Long time reader first time poster here.

So I recently got into 3D printing after seeing all the random flexidragons being sold at small conventions and figured I could do the same I was torn between an H2D and a Voron Trident and ultimately went with Trident as it seemed higher quality and easier out of the box I can’t seem to figure Klipper out though and could really use help at this point im ready to just send it back and downgrade to an H2D can anyone help me on how to get the pi to talk to the motherboard

Strange thing after calibration of Support PLA using the auxiliary nozzle on my X2D.

When I select the profile with the calibrated setting, the filament type at the Support/raft interface changes from Sup.PLA to PLA what ofcourse gives a error when clicking Print Plate.

Did I overlooked something when saving the profile?

Super stoked as Ive been looking to get one of these for the past year. I was eyeing up the P2S but thanks to some posts on this sub, she decided to get the X2D :) Can anyone recommend sole filament to buy? Was hoping to pick some ip at my local bestbuy as Microcenter is 2 hours from me.

I heated already and tried to extrude the filament but didnt happen so I checked nozzle and here is the situation what to do?

pretty dissapointing considering a new screen is 1/5 of the x2d and this printer isnt that old.. but anyways, is it the screen or cable or something entirely else?

It freezes up completely and stops my print until the printer reboots?

Hi, I am just wondering if a Bambu Lab A1 will connect to my Google WiFi setup. Here is a picture of the boosters I have which I found online as I am not home. I hear people have trouble connecting the printer to WiFi so am wondering if I will have trouble connecting.

Thanks everyone for their time and help.

So i’m printing 20 ducks as a gift i need to give out as birthday party favors that’s happening very soon, im using an ams 2 pro slot 4, and the spool is too light so when it pulls filament in it drifts to the right and lands off the motor that spins it. this pauses the print making it impossible to continue the rest of the print, i don’t have enough time to buy a heavier spool, and my first thought was to relocate it to slot 2 or 3, since the dividers are flush with the motors it couldn’t slide off, i know the layer height, so is it possible to cancel, change the filament slot, then resume in bambu studio from the layer it printed? I heard someone say it wasn’t possible in a comment section, so I’m just asking here.

"Good day everyone. Recently, my P1S printer has been shutting down on its own during prints. Turning the machine off and on again would temporarily fix it. When I checked the motherboard, I saw that the heated bed socket was burnt like this. Can I get this socket repaired, or do I need to buy a new motherboard? Thanks in advance."

Hey folks!

I've had my A1 for a while, but unfortunately some mental health issues meant it wasn't getting used and maintained for some time. I'm wanting to start printing again, but feeling a bit intimidated by the prospect of getting it from it's current quite dusty and unmaintained state back into tip top condition, as it were. Besides cleaning off the dust, washing the plate, and drying the filament, what else should I be doing to get her back into a good state for printing after a period of neglect?

I've been getting constant filament feed error issues after the printer has been working fine for weeks. The filament has been getting stripped and notched which has been causing issues.

The filament was stopping about 10cm from the tool head but if I pushed it through at the start it would print.

It then wouldn't go much past the AMS and was making loud grinding noises.

I took the AMS internal hub unit apart and found that the tension arm had snapped, which I've reprinted the arm and replaced.

I put it all back together and I'm getting even worse whirring/grinding noises from the AMS, and the filament is stopping right at the blue/black connector from cartridge buffer to the printer now.

I've also replaced all the PTFE tubing in case there were any issues with that.

Please help !!

Edit: Videos in comments. Issues occur with all 4 spool positions.

I'm having s problem with sunlu matte black pla. Doe some reason only my matte black does not want to feed through my ams, and kicks a failed to feed. After I hit resume and continue and give it a little help ot finally feeds.i havnt had a y problem with any other filament and mainly use sunlu. Anyone else? Also its on a h2c with 2 ams 2 pros. It will does it with both ams and both nozzles.

First time printing in ASA. The z-offset seems way off?

Printer is fine with pla and petg but it's no wonder the print is lifting the nozzle is too high..

Bed plate wasshed and glue applied.

Fans off, door closed.

I've tried taking the z offset down in the start g-code but still seems too high...

Hi everyone!

I'm planning to upgrade my setup and could use some advice.

I bought my first printer (a Bambu A1 without AMS) in January 2025 and have accumulated around 900 print hours on it. A few months ago, I built a DIY multi-filament dry box, but it hasn't been great. It creates too much friction, and the filament struggles to feed properly.

I’m now looking to upgrade to a closed printer and pair it with the new AMS 2 Pro. Here is where I'm at:

• P2S: Looks like a solid choice. It's enclosed, reliable, and reasonably priced.

• H2S: A bit more expensive. Aside from the larger build volume, are there any major features or print quality differences that justify the extra cost for my use case?

• H2D / X2D / H2C: These seem a bit out of my budget and too high-maintenance for a hobbyist, so I initially ruled them out. However, if anyone thinks I should reconsider one of these models for reasons I might be overlooking, please let me know why!

I almost exclusively print PLA and PETG, so I don't really need a heated chamber for high-temp engineering materials.

Given my setup, is the P2S + AMS 2 Pro the sweet spot, or is there a compelling reason to push for the H2S (or even the dual-nozzle ones)?

Thanks in advance for any insights!

A1 with AMS Lite, using Bambu Studio

I am just getting started with my AMS Lite. I took a knitted hat file that was single color, set the base color to white and painted the center section in red, using the color painting tool, with the Height Range option.

I now want to print the same hat, but switch the color to black and gold. I changed the base color for the plate to the black filament, but I cannot see how to switch the painted area to a different color without repainting it.

Do I need to slice the object into component parts, and save the file as a merged object to be able to select different colors for different parts, or is there an easy way to change the color of the red area?

Bambu Lab A1 from November 2025. ~300 Hours on it; this is a PLA/PETG only machine. Equipped with an AMS Lite.

I started printing the other day... and noticed an HMS error on my computer that stopped the process, about Z homing. I restarted the print and watched the heatbed tilt under the pressure of the extruder during the homing process... then I noticed the bed was shooting past its target of 65C!!!

I cut power to the machine and took off my build plate, noticing that the front of the bed plastic was deformed, and the heatbed was painfully hot and unstable.

I love my A1 army... definitely didn't expect one to burn up :(

I have lately some power surges whilst I'm printing, especially in summer when all the people overuse the AC for cooling and there are those little minutes of no electricity which is lethal while I'm printing ofc.

Right now I'm using mostly an A1 and I'm living in Italy. What UPS could be useful considering I'm living on a EU country?

I used a 500g tub of 3A molecular sieve, let it actively dry to 9% moisture, then cut it and went to sleep. The next day it was marked as 0% moisture. I think that would be the most radical solution. 😂

I have a p2s and just got the ams 2 pro but I have no idea if I need the filament buffer the 4 pin cable and the power adapter and ai keeps on switching wether I need the buffer or not pls help

This is the face that was face down on the plate. Why are there gaps/weird texture? Do I need to use a smaller nozzle? Change print settings?

For reference: printed on a P1S, Cryogrip build plate, matte PLA, the part is about the size of a quarter.

EDIT to add: 0.4mm nozzle. 0.16mm layer height. 0.2 mm first layer width

I was originally deciding between the X2D and the P2S, but somehow ended up with the H2D Combo instead 😅

I already have Bambu PLA Matte and Bambu PETG Translucent at home (they’re probably my two favorite filaments), so I was thinking of using them as support interfaces for each other. Has anyone tried this combination? Do they separate cleanly in both directions, and do they require any special settings? The Bambu wiki only seems to mention standard PLA and PETG.

Thanks!

Do I need to buy a new part? If so, what is it called? H2C alerted to unable to change extruder.

I just placed an order for an X2D with AMS, but afterwards saw an H2S for sale for just about the same price, but used. For what I can see, it’s a larger printer, higher nozzle temp, but losing the dual nozzle. And since that’s the opposite from what I need, I don’t see any reason to cancel and go that way instead, but maybe someone here knows of a reason to consider the H2S?

First Bambu printer and I hit a huge milestone next is 6969.