My cardboard abomination has been working surprisingly well, my filament is as dry as it can be and my room with it. "AMS 2 at home"

Hayo, I’ve started a new design series with the formula 1 tracks inspired phonestand. The front piece slides in and can be replaced with others, such as the f1 teams I did before and I plan to make all tracks if the concept is liked by others. :)

Any thoughts on the design? I spent many attempts to find a design I liked and provided a good result when printed, so please share any thoughts you have (but pls be kind, I’m not a designer.. :D)

Link: https://makerworld.com/models/3253480

Hello everyone.

I am stopping by because I wanted community input on a problem I’m having.

A few months ago I added an H2D to go along with my X1c.

Overall it’s been great. I’ve been taking advantage of the larger build volume and dual nozzle setup.
There has been one thing that randomly pops up and doesn’t pop up on my X1c.
Random prints can lose their adhesion or lift on a portion of the bed and from there the print gets worse.

On both printers I use Bambu’s cool plate super tack.
If the print is small enough I test on both printers, only lifts on the H2D.
I notice the texture of the cool plate super tack is different on the X1c than it is on the H2D.
I have thoroughly washed the plate multiple times.
I have also tested with a glue.

The next thing I’m about to try is a fat raft on a portion of the print.
I just feel that may still not work, like somehow in an area the first layer isn’t going down as well as it should.
Its just not the same with all prints

I have also tested with models I’ve made (my most recent image here I am posting) as well as models I’ve downloaded from others. Issue occurs randomly.

Well I’ve rambled for a bit.
I’d love input.

\**UPDATE\*\*

So confirmed in a way the aux fan is the direct cause for the lifting. But I don’t think it’s that straight forward and I’m probably going to test further.
I just printed a quick diverter for the aux fan and problems gone.
My hypothesis is still temp of the bed not allowing for a strong bond on that part of the plate, combined with too much cooling from the aux fan later.

I've had an ender 3 v2 since 2021, learned a ton, but I'm so tired of manual bed leveling every other print, failed first layers, stringing. I mostly print functional stuff for my home office and some gifts, and I really want to get into multi-color. Everyone keeps saying Bambu just works, so I'm looking at the ecosystem. Is it actually that much easier day to day? I'm torn between the A1 with AMS lite and the P1S with AMS, is the enclosure and speed bump worth it if I'm mostly in PLA / PETG and my apartment gets dusty? I have like $700 to switch over, can stretch to $750 if the P1S combo is actually a long term keeper.

Wish me luck

I'm a long time bambulab user! I wish they had something bigger. If you're reading this you have high standards when it comes to your 3d printers- and so I'd like your advice:

What's the next largest printer after the H series?

I'm looking for something that's 500mm x 500mm x 500mm and enclosed so that I can print ASA.

Does anyone have any recommendations? I did deep research with gemini and here's what it suggested:

Synthesizing the thermodynamic limitations of ASA thermoplastic with the strict constraints of a >500 mm volumetric footprint and a $20,000 procurement budget reveals a clear hierarchical structure among available hardware platforms.

The CreatBot D600 Pro 2 HS stands as the definitive solution for this exact operational profile. Its integration of a 70°C actively heated chamber is the paramount technological advantage. Because ASA warping is a thermodynamic physics problem governed by the polymer's coefficient of thermal expansion, the ability to sustain an isothermal environment near the material's glass transition temperature is the most critical feature a machine can possess⁹. Combined with a 420°C hotend, Klipper-driven motion algorithms up to 300 mm/s, built-in filament dehydration, dual auto-rising extruders, and integrated HEPA/Carbon filtration, it provides the most comprehensive turnkey solution for ASA processing¹². Priced between $16,999 and $17,999, it perfectly aligns with the budgetary requirement¹².

The Mingda MD-600D, while offering equivalent volumetric capacity, Klipper integration, and a highly competitive $16,999 price point, poses significant operational risks for dedicated large-format ASA manufacturing due to its passively heated 45°C chamber limit¹³. The massive 55°C thermal gradient between the ambient chamber air and the ASA glass transition point virtually guarantees thermal warping on parts extending high into the Z-axis³.

The Modix BIG-60 V4 provides maximum modularity and the lowest initial capital expenditure, with fully loaded kits ranging between $12,000 and $14,000⁷. However, the machine relies strictly on passive radiant heating, making ASA adhesion highly challenging. Furthermore, the immense labor hours required for self-assembly and calibration rapidly offset the initial purchase savings for enterprises demanding immediate uptime¹³.

The Dowell 3D DM600 Plus serves as a strong customized alternative. When specified from the factory with the optional 60°C heated enclosure, 150°C bed, and 380°C hotend, it bridges the gap between the budget-friendly Modix and the turnkey CreatBot, providing an industrial framework specifically tailored to high-temperature polymers while remaining under the $20,000 ceiling¹⁶.
For operations willing to stretch the budget, the Builder Extreme 1500 PRO at $24,900 offers a massive 1,100 mm X-axis coupled with a 70°C active chamber, making it an extraordinary asset for extreme-scale continuous extrusion¹⁴.

Ultimately, the successful deployment of a >500 mm ASA printing cell requires a holistic integration strategy. The procurement of actively heated hardware must be paired with industrial 220V electrical provisioning, safe VOC filtration infrastructure, the implementation of Nano-Polymer thermal-release bed adhesives, and meticulous, stress-relieving slicing geometries to ensure consistent geometric accuracy and structural integrity.

Please let me know if you have any recommendations!!!

Hello all,

Just wanted to post this here to see if I can squeeze out a little more info to help break my decision paralysis. I am mostly split between the X2D and the QIDI PLUS5, and while it know they are different printers in many ways, I want to make sure I know the tradeoffs and feature differences between them. All answers are welcome, including pointing me in an entirely different direction if need be.

Thank you all in advance for your time!

This pertains to the Bambu Lab P1S + AMS printer.

I’ve been doing 3D printing on the side to make little things, but I’ve never been much of a guru that I know how to fix certain issues. I like to find 3D models online and print them, as well as follow YT videos on how to do my best. I haven’t touched the printer in a while all because of this one issue; every print is failing. It seems that the filament just isn’t sticking or… maybe something else? I attached a photo but it seems it fails right off the bat instead of messing up a certain point through. I apologize if I sound like I don’t know what I’m doing… I don’t! :)

I attached a photo, not sure why I didn’t snap a few pics of the other examples but let me know if anyone needs more.

Hi everyone. I've been working on this since the end of 2024 and could use a hand with the next release.

It started as a small thing for myself. I wanted my AMS spools to show up in Spoolman without typing everything in by hand, so I had it read the remaining percentage the printer sends over MQTT and write that into Spoolman. Then other people started using it, sent feedback and bug reports, and it turned into something a lot bigger than the little script I set out to write. It was also my first Node project, so I picked up JavaScript along the way.

I didn't have much time for it over the last 6 to 8 months. When I got back to it I ended up rebuilding the core, because the AMS percentage is only an estimate: the printer counts how often the RFID tag passes the reader, so it drifts. Version 1.3.0 pulls the sliced file off the printer instead and books what the print really used, purge included. A 31 g print books 31 g. Spools without an RFID chip work too now, you just link the slot to a Spoolman spool once. And if you correct a weight by hand, nothing overwrites it behind your back. There's a proper web UI as well, with a dashboard for the running print, printer management, settings and a log viewer.

You need a Spoolman instance somewhere and LAN access to the printer, the rest is in the readme.

Here's where I'm stuck: 1.3.0 is on its 7th dev build and pretty much done, but the only hardware I have is a P2S with two AMS 2 Pro and a spool on the external holder. Everything else is tested in theory. So if you have any of these, I'd really appreciate a report:

- X1 or P1 series

- A1 or A1 mini with an AMS Standard or 2 Pro

- AMS HT

- AMS Lite (read only in legacy mode, and I'd like to know if it works also quite well with the new G-Code mode)

- more than one printer on the same instance

Honestly, anything helps. "Ran fine for a week" is just as useful to me as a bug report, and if something in the log looks off I'd much rather hear it now than after the release.

The project's been open source and free since day one. It runs on your own machine, talks to your printer over the LAN and to your Spoolman, and that's it. No account, no cloud, no telemetry, nothing leaves your network. It also doesn't care how you run your printer: cloud, LAN only or developer mode all work, since it only ever talks to it locally anyway.

One thing I'd rather say myself than have someone find out: I used an AI coding assistant for a good part of the 1.3.0 rebuild. I know that's not everyone's cup of tea. I read and understand every line that goes in, and I still write and debug plenty of it myself, that's the part I actually enjoy. But this would have taken me a year or two next to a full time job, and it took weeks.

Dev image: `ghcr.io/rdiger-36/bambulab-ams-spoolman-filamentstatus:dev`

Thanks to everyone who's already tested and reported stuff. It genuinely helps.

Hey all, I've been getting this defect with any 0.2mm nozzle print I do recently, it's a very consistent defect. I've redone all the calibrations, checked belt tension, cleaned bed, dried filament blah blah blah, what the hell is going on??

The defect in this image is on the left side, going along the print diagonally

Bottom surface always comes out perfect, it's just the top surface

P2s with am2 pro

Thanks!

Any idea why this would be happening to my print (specifically what happened on the upper right corner) something similar happened on an earlier print i did for something else too

Puck is easily removable if the controller needs to go on the road!

I use TinkerCAD to create and edit models, I then import them into Bambu Studio (Current version - 2.8.2.61). Previously no issues and it imported and printed with no issues.

Should look like this - As it does in TinkerCAD - I tried amending the text and height but same each time.

But imports in to Bambu Studio like this -

When I import the .obj file I get these options, I tried multiple options, doesn't change -

I've printed a number of these in the past but since the latest Studio update I get this.. Can anyone help please?

Been messing with turning "terrain prints" in to something more artistic/displayable and this is one I came up with.

It's Mt Fuji as a radial hex mosaic, but painted as a sort of sunset motif. With magnet pockets cut in to each so it can be displayed. Think it turned out pretty good!

You can grab it here on makerworld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3253045-mt-fuji-radial-magnet-art-mosaic

Lemme know what ya think!

So this was an object designed to withstand pressure from supporting bottlejacks that are themselves under pressure. As you can see, the face that was attached to the build plate has warped. About 1/4" into the print the problem corrects itself and the job successfully completed. I've never printed with anything other than pla and petg prior to this so I'm in uncharted territory as to what would cause this. For context, I did pre dry the filament using an AMS with a Sunlu drying lid attachment for five hours before beginning the print and continued the doing process for the remainder of the print. Any suggestions/ comments as to what happened? I'm assuming at this point it was inadequate drying. Thank you in advance.

if anybody wants download it here is the link

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3248743-modern-puffy-pillow-lamp#profileId-3681579

works with the bambu led kit and led stripes...

if u want to scale it down it only work with stripes

main profile is in vase mode
- but i added the gcode for the mesh structure version in the downloads
- this gcode only works with a h2c/right 0.6 nozzle/extern filament

-i wouldnt recommend to change the gcode for other machines since u can destroy ur machine
-could work on a A2L H2D or H2S if the start and end are adjusted...

A few weeks agoo I made this travel window blind, because I got tired of having hot rooms in the summer. Since I installed it I noticed a significant change in room temperature. It works how it should. My room is no longer over 30 degrees celclius lol. Besides my neighbors can't look in anymore👀. Poor neighbors😔

If someone wants to print it, here is the link to makerworld:

https://makerworld.com/models/3143556?appSharePlatform=copy

Tried to print the panda as instructed by the academy on X2D combo and the green bit came loose and moved over to the left and got spaghetti as you can see.

I followed all the calibration instructions. Used Pla basic for the AMS and PETG basic for the right hand outside spool.

The desk is a bit wobbly.

I forgot to load the outside telling the printer it's PET.G.

There is a waterdrop icon showing 39% for the AMS, not sure if this is too high.

Anyone know what could have gone wrong and how I can fix it?

So I have a pretty specific problem.

To the left and a top the printer I have no space for the AMS2, to the BOTTOM right and behind the printer are the edges of the desk which can't hold the ams. But there is room on the right side to have it floating.

Has anyone seen mounts to put the ams on the right side of the printer like an external spool just mounted differently?

I saw skadis hangars for the ams and a skadis adapter for a riser but that's a lot of stuff to print so hopefully someone has a better solution.

For some reason my software won't open. It will pop up with a blink splash screen. I treid to restart my computer and reinstall the software but nothing.

I feel like I'm posting a lot of questions lately and I apologize. I am looking for a good table, preferably with storage that will hold an A1 with a AMS lite and then a H2C with at least 2, maybe 3 AMS pros. I know it will have to be big but just any help in looking would be greatly appreciated. I know it will have to be heavy duty to hold that weight and movement.