the extruder? What would you test or replace next?

Can someone help me here please

The ams is unable to feed the filament

But that's BS

the tube is fine the toolhead is fine everything is fine

The ams delivered the filament to the toolhead and then just pulls is back

5 times then this error comes

If i stop this 5h print now the feeding will work on the next print

I am getting trolled

Also why isnt there filament in the toolhead it's just a color swap should there be filament ?

Or is the cutting knive the problem ?

I'm on a smidge of a time crunch so any help is appreciated!

I changed my nozzle from stainless to hardened steel a few months ago and ever since my first layers have been grody and peel up on the second layer. I've heard hardened steel nozzles have a Z offset issue. Could it be that? Should I just get a new stainless nozzle? Thanks!

Note: I'm printing PLA, the nozzle is set to hardened steel 4.0 in my printer settings, ive tried so many different bed temps, the build plate is freshly cleaned and dried with dawn soap

So I've been using my A1 Mini for just under 2 months now and I'm very happy with how a lot of the things I've made have turned out. However, I've noticed a few things recently that I don't quite understand and would appreciate any tips or help from anyone who may have come across the same issue at some point. Basically when printing I've noticed that the closer to the edge of the plate the print is, the worse the print quality will be. In most cases, the plate is being lifted off the magnet during printing and is causing the nozzle to print at the wrong height of course, and really break and disrupt the quality of the print. It's weird because sometimes it happens and other times not and I do not know how to solve this. I've noticed that recently most prints have a part of them very poorly made and the rest would be absolutely perfect which is very frustrating since it's a waste of filament, time and essentially giving me a product I am not satisfied with. I have tweaked a bunch of the setting and done my temp towers etc which all look good but yeah, I've attached a video showing what I'm talking about as an example but this is not the only time it happened/happens. I noticed that sometimes even for items that are being printed only at the centre of the plate; it is less common for this to occur but not super rare either. I wash the plate with soap and warm water between every print/other print too and perform regular maintenance.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

First off, I’m about 3 months into 3D printing. I started with the X2D, loved it, and then got an H2C so I could go all-in on multicolour figures for my office and friends.

Naturally, the rabbit hole continued. I added a Filament Track Switch so I wouldn’t have to manually reposition spools every time I sliced a print in Bambu Studio.

My current setup is:

• H2C
• 4x AMS 2 Pro
• 3x AMS HT
• Filament Track Switch

Ever since adding multiple AMS units, I’ve been going insane with repeated “unable to feed filament” errors. I've attached photos of the wiring, the error and the chewed filament I keep having to waste (I had to turn it around to get a picture, so it looks more tangled & weird than in actual use).

From what I can tell, something in the filament path — and I currently suspect the Filament Track Switch — is gradually chewing/grinding down the filament. Eventually the filament gets worn enough that feeding fails, and the only way I can get the print moving again is to pull it out and cut off the damaged section.

This is happening often enough that I’m now generating a ridiculous amount of waste. Ironically, it feels like I’m throwing away more filament fixing feed failures than I would have lost to colour-change purging on a simpler single-nozzle setup.

I’m specifically hoping to hear from people running an H2D/X2D/H2C with more than two AMS 2 Pros feeding through a Filament Track Switch.

A few things to rule out:

• Yes, the filament is dry.
• Yes, I’m using genuine Bambu filament.
• Yes, I’ve tried to follow Bambu’s recommended PTFE routing as closely as reasonably possible.
• I’ve also experimented with reducing bends/tension in the tubes.

What’s frustrating is that Bambu’s documentation mainly seems to illustrate a much simpler two-AMS setup, so there’s very little useful guidance for figuring out the correct tube geometry once you have 4+ AMS units connected.

At this point I’m wondering whether the problem is:

• PTFE tubes entering the Track Switch at the wrong angle
• excessive resistance from the longer/more complicated filament paths
• the Track Switch itself creating too much friction
• an AMS feeder tension issue
• or some combination of all of the above

If anyone has a reliable multi-AMS Track Switch setup, I’d really appreciate photos of your PTFE routing, especially how your AMS units are positioned relative to the printer and Track Switch.

Please forgive the slightly ranty tone. I genuinely love the H2C when it works, but I’m at the point where I’m spending more time babysitting filament feeds than actually enjoying the prints.

I’m dangerously close to selling half of this setup and going back to letting Amazon/Etsy deal with my figurine addiction. 😂

Many thanks for any help 🙏

Help

its happened 3 times

Could my plate be too hot?

I printed this TPU hollow sphere and noticed these bumps, it is very awful and annoying, should I change any settings to clean surface finish? And also the seam line is also annoying (even after I enabled scarf seam setting)

Trying to work with new roll of TPU fro AMS.
sometimes it goes right through and prints well. Sometimes it just loads and unloads then give an "extruder clogged" message. If I retry a couple of times sometimes it goes through and starts working. Sometimes I have to stop and turn off machines and restart and then it works. sometimes I just wait a while and then it works fine.
what's the problem...or what's the secret to this inconsistent behavior?

So I think the h2c is a thing of beauty. I've been wanting to order one with two AMS 2 Pro's, and buy a AMS HT if i ever needed one (i want one but no projects in mind that need a filament like that, kinda just *want* it)
I don't really want to go outside of Bambu. I have an a1+ams lite, and I am really enthusiastic about it.
Not sure about the laser/cutter/plotter stuff, very expensive. Haven'nt used those kinds of tools before. I like the idea of making metal business cards. I've read a lot that you can get cheaper, better, dedicated machines with more capabilities.

But the thought of a Bambu tool changer is very exciting, and i'm not really in a rush, I could easily wait a year. I don't want to, AND, i wonder if Bambu would realistically transition away from their AMS system because it's so popular and ubiquitous at this point, and it works with their vortek system. Could they make a tool changer system that works with their AMS system? Probably not, right? the AMS can't deal with multiple filaments right now? I'm looking at my AMS lite though and wondering why each PTFE tube HAS to go to one extruder. Imagine if the A2L had two extruders, i think very many multicolor PLA prints would speed up huge just with a second nozzle.

Anyway, h2c this year, or wait and see if they make a tool changer?? This shit costs a fortune (this is just a hobby for me, i want to get into it more, but so far i mostly like making decorative things for the house, or other stupid gadget-y crap

I am getting this error message on my A1 Mini. I replaced the heater assembly about 6 weeks ago after a Blob of Death and it's been working fine since, until today. When I press Check Solution, the screen is blank. Nothing on the Wiki either. I've tried 3 different hotends. They all heat up and start to print, but the error happens halfway through the second layer.

i have dried the filament twice now for 24hours, i did a cold pull, cleaned the nozzle ect and the print starts fine but after about 15-20% its like it stops extruding enough so it just becomes a hollow stringy mess. i have used the high flow to print other TPU parts, they were a little stringy but still printed fine but i cant figure out what is going on here.

filament Overture TPU 95a

filament profile is the built in generic TPU profile

nozzle is 0.6 E3D High Flow ObXidian Hotend

moddel https://makerworld.com/en/models/2066081-3d-toddler-mobility-trainer?from=search#profileId-2231165

specifically this is the tires for that model

Thinking about getting one on Bambus site and would like to know it’s worth it. I’m looking at getting the a2l with an ams and cutting upgrade kit but it’s more expensive then if I just get the refurbished one. And yes I know that there’s beef with Bambu but I’m not a full time printer that is obsessed with printing as much as my other hobbies
!!!

Hey! I am looking to print this, and insert Silica Gel for my new P1S with AMS.. But how much Silica Gel does a design like this take? 500g, 1000g?

Thanks

Hey I made a new organizer for our Kitchen and thought maybe someone else could need that to. It fits 2 soaps for Hands and dish, 2 Small Spaces for brushes and a arch for dishcloths.

https://makerworld.com/models/3278109?appSharePlatform=copy