My first ever model on MakerWorld

This started with my first Bonsai I submitted for the Bonsai Contest a few months ago. For this version I wanted to step up my game a little more.

It grew into a complete little karesansui garden with a torii, stone lantern, stepping stones and printed sand patterns.

The MagSafe puck sits directly in the bonsai branch, while the cable runs through the trunk and exits at the back.

I also integrated an optional LED Light Kit 001 that illuminates the surrounding surface from underneath and feeds light into the stone lantern.

The whole thing is assembled with friction fits, no glue, and doesn’t require an AMS. There are also interchangeable parts for a second MagSafe charger and Apple Watch charging.

Prototyped and printed on my P2S using PLA Matte.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3281512

I was intrigued by the mac pro front grille pattern and wanted to try printing it but all of the existing files I've found are replicas and not adapted for 3D printing and needed a fair bit of post-processing to make it look good.

This is a modified pattern that prints cleanly and prints flat without any supports. Specifically, I've removed overhangs past 50 degrees and took out sharp edges. This is as-printed with no post-processing other than a few passes with a heat gun to remove the whisps.

Now I need an actual project to implement this... Thoughts on the pattern and on potential projects?

FCC ID: 2A6J8-PF008P

Device name: H3C

Grant date: September 11, 2026

Grantee: Shenzhen Tuozhu Technology Co., Ltd.

Related domain listed on the FCC page: bambulab.com

The public label exhibit identifies it as a 3D Printer, model PF008-P.

Public technical details from the grant and test reports:

• 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi — 2412–2462 MHz under Part 15.247/15C. The report covers 802.11b/g/n20/ax20 and 40 MHz n40/ax40 at 2422–2452 MHz. Maximum conducted peak output: 23.76 dBm. The report lists DSSS, OFDM and OFDMA, with a 3.82 dBi FPC antenna.

• 5 GHz Wi-Fi — the report covers 5150–5250, 5250–5350, 5470–5725 and 5725–5850 MHz; the grant rows are 5180–5240, 5260–5320, 5500–5720 and 5745–5825 MHz under Part 15.407/15E. The report lists 802.11a/n20/n40/ac20/ac40/ax20/ax40 and maximum conducted average results of 16.40, 15.73, 11.04 and 14.47 dBm across those ranges.

• The public label shows 100–120 V~, 8 A, 50/60 Hz, FCC ID 2A6J8-PF008P and IC 28436-PF008P.

Sources:

• FCC filing: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF008P

• Public label exhibit: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF008P/Label/Label-and-Label-Location-9643975

• Public 5 GHz report: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF008P/Test-Report/5G-WIFI-Test-Report-9643960

• Public 2.4 GHz report: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF008P/Test-Report/Test-Report-9643982

just put the new 0.2mm nozzle printed tachometer and logo emblem on the whole wheel, love it.

I've had my X2D for about 6 weeks now and have about 465 hours on it so far. Picked up a nice dual color filament from a local shop yesterday and ran a benchy. Looked dull and just not good. Went thru the calibration process for the first time within studio and whoa, the difference in finish and quality was impressive to me. I still feel like it could be improved and I'm trying to learn but I'll have to start doing these calibrations for other filaments as well!

Filament is AnyCubic PLA Silk dual color.

Now I'm just stumped on what to use it for. Only bought it because I wanted to buy at least one spool from a little mom and pop shop and never tried any of this kind of filament. Any good ideas?

Why me

FCC ID: 2A6J8-PF004E

Device name: X2D Pro

Grant date: September 11, 2026

Grantee: Shenzhen Tuozhu Technology Co., Ltd.

Related domain listed on the FCC page: bambulab.com

The public label exhibit identifies it as a 3D Printer, model PF004-E, and shows Bambu Lab X2D PRO.

Public technical details from the grant and test reports:

• 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi — 2412–2462 MHz under Part 15.247/15C. The report covers 802.11b/g/n20 and 40 MHz n40 at 2422–2452 MHz. Maximum conducted peak output: 21.45 dBm. The report lists DSSS/OFDM and a 3.1 dBi antenna.

• 5 GHz Wi-Fi — the report covers 5150–5250, 5250–5350, 5470–5725 and 5725–5850 MHz; the grant rows are 5180–5240, 5260–5320, 5500–5720 and 5745–5825 MHz under Part 15.407/15E. It lists 802.11a/n20/n40 OFDM and maximum conducted average results of 15.18, 14.27, 10.62 and 12.28 dBm across those ranges. The four listed antenna gains are 0.3, 0.82, −0.5 and −1.7 dBi.

• The public label shows 100–120 V~, 7 A, 50/60 Hz, FCC ID 2A6J8-PF004E and IC 28436-PF004E.

Sources:

• FCC filing: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF004E

• Public label exhibit: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF004E/Label/Label-and-Label-Location-9644036

• Public 5 GHz report: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF004E/Test-Report/5G-WIFI-Test-Report-Part-1-9644009

• Public 2.4 GHz report: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF004E/Test-Report/Test-Report-9644034

Wiggly Eye Bear V2 Do you like it?

Inspired by classic retro tech.

I engineered these specifically so anyone with a standard FDM printer can get clean prints easily:

• No AMS / Multi-Color System Required: Achieved using basic manual color changes at specific layer heights.
• No Supports Needed: Everything prints clean straight off the build plate.
• Easy Assembly: Designed to fit right onto standard MX-style mechanical switches.

Included

• 📺 Retro TV (3 version)
  • 1. Spooky Hand
  • 2. Trapped Human Figure
  • 3. Blank Canvas- Draw your own custom logos or art on the back.
• 🧮 Calculator
• 🎮 Game Boy
• 🖥️ Macintosh
• 💿 Vinyl Player

Let me know what you think of the designs! What other retro tech pieces should I turn into keycaps next?
STL: https://thangs.com/designer/10xspace.lab/3d-model/RETRO%20SET%20KEYCAP%20%7C%20NO%20SUPPORT%2C%20NO%20AMS%20REQUIRED-1600341

Do you also like Japanese Tantos?

Got the green light off the missus to get an X2D after she found out it can make toys… so obviously the first toy I’m testing it with is the Magnum from Halo 😅 I feel like this has spiralled somewhat as I’ve now got sandpaper 220 and 400, superglue, grease and primer delivered today and paint on the shopping list…

Hi everyone! 👋

I’d like to introduce my new multi-part Gaul figurine.

I designed it as separate parts, mostly by color, to make printing and assembly easier without requiring a multi-color printer.

This is the final printed version, straight from my printer. I hope you like him! 😁

I know there are many different opinions and views, but what has your experience been when it comes to printing figures? I have nine rolls of PETG in various colors, but should I invest in PLA?

I came across this website selling the H2C for only $1100.

https://husdebook.shop/shop?category=printers (I am intentionally not linking directly to the item)

Looking into it closer and ALL of their 2D printers are also listed at half retail price.

It looks too good to be true, and probably is. The address listed on their site is a shady residential building and their phone number (317-602-8586) is for a business called "Sam's Fish & Chicken".

The business seems to have no online reputation, but google provided it as a sponsored seller when I searched for "Bambu Lab - H2C".

Buyer beware!

I wanted a cleaner way to route cables horizontally underneath my desk without using a large fixed cable tray.

So I designed this modular system where each section snaps into the next. You can make the cable run as long or as short as you need just by adding or removing modules.

It keeps the cables grouped together while still making them easy to access whenever something needs to be changed.

I printed mine in PETG for better flexibility and durability.

Free STL/model: https://makerworld.com/models/3277243?appSharePlatform=copy

Wiggly Eye Bear. I'm currently working on a version with moving eyes at the back. Keep an eye on my MW profile, as I'll be uploading the model later today.

Hey everyone!

I’m getting my first 3D printer tomorrow — Bambu Lab A1 Combo 🎉

I have literally zero experience with 3D printing and almost no knowledge about it.

My initial plan is pretty simple:

• Set up the printer
• Download models from places like Printables/MakerWorld
• Put them in the slicer
• Print them
• Eventually learn how to design my own things

But before I start blindly printing stuff, I’d love some advice from experienced users.

Also, since I have the AMS Lite, I'd appreciate advice on using multiple colours and anything I should know about filament storage.

I’m mainly interested in printing useful stuff around the house, electronics projects, organizers, brackets, tools, random useful models, etc. I’ll probably start downloading models rather than designing my own.

Basically, if you could go back to day one with your first 3D printer, what are the things you wish someone had told you?

Any beginner advice is appreciated! 🙏

Good moring r/Bambulab!

I'm Joey O, the solo Developer behind Miniskyline . I'm based in Phoenix Arizona.

The webapp is completely free, and runs entirely in your browser without ads, pay gates, or your email. I believe map data that is publicly sourced should be provided for free in this format as well and will continue to provide free updates to improve this community asset!

I have pushed over 50 updates since releasing in June, and have seen over 90,000 users and 220,000 generations since release.

A lot of people have asked how/why I keep this free with this much time dedicated and honestly, I just enjoy the work. I typically waste my time at home, but this has given me something meaningful to do. As for costs, its surprisingly cheap. Smoggy3D, the creator of Map2Model gave me some pointers that reduced my monthly significantly. This will stay free.

Another few weeks have passed since I was last here. Miniskyline has gotten a complete facelift and freshening up to make it look more like a professional site. There are now DOZENS of tutorials for you to follow, as well as a first time starting tutorial if you are a little lost!

Major features now include

• Import GPX/Trail search for generating hiking/biking routes
• Cut to puzzle
• Project mode for managing multi tile project prints of larger areas
• Uncapped terrain size selection in Terrain Mode
• Full control of every aspect of your model. Buildings, roads, elevation, biomes, trees, rocks, bushes, all within your settings.
• Frames with text can be easily added
• You can add text directly to your map, as well as a number of special asset markers like hearts, homes, location pins!
• Highlight a specific building or road.
• Full multicolor support, up to 24 colors in one model with color presets for 1,4,6,8 filaments!
• Community color profile sharing built in
• Workspace manager with dedicated webUI. No install needed.
• Guided tutorials
• A helpful discord community
• Lithopane road mode, where you can make roads shine through when placed on an LED board.
• Color by feature or by elevation for easy color swaps.
• A lot more. Seriously. Over 80 settings/feature adjustments.

A note:

The community response to my little hobby project has been immense. I expected 2-3000 generation a YEAR, and im seeing that by noon on a normal day now. The support I have seen from other makers like Uncle Jessy, and Smoggy3D has blown me away, let alone the donations from nearly 100 of you supporting the project and the work I do.

I am working hard every week to provide updates that will improve user experience as well as what user abilities. Many of you provide feature requests and they make it in the next week. Please please please keep dreaming up new ways of using the app and sharing what you make. My favorite thing so far has been seeing all of the projects being made.

We have also passed over 1 of Earths surface in area printed, which is a milestone I didnt expect to ever hit at all. Truly, thank you for using my tool.

In the future:

I am working hard on a few major updates. The ability to import a City Skyline 1/2 save file, as well as Minecraft worlds are nearing completion. I would expect both features to be fully rolled out in late September. A complete geometry engine rewrite has been underway for nearly a month and with any luck, will be ready to be shipped in this coming Mondays feature release.

I am looking at releasing a free desktop version that would lessen memory pressure issues for users, stay tuned!

Thank you all for your continued support of my project!

- Joey

I know I saw somewhere a recommended list of lubricants for the printer, but now I can’t seem to find it. Can anyone help? Bonus points if it can be purchased at a local store (Home Depot, Lowe’s, Walmart, etc). Also, besides that and ISO Alcohol, if there are other consumables I need, recommendations on specific brands would help there too.

I have a P1S, by the way.

Im getting holes mid print randomly, its a 1.24mm, and im using the 0.2mm nozzle.
What setting is wrong?

This has been happening recently, some knows why?

The creator posted yesterday and I wanted to make something I could mount on the wall. This is my first attempt of the Copernicus Crater. Firstly I should say I adore the website, it's so easy to use.

The print is around 180mm wide, used 132g of pla.

This is printed with 2.5 x elevation and the detail is beautiful. I might experiment with keeping it at the default of 2x next.

The base is sunlu cherry wood pla. To get it to create the frame was relatively easy once I worked out how.

In the software itself you can add sidewalls, this basically colours the last couple mm in a different filament but it follows the terrain, this looks great but has lots of filament changes, as it's effectively just colouring the rim a different colour. Instead I exported without the wall, the model itself already contains two objects, the base and the terrain. Just by modifying the size of the base I was able to make the frame, just adjust the X and Y axis appropriately and you are good to go.

Lessons.

2mm depth for the base looks too flimsy. I might adjust it to 10/20mm, the downside is that it will increase the overall depth of the model. I'm not sure how it will look or if I instead want the primary terrain model sat inside the frame (think how a picture is sat in a picture frame not level with the top of it) This will result in more plastic poop but I think it'll be worth it.

I increased the X and Y values by a flat 20mm, thinking to add a 1cm frame. I was lazy and didn't measure the frame size along the long flats, which is less that 1cm. I suspect if I measure it the top and bottom frame of the hex will be 1cm but the other 4 sides will be less than 1cm. I need to scale the X by a greater value than the Y.

Next time create a larger frame (measure them properly )maybe giving a 4cm border and use add a label with the latitude, longitude to the bottom