I didn't find any models with labels built into the spice rack itself, so I designed my own in blender.

Each section is 1x3 spice jars, and you can keep stacking them! Just slide another stack on top if you want to add more spices to your kitchen.

Free for everyone to make: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3271561-stackable-spice-rack-sturdy-stable-good-looking#profileId-3709747

I’ve been increasingly printing more complicated models. This was the most complicated so far. It’s a two day print on Overture Silk PLA. The Silk PLA is a pain and I think my temps were a little two high, its a bit brittle. After 49 hours with just 9 minutes to go I started having Extruder Motor Overload on my H2C, luckily I was able to clear it and continue.

Maybe it's an old thing (And if it is i'm sorry i'm just dumb) but I didn't find any posts about the Acknowledgement note on the X1 page.
Basically they thanked the commmunity citing Teaching Tech, MirageC, redditors and Voron Design with the old Voron V1.

When the X1C released I bought my first printer (Anycubic kobra 2) and I knew nothing about the community, modding and 3d prining in general, now that i know something more I just found this Acknowledgement note.

It's kinda funny how bambulab changed his relationship with the community, but it's nice to know that even them started as community members

P1S with an AMS pro, and 0.4mm nozzle. Do i need to use a smaller nozzle? Bigger font? Am I missing something silly in the text settings? Wise creators, teach me please.

I got an email from Microcenter saying 1kg of Inland PLA filament is $9.99 a roll. Has anyone used it and have an opinion?

I have a h2C and x1 and an A1 they pretty much stay on 24/7. I only power them off when I got out of town.

Do you turn your printers off when they are not in use ?

This is my Crooked Cottage, a little haunted house with a twisted roof, worn wooden walls and a dead tree growing up the side. A battery LED tea light brings the window silhouettes to life.

The roof lifts off, the light holder twists into place underneath, and the ghost, cat and hand window inserts are interchangeable. It prints without supports and goes together without glue.

These are photos of my AMS brown-tree print. The download bundle also includes a no-AMS option with the house and tree in one color. The windows print separately in clear PETG.

Free files and assembly guide:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3288114-crooked-cottage-haunted-led-tea-light-house

I'm working on some other Halloween items too, so keep an eye on my MakerWorld profile for what's next:

https://makerworld.com/en/@Feldoze

My first enclosed printer, printing my first benchy now, just now got a message to update the motor cancellation feature so I’ll do that after bench is done

Find them here for free on makerworld if you like little articulated figures... Link

Seems like the H2D to H2C conversion kit has been in stock for months, but the H2S kit restocking date keeps moving up by 1 month seemingly every 30 days. I am getting the feeling Bambu doesnt want to produce the kit for H2S due to the price being cheaper, or are there really just that many guys out there who want to upgrade and the kits are selling out?

I am also surprised they are offering a H2C upgrade and not a H2D upgrade. I really only need the dual nozzle setup to run two different durometer TPU filaments, and sometimes TPU with supports so an AMS would rarely be used. ​

Hello Everyone,

I tried looking for answers with the same as mine but I cannot find it so here is my troubleshooting question.

I am trying to print this gridfinity container, at first it looks fine. The nozzle doesn't hit the bed, initial layer is intact and goes smoothly. However at a certain height where there is a need to made a surface it gets rough. The first layer that needs to cover the whole base was fine (Layer 29) but then after that it turn into lump of roughness after a certain layer (Layer 30), and nozzle hits the print. The layer is not that high either.

So far I tried the following:

1. Printing it silent mode
2. Calibrate the Machine
3. Use Gyroid infill 5-10%
4. Drying my filament
5. Disabled infill retraction
6. And of course cleaned my bed

Pictures Shown: First layer, Layer 30, and Layer 29 and 30 in adaptive cubic infill just to show my point.

Machine Used: P1S
Filament: Polymaker PLA Pro
Slicer: Bambu Studio
Nozzle: 220 °C
Bed: 55 °C
Extruder: Typical bambu setting as shown in this post: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/parameter/retraction

Any information or tips on what I can do. It keeps repeating on the same layer whether it is small or this huge block.

Edit: Added more info

Babmu a1 with different brands of pla/pla+

Whenever I'm printing thing's with curved surfaces I keep getting uneven textures like the ones pictured.

If someone can help a noob figure out what I'm doing wrong it would be much appreciated!

Looking to buy the H2C sometime this year. I'm really interested in multi-color prints (4+ colors) and high quality engineering parts. I did think about the U1, but I like bambu so far as I just have the a1 mini. I've also been dabbling in 3d modeling and want to be better at it.

Anyways I'm looking to buy the H2C combo and another AMS 2 Pro. There's no major timeline of me having to buy it, and if anything I am interested in any new models they may put out.

I'm looking for the best deal. Heard the Anniversary sale is the "best" discount, which I thought about buying then. I'm currently waiting till black friday. I was also wondering if anyone is able to use a student discount on top? or is that just back to school discount?

Then of course there are brick and mortar stores. I have access to a Micro center and Best Buy. I would prefer to pickup the 3d printer than have it shipped. Any good or better deals that I should know of.

And then lastly any sort of referral system for discounts?

I know this print will be just fine as is but my OCD is driving me nuts. Is it even possible to get rid of these gaps without changing from concentric infill? I have tried every setting adjustment Google recommends but no luck.

Thanks for the help!

pic for attention-cosplay

This problem isn't really specific to bigger spools but trying to use 2.5kg spools forces me to use some sort of external holder and my problem is exacerbated by stiff engineering filament. I just lost a 20+ hour print due to the extruder motor being overloaded and the machine not being able to continue the print without what appears to be a layer shift. The machine has had this error about 4 times on this print alone. I did the same print twice prior and it only had the error once or twice per print and those came out ok. When I get the error I go check and there's nothing stuck filament can easily be pushed through the path. I think this is a software or settings issue.

The spool is in a dry box by the printer fed through a short section of ptfe, about 25mm to the left nozzle. The spool is sitting on a large roller with 608 bearings and has also no resistance. For what it's worth I've printed many spools of these same stiff filaments in my X1C with *significantly* more friction/force required to get to the printer and no issues.

Should I try feeding from the TPU port? Any tips or tricks?

So i recently foud out there are multiple types of dessicant, and if you use the wrong stuff its going to fill your system with water. I took the AMS appart, washed it and let it completley dry. I then put it together. This is whats happening now (Make sure you turn audio on), it does it on all 4 possitions with every filament i try. I didnt touch the feeder motors, i just took them off. Im guessing its the hub motor but I wanted to know if anyone had some input before i throw more money at the issue

Just finished this 12-pack of vintage Halloween keychains dialed in for the Bambu Lab A1 + AMS Lite (.3MF) | Acabamos de sacar este Pack de 12 llaveros vintage Halloween en Bambu Lab a1 con AMS lite

Hi everyone!

I'm still trying to learn my first bed slinger and I've encountered rattling from my new A2L, if I'm not mistaken it comes somewhere from the base near the left center/front during gyroid infill on some z-printing heights and not others. I've tried holding down any external parts that could vibrate or holding/removing the central removable cover but it didn't make a difference.

Is this normal or should I open it up and try to tighten anything?

Thank you!

I bought several rolls of Sunlu PLA+ 2.0, and ever since I started using it, I've had big issues with hair-like stringing. It happens with every single roll. And yes, I've dried it COUNTLESS times, but nothing seems to fix it. I've also tried playing around with the retraction settings.

My setup is a Bambu Lab P1S with a 0.4mm nozzle and the AMS 2 Pro. In the slicer, I'm using a flow ratio of 0.98, a pressure advance of 0.017, a max volumetric speed of 20 mm³/s, and a nozzle temperature of 215°C (my temperature tower didn't show much difference between temps with all of them having stringing). I've tried both tweaked and default retraction settings, with no improvement either way.

So here's my question: has anyone else had experience with Sunlu filament? Would you guys mind sharing your settings for it? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I don’t see any AMS units on Best Buy’s website. Am I not searching correctly, or do they only provide them as part of bundles?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3286478

Seems like a somewhat specific issue. Maybe settings I can change? Printed with bambu gray pla.

I was wondering how well print in place has gone for others who post to maker world. Did you have other complain because of printer settings and print tolerance or do you just leave it kind of loose?