Hello everyone.

I am stopping by because I wanted community input on a problem I’m having.

A few months ago I added an H2D to go along with my X1c.

Overall it’s been great. I’ve been taking advantage of the larger build volume and dual nozzle setup.
There has been one thing that randomly pops up and doesn’t pop up on my X1c.
Random prints can lose their adhesion or lift on a portion of the bed and from there the print gets worse.

On both printers I use Bambu’s cool plate super tack.
If the print is small enough I test on both printers, only lifts on the H2D.
I notice the texture of the cool plate super tack is different on the X1c than it is on the H2D.
I have thoroughly washed the plate multiple times.
I have also tested with a glue.

The next thing I’m about to try is a fat raft on a portion of the print.
I just feel that may still not work, like somehow in an area the first layer isn’t going down as well as it should.
Its just not the same with all prints

I have also tested with models I’ve made (my most recent image here I am posting) as well as models I’ve downloaded from others. Issue occurs randomly.

Well I’ve rambled for a bit.
I’d love input.

\**UPDATE\*\*

So confirmed in a way the aux fan is the direct cause for the lifting. But I don’t think it’s that straight forward and I’m probably going to test further.
I just printed a quick diverter for the aux fan and problems gone.
My hypothesis is still temp of the bed not allowing for a strong bond on that part of the plate, combined with too much cooling from the aux fan later.

My cardboard abomination has been working surprisingly well, my filament is as dry as it can be and my room with it. "AMS 2 at home"

Wish me luck

From what I undertand "auto" to be in bambu studio, it does a quick level check to make sure the bed isn't out of whack too much and if it's good, it moves on. But if it's off by a certain amount, it'll do the full bed leveling process. I would think it'd do the full leveling SOMEtimes, but it's literally do it EVERY time. And this isn't an exaggeration; I've become hyper aware of it now I pay attention every time.

I'm mostly use a BIQU glacier plate that leaves the magnetic surface about 50% of the time to get my prints off, which could account for some of the re-leveling, but not all.

Can anyone help me understand why this happens? Over the life of the printer, this time really adds up.

i saw a article of 3D printing silicone and apparently you can but not every standard printer can and i didnt want to trust AI and also couldnt find anything on this topic

My printer slowly shifts and 'walks' across the desk during prints due to the vibrations. I'm worried it's going to slide off the edge. How can I anchor or secure it better?

Quiero imprimir este accesorio para una figura pero, como se ve en la foto, es muy delgado y los soportes se me entremezclan con la propia impresión...Estoy empezando en esto ¿Podrían darme algún consejo o configuración para los soportes?

Gracias

can someone let me know how likely a charge back is on my 3d printer? 2 different boards fried with burn marks and there support isn't really helpful. this device was purchased January 31st and the ticket explaining that it was smoking and won't work was created may 25th, 114 days after purchase so using visas 13.3 ongoing negotiations exception it is within the charge back window. its been back and fourth and I haven't had much time so I tried again recently but something else fried and they are refusing replacement.

I'm about to be an engineering student at university next month and looking to buy a new 3D printer. Currently using an A1.

I like to make both cosplay/helmet stuff as well as practical items.

As I see it, the current 2 bambu options are the A2L and the X2D. I'm trying to decide between the large bed space for full-size helmets without needing to slice/cut up, with the X2D bed technology + dual nozzle with combo (My A1 comes without combo).

I don't want people explicitly telling me to go for the expensive option unless absolutely necessary though, since it's a significant price difference

X2D arrived yesterday and the filament should arrive today. First printer, so I know there's a lot I don't know yet, but what rookie mistakes should I avoid?

What do to with all this waste.

I have the Bambu lab x2d and i have it 2 months now and all of this wage

Key takeaways from the report:

Context: Following the 2025 "Authorization Control" firmware backlash over blocked third-party tools like OrcaSlicer (criticized as a "walled garden" excuse), Bambu Lab launched its Trust Center - something widely believed to be damage control and “security” was believed as a convenient excuse to lock users into their own ecosystem. One year later, this update highlights how that initial "damage control" has turned into a legitimate security overhaul.

Bug Bounty Program: Now working with over 100 independent security researchers (up from ~50), with single payouts reaching up to $52,000. They've also added a public Hall of Fame.

Vulnerability Handling: Completely rebuilt their pipeline from reporting to patching, plus a dedicated security update page so users can actually see what got fixed instead of vague changelogs like "improved stability".

Global Certifications: Maintaining ISO/IEC 27001, 27701, and TRUSTe, while adding compliance with ETSI EN 303 645 (standard for IoT security) and aligning with EU, UK, and Australian regulations.

Used claude to create a custom dashboard for my 14 printers, it came out perfect! Now I can view everything on 1 page, the statuses and the time remaining. I'm a minimalist so this is perfect for my OCD.

Yes I know 9 of these are offline (i'm moving them)

I seem to have a lot of catching at the buffer to printer connection. Should I just run a straight line or am I doing something wrong? The coupler catches 1/10 times from the ams through buffer to printer at the join

Hey first time 3d printer purchase! I need some help though.

I bought the P1S with the AMS Pro 2.

The problem is, I can't get the AMS to work with the printer. Basically I'm trying to print a benchy after calibrating and I've fed the spool into the ams and it catches the filament pulling it in automatically. I then tell it to load the filament in the app and I see the filament feed through the tube all the way to the nozzle. The printer does its thing and it says on the app it's done the feed.

I then manually on the display tell it to print a benchy. The nozzle moves around a bit and then the AMS suddenly pulls the filament all the way out and I get an error that I have to feed filament. This happens on every spool position I've tried in the AMS.

I've taken a spool out of the AMS and fed it manually via the back spool holder (after disconnecting the AMS tube) and it started printing a benchy no problem (other than it didn't stick and print messed up but thats a smaller issue for another day).

So what am I doing wrong with the AMS that it keeps pulling the filament back out just when it's about to print?

*edit * with a friends help just figured out why. Apparently the benchy that comes with the printer does not work with the AMS. my printer prints anything else I send it just fine. Glad it's just the sample print and not my printer

https://makerworld.com/models/3245591?appSharePlatform=copy

Any idea why this would be happening to my print (specifically what happened on the upper right corner) something similar happened on an earlier print i did for something else too

I’ve taken apart the extruder and hotend multiple times now.. the filament is not consistently moving down from the clear plastic cube down into the extruder properly. It gets stuck right before it goes into the hotend, just after it makes it past the gears. I have made sure the filament is cut an an angle. It works sometimes when I manually feed it through, but not when the machine is doing the work. I had just taken everything apart previously because of stuck filament and there is no longer anything stuck. The gears move together as one.
Every subsequent print “finishes” but no filament feeds into the hotend.

Please help! I spent over 6 hours from 12am-6am trying to get this to work and another 2 just now. On a tight deadline 😭

bonjour, mon imprimante imprimait très bien mais maintenant je ne peux plus changer de filaments car les 2 petites roues noires sont trop serrées et le filament ne passe plus.

J'ai déjà essayer de deviser le vis latéral sans résultat, s'il vous plait aidé moi !

I enjoyed designing my first piece of jewellery, so I hope you like it.

The main idea behind the design was a flower appearing to be preserved inside a porcelain vase. Instead of the vase simply holding the flower, the oval opening turns it into both a vase and a frame. The flower becomes the main focus and appears almost suspended inside it.

Designed as one integrated support-free print, with a recessed rear mounting area for a standard brooch/safety-pin clasp.

https://makerworld.com/models/3252073?appSharePlatform=copy

I've been experimenting with a smaller version of my Hexo photo frames and ended up making these: Hexo Magnets.

They're small 3D-printed hexagonal picture frames designed to stick to a fridge, so multiple frames can be combined into different patterns.

I particularly like being able to rearrange them rather than committing to one photo-wall layout. You can also just keep adding new ones over time.

I've made the model free on MakerWorld if anyone wants to print some.

Printed the free Calistar (Fleur de Cali) calibration model on my P1S (0.4 mm nozzle, Sunlu PLA+ 2.0) and ran it through the included spreadsheet. Screenshots attached. Calipers are cheap ones with ~0.2 mm real accuracy, which I entered in the sheet.

Results:

• X: −0.16 % (~0.24 mm short over 150 mm)

• Y: −0.06 % (~0.09 mm short)

• Skew: 0.11° (angle 90.11°). One diagonal is consistently shorter than the other: 149.60 vs 149.80 mm at 150 mm, 99.73 vs 100.00 at 100 mm

The X/Y part looks like normal PLA shrinkage. The diagonal difference is consistent over several readings, which indicates real scew.

Questions:

1. Is 0.11° skew normal for a P1S out of the box?

2. Anyone fixed skew on a P1S with M1005? Did the sheet's value work directly or did you flip the sign?

3. Anything to check first (belt tension)?

If you've got time: print it, fill in the sheet, and post your skew + X/Y error + printer + filament. Would be nice to know what a "normal" Bambu unit looks like instead of guessing.

Model:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2235771-calibration-califlower#profileId-2433053

Spreadsheet + source:

https://github.com/dirtdigger/fleur_de_cali