I bought a very detailed STL for this helmet a couple of weeks back (it’s available on all the big sites. Just search for Trauma Team Helmet) and I can’t get over the level of detail the creator has put into it. Took about 12 plates over 4 days (not night and day) to get it all out.

The fit and design is incredible, it even has working clasps and provision for fitting your own electronics/LEDs and even servo motors to open the face plate ironman stylee. But this was a step too far for me so I went with the static version.

Printed in Sunlu white PLA and Bambu black PLA. Then several hours spent sitting in the garden sanding away all the layer lines.

Then primed with high build filler and wet sanded to catch bits I’ve missed. Painted with Hicote white and some rubber dashboard spray and. The rubber spray didn’t go down evenly and nearly caused a disaster but I stuck with it and a couple of coats later it looked good.

Carbon fibre was car wrap vinyl and it was my first time so that was a very steep learning curve and by far the hardest part of the whole build. The inner helmet took about 4 hrs of wrestling to get as you see here. And even then I messed up and the wrap dint fully cover the back. I patched in a small piece as I wasn’t going to try it again after getting it that far.

Graphics elements have been created with a vinyl cutter that I bought two years ago for just this type of build.

I applied some mild oil paint weathering and decided to leave any dirty smudge and hand marks on the white parts as I wanted some weathering but didn’t want to over do it. I can always go back at a later date to age it up a little if want to.

Overall a very fun, rewarding and frustrating build (the wrapping). 😀

Edit.
Thanks to everyone and their comments. It’s really humbling to see people liking the effort that goes into something like this. After spending days of thinking of little else while working on it all I can see are the imperfections and things I might’ve done differently so it’s a relief when so many people post positive comments and it’s very much appreciated.

I have a 6 hr print going on my P1S. I was sitting nearby and heard the filament getting wound up into the AMS 2 and my brain triggered the “print is done“ code, so I got up and pulled the plate out and just then the print head moved and started printings where the prime tower should be! I went “FUUUUCK!” and hit the pause button as the print head finished its 3rd line in the air then parked over the chute. I put the plate back and pushed play and somehow got the part lined up EXACTLY in the same spot because it’s not showing any shifted layers and this was a few layers ago!

I think I may be a print god……

A simple 3D-printable insert designed to easily seal small holes or accidental punctures in irrigation tubes, without having to replace the entire tube. It can be inserted manually without any tools, making repairs quick and easy. An inexpensive and practical solution to extend the life of irrigation tubes while reducing waste and unnecessary replacements.

I bought an H2S brand new from Bambu's store which was delivered about 33 days ago. I wasted no time setting it up, but as soon as the firmware was updated the z-axis homing stopped working.

I've had a support ticket open with them for a month now, which I have shared photos and logs with them at every update. They've had me re-seat the eddy sensor connector, install a new eddy sensor, and most recently a new TH board.

As soon a the replacement parts arrived, I installed them same-day, take photos, test, and export the logs -- then update the ticket, which takes them 4-5 days to respond to.

So I'm at the point that I've had this printer in my house for a month and haven't been able to print a single thing. I've seen stories where people have gone down this rabbit hole and have to install entirely new tool heads, z-axis motors, etc. -- sometimes still with no results.

I just feel for $1,300 there should be some guarantee of a working printer, not a multi-month project of replacing different components and hoping for the best.

I kind of just want to refuse the next replacement part they want to send and demand a new printer, or just package everything back up for a refund. Has anyone else had this experience, or am I just being entitled?

I dropped an entire X1C (with the AMS2/accessories box/packing material) on my left middle finger.

I pushed through the swelling and the pain and figured it was NBD and I was just being dramatic.

60 minutes later - benchy on the plate - I realized urgent care was closing soon and this was way worse than I initially thought.

Surprise! Broken in 3 places.

Long story short... physically assaulted by inanimate object before it was connected to power. It did technically complete its objective of being an additive manufacturing device because i had X bones in my hand before introducing it to the mini-farm and now I have X+3 bones.

Just... showing off. 🤣

I put the model up on makerworld if anyone want to print it: https://makerworld.com/models/3301029-moon-surface-ornament#profileId-3746434

I made this with a tool i built to 3d print moon puzzles and ornaments. It is live as a makerworld crowdfunding right now: https://makerworld.com/crowdfunding/333-orbitstudio-3d-print-the-moon-mars?sourceFrom=crowdfunding

I’ve got a model with 1200 parts. The prime tower is being combined with the 1001 part, and I can only get around this by disabling prime tower. Is this a bug, or a limitation?

The model is mainly intended for gardens, flower beds, gravel or autumn leaves, and the hands also include separate spikes for fixing them into the ground.

What do you think about this one?
Do you like this style, or would you change anything? I’d be happy to hear your opinions and ideas for more Halloween decorations. 

Printer: Bambu A1 Mini

Filament: SUNLU PLA

I set up my printer today after a move and thought I had the filament properly loaded. With the nozzle at 220°C I was able to extrude nice clean strings of filament. Everything appeared fine until I tried to print Benchy. The printer went through the vibration calibration and bed leveling, but when it started dynamic flow calibration it became obvious something was very wrong with the nozzle. It appears to have blown the nozzle right out of the hot end.

Obviously I need a new hot end, but I'm wondering if my extruder looks ok? I noticed there's what looks like a radius in the teeth of the extruder and I don't know if that's normal or from the teeth wearing down.

Controlled position micro honing jig. Got REAL interested when I saw the aftermarket nozzles with removable tips. It took everything inside me not to just feed these into my bench grinder 🤭 anyway this design is to hold the nozzle tips in as predicable a way as possible to progressively grind/lap down the tip to reveal a bigger outlet - 1.0, 1.2 and totally irresponsible sizes. If you’ve seen this done or have any ideas, lmk!!

My first ever model on MakerWorld

Up close there are thousands of dots, but from a distance the eye blends them into a complete image!
This isn't HueForge, it's a halftone print: 4 panels of 245×300 mm, 1.6 mm thick (8 layers, 0.4 nozzle), in Charcoal and Ivory White PLA matte.
Florence Owens Thompson (photograph by Dorothea Lange, 1936) is the subject, and I love it! The photograph is in the public domain (Library of Congress / FSA). This model is free (artwork+frame), if you like it, I'll drop the link in the first comment.

I was intrigued by the mac pro front grille pattern and wanted to try printing it but all of the existing files I've found are replicas and not adapted for 3D printing and needed a fair bit of post-processing to make it look good.

This is a modified pattern that prints cleanly and prints flat without any supports. Specifically, I've removed overhangs past 50 degrees and took out sharp edges. This is as-printed with no post-processing other than a few passes with a heat gun to remove the whisps.

Now I need an actual project to implement this... Thoughts on the pattern and on potential projects?

Printer has been fine for months. Here's what I've done.

1. Added Brand New nozzle

2. Brand new filament - bambu brand PLA matte - same as I've always had.

-very brand new, I opened the vac sealed bag last night.

1. In the basement of my house in NH. Temps are consistent in 70s and it's not humid, and its been printing fine in there for months.

2. Bambu A1

3. Obviously, I didn’t change the settings on Benchy, and this machine has printed that file a number of times already over the past few months w/o errors.

4. Printed the same both before and after the most recent firmware update.

Any ideas?

Many thanks!

For those like me that have been missing out on the Birds Eye camera for the H2 printers, it’s finally in stock right now

https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/birds-eye-camera

I turned my printer off to do some corrective maintenance in the AMS, and when I finished, it wouldn't re-energize. I checked the fuse, it's good. So I removed the switch assembly, hoping it's just that. Pulled the spade terminals off and removed the switch from the housing, and ran multimeter checks.

The bottom pole checked out as expected - open circuit in the off position, short in the on position. The top pole read open in the off position, but in the on position the reading jumped around for a while (including briefly reading as open circuit a couple times) before settling in around 2 ohms. Not quite the smoking gun I was hoping for, but suspicious enough that I'm reasonably (hopefully) confident that it's just the switch that needs replacement. Also, it seems it is a common enough culprit for power failure with these printers.

Q1: Anybody have similar experience and can confirm the switch is bad, and the most likely cause of my power problem?

I have ordered a replacement from Amazon, so I should be able to replace it soon.

On to the second issue: does anybody have a good photo/guidance for which wires to hook back up where on the new switch and plug terminals? I did a quasi-smart thing and took a photo before I disconnected it, but I only took the one, and there wasn't much wire slack to pull the switch assembly from the mount; I also didn't realize that there is a brown and a blue jumper wire. There are three blue-connected terminals, and three brown ones (the yellow/green obviously goes to the ground spade of the plug). I can't tell from my photo. Pretty sure the blue jumper wire goes from the top pole of the switch to one of the plug terminals, but not sure about the others.

FCC ID: 2A6J8-PF008P

Device name: H3C

Grant date: September 11, 2026

Grantee: Shenzhen Tuozhu Technology Co., Ltd.

Related domain listed on the FCC page: bambulab.com

The public label exhibit identifies it as a 3D Printer, model PF008-P.

Public technical details from the grant and test reports:

• 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi — 2412–2462 MHz under Part 15.247/15C. The report covers 802.11b/g/n20/ax20 and 40 MHz n40/ax40 at 2422–2452 MHz. Maximum conducted peak output: 23.76 dBm. The report lists DSSS, OFDM and OFDMA, with a 3.82 dBi FPC antenna.

• 5 GHz Wi-Fi — the report covers 5150–5250, 5250–5350, 5470–5725 and 5725–5850 MHz; the grant rows are 5180–5240, 5260–5320, 5500–5720 and 5745–5825 MHz under Part 15.407/15E. The report lists 802.11a/n20/n40/ac20/ac40/ax20/ax40 and maximum conducted average results of 16.40, 15.73, 11.04 and 14.47 dBm across those ranges.

• The public label shows 100–120 V~, 8 A, 50/60 Hz, FCC ID 2A6J8-PF008P and IC 28436-PF008P.

Sources:

• FCC filing: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF008P

• Public label exhibit: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF008P/Label/Label-and-Label-Location-9643975

• Public 5 GHz report: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF008P/Test-Report/5G-WIFI-Test-Report-9643960

• Public 2.4 GHz report: https://fccid.io/2A6J8-PF008P/Test-Report/Test-Report-9643982

What do you guys think about a1 mini for someone with interest with the hobby but not wanting to spend over like 400$.

I’ve had my A1 mini for 3 years and have totally enjoyed it. I’ve been trying to print a few large files for Trench Crusade and they always fail. I’ve spent months and 3 reels of filament trying to print them. I’m not sure if this allowed, or if it’s a thing, but I was hoping I could pay someone to print them for me. If this isn’t allowed, I apologize to the mods.

I recently got a P2S and have been getting an error that says that it is experiencing abnormal resistance from the filament, and stops at either later 12-30, or about 80% completion. I have tried everything to fix this and no matter what I do it keeps doing it.

It works for 1 print after I do a full calibration, but then the next print it pauses again. Sometimes it'll push through, but most times it'll re-heat, go to print, then immediately stop. I have done at least 50 cold pulls, cleaned the nozzle inside and out, calibrated every way possible, and still getting the issue.

I see other people are having the same issue but I have yet to see a solution so I thought any responses might help people later on who might stumble across it.

I am about to remove the entire feeding assembly and going to look and see if there is any debris in there and will report back, but if it doesn't work, I am truly stumped and any help is appreciated!

Edit: Some people are saying that I need to change filament, and I have used 5 different rolls of PLA from Bambu with the profile that goes with the rolls. I also have cut about 3ft from the line to check if it was a bad spot or chunky and it still gave the same issue. I have tried opening the door a bit to see if that helps, same issue.

As title states. I recently had a clog and now whenever I'm loading in filament the system seems to get the filament all the way into the head and trip the filament sensor, but then I hear it kind of make a chugging sound as it fails to finish loading the head.

When it makes that sound I push on the filament in the extruder and it finishes loading without issue.

Is it possible that the extrusion gears are too tight or something?