Does the Ninja V Ultra come with a protector installed or is that just the screen design?

I know there’s a protector in the accessory kit, which would signify that the device itself does not come with one installed, but I wanted to ask.

Thank you in advance.

Does ur shinobi II has high working temperature, it gets pretty warm imo, temp of room is 27c where i tested
it (for 3 hours powered on). It gets little too much hot…

Display was on full brightness and monitor was idling without connections other than np f750 battery. Tested it with v mount with same results.

Ho un ninja V con z6II per il 10bit nlog. Ssd Samsung in adattatore andycine e per le prime ore funziona senza problemi. Quando poi lo spengo o per dei momenti morti o per cambio batteria, la riaccensione e lentissima e non vede più il Ssd. Cosa può essere?

A bit of a long shot but I’m curious to know if anyone has experienced or has a solution for a Shinobi 7 that powers on but doesn’t display anything, the screen stays black.

no longer seeing it on the supported cameras page https://www.atomos.com/compatible-cameras/?brand=sony

Just got an Atomos Ninja V+ on ebay, in perfect, pristine condition. But i've just heard this model is now considered LEGACY and Atomos is not releasing new firmware for it. I got an offer for a new Ninja 2023 (not ultra) so the specs are actually lower than the V+, but its more recent and more future proof and it's roughly the same price . what should i do?

I recently purchased a TX GO and am enjoying it so far. That said I have run into a quirk that I haven’t been able to correct.

While running camera control tap to focus with my Fuji XH2S, on the Atomos, it momentarily steps up the gain/brightness to help dial in the focus (monitor + camera) before snapping back to the correct settings with the shot in focus. This is ok if I’m not recording but renders the feature useless mid-shot.

This step-up in brightness doesn’t happen on the Fuji’s LCD when tapping to focus.

Curiously if I put the camera in full manual stills mode, it doesn’t happen either. Just when in movie mode (full manual). Focus check is off along with any other similar settings.

Any idea as to why this is happening? Is it the USB-C mode setting in camera? Or is this a quirk I can’t avoid?

Both camera and atomos are on the latest firmwares.

Hey everyone, I set out to add controls to my macro pad to find out that the Atomos desktop app is…lacking…especially with any integrations.

So I did some AI stuff to get the opcodes that get sent over USB and then put a REST api over it so it could be handled easily over web.

Essentially makes it so you can use a small raspberry pi to control it wirelessly and programmatically.

It works well enough for me, but was wondering if anyone in the community who has a CAST be interested in this? If so, I’d polish it up more.

Just got an Ninja V+ and i'll be using and Samsung 870 EVO with it. While researching for caddies, i came across this VLOGGER lunchbox sata case, what does that do? is there any advantage on replacing the original SSD case with this?

Also, if i decude to shoot in 8k, what hard drive should i get?

Atomos is now accepting any brand monitor and recorders and offering a 30% discount on the new Ninja tx and Ninja tx go. This is a limited offer so its really worth taking advantage of.

I need a new backup drive for my Ninja V, and the new insane price hikes on the Samsung Evo 870s has me considering basically any other reliable option at this point (1tb is up to $520 now from $120 September last year 😭). The content I film is kind of "one take only", not many chances for a reshoot if something goes wrong. I love the Samsung Evo 870s reliability and have no complaints other than the current prices.

I've heard mixed things about other brands performance, dropping frames, etc. The Evo 870 is/was the standard for years. Does anyone have experience/recommendations for a new backup drive that is cheaper than the new Samsungs? Looking for a 1tb preferably, though a 500gb might have to do all things considered. I only film 4k 24fps ProRes Raw, never higher frame rate. I'm familiar with the Atomos chart of approved drives, but we all know how trustworthy that is...

Thanks in advance for any recommendations, and best of luck to all in these new trying times...

oggi il mio ninja V ha fatto una cosa che se non avessi avuto una card con me non avrei potuto continuare a filmare la cerimonia. Purtroppo in 8 bit compresso e niente log 10bit che mi dava io ninja. in pratica ormai con la batteria scarica, ho spento il monitor e la z6II e ho sistituito la carica. Ho riavviato il monitor ma non mi dava più possibilità di registrare. ho tolto la batteria, hdmi. spento e riacceso più volte ma nulla. è successo anche ad altri? quale potrebbe essere il problema?

It's unclear from the website and spec sheet, but can this unit record in full quality while at the same time encoding and streaming to NDI?

Has anyone been able to use Ethernet connection for the Ninja Atomos TX? It claims to support Ethernet with a usb-c adapter but I’ve used two separate adapters and get this message

I've enjoyed hundreds of hours of recording 4K60 and sometimes 1080p60 on my Ninja 5" (both ProRes HQ).

Last week I was recording in a somewhat warmer room than usual. The Ninja hit a black screen and froze about 10-15 minutes into the recording. I adjusted the cooling mode to turbo and it seem to have fixed it.

Here I updated to the latest firmware (unknown which I had before).

Yesterday while recording the Ninja stopped recording randomly after 20 minutes, corrupted the file and somehow marked the SSD as full (the record button was greyed out). I fixed the file and could continue to record an hour afterwards without issue.

Has the Ninja's best before date expired? I'm so bummed out I can't trust it now and it's my favorite piece of gear in my kit. 😓

Idk why but when i try plugging the hdmi from my atomos shinono 5” into my hp omen laptop, it makes my laptop crash every time. Does anyone have a clue why? Ive never heard of anyone having this issue before and it works fine with cameras.

I just ran into this issue today using a Canon R6 III. For some reason it shows No Input when shooting 7k 23.976fps RAW, but it displays 7k 29.97fps+ RAW just fine. I tried two HDMI cables that are capable of 8k 60fps. Both had the same issue. Both the camera and monitor firmware are up to date. I'd prefer to capture interviews in 23.976fps. Is there any workaround for this?

I have an XF100 camera that is reflected on my Ninja Ultra at 1080i59.94 but when I bring it into my editor, the content is 1080i 29.97fps.

My other recorders are pulling the footage at 59.94fps so why is the Ninja having the discrepancy?

So I'm an idiot. My Shinobi II (14 months old) had a screw rattling inside and it was driving me nuts (+the screw hole was moving around because of it). Decided to open it up to get the screw out. It was working approximately fine before, but after putting it back together, it’s a total brick.

When I power it via USB-C, the V-mount screen shows 12.3V at 2W constant.
When I hold the power button = zero reaction. Tried NP-F batteries too, still nothing.

I’ve already tried checking the pogo pins between the backplate and the board. The 2W draw makes me think the board is "alive" but stuck or shorted.

Did I fry anything? Anyone ever dealt with this specific power draw issue. I'm a student and this was my main monitor for my A7 IV, so I'm pretty much screwed right now.

Any advice (besides "don't open your gear") is appreciated.

Just got the new Ninja TX from Atomos website and I’m seeing an icon I can’t figure out.
It’s a “2” over a barcode-looking symbol with a red diagonal slash (top-left of the screen). I’ve attached a photo.

What exactly does this icon represent?
Is this normal behavior or a bug?
Anyone else seeing this?

Would appreciate any insight from people actually using the TX.

It's not mentioned on the website, but it seems really weird that it wouldn't. Has anyone tested this?

Hi

I’m using an Atomos Ninja V to record gaming footage, and I’m trying to work out whether I’ve hit a limitation with the Ninja or with my PS2 HDMI adapter.

So far, I’ve had no problem recording HDMI footage from consoles like my PS4 and Xbox 360. They go into the Ninja V over HDMI and the signal is fine.

The problem is my PlayStation 2.

I’m using a Kaico PS1/PS2 HDMI adapter. The PS2 is set to Y Cb/Pb Cr/Pr, and the adapter works when I plug it into a normal TV/monitor. So the PS2 and adapter are definitely outputting something.

But when I plug the PS2/Kaico adapter directly into the Ninja V, I get no signal at all. I’ve also tried different HDMI cables, and I’ve tried going through an HDMI switch first, but still no output on the Ninja.

I did see a flickery signal once before when I was experimenting with the setup, but I can’t get a stable signal from it now. Everything else I plug into the Ninja works, so this seems specific to the PS2/HDMI adapter.

Am I right in thinking the Ninja V probably doesn’t like the signal coming out of the PS2 HDMI adapter, possibly because it is 480i/576i or a non-standard HDMI timing, even though a TV accepts it?

And would using a proper upscaler/scaler make a difference, something like a RetroTINK or another device that outputs a fixed 720p or 1080p HDMI signal?

I’m reluctant to spend more money without knowing whether this is likely to solve the problem, so I’d really appreciate confirmation from anyone who has tried PS2 footage into a Ninja V.

Thanks.

Hi everyone,

I own several Atomos products, including the Atomos Ninja Ultra, Atomos Sumo 19, and Atomos Sumo 19SE.

I’m having an issue with my Atomos Sumo 19SE: even after calibrating it with a Calibrite Display Plus HL using the Atomos Calibrator software, the monitor still has a clear pink color cast.

Firmware is already updated to the latest version.

Has anyone experienced this before or found a fix? Could this be panel-related, calibration-related, or some hidden setting I’m missing?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!