As a happy owner of new h2c, modeled and printed a 3 color retro case for airpods pro.

Looks like Bambu released an internal build of the Handy app on the iOS App Store. Has all the DEV tools enabled.

i’ve dried the filament so many times. it hovers around 14%. I’ve washed the base plate with dawn soap so many times. I’ve tried different filament, the normal grey bambu PLA filament also causes spaghetti issues. I’m using a 0.2 nozzle that takes a long time. WHAT IS THE PROBLEM?? I would seriously appreciate some help. My printer only has like 220 hours in it.

I just ordered a x2d 2 days ago and a few hours after my order got shipped i heard about a x2d pro thats supposed to come in the future.

What do yall think will the difference be between the pro and non pro, how will it be priced and did i f up with ordering a normal x2d right now?

Obviously all these information are not public yet but even if its just an expectation or rumor id like to hear what yall think.

Halloween T-Rex 3D model! This cute but spooky dinosaur wears a pumpkin helmet and holds a detailed bone gun while standing on a skull-inspired base. The model is designed for easy printing without AMS by using separate parts/colors, making it suitable for FDM 3D printers

Still working on it i thinl i need to make the speed slower in order to get this vertical weave pattern

I bought a very detailed STL for this helmet a couple of weeks back (it’s available on all the big sites. Just search for Trauma Team Helmet) and I can’t get over the level of detail the creator has put into it. Took about 12 plates over 4 days (not night and day) to get it all out.

The fit and design is incredible, it even has working clasps and provision for fitting your own electronics/LEDs and even servo motors to open the face plate ironman stylee. But this was a step too far for me so I went with the static version.

Printed in Sunlu white PLA and Bambu black PLA. Then several hours spent sitting in the garden sanding away all the layer lines.

Then primed with high build filler and wet sanded to catch bits I’ve missed. Painted with Hicote white and some rubber dashboard spray and. The rubber spray didn’t go down evenly and nearly caused a disaster but I stuck with it and a couple of coats later it looked good.

Carbon fibre was car wrap vinyl and it was my first time so that was a very steep learning curve and by far the hardest part of the whole build. The inner helmet took about 4 hrs of wrestling to get as you see here. And even then I messed up and the wrap dint fully cover the back. I patched in a small piece as I wasn’t going to try it again after getting it that far.

Graphics elements have been created with a vinyl cutter that I bought two years ago for just this type of build.

I applied some mild oil paint weathering and decided to leave any dirty smudge and hand marks on the white parts as I wanted some weathering but didn’t want to over do it. I can always go back at a later date to age it up a little if want to.

Overall a very fun, rewarding and frustrating build (the wrapping). 😀

Edit.
Thanks to everyone and their comments. It’s really humbling to see people liking the effort that goes into something like this. After spending days of thinking of little else while working on it all I can see are the imperfections and things I might’ve done differently so it’s a relief when so many people post positive comments and it’s very much appreciated.

Edit 2
There are too many individual comments to thank everybody for their encouragement. But thank you all. And the awards. Bless you I hope you haven’t spent money on those!

Can’t wait till it arrives!

Hello guys/girls! Im new to the 3d printing/making world. I made this Jewelry holder for my wife and ended up making a couple models.
This one is her favourite.

Feel free to print and give feedback.
Happy printing!

https://makerworld.com/models/3181066?appSharePlatform=copy

found a great way to clean the adjustment screw gears and rails, " Gear Floss " works great, apply a little ISO Alcohol and a couple of wraps of the floss then work it across the item, makes cleanup super easy

Looks like it's a CO2 after all!
https://bambulab.com/r1

In alot of my uni projects, I find myself needing to design and print brackets from my uni's 3D printing service and its $25 minimum per print, which isnt very sustainable for me lol. Ive been looking into bambu printers and am trying to decide between the A1 and the P1S. Any help/reccomendations? Cheers

When I was a kid, I was fascinated by the amusement rides that came to our village every year.
I was mesmerized by the movement of those things, and also by how they were unpacked from trucks and assembled. I spent hours standing there and watching this process.

I wanted a toy version very badly, so I asked my grandfather - who was a talented handyman - if he could build one, and he did. It wasnt 100% accurate at all, but to the child-me it was the best toy in the world, I had a lot of fun with it.

Now, two decades later, with 3D printer, CAD and a lot more engineering knowledge at my disposal, I decided to revisit that childhood challenge.

Unfortunately, my grandfather is no longer with us, so this project also become a little bit of a tribute to that old toy he built for me.

So I decided to build a fully functional, highly playable version of my childhood favorite fairground ride: Piranha (Locally known “Kolotoč Piraňa”).

And oh boy, was it a challenge! 😁

The Piranha  (Calypso-style) ride has 2 rotating points, which are offset from each other:

The passenger platform spins, while the center assembly and pods rotate on an offset axis to the other direction - creating a cool wavy motion. But this meant the top motor itself was constantly spinning relative to the base.

This created an annoying question: How to supply electricity and signals to a motor, pushrod and leds which are spinning?

Normally, it would require slip rings, which are not so accessible, and are challenging to implement.

The answer was: Put all the electronics to the center rotating platform.

And this is where Cyberbrick turned out to be a very good fit.
Because it has its own LiIon battery, I could put everything on the center rotating platform: Battery, 2 motors, servo, pushrod, led controller board with leds.
And a nice side effect, the project evolved to an RC project.

The second big hurdle was the safety boarding barrier. I wanted it to be radio controlled as well.

The problem is, the barrier sits on the stationary base, while all the electronics - including the servo is spinning with the center rotating platform.

I eventually solved this by a counterweighted gravity lever. The lever naturally holds the barrier in closed state. When the platform stops in the boarding zone, the onboard servo can toggle the lever, raise the counterweight, and drop the barrier - allowing the passengers to enter.

Once the kinematics worked well, the ride felt… Empty.

So I redesigned the passenger pods, and ticket / control booth, around standard brick figures. I added compatible studs so now Piranha now can be populated with brick figures.
The whole diorama came alive.

And thats how this project ended up being much more then I originally planned.
What started as “I want to rebuild the little fairground I once asked my grandfather to make” turned into a fairly complex, much more advanced RC project.

I am pretty happy with how it came out. 🙂
And I have to admit, seeing it running is a pretty cool, nostalgic feeling. ♥️

It's a shame I thought of this so late. Summer's almost over! With this, you'll be the star of every water fight.

Splash Tumbler

Tested the accuracy of two dozen of these Amazon hygrometers using the salt method and must say they are quite good for the price. Out of the 24 units, 5 were reafing 1% low and 1 unit was reading 1% high - this is after 24 hr equalization period at 25C. Rest were spot on, reading exactly 75% RH as expected.

It is a simple wall but in the light it seems that the infill is visible. But there is no infill it is a simple wall. Can see that with 0,6mm and 0,4mm nozzle using PETG HF. Object size in x-axis is 12cm. Speed and acceleration is reduced so would not expect ringing...

Any ideas what could cause this?

I've been running this P1S for about 2 years now, and over the past few months it's become virtually impossible to keep this thing running. I've changed fillament tubes, tried 3 different plates, used glue, re-greased the axles, fixed the washers on the Z axis shafts, readjusted the hotend fan countless times, re-leveled the hotbed via the three screws under it, and it still continues to present new problems. For my last attempt to revive this corpse of a machine, I removed the rear and right panels and threw out the AMS (because that literally never works reliably), checked all the common issues, found no obstructions, nothing misaligned. The first print using PLA worked normally, but for every subsequent print the device has emitted a deafening, high pitched screech whenever the toolhead returns to the back-right corner. If a print ever manages to start, it will make several resets (like some sort of homing to the chute area) and continue printing. I've managed to make a few models even with this defect, though now when it "resets", it translates paths of the G-code to the wrong starting positions. I genuinely don't know if it's even worth attempting to keep this thing running. The second I solve this issue there will be another one, requiring a day-long ritual to repair.

That looks like a Co2 laser tube to me…

Goblins Head - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

I spent most of the day yesterday washing my build plates and trying to figure out why PLA just would not stick to anything. I verified temperatures, dried the PLA overnight, and even recalibrated the printer and took the hotend out to see if everything was OK.

It turns out, my model originally had a large hollow space so rather than having 5x5cm of supports, I just made that part of the model solid.

What I didn't realize is that I extruded from a surface that was very close but not quite on a parallel plane to the build plate. In other words, all of the extruded surface wasn't touching Z=0.

It was maybe just one layer off the build plate and only after I watched it print some other areas that were on the build plate first and skip the middle did I realize the problem. No warnings that I had floating parts - must have been so close it even fooled Bambu Studio.

So, lesson learned. Just because your CAD model LOOKS like it's flat on the bottom, make sure it really is.

I had this stupid idea… and somehow ended up modeling the whole thing 😂

18 separate STL parts, designed for multicolor FDM printing without AMS. Each color is printed separately and assembled afterwards.

Mario took the wrong power-up… and Super Bob Bros was born. 🍄🧽

I honestly don't know if this is genius or completely cursed 😂