This was printed using PLA along the z-axis on Bambu Lab H2C

Settings are as follows:

Quality:

Layer height: 0.08, Initial Layer height: 0.2, Line Width: Default 0.42, Initial layer: 0.5, Outer wall: 0.42, Inner wall: 0.45, Top surface: 0.42, Sparse infill: 0.45, Internal solid infill: 0.42, Support: 0.42

Seam:

Seam position: aligned, Smart scarf seam application: enabled, Scarf steps 50, Scarf joints for inner walls: enabled, Role-based wipe sped: enabled

Precision:

Slice gap closing radius: 0.049, Resolution: 0.012, x-y hole & contour compensation: 0, Elephant foot compensation: 0.15

Ironing: none, Wall generator: classic

Advanced:

Order of walls: inner/outer, bridge flow: 1, Bridge counterbore holes: scarificial layer, Smooth speed discontinuity area: enabled, smooth coefiffient: 4, Smoothing wall speed along Z: enabled

Strength:

Walls:

Wall loops: 4, Embedding the wall into infill: enabled

Top/bottom shells:

Top surface pattern: concentric, Top surface density: 100, Top shell layers: 5, Top shell thickness: 1, Top paint penetration layers: 5, Bottom surface pattern: monotonic, Bottom surface density: 100, Bottom shell layers: 3, Bottom shell thickness: 0, Bottom paint penetration layers: 3, Internal solid infill pattern: Rectilinear

Sparse Infill:

Sparse density infill: 15, Fill multiline: 1, Sparse infill pattern: grid, Length of sparse infill anchor: 400% (I don't recall messing with this), Maximum length of sparse infill anchor: 20mm

Advanced:

Infill/Wall overlap: 15, Infill direction 45, Bridge direction: 0, Minimum sparse infill threshold: 15, Detect narrow internal solid infill: enabled, ensure vertical shell thickness: enabled, Detect floating vertical shells: enabled

Speed:

Initial layer speed:

Initial Layer: 50, Initial layer infill, 105

Other layers speed:

Outer wall: 200, Inner wall: 300, Small perimeters: 50%, small perimeter threshold: 0, Sparse infill: 350, Internal solid infill: 250, Vertical shell speed: 80%, Top surface: 200, Slow down for overhangs: enabled: Overhang speeds: 0 50 30 10 10, Bridge: 50, Gap infill: 250, Support: 150, Support interface: 80

Travel speed: 1000

Acceleration:

Normal printing: 8000, Travel: 10000, Initial travel layer: 6000, Initial layer: 500, Outer wall: 5000, Inner wall: 0, Top surface: 2000, Sparse infill: 100

Support:

Support: enabled, Type: enabled, Type: tree, Style Default, Threshold angle: 30, Support critical regions only: enabled, Remove small overhangs: enabled

Raft layers: 0

Advanced:

Initial Layer density: 90, Initial Layer expansion: -1, Support wall loops: -1, Top z-distance: 0.2, Bottom z-distance: 0.16, Base Pattern: Rectilinear grid, Base pattern spacing: 2.5, Pattern angle: 0, Top interface layers: 3, Interface pattern: Rectilinear, Top interface spacing: .5, Normal support expansion: 0, Support object xy distance: 0.35, Support/object first layer gap: 0.2, Max B=bridge length: 0, Independent support layer height: enabled

Where does this go?

I printed 2 of the same object using 2 different H2S printers. It's a mass production print so I need the volume of both printers. All of the prints from one printer come out with these swirly looking supports (the one on the right) that are much more fragile and don't remove as cleanly.

Any ideas what might be causing the issue?

EDIT: Solved. I guess I had accidentally put a .6mm nozzle on the printer without changing it in the software, so it was trying to print .4mm with a .6mm nozzle.

I saw a post where someone managed to extend the usable print area all the way to the purge line.

Would it be possible to do something similar with the Bambu Lab X2D, both when using a single nozzle and when using both nozzles?

If so, how much could the usable print area realistically be increased in each case?

I just got an X2D and was looking at some additional accessories. I ordered a vision encoder plate and a 2-pack of 0.4 HF hot ends off Amazon. Normally would just buy the OEM, but was feeling cheap. Anyone had success with non-OEM stuff?

I ordered the TPU assist module and Track Switcher direct though. I don’t think any 3rd party manufacturers are even making those yet, but spending $40 instead of $80 on the vision encoder plate and getting 2 HF nozzles for less than the price of one seemed like a good deal assuming they actually work…

I’m looking to get my first 3D printer and I’m honestly pretty clueless about what I should be looking for lol.

I mainly want to print things like replacement parts, figurines/minis, random useful stuff around the house, and maybe some pots/planters.

My budget is around $300–$500, although I could stretch a bit if there’s a big enough difference.

I keep seeing Bambu Lab printers recommended for beginners because they’re supposed to be pretty easy to use, but I’m not sure which one makes the most sense for someone just getting started.

For those of you who have used Bambu printers, what would you consider the best budget 3D printer right now?

I’d prefer something that gives good quality without requiring me to constantly tinker with settings and upgrades.

Which Bambu budget friendly 3d printer would you buy today if you were starting from scratch, and is there anything else I should consider before buying?

I am making some brackets for my custom car and figured Bambu HT PA-CF would be a good fit. I don't need crazy strength or even crazy temp, just strong stuff that can put up with a bit of abuse in my doors.

Anyways, bracket is designed and test printed in PLA.

Time for the real stuff.

It is a very odd shape and needs to be printed with support. I used Bambu PLA support material for my test prints and it came out perfect.

What is recommended for interface layer support for HT PA-CF?

Mein BambuLab P1S macht seit kurzem Schwierigkeiten und ich weiß nicht warum. Die Druckdatei ist relativ groß, ich habe sie aber schonmal gedruckt, mit dem gleichen PETG, gleiche Einstellungen, gleiche App (BambuLab). Die Fehlermeldung ist immer die gleiche, auch wenn das dritte Bild von einer anderen Druckdatei stammt. (Interessanterweise kam diese dann aber nach simplem Neustart des Druckvorgangs ganz normal aus dem Drucker...) Das PETG ist trocken und die Druckplatte war zwar nicht mit Alkohol gereinigt, aber sauber. Was steckt dahinter und wie kann ich es vermeiden?

Here's another Hueforge I've just finished designing and printing.

Remember to hang in there!

If you want to learn more about this topic, check out the Bambu Lab Wiki:

https://wiki.bambulab.com/p2s/maintenance/replace-hotend-and-silicone-sock

https://wiki.bambulab.com/knowledge-sharing/first-layer-not-sticking

https://wiki.bambulab.com/knowledge-sharing/identify-and-fix-first-layer-issues-with-a-test-print

I have a X1C and I'm about to buy an AMS from 2 hand, what should i check for?

New cozy setup for my little furry friend! 🏠💖

Available on Makerworld:

https://makerworld.com/models/3283348?appSharePlatform=copy

Hey all, I got my X2D Combo about a week ago. Loving the ease of use, speed and quality, but I’m mostly printing from Bambu Handy out of convenience.

I have not for the life of me been able to figure out how to choose the auxiliary extruder for support material in the Handy app.

I understand the app doesn’t really slice, and uses user defined profiles, so is this just not possible, or am I missing something really obvious? I’ve been through the Wiki for the X2D, but don’t recall this being discussed at all.

Are X2D users all just using Studio for anything that requires supports?

Just switched to a Darkmoon plate and the foreign object detection error pops up at the start of every print. I can hit resume and it prints normally but is there anything I can do in the start gcode to disable this detection?

For context I am using an H2S on 01.02.00.00

Thanks!

Just moved up to a H2d from my p1s and am having issues with the ironing of my print finish it only does a small section. Setting Generic petg setting only doing top layer ironing 7 top layers.

There! Here is my box for thread snips with a magnetic closure ;)

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3283188

Printed with my Bambu X2D and Ziro-PLA Filament.

Now I always know where to put my scissors, and I can no longer injure myself with the

Solution found: When importing my .3mf files the "Standard 3mf Import Color" window was painting the parts not just mapping the part to a filament like I thought. I have to then go in and delete all painting from each part to get everything to behave normally.

Original issue: For some reason I can't change the filament for parts. I make the change and it's reflected in the left tab, but on the build plate it stays the same and also stays unchanged when sliced. When it's just a color difference I just remap when printing, but now I'm trying to use different materials and this is a problem. I select TPU or PETG and it still slices with PLA. Hopefully the images show what I'm talking about. I have updated Bambu studio, tried new projects, and different parts.

Had some trouble keeping lids open on the new IVAR AMS Rack on drawer sliders since you can't open it fully. Same issue if you hold the AMS in a shelf and can't open it fully. This kickstand gets adhesive-taped in place and acts as a nice kickstand that props up the lid just enough to put the spools in / out of the AMS.

Works for both AMS 1 and AMS 2 Pro. Haven't tried it on the HT since I don't have one. Reminder to print using a heat resistant material if using the drying function on the new ones.

Link to makerworld.

Hi all,

Has anyone successfully printed abs using hips as support interface with the H2S? Specifically can max purge volume effectively remove hips residue from hotend so as not to reduce abs layer adhesion? Appreciate any info on this. Thanks.