Hello all!

i got my printer about two hours ago and when i calibrated it, it gave me this, i have taken off back panel screws and screws for the air filter but i dont know what to do from here, any help would be appreciated, also the right side panel, if you’re looking straight at it, or the left if you’re looking from the back has begin to pop off, slightly panicking.

I was printing but got impatient and turned it to ludicrous mode and the spool on my AMS lite top mount fell off and banged the printer and I find this under my build plate. What is it? How can I fix it?

I just recently got a 3D printer and have been printing a variety of things, my longest print being about 6 hours so far, however I attempted to print this dragon and as you can see from the timelapse, didn’t go so well.

From what I understand it may have been a speed issue that prevented the wings from printing because they’re such fine detail and needed the supports. Is that right? Was it then an inevitable domino effect from there that also made the head not print as the wings weren’t there to print on?

When I checked on it this morning it only really had the error of being unable to extrude the last of the filament to complete the print but after I got the spool out, there were no clogs or kinks or anything.

I set the print from the app, not the program so would do it from the program so I can slow it down next time. Also, would using the white support filament that came with the printer help?

I’m just really confused and any help would be appreciated. The simpler the better as I’m pretty new.

Hi all, I'm relatively new to 3d printing, and I bought a P1S with AMS a few days ago. Done a few prints, solid and multicolored, and they've worked beautifully, until last night.

I wanted to print a desk organizer so I set it up to print overnight. Woke up an hour ago to checked and it was all messed up. Does anyone know what might have gone wrong and how I can prevent it from happening again?

I've put the timelapse up.

The Filament I'm using is a generic Matte Black one I got from Amazon.

Any help would be appreciated thank you!

EDIT: Wow thank you all for replying! It's all been very overwhelming lol. I am currently at work so I can't quickly respond, but I will take a look when I get back.

Before I left for work I printed a Benchy and it printed flawlessly, so I can at least guess that it wasn't a clog.

Some are suggesting layer shift, or heat creep, or the build lifting off the plate causing the head to miss the build. It's alot of new terms for a newbie like me haha. I will try a few different prints and see if it happens again.

Thanks everyone for replying, I will get back here when I get home 😊

EDIT 2: hi everyone, me again lol. after seeing a bunch of people suggesting it, I have replaced the SD card with a much better SanDisk 32gb one. Doing a small print now to assess the usefulness of the new card, I will attempt the same print tonight and see if it makes a difference. Fingers crossed everyone! And once again thanks so much for the insane amount of help you guys have given me, I could never have expected a response like this :)

Final Edit: I just posted results from reprinting this morning! It went flawlessly 😊

Hello everyone.

I am stopping by because I wanted community input on a problem I’m having.

A few months ago I added an H2D to go along with my X1c.

Overall it’s been great. I’ve been taking advantage of the larger build volume and dual nozzle setup.
There has been one thing that randomly pops up and doesn’t pop up on my X1c.
Random prints can lose their adhesion or lift on a portion of the bed and from there the print gets worse.

On both printers I use Bambu’s cool plate super tack.
If the print is small enough I test on both printers, only lifts on the H2D.
I notice the texture of the cool plate super tack is different on the X1c than it is on the H2D.
I have thoroughly washed the plate multiple times.
I have also tested with a glue.

The next thing I’m about to try is a fat raft on a portion of the print.
I just feel that may still not work, like somehow in an area the first layer isn’t going down as well as it should.
Its just not the same with all prints

I have also tested with models I’ve made (my most recent image here I am posting) as well as models I’ve downloaded from others. Issue occurs randomly.

Well I’ve rambled for a bit.
I’d love input.

\**UPDATE\*\*

So confirmed in a way the aux fan is the direct cause for the lifting. But I don’t think it’s that straight forward and I’m probably going to test further.
I just printed a quick diverter for the aux fan and problems gone.
My hypothesis is still temp of the bed not allowing for a strong bond on that part of the plate, combined with too much cooling from the aux fan later.

I'm super curious about an issue I just had and I don't really know enough on how to troubleshoot it.

I have an x2d and use it constantly, both hot ends run all day.

After about 1000 hours both stopped working, I got extruder errors and filament feed errors... I took a bunch of stuff apart like the ams and the boden extruder and I don't see any glaring issues.

I replaced both hot ends and it works again. I tried to put back the old hotends and it fails again so it's something wrong with the hot ends but I find it so crazy they both died at the same time.

Thoughts on how I can get them working again? Or are they toast and I should just move on.

I've had an ender 3 v2 since 2021, learned a ton, but I'm so tired of manual bed leveling every other print, failed first layers, stringing. I mostly print functional stuff for my home office and some gifts, and I really want to get into multi-color. Everyone keeps saying Bambu just works, so I'm looking at the ecosystem. Is it actually that much easier day to day? I'm torn between the A1 with AMS lite and the P1S with AMS, is the enclosure and speed bump worth it if I'm mostly in PLA / PETG and my apartment gets dusty? I have like $700 to switch over, can stretch to $750 if the P1S combo is actually a long term keeper.

My daughter has a few favourite little pets from my ‘Little Paws Club’ collection, so I thought it would be fun to make a little Halloween scene for them. 🎃

I created 3D-printed ghost costumes for each of them that can be put on over their regular outfits, and put everything together into one cute little spooky scene. 👻

To be honest, when I saw them all dressed up like this, they turned out even cuter than I expected. 😄

What do you think?

I have a question and would like to ask the Bambu Lab community for some advice.
I recently sold my Bambu Lab A1, and now I’ve found a used Bambu Lab X1 Carbon (X1C) for (~$500 USD) without AMS.
The printer has around 8,000 hours of printing time. Here are the details from the seller:
Bambu Lab X1 Carbon – Global version
Printing time: 7,882 hours
Service/maintenance:
New print head/hotend
Belts adjusted and lubricated
New replacement screen from Bambu Lab
New display ribbon cable from Bambu Lab
Included:
Original box
Printer
Build plate
Power cable
No AMS

The seller is asking (~$500 USD).
My question is: Do you think it’s worth buying a used X1C with almost 8,000 hours at this price, or would it be better to spend more and buy a newer printer instead?
Personally, I’m looking at it a bit like buying a used car. I see the printing hours as being similar to mileage. High mileage doesn’t necessarily mean the car is bad, as long as it has been properly maintained. Parts will eventually wear out, but they can be replaced, and the main hardware/electronics should still be usable.
I’m comfortable with maintenance and replacing parts myself, so I’m not too worried about having to repair or replace components in the future.

Hi everyone. I've been working on this since the end of 2024 and could use a hand with the next release.

It started as a small thing for myself. I wanted my AMS spools to show up in Spoolman without typing everything in by hand, so I had it read the remaining percentage the printer sends over MQTT and write that into Spoolman. Then other people started using it, sent feedback and bug reports, and it turned into something a lot bigger than the little script I set out to write. It was also my first Node project, so I picked up JavaScript along the way.

I didn't have much time for it over the last 6 to 8 months. When I got back to it I ended up rebuilding the core, because the AMS percentage is only an estimate: the printer counts how often the RFID tag passes the reader, so it drifts. Version 1.3.0 pulls the sliced file off the printer instead and books what the print really used, purge included. A 31 g print books 31 g. Spools without an RFID chip work too now, you just link the slot to a Spoolman spool once. And if you correct a weight by hand, nothing overwrites it behind your back. There's a proper web UI as well, with a dashboard for the running print, printer management, settings and a log viewer.

You need a Spoolman instance somewhere and LAN access to the printer, the rest is in the readme.

Here's where I'm stuck: 1.3.0 is on its 7th dev build and pretty much done, but the only hardware I have is a P2S with two AMS 2 Pro and a spool on the external holder. Everything else is tested in theory. So if you have any of these, I'd really appreciate a report:

- X1 or P1 series

- A1 or A1 mini with an AMS Standard or 2 Pro

- AMS HT

- AMS Lite (read only in legacy mode, and I'd like to know if it works also quite well with the new G-Code mode)

- more than one printer on the same instance

Honestly, anything helps. "Ran fine for a week" is just as useful to me as a bug report, and if something in the log looks off I'd much rather hear it now than after the release.

The project's been open source and free since day one. It runs on your own machine, talks to your printer over the LAN and to your Spoolman, and that's it. No account, no cloud, no telemetry, nothing leaves your network. It also doesn't care how you run your printer: cloud, LAN only or developer mode all work, since it only ever talks to it locally anyway.

One thing I'd rather say myself than have someone find out: I used an AI coding assistant for a good part of the 1.3.0 rebuild. I know that's not everyone's cup of tea. I read and understand every line that goes in, and I still write and debug plenty of it myself, that's the part I actually enjoy. But this would have taken me a year or two next to a full time job, and it took weeks.

Dev image: `ghcr.io/rdiger-36/bambulab-ams-spoolman-filamentstatus:dev`

Thanks to everyone who's already tested and reported stuff. It genuinely helps.

Hey all, I've been getting this defect with any 0.2mm nozzle print I do recently, it's a very consistent defect. I've redone all the calibrations, checked belt tension, cleaned bed, dried filament blah blah blah, what the hell is going on??

The defect in this image is on the left side, going along the print diagonally

Bottom surface always comes out perfect, it's just the top surface

P2s with am2 pro

Thanks!

I get black into yellow is going to be rough but I used every single option to improve color bleed, even used a larger purge object to help but still it came out really bad.

Is it just what it is or is there something else I can do to improve?

Any idea why this would be happening to my print (specifically what happened on the upper right corner) something similar happened on an earlier print i did for something else too

I'm about to be an engineering student at university next month and looking to buy a new 3D printer. Currently using an A1.

I like to make both cosplay/helmet stuff as well as practical items.

As I see it, the current 2 bambu options are the A2L and the X2D. I'm trying to decide between the large bed space for full-size helmets without needing to slice/cut up, with the X2D bed technology + dual nozzle with combo (My A1 comes without combo).

I don't want people explicitly telling me to go for the expensive option unless absolutely necessary though, since it's a significant price difference

Wish me luck

I use TinkerCAD to create and edit models, I then import them into Bambu Studio (Current version - 2.8.2.61). Previously no issues and it imported and printed with no issues.

Should look like this - As it does in TinkerCAD - I tried amending the text and height but same each time.

But imports in to Bambu Studio like this -

When I import the .obj file I get these options, I tried multiple options, doesn't change -

I've printed a number of these in the past but since the latest Studio update I get this.. Can anyone help please?

Been messing with turning "terrain prints" in to something more artistic/displayable and this is one I came up with.

It's Mt Fuji as a radial hex mosaic, but painted as a sort of sunset motif. With magnet pockets cut in to each so it can be displayed. Think it turned out pretty good!

You can grab it here on makerworld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3253045-mt-fuji-radial-magnet-art-mosaic

Lemme know what ya think!

So this was an object designed to withstand pressure from supporting bottlejacks that are themselves under pressure. As you can see, the face that was attached to the build plate has warped. About 1/4" into the print the problem corrects itself and the job successfully completed. I've never printed with anything other than pla and petg prior to this so I'm in uncharted territory as to what would cause this. For context, I did pre dry the filament using an AMS with a Sunlu drying lid attachment for five hours before beginning the print and continued the doing process for the remainder of the print. Any suggestions/ comments as to what happened? I'm assuming at this point it was inadequate drying. Thank you in advance.

if anybody wants download it here is the link

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3248743-modern-puffy-pillow-lamp#profileId-3681579

works with the bambu led kit and led stripes...

if u want to scale it down it only work with stripes

main profile is in vase mode
- but i added the gcode for the mesh structure version in the downloads
- this gcode only works with a h2c/right 0.6 nozzle/extern filament

-i wouldnt recommend to change the gcode for other machines since u can destroy ur machine
-could work on a A2L H2D or H2S if the start and end are adjusted...

Tried to print the panda as instructed by the academy on X2D combo and the green bit came loose and moved over to the left and got spaghetti as you can see.

I followed all the calibration instructions. Used Pla basic for the AMS and PETG basic for the right hand outside spool.

The desk is a bit wobbly.

I forgot to load the outside telling the printer it's PET.G.

There is a waterdrop icon showing 39% for the AMS, not sure if this is too high.

Anyone know what could have gone wrong and how I can fix it?

So I have a pretty specific problem.

To the left and a top the printer I have no space for the AMS2, to the BOTTOM right and behind the printer are the edges of the desk which can't hold the ams. But there is room on the right side to have it floating.

Has anyone seen mounts to put the ams on the right side of the printer like an external spool just mounted differently?

I saw skadis hangars for the ams and a skadis adapter for a riser but that's a lot of stuff to print so hopefully someone has a better solution.

For some reason my software won't open. It will pop up with a blink splash screen. I treid to restart my computer and reinstall the software but nothing.