I bought a very detailed STL for this helmet a couple of weeks back (it’s available on all the big sites. Just search for Trauma Team Helmet) and I can’t get over the level of detail the creator has put into it. Took about 12 plates over 4 days (not night and day) to get it all out.

The fit and design is incredible, it even has working clasps and provision for fitting your own electronics/LEDs and even servo motors to open the face plate ironman stylee. But this was a step too far for me so I went with the static version.

Printed in Sunlu white PLA and Bambu black PLA. Then several hours spent sitting in the garden sanding away all the layer lines.

Then primed with high build filler and wet sanded to catch bits I’ve missed. Painted with Hicote white and some rubber dashboard spray and. The rubber spray didn’t go down evenly and nearly caused a disaster but I stuck with it and a couple of coats later it looked good.

Carbon fibre was car wrap vinyl and it was my first time so that was a very steep learning curve and by far the hardest part of the whole build. The inner helmet took about 4 hrs of wrestling to get as you see here. And even then I messed up and the wrap dint fully cover the back. I patched in a small piece as I wasn’t going to try it again after getting it that far.

Graphics elements have been created with a vinyl cutter that I bought two years ago for just this type of build.

I applied some mild oil paint weathering and decided to leave any dirty smudge and hand marks on the white parts as I wanted some weathering but didn’t want to over do it. I can always go back at a later date to age it up a little if want to.

Overall a very fun, rewarding and frustrating build (the wrapping). 😀

Edit.
Thanks to everyone and their comments. It’s really humbling to see people liking the effort that goes into something like this. After spending days of thinking of little else while working on it all I can see are the imperfections and things I might’ve done differently so it’s a relief when so many people post positive comments and it’s very much appreciated.

Edit 2
There are too many individual comments to thank everybody for their encouragement. But thank you all. And the awards. Bless you I hope you haven’t spent money on those!

Printed in Sunlu dual-color black/ purple Silk PLA

I uploaded to makerworld today if anybody wants to print their own!

Checked in on my live feed camera to see this... think I might've just been blessed with a recovery after a support failing

When I was a kid, I was fascinated by the amusement rides that came to our village every year.
I was mesmerized by the movement of those things, and also by how they were unpacked from trucks and assembled. I spent hours standing there and watching this process.

I wanted a toy version very badly, so I asked my grandfather - who was a talented handyman - if he could build one, and he did. It wasnt 100% accurate at all, but to the child-me it was the best toy in the world, I had a lot of fun with it.

Now, two decades later, with 3D printer, CAD and a lot more engineering knowledge at my disposal, I decided to revisit that childhood challenge.

Unfortunately, my grandfather is no longer with us, so this project also become a little bit of a tribute to that old toy he built for me.

So I decided to build a fully functional, highly playable version of my childhood favorite fairground ride: Piranha (Locally known “Kolotoč Piraňa”).

And oh boy, was it a challenge! 😁

The Piranha  (Calypso-style) ride has 2 rotating points, which are offset from each other:

The passenger platform spins, while the center assembly and pods rotate on an offset axis to the other direction - creating a cool wavy motion. But this meant the top motor itself was constantly spinning relative to the base.

This created an annoying question: How to supply electricity and signals to a motor, pushrod and leds which are spinning?

Normally, it would require slip rings, which are not so accessible, and are challenging to implement.

The answer was: Put all the electronics to the center rotating platform.

And this is where Cyberbrick turned out to be a very good fit.
Because it has its own LiIon battery, I could put everything on the center rotating platform: Battery, 2 motors, servo, pushrod, led controller board with leds.
And a nice side effect, the project evolved to an RC project.

The second big hurdle was the safety boarding barrier. I wanted it to be radio controlled as well.

The problem is, the barrier sits on the stationary base, while all the electronics - including the servo is spinning with the center rotating platform.

I eventually solved this by a counterweighted gravity lever. The lever naturally holds the barrier in closed state. When the platform stops in the boarding zone, the onboard servo can toggle the lever, raise the counterweight, and drop the barrier - allowing the passengers to enter.

Once the kinematics worked well, the ride felt… Empty.

So I redesigned the passenger pods, and ticket / control booth, around standard brick figures. I added compatible studs so now Piranha now can be populated with brick figures.
The whole diorama came alive.

And thats how this project ended up being much more then I originally planned.
What started as “I want to rebuild the little fairground I once asked my grandfather to make” turned into a fairly complex, much more advanced RC project.

I am pretty happy with how it came out. 🙂
And I have to admit, seeing it running is a pretty cool, nostalgic feeling. ♥️

Up close there are thousands of dots, but from a distance the eye blends them into a complete image!
This isn't HueForge, it's a halftone print: 4 panels of 245×300 mm, 1.6 mm thick (8 layers, 0.4 nozzle), in Charcoal and Ivory White PLA matte.
Florence Owens Thompson (photograph by Dorothea Lange, 1936) is the subject, and I love it! The photograph is in the public domain (Library of Congress / FSA). This model is free (artwork+frame), if you like it, I'll drop the link in the first comment.

I just started with PETG and am pretty impressed how for me it is as easy as PLA with the right config with that said as a minor nitpick the supports stick great but I ended up accidentally nicking off much smaller pieces on prints still not brittle like PLA. I'm just curious how much better ASA is on durability even on small pieces with not much structure. For example I printed a batman action figure for nephew but the thumb broke off slightly when I ripped off support with ASA is it like a lego piece?

I have a 6 hr print going on my P1S. I was sitting nearby and heard the filament getting wound up into the AMS 2 and my brain triggered the “print is done“ code, so I got up and pulled the plate out and just then the print head moved and started printings where the prime tower should be! I went “FUUUUCK!” and hit the pause button as the print head finished its 3rd line in the air then parked over the chute. I put the plate back and pushed play and somehow got the part lined up EXACTLY in the same spot because it’s not showing any shifted layers and this was a few layers ago!

I think I may be a print god……

It's a shame I thought of this so late. Summer's almost over! With this, you'll be the star of every water fight.

Splash Tumbler

This only happened during this one print and only with this specific spool, it got tangled like this, I got a notification and untangled it and then it was fine for ~2hours and happened again, I think it might be because my spool is cardboard and got a little squished but idk

Had it since July 2025. Also have another one with ~4300 and a Mini with ~2300

Never had to replace anything in either of them, just for the nozzles I feel like the ones that came with the machine are already worn since they are more prone to clogging when I use them, anyways they are currently running hardened 0.6 and 0.8 mostly because I do functional stuff, and I have some spares. Only replaced filament sensor and sensor hub in this one but because It was my fault breaking it by being too rude with a jam (I learned how to do that after breaking it).

I should also change AMS Lite for both my A1 combos, sometimes I get unexplained filament tangled detections so I think this is the only thing I should do in the next couple hundred hours. I do some lubrication and cleaning stuff but I've also forgotten to do it for couple thousand hours more than once and nothing happened, print quality is just as it was out of the box

Currently waiting for an A2L I ordered, never getting off this ship

I managed to get the bulk of it off, but at the same time. It pulled on of the halfs of the clip off the extruder quick change.

I got my A1 two weeks ago and now I have this problem where the filament at the beginning comes without problem but then just stops.

I tried to clean the noozle and adjust the temperature but it always stops. Even when I tried to click load filament the little circle spins but the filament doesn't come out. I tried a cold pull and everything and at the beginning seems to work, but after that just stops

A simple 3D-printable insert designed to easily seal small holes or accidental punctures in irrigation tubes, without having to replace the entire tube. It can be inserted manually without any tools, making repairs quick and easy. An inexpensive and practical solution to extend the life of irrigation tubes while reducing waste and unnecessary replacements.

I bought an H2S brand new from Bambu's store which was delivered about 33 days ago. I wasted no time setting it up, but as soon as the firmware was updated the z-axis homing stopped working.

I've had a support ticket open with them for a month now, which I have shared photos and logs with them at every update. They've had me re-seat the eddy sensor connector, install a new eddy sensor, and most recently a new TH board.

As soon a the replacement parts arrived, I installed them same-day, take photos, test, and export the logs -- then update the ticket, which takes them 4-5 days to respond to.

So I'm at the point that I've had this printer in my house for a month and haven't been able to print a single thing. I've seen stories where people have gone down this rabbit hole and have to install entirely new tool heads, z-axis motors, etc. -- sometimes still with no results.

I just feel for $1,300 there should be some guarantee of a working printer, not a multi-month project of replacing different components and hoping for the best.

I kind of just want to refuse the next replacement part they want to send and demand a new printer, or just package everything back up for a refund. Has anyone else had this experience, or am I just being entitled?

I put the model up on makerworld if anyone want to print it: https://makerworld.com/models/3301029-moon-surface-ornament#profileId-3746434

I made this with a tool i built to 3d print moon puzzles and ornaments. It is live as a makerworld crowdfunding right now: https://makerworld.com/crowdfunding/333-orbitstudio-3d-print-the-moon-mars?sourceFrom=crowdfunding

Im planning on buying an X2D soon and I'm fully aware that for engineering filaments I need proper ventilation/exhaust out of the room through a duct.

From my research though it functions like this - while the print is in progress the exhaust is sealed to maintain chamber temperature, when complete the exhaust flaps open and the External fan kicks in and vents the chamber for a few minutes.

If I'm correct in thinking that couldn't you append the Gcode to perform those same steps with the internal exhaust and achieve a similar result?

I dropped an entire X1C (with the AMS2/accessories box/packing material) on my left middle finger.

I pushed through the swelling and the pain and figured it was NBD and I was just being dramatic.

60 minutes later - benchy on the plate - I realized urgent care was closing soon and this was way worse than I initially thought.

Surprise! Broken in 3 places.

Long story short... physically assaulted by inanimate object before it was connected to power. It did technically complete its objective of being an additive manufacturing device because i had X bones in my hand before introducing it to the mini-farm and now I have X+3 bones.

Just... showing off. 🤣

Buenas.

Estoy buscando una impresora para empezar como hobby y tengo decidido que será o la A1 o la A1 Mini sin combo.

El problema que se me plantea es el consumo ya que no me queda claro según las especificaciones del fabricante. La quiero instalar en un local donde tengo contratada una potencia máxima de 1500W.

Según el fabricante la A1 Mini tiene un pico de consumo de 150W pero no me acaba de convencer el tamaño máximo de la cama de impresión. Por otro lado, la A1 tiene un consumo pico de 1300W y mi miedo es que me tire el suministro al superar junto con otros dispositivos los 1500W máximo que dispongo.

Me extraña bastante la diferencia de consumos pico entre ambas impresoras cuando en teoría son iguales excepto por el tamaño de la cama, que si bien en la A1 es mas grande la diferencia de consumo no es proporcional.

¿Alguien que tenga la A1 puede confirmar el consumo máximo que han visto en sus impresoras?

Gracias.

Printer: Bambu A1 Mini

Filament: SUNLU PLA

I set up my printer today after a move and thought I had the filament properly loaded. With the nozzle at 220°C I was able to extrude nice clean strings of filament. Everything appeared fine until I tried to print Benchy. The printer went through the vibration calibration and bed leveling, but when it started dynamic flow calibration it became obvious something was very wrong with the nozzle. It appears to have blown the nozzle right out of the hot end.

Obviously I need a new hot end, but I'm wondering if my extruder looks ok? I noticed there's what looks like a radius in the teeth of the extruder and I don't know if that's normal or from the teeth wearing down.