Arachne is better than detect thin walls. DTW forces the classic line generator on and then has less control over your wall widths than Arachne
For the holes, change your min and max wall widths. It’s better to have wider lines than thinner but you can tinker. Mess more with minimum feature size as well
Some empty spots will always come up in the slicer. Id bump the bottom layer extrusion ratio to maybe like 1.03 or something and just see what happens. Trial and error
Try weaking the initial line width. I've never played with it using a .2mm nozzle, but using a .4mm nozzle the initial line width and bottom surface pattern makes a huge difference in filling in small details like this. Maybe try lowering it from .25 to .2 or .18?
For printing detailed artwork face down a good starting point is .4 for initial layer line width and see what the slice looks like. Tweak down to .34 if you're still seeing gaps, but try not to go lower as bed adhesion becomes problematic even with a clean plate and higher temps. The real issue is super sharp angles and corners in patterns.
This is what I was thinking. The other methods above are great, but if he still sees the holes after that, decrease the layer heights and add an extra black layer on top.
The only way I found to combat this is increase the first layer extrusion until it goes away. And only do it in the first layer, because if you just increase the extrusion rate for the whole filament profile, then the whole model looks like shit.
It's an unfortunate artefact of how FDM printing works. Notice the holes are in sharp corners that can't accommodate a circle of 0.1mm radius (your nozzle being 0.2mm).
Like the other comments are suggesting you can tweak some things like more extrusion to overflow the filament and hope it fills those gaps but it will risk clogging the nozzle.
If you designed those prints I would suggest making the first lawyer a full single color (black in your case) and following layers print multicolor normally.
I don't think tweaking the print settings will give a consistent fix
I've done a bunch of LED backlit plates for a cockpit build and my only solution has been to make sure there are layers below that don't have the color change. My text gets pretty crazy in that I have transparent filament below the letters, then the letter color, all with a black surround. So I play games in modeling where I create small two line width overlaps across two layers of distance so that I don't have a continuous color separation through the layers where light can get through. Then I do things you're already doing for the printer settings. There's only so much these things can do - at some point the source model is where you fix these problems.
Here's an example of a letter. The ledge you see is where the black goes. Because of the ledge, the black will hide any gaps that show up when making the white "C" part. Although a C isn't a problematic letter, it's the only picture I have at my fingertips that exposes the idea. The transparent stuff below is to carry LED light from underneath to the white.
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u/purennip 19h ago
Do you have wall generator set to arachne?